February i7, 1881 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 137 
shoots issuing from the base of the fresh terminal growths should be 
stopped at the fourth or fifth leaf. The earliest-forced trees in pots 
must he regularly attended to with water, as neglect may cause the 
loss of the crop. Trees in pots started later should have the same 
treatment as advised for the early ones. 
Orchard House .—The pruning of all trees that were not so treated 
in autumn or early winter should be attended to, cutting away any 
weakly growths, especially of the Peach and Nectarine, leaving the 
best situated and most promising growths at such distance that they 
will have free exposure to light and air. If the spurs are crowded 
it is advisable to thin them moderately, shortening any irregularity 
of growth to preserve the symmetry of the trees. The house should 
be thoroughly cleaned, and the trees when pruned be dressed with an 
insecticide and placed in position for the summer. Apricots and 
Pears should have a light position, and where there is thorough 
ventilation, especially when the trees are in bloom, as without this 
a crop of either Apricots or Pears under glass is uncertain. The 
Apricot when in flower should be kept dry, and there is then little 
danger of the blossom being injured by cold winds. Cherries should 
also have a light and airy position. Trees in pots when placed in 
their summer position should be perfectly level, and if it is desired 
to confine the roots to the pots each may be raised on three bricks. 
Borders containing trees will be found somewhat firm and dry, and 
if the surface be very close point it over to the depth of an inch or two 
with a fork before giving a thorough supply of water. Tx-ees in pots 
require good supplies of water, repeated as necessary to render the 
soil thoroughly moist. Ventilate in accordance with the state of 
the weather, and when frost is not expected the ventilators may be 
kept open night and day. 
Melons .—Bottom heat is essential to the successful cultivation of 
early Melons. Hot-water pipes are unquestionably the best, as they 
afford a regular and lasting heat, but very good results may be had 
from fermenting materials. Equal parts of stable litter and Oak or 
Beech leaves form a mild and durable bottom heat. They should be 
thrown into a heap about a fortnight before it is wished to make 
the bed ; in a few days it will be seen whether there is sufficient 
moisture to insure fermentation, and if not turn it over and moisten 
as required. About two turnings will be necessary before making 
up the bed. A bed about 5 feet in height at the back and 4 feet 
in front will be requisite at this early season. In houses with 
hot-water pipes to afford bottom heat the pipes should be covered 
with brickbats and to about 6 inches over the pipes, and over these 
a layer of turves grass side downwards, and then rather heavy turfy 
loam with an admixture of old cowdung, about a sixth, placing in 
ridges or mounds a foot in depth and that width at the top, ramming 
it well down. Similar mounds will be required in pits or frames, and 
for these a bottom heat of 80° to 90° at the commencement, and for 
hot-water beds 80°, is suitable. Keep the young plants near the 
glass to insure short-jointed growth, stopping those for pits and 
frames at the second rough leaf, whilst those intended for trellises 
should not be stopped, but have the growth secured to a stick. In 
planting out place a little dry soot around each as a guard against 
slugs. A moist atmosphere will be necessary, and a temperature of 70° 
to 75° by day, falling about 5° at night. With sun heat allow 
an advance to 80° or 85°, and ventilate with great care. Sow for 
succession, and pot off seedlings. 
Cucumbers .—Many of the directions concerning Melons are equally 
applicable to Cucumbers as regards bottom heat, but the soil need 
not be so heavy as for Melons. Prepai'ations must be made for 
planting out young plants soon in heated pits, and seed may be 
sown for raising plants to be put out in frames as they become 
cleared of Potatoes. The weather has been harsh lately and neces¬ 
sitated sharp firing to maintain the proper temperature, which shoixld 
not now be allowed to fall below 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, 
and 80° to 85° with sun heat. Ventilation will require careful 
attention, closing early, damping the paths and the plants lightly at 
the same time. Encourage root-action by di-essing the surface of 
the beds with fresh warm loam in a lumpy state, watering about 
twice a week, alternating with weak tepid liquid manure. Bemove 
all bad leaves and exhausted growths, keep up a succession of young 
fruitful growths, and stop one or two joints beyond the fruit accord¬ 
ing to the space. Afford weakly plants moi - e extension of growth, 
and remove all flowers and fruit from them until in better condition. 
Avoid overcrowding and overcropping. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
Hotbeds .—Prepare for making these for Cucumbers, Carrots, Pota¬ 
toes, and propagating bedding and other plants. Where a single¬ 
light frame is available a hotbed should first be made, and it will then 
be of service for raising Cucumber plants, and also for seeds and 
cuttings of plants required early. Cucumber and Melon plants started 
in heated houses are apt to become infested with insects, which will 
cling to them when transferred to frames. A single-light frame pre¬ 
vents this, and also renders it unnecessary to make a large bed before 
it is wanted. Much depends upon the proper preparation of the 
heating material. Horse stable manure is most generally available, 
and this requires to be well shaken into a heap to ferment, 'turning it 
before the centre is dry, and allowing the heap to remain for another 
week or ten days, at which time much objectionable rankness will 
have passed off. If by any chance the manure should become dry 
it must be freely watered as it is turned. Oak, Chestnut, or Beech 
leaves mixed in equal quantities with the manure as the bed is being 
formed will moderate the heat. 
Much of the manure is at first often little better than clean straw, 
and it is advisable to throw out the driest portion, as if used it 
gives off a rapid, rank, and fleeting heat. This litter may be utilised 
for covering the frames during the nights, and the hotbeds as the heat 
declines, or it may be wheeled into the cow yard and will there in a 
short time be converted into some of the best of heating material. 
Cowyard manure, although slow in effect, eventually gives a strong 
heat, much sweeter than that obtained from horse manure. Hotbeds 
at this time of year should be made about 4 feet high at the back 
and 3 feet high at the front. It is not advisable to tread the manure, 
but it should be made moderately firm with the fork. 
QUANTITIES OF SEEDS REQUIRED FOR A SMALL GARDEN. 
Doubtless the majority of the readers of this column purchase one 
of the advertised collections of seed, and certainly go the cheapest 
way to work. It does not follow that the cheapest is always the 
best way, and those who know how should select for themselves, 
cheap and good as the collections undoubtedly are. For instance, 
they often include very tall-growing Peas, which are valueless in 
innumerable cases where even short stakes are with difficulty pro¬ 
cured. Peas may be grown with or without stakes, the former method 
being preferable. Suitable varieties for small gardens are William I., 
Dickson’s First and Best, and Impi-oved Sangster’s No. 1 for the 
earliest crops ; to succeed these—Alpha, Nelson’s Vanguard, and 
Laxton’s Supreme ; these to be followed by Dr. McLean, G. F. Wilson, 
and James’ Prolific; and for the latest sowings, Veilch’s Perfection, 
Hairs’Dwarf Mammoth (also good for the second early crops), and 
Premier. The preference is given to the first name in each case, 
and about six pints in all may be procured. Good tall-growing Peas 
are Culverwell’s Telegraph, Fortyfold, and Ne Plus Ultra. 
Runner Beans may also be grown without stakes, and one pint of 
the old Scarlet will be sufficient; and of Kidney Beans half a pint 
each of Osborn’s Forcing and Canadian Wonder, and one pint each 
of Early Longpod and Green Windsor Broad Beans. For the earliest 
supply of Beet a small packet of the Turnip-rooted may be ordered, 
1 oz. of Dell’s Crimson sufficing for the main crop. Carrots—1 oz. 
each of Early Horn and James’ Intermediate, or 2 ozs. of Nantes Horn 
alone. Broccoli—one quarter ounce each of Purple Sprouting, Wal- 
cheren, Knight’s Protecting, and Cattell’s Eclipse ; and small packets 
of Snow’s Winter White, Osborn’s Winter White, and Leamington. 
Cauliflowers—one quarter ounce Dwarf Erfurt Mammoth, and small 
packets of Eclipse and Veitch’s Autumn Giant. White Celery— 
Cole’s Crystal White. Red Celery—Leicester Red, a small packet of 
each. Cucumbers—a small packet each of Rollisson’s Telegraph for 
frames, and Stockwood Ridge for outside. Melons—Victory of Bath, 
green-flesh, and Read’s Hybrid, scarlet-flesh, are still two of the best 
for amateurs to grow. Cabbages—Quarter-ounce packets of East 
