118 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 10, mi. 
Sutton & Sons, Beading. —List of Disease-resisting Potatoes. 
Ormiston & Renwick, Melrose. —Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable 
Seeds. 
Strike and Hawkins, 62, High Street, Stockton-on-Tees. —Catalogue 
of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
Harrison it Sons, Leicester. —Price List of Seeds for the Garden and 
Farm. 
E. G-. Henderson & Son, Pine Apple Nursery, Edgware Eoad.— 
Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds ( Illustrated). 
Richard Dean, Ranelagh Road, Ealing, London. — Catalogues of 
Seeds, Plants, and Potatoes. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We eannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Address (J. M., Ireland). — If you write to Messrs. George Neighbour and 
Son, 127, High Holborn, London, you will obtain the information you require. 
Tinnea sethiopica (F. S.). —We do not know where you could purchase 
seed of this plant, but we believe small plants are obtainable from some of the 
chief metropolitan nurserymen. 
Insect on Vine (IK. Marlin). —Thanks for information sent. We should be 
glad to see further specimens, if any should occur in the spring, since it is 
doubtful whether flies can be reared from those already received. Your pre¬ 
cautions were wisely taken ; at the same time we rather incline to the opinion 
that the larvae which had developed in the pupse sent had not fed upon the 
Vine, but that their appearance might be otherwise explained. 
The Pine Apple Nursery (Curiosity). —This nursery was established by 
Mr. Andrew Henderson, who was succeeded by his son of the same name ; from 
him it passed to Mr. John and Mr. Arthur Henderson. In 1871 Mr. John Weeks 
purchased the business, and sold it in 1876 to the firm of Messrs. E. G. Hender¬ 
son, of the Wellington Road Nursery ; and the present proprietor of the Pine 
Apple Nursery is Mr. Andrew Henderson. 
Magnum Bonum Potatoes (W. O., Elmdctle). —The Potatoes you sent 
confirm what you have said respecting their quality. They were very good. 
Their cropping and disease-resisting properties are generally admitted, and the 
variety has given satisfaction to nearly all cultivators who have grown it under 
favourable conditions. AVe have tasted several samples, and those grown on 
moderately fertile land in open fields have usually been of better quality than 
larger tubers grown in the richer soil of gardens. 
Primulas and Cinerarias (Devon). —You appear to have a good strain 
of Primulas, the colours being varied and some very rich ; the flowers are also of 
good form, but there are better strains in cultivation ; for instance, some flowers 
we recently received from Mr. H. Cannell of Swanley were considerably finer in 
all respects. The colours of the Cinerarias are good, but the majority of the 
flowers are very small. 
Planting a Ribbon Border (II. Dod ).—Four rows will be sufficient, as 
overcrowding mars the effect of such borders. The mode of arrangement is 
usually determined by the plants at disposal. We submit three modes of planting, 
any of which would look well, good plants being employed and the border kept 
in good condition. The names must be read from the front to the back of the 
border: 1, Dwarf blue Lobelia, Golden Feather, dwarf Ageratum, and scarlet 
Pelargonium. 2, Cerastium, Lobelia, silver-variegated Pelargonium, and Perilla, 
Beet, or some other dark-foliaged plant. 3. Dactylis glomerata, A'iola Blue Bell, 
dwarf scarlet Pelargonium, and tall yellow Calceolaria. The address you 
require is Messrs. Arnold & Sons, 35 and 36, AVest Smithfield, London, who will 
give you the information that we are ui able to supply. 
Bedding Pelargoniums in Hyde Park (Old Subscriber).-—It you refer 
to page 424, in the issue of November 4th, 1880, you will find a list of the prin¬ 
cipal varieties that were grown in the above Park and at the Crystal Palace 
during the past two seasons. If you do not possess this number, it can be had 
from the publisher in return for 3.jrf. in postage stamps. AA r e do not know the 
varieties “ Paul Labby ” and “ Nealey,” nor where they can be obtained ; perhaps 
some of our readers can supply the information. 
Early Potatoes (J. Chearn). —Myatt’s Prolific is one of the most service¬ 
able early varieties in cultivation, being an excellent cropper and the produce of 
good quality. AA r e have not tested the new Wiltshire Snowflake with it, which 
is nearly twice the price of Myatt’s. You had better try a small quantity of 
the new variety and ascertain whether it is well adapted for your soil. The 
address you require is Mr. R. Dean, Ranelagh Road, Ealing, London, AV. 
Glazing without Putty (J. T. Sinclair). — Copper tacks about an inch 
long are suitable for squares not exceeding a foot in width. They should 
taper to the points, and have their heads similar to ordinary “clip ” nails, so 
that the whole length of the nail rests on the glass when driven into the sash 
above it; if driven in about half an inch or a little more the glass will be per¬ 
fectly safe. It is important that it be well and carefully embedded in the putty, 
and a roof is then perfectly watertight. The putty which rises upwards when 
the glass is pressed firmly down on it must be neatly removed before the sash- 
bars (outside) are painted, and a strip of paint should cover the glass as wide as 
the rebate in which it rests. 
Sowing Choice Peas (T. Westlake). —You probably cannot do better in 
“ making the most of ” your few choice Peas than to follow the advice of 
«A Kitchen Gardener ” on page 29 of the present volume ; but instead of 
sowing the seeds in 3-inch pots, we should prefer sowing half a dozen peas in 
4-inch pots, which must be washed clean and be quite dry before the soil is placed 
in them, otherwise the roots may be injured when turning them out of the pots. 
Two things are important in this matter—the Peas must not be drawn by remain¬ 
ing too long under glass, nor the pots must not be firmly matted with roots when 
the plants are transferred to the open ground. As soon as there are sufficient 
roots to hold the soil together is the time for planting, and the seed should germi¬ 
nate in a cool frame. With good ground and a little fresh light soil placed round 
the roots at planting you will produce a good if a short row of Peas from the 
seeds at your disposal. We do not know that the “ Earliest of All ” Pea is in 
commerce; if it is Mr. Laxton will probably give information on the subject. 
Vines Unsatisfactory (G. F., Devon).— You have not given us suffi¬ 
cient information to enable us to comprehend the condition of your A’ines. 
You do not even state their age nor the character of the wood and foliage that 
they produce. They may be worn out entirely, or need their roots lifting, but 
at any rate you cannot err by removing the soil down to the roots, just baring 
without injuring them, and adding fresh soil. This should consist of fresh 
turfy loam mixed with a fourth of manure (if the loam is not rich), a bushel 
of bones to each cartload of soil, and as much burnt refuse and wood ashes as 
you like. This may be placed on the roots to a depth of 6 inches, and be 
covered with a layer of rich manure. Copious supplies of liquid manute during 
the summer would doubtless be very beneficial, and in all probability it would 
be desirable to train a young cane from each Vine preparatory to removing the 
old rods. AVe have seen the finest of Grapes produced by Vines trained as yours 
are. If you can produce strong growths and good foliage kept clean and not 
crowded good Grapes will follow. 
Early Potatoes (John Elliott).— There are a number of good short-topped 
early kidney Potatoes such as you require, but the list of early round varieties 
with short tops is somewhat limited. Several firms catalogue improved forms 
of Early Ashleaf ; and though they may be as good as, it is doubtful if they are 
superior to Veitch’s. This with Mona’s Pride, the Early Hammersmith, and 
Early Bird are all good. To either of the foregoing may be added Rivers’ Royal 
Ashleaf, which is a heavily cropping profitable variety. The haulm of Extra 
Early Vermont (the best of the Early Rose section) is not so short as the old 
Ashleaf, but in other respects you would find it excellent. Of round varieties 
we give the preference to Fox’s Seedling and the American variety Alpha. Early 
Oxford produces less haulm than the latter, and the quality of tubers is good, 
but it does not crop so heavily. Early Coldstream is worthy of trial. Triumph 
(American), a red variety, is heavy-cropping and short-topped, and worth a 
trial to succeed Fox’s Seedling. You did not stipulate for exhibition varieties, 
and the foregoing are recommended for their table qualities ; and more than 
the required number (four) are mentioned simply because all are not advertised, 
we believe, by any one firm. 
Walchere.n Cauliflower for Succession (Idem). —It is not generally 
considered good policy to rely exclusively on one variety for maintaining an 
unbroken supply of Cauliflowers through the season, but by repeated sowings it 
is possible to accomplish the feat with the AValcheren. This variety does not 
succeed satisfactorily on all soils, and the stock cannot always be relied upon. 
A deep, newly enriched, loamy soil appears to suit it, and indeed Cauliflowers 
generally. A pinch of seed should have been sown at the end of last August, 
the plants obtained being pricked out in cold frames and given all the light and 
air possible during the winter. Towards the end of March or early in April, 
according to the weather experienced, part of the batch (the strongest plants) 
to be planted out in a warm sheltered position, and lightly protected from frosts 
with branches of evergreens or inverted pots. To succeed these the remainder 
of the autumn-sown plants may, a few days later, be planted in a cooler open 
spot. A small sowing to be made in gentle heat during February, the plants 
pricked out in boxes or in a frame, hardened off before becoming drawn, and 
towards the end of March finally planted out in an open spot. If you have no 
antumn-sown plants give this batch a warm position. Early in March, April, 
May, and June small sowings may be made in the open, and if the after treat¬ 
ment be liberal a good supply may be obtained till frost intervenes. During the 
prevalence of hot dry weather the plants will be much benefited by copious 
waterings and a mulching of short manure or litter of any kind. 
Cucumbers and Melons (Melon). —You may sow the seeds now pro¬ 
vided you have no difficulty in maintaining the temperature we advised last 
week, but if your house is lofty we doubt if you will be able to do that with only 
“ one pipe running the length of the house ” for top heat; this, however, you 
can easily ascertain. AA r e doubt if you can grow a more suitable Cucumber than 
Telegraph ; and good free-growing Melons that usually set their fruit freely 
are Victory of Bath and Eastnor Castle Green-flesh. As scarlet-fleshed varieties 
the Blenheim Orange (new) and Reid’s Scarlet are good. To make the most of 
the seed we should place one seed in the centre of a 3-inch pot. The soil should 
consist of turfy loam and leaf soil, the pots being filled about three parts full, 
and not pressing the soil firmly. The seeds should not be placed flat in the soil 
but on their edges, and be just covered. If the soil is in a proper state as to 
moisture, that is, neither too wet nor too dry, and the pots plunged in the hot¬ 
bed, no water will probably be required until the seedlings appear. AVhen water 
is needed it must always be given in a tepid state, or a few degrees warmer than 
the house. AV’hen the roots of the plants appear on the surface of the soil add 
fresh warmed compost. AA r hen the plants are an inch or two high withdraw 
the pots from the hotbed and place them on it for a few days preparatory to 
removing them to a shelf near the glass, so that they may grow as sturdy as 
possible. The temperature of the house should then be 65° at night, 70“ by day 
with fire heat alone, increasing to 85° with sun. Ventilate slightly by the top 
ventilators when the heat rises above 70°, and close in the afternoon as early as 
possible, so that the temperature afterwards does not rise above 85°. The 
greater the heat in the house the greater must be the amount of moisture by 
damping the paths, wall, &c. If j r ou can raise strong healthy plants you will 
have surmounted the greatest difficulty, and you may then hope for a “ measure 
of success.” Liquid manure will not be required until the plants are bearing 
heavy crops, and a peck of fowl’s dung will make you fifty gallons suitable for 
the purpose. 
Worms in Flower Pots (Col. Simpson). —AVe know of no plan so safe 
for getting rid of worms as watering the soil thoroughly with lime water. If 
you place a lump of fresh lime, say about 2 lbs., in a pail of water and stir well, 
then let it settle for two or three days, skimming the film off the surface, 
you will have clear lime water, which, if applied to the soil, will cause the 
worms to rise to the surface of the pots, when they can be easily picked up 
and removed from the house. Others, however, will enter the pots from the 
