136 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 17, 1881. 
1 was anxious to observe the effect of such extreme cold. The 
pots were frozen hard for at least a fortnight, and except a few 
specimens of green-edged—which I find much more tender as a 
class than any other—they now show no indication of having 
suffered. In a few pots that had been excessively watered before 
the frost, the expansion thereby caused swelled the soil above 
the rim, but after the thaw a gentle pressure put plant and soil 
back again without apparent injury. Plants indoors suffered 
slightly by having the leaf moisture withdrawn by the frost, 
which has the same effect as a hot sun or dry March wind on 
Auriculas. A cautious watering neutralised this. The flowering 
will, I anticipate, be ten days later this year.—W. J. M., Clonmel. 
work™hheweek, : 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Outdoor operations have been impeded by the weather, which at 
the time of writing is still unfavourable for preparing ground for 
Onion, Parsnip, and Carrot seed ; but no unnecessary delay should be 
permitted, as the soil of gardens under proper cultivation is so friable 
as to admit of being worked very soon after the weather has become 
suitable. Onions, and indeed all root crops, succeed well after Celery, 
or on ground that has been well manured and deeply stirred. To 
prevent grubs attacking the plants a dressing of lime, soot, and salt 
in equal parts may be applied and pointed in at the rate of a peek per 
rod before sowing the seed, as the mixture is also a good fertiliser. 
Drills for Onions should be 12 inches asunder, those for Parsnips 
15 to 18 inches, and the Early Horn section of Carrots about the 
same distance as the Onions. The ground for Onions should be 
rendered firm, treading it well before the drills are made and after 
the seed is covered. For Parsnips and Carrots the ground should 
only be moderately firm. Leek seed may be sown in rows 12 to 
15 inches distance apart. In the north of England sowing the above 
may be advantageously deferred for another three weeks. Shallots 
and Garlic should be planted as soon as possible. If a sowing of 
Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, early varieties, of Cabbage, Cabbage and 
Cos Lettuces have not been made in heat, sow at once on a warm 
border at the foot of a south wall, coating the seeds with red lead to 
prevent mice and birds taking the seeds, placing a few inches of fine 
soil as a bed for the seed, and cover them with similar soil. Lettuce 
wintered in seed beds, also autumn-sown Onions, can be transplanted 
into rich soil, filling up blanks in the permanent beds, firming the 
soil about the roots of those upheaved by frost, and hoe between the 
rows of these and similar crops. Make successional sowings of Peas 
and Broad Beans in the open quarters. These dipped in paraffin 
before sowing will be proof against the attacks of rats and mice. 
Forcing Department .—Continue sowing French or Kidney Beans as 
fast as space permits ; the most forward will require earthing up, and 
must be kept as near the glass as possible. Potatoes in pits or frames 
may be earthed up, warming the soil before using it. Where Seakale 
is forced on the ground a batch of crowns should be covered with 
pots or boxes, and surrounded and covered with about 3 feet thickness 
of fermenting materials. Turn over and supply new materials to 
fermenting beds where Asparagus roots have become exhausted, and 
introduce fresh roots. Pits with moveable lights are most suitable, 
so as to admit air freely above 50°, the temperature of the beds being 
from 70° to 80°. Large supplies of Mint are required in some places, 
which can only be maintained by the introduction of fresh roots at 
suitable intervals. Sow in pots or pans seed of Tomatoes, Capsicums, 
Basil, and Sweet Marjoram. The very early Celery will now be 
large enough to be pricked off in small pots singly, employing rich 
soil, and placing them in a warm pit as near to the glass as possible. 
Tomatoes, if strong enough, should be repotted as fast as is consistent 
with their growth. Cauliflowers and Lettuces in frames will require 
air on all favourable occasions. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—In the house closed in November, and for 
which fire heat w r as commenced early in December, attention must be 
given the trees in tying and regulating the shoots as they advance. 
Shoots retained on a level with or above the fruit should, unless 
required for extension, be stopped at the third leaf, and subsequent 
breaks to one joint. Remove growths not necessary for furnishing 
next year’s bearing wood or for trees extending. Every shoot should 
have space for its full exposure to light and air. The fruit is swelling 
fast, therefore attend carefully to the borders, giving copious water¬ 
ings when needed, and for weakly trees tepid liquid manure. SyriDge 
the trees morning and afternoon, so that the foliage may be dry 
before night. Thin the fruits where too thickly placed, removing 
those at the back or under side of the trellis, retaining about one- 
third more than will be required for the crop. The temperature 
should now range from 00° to G5° at night and 70° to 75° in the day 
with sun heat. In the next succession house started at the beginning 
of January attention will be required in disbudding the trees, retain¬ 
ing one bud at the short base of the current year’s bearing shoot, 
and another on a level with or above the fruit. Extensions and shoots 
upon them may be left 15 to 18 inches apart, which is sufficiently 
close for the bearing wood. 
Vines .—Those in the house started early in December are in ficwer, 
and should be afforded a night temperature of G5° ; a few degrees 
more when mild, and a few degrees less when the weather is severe. 
Artificial impregnation must be attended to, especially with Muscats 
and other shy-setting varieties. Commence thinning when the berries 
are set, and do not allow more lateral extension than can have due 
light and air. Afford liquid manure to the inside borders in a tepid 
state, and mulch with half-decayed manure. Damp available surfaces 
frequently. Very early Vines thinned and approaching the stoning 
period will require careful attention, ventilating early in the day, but 
allowing an advance to 80° or 85°, and close early. Afford liquid 
manure copiously, especially to Vines in pots, allowing a moderate 
extension of the laterals, particularly above the fruit. Vines started 
early in the year will need attention in tying down the shoots and 
disbudding, also stopping when the shoots have advanced so as to 
cover the available space with foliage that can have full exposure 
to light and air. The temperature should be advanced to GO 51 at 
night, 5 Q less on cold nights or mornings, G5° by day, advancing to 
75° from sun heat, closing early, allowing a rise to 80°, with plenty 
of moisture in the house. Vines for affording ripe fruit in July 
and August should now be started. It will not be necessary to 
protect the outside border, but the inside should be well soaked 
with water or liquid manure at 85° to 90°. Damp the rods and 
other available surfaces two or three times a day, but allow them 
to become dry at least once every twenty-four hours. Maintain 
50° to 55° by artificial means, and 65° with sun heat. If there is 
any danger of the rods breaking irregularly secure them in a hori¬ 
zontal position. In late houses the Grapes will ere this have been 
cut and bottled, but if not it must be attended to at once, pruning 
the Vines, dressing the cuts with styptic or patent knotting, 
cleansing the house, removing the inert surface soil, and applying 
fresh turfy loam, with about a twentieth part half-inch bones, 
and a similar quantity of charred refuse. Keep them as cool as 
possible, so as to afford a complete if only a short season of rest. 
Old Vines are often much improved by a dressing of lime, which 
may be given now at the rate of half a bushel per rod, pointing-in 
as deeply as the roots permit. 
Figs .—Trees planted out and started early in the year will require 
attention in regulating the growth. The system usually followed is 
to obtain the first crop from the terminal shoots and spurs, which 
necessitates the removal annually at the winter pruning of nearly 
the whole of the shoots that have reached the limit of the trellis, 
also the spurs that have been stopped. This has a tendency to 
induce strong growth, which must be so regulated as to spread over 
the whole surface of the trellis, each shoot having the full benefit of 
the light. Keep the night temperature at 55° to 60°, and G5° by day 
from fire heat, commencing to ventilate a little at that temperature, 
allowing an advance with increased ventilation to 80°, closing the 
house with sun heat at 75°. Syringe the trees twice every day, and 
otherwise maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere. The 
