February 24, 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
started about the following times :—Allnmanda Hendersoni in early April, 
Bougainvillea glabra and Clerodendron Thomson® at the commencement of 
June, Stephanotis floribunda in May, and Ronde'etia speciosa in April. Much 
care will be needed to have them all in good condition at the exact period you 
name, as some will probably start more quickly than the others, and you must 
then exercise your discretion in retarding them. 
Trees Injured by Rabbits (A Lady). —Perhaps the simplest plan you 
can adopt is to secure some thick plasters of clay and fresh cow dung round the 
stems of the trees, and if the bark is not very much injured the wounds will 
heal. Old canvas will do for wrapping round the stems, and if this is dressed 
with tar or paraffin the rabbits will not touch it. Tar should not be applied to 
the stems of the trees, as so used it is often injurious. Liquid grafting wax is 
also a very useful application for covering wounds. It is of the consistency of 
varnish, and is applied very thinly with a brush. Care must be taken not to lay 
it on thickly, for the surface hardens so rapidly the alcohol is prevented from 
evaporating. Take of rosin, 1 lb. ; beef tallow, 1 oz. ; spirits of turpentine, 
1 tablespoonful; alcohol (95 per cent.), 6 ozs. Place the rosin over a slow fire, 
when melted take it off and add the beef tallow, stirring it constantly ; let it 
cool down somewhat, mix the spirits of turpentine little by little with it, and at 
last the alcohol in the same way. Should the alcohol be added while the mass 
is too hot much will be lost by rapid evaporation ; if, on the contrary, it is too 
cool it will form a viscid lump, and must be slightly heated agaiu. Stirring 
briskly is indispensable to mix the ingredients thoroughly. In well-corked 
bottles it keeps for years. If in course of time it becomes too thick the addition 
of some alcohol will make it liquid again. For this purpose it must always be 
warmed. It is a good plan to put the bottle containing it in boiling or hot 
water to accomplish this. 
Tbe Auvergne Pea (IF. B., Notts). —The Auvergne Pea was introduced 
from France some years ago by the Royal Horticultural Society, but although 
it very far surpassed every other variety of 
White Pea then in cultivation, it never be¬ 
came widely known or generally cultivated. 
It is a most characteristic variety, and always 
easily distinguishable by its long and curved 
pod. The plant is of a moderately strong 
habit of growth, producing a single stem from 
4 to 5 feet high, according to the soil in 
which it is grown, and bears from twelve to 
fifteen pods on each. The pods are sometimes 
produced in pairs ; when fully grown they 
are 4J inches long, and over half an inch 
broad, tapering towards the point and very 
much curved as shown in fig. 35 ; they con¬ 
tain from nine to twelve peas, which are very 
closely compressed, and are the size of the 
Early Frames. Even the small pods contain 
as many as from seven to nine peas in each. 
The ripe seed is white. It is a second early 
Pea, useful and productive, and it succeeds 
better in a dry soil and season than any variety 
we have grown. It much resembles Dickson’s 
Favourite, but the plant is stronger than that 
variety, and a few days later. The Auvergne 
is synonymous with the White Scimitar and 
White Sabre, under which names it was grown 
many years ago. 
Seedling Azaleas (G. Russell). — The 
flowers you sent are very beautiful and appear 
to be intermediate between the parents named 
— i.e., amcena, pollen parent, LaVictoire, seed 
parent; and if the habit is, as yon say, that of 
the former, the cross is a decided acquisition. 
Some of the flowers resemble La Yictoire in 
colour, while in form they are like amcena but 
larger; in others the characters seem re¬ 
versed. The hose-in-hose flowers are especi¬ 
ally notable for their symmetry of form and 
distinct colour, which seems to possess a 
peculiar shade of purple, suffusing the salmon- 
pink hue that chiefly prevails. You have cei- 
tainly been fortunate in obtaining this cross, 
which is quite in the way of those forms ob¬ 
tained by Mr. Carmichael a few years ago. 
Vegetables in India (X.).—The re¬ 
marks to which you refer occurred in the pre¬ 
face to the eighteenth volume of the Cottage 
Gardener in 1857, where it was stated that at 
one of the exhibitions of the Calcutta Horti¬ 
cultural Society the following vegetables were 
exhibited :—Celery, Cabbage (Red Drumhead and Savoy), Spinach, Turnips, 
French Beans, Endive, Carrots, Lettuces, Red Beet, Artichokes, Potatoes, Toma¬ 
toes, Peas, Cauliflowers, and Watercresses, all of which it is added “ would not 
have shamed a market gardener at Fulham.” 
Amaryllis Culture (Tyro, Essex). —The plants require abundant moisture 
and nourishment when growing, but after the foliage has attained its full size 
they require no more water than just sufficient to prevent the leaves flagging. 
Perfect drainage must be secured. Strong hazel or yellow loam free from iron, 
with a little sharp sand, is all they need in the way of soil. Leaf soil and 
other vegetable matter, which slowly decompose, are to be avoided. Too much 
heat when growing is injurious, as it causes drawn foliage and weakens the 
bulbs. They require as much heat when at rest as when growing; and 
though this may appear to some the reverse of good management, it is only 
what they receive in their native habitats. The roots remain on the bulbs 
throughout the year; taking them out of the pots when at rest, therefore, robs 
the bulbs of that which Nature has provided to collect food for the support of 
the scape of flowers. Deep, narrow pots, 8 inches in depth, and double the 
diameter of the bulb, are the best description to grow them in. Frequent 
potting and plenty of pot room is their bane, and potting a plant of this kind 
because the pot is full of roots will prevent its flowering. The pot never can be 
too full of roots, as the bulbs flower all the better for being cramped ; and so 
long as the drainage is perfect and the soil sweet, it is immaterial how long the 
plants are kept in the same soil and pots, if only the offsets are removed and 
potted, thus preventing their exhausting the parent. Examine the pots at once, 
and see that the drainage is all right. Having made it perfect replace the ball 
in the pot, adding a little soil upon the drainage if the plant or bulb be too low. 
159 
and gently stir the surface of the soil around it; if any fresh soil be added it 
should be dry, and the bulb will be none the worse if it be covered to the neck. 
Some of the tender kinds decay; unless the bulbs are thus covered they 
are apt to decay at the base. In looking to the drainage and stirring the 
surface care should be taken not to injure a single root nor break the ball, 
for that is robbing the plant of so much absorbent surface, and is a direct way 
of weakening the bulbs. Place the pots on a shelf about 1 foot or from that to 
18 inches from the glass, and if the temperature range from 55° to 60° it could 
not be better. The situation should be light and free from drip. No water 
must be given until the leaves appear, for the concentrated juices of the bulb are 
sufficient without the aid of water, when they must be slightly watered, 
gradually increasing the quantity as the leaves and scapes elongate. When 
the scape has risen 6 inches give a plentiful supply of water, and let every 
alternate watering be weak liquid manure, or, what is more safe for an amateur, 
1 oz. of Peruvian guano dissolved in a gallon of rain water, and with this water 
the plant every other day, and the intervening day with pure water. All 
waterings to be applied a few degrees over rather than a few below 1 the tempera¬ 
ture of the house ; enough to be given to run through the pot, and if it does not 
do this without having to stand on the surface, or is a long time in doing so, 
the soil is either dust-dry or sodden, or the drainage is choked. Examination 
being made, the defect, whatever it bo, must be remedied at once. The leaves 
should not under any circumstances be suffered to flag at this stage, and the 
atmosphere must be kept moist by syringing night and morning every available 
evaporating surface with water of the same temperature as the house. Air 
should be given on all favourable opportunities, but cold currents must be 
studiously avoided. 
Names of Fruits (George Picker). — No. 1, Golden Nonpareil ; 2, Golden 
Pearmain ; 3, Norfolk Bearer ; 4, Winter Peach. (J. Bakeicell).— 1, Cannot be 
identified ; 2, Boston Russet. (R. Masters). —1, D’Arcy Spice, called also Spring 
Ribston and Baddow Pippin ; 2,cannot be identified. (A. A. G.). —We are unable 
to name your Apple ; the specimen appears imperfect. Many Apples that havo 
been sent have been so much injured by frost as to quite change or destroy their 
flavour, thus depriving us of one important test in identification. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— FEBRUARY 23. 
TRADE keeps quiet, our market being bare with the exception of imported 
goods, large quantities of Canadian Apples still reaching us, but in unsatisfactory 
condition. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
i sieve 
2 
6 to 4 
G 
Melons . 
each 
0 
OtoO 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cherries. 
V ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Oranges . 
100 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 12 
0 
1G 
0 
Peaches . 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. 
dozen 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Filberts. 
%>ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dessert . 
dozen 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Cobs. 
tp ft 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples .... 
V ft 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Plums . 
} sieve 
0 
0 
• 
ft 
Grapes . 
V ft 
3 
0 
8 
0 
Walnuts . 
bushel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Lemons. 
^ case 12 
0 
18 
0 
ditto .. . 
100 
0 
0 
0 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
9 
a. 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
9. 
d 
Artichokes. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Mushrooms . 
punnet 
Jt 
o to l 
G 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard* Cress .. 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
Beans,Kidney .... 
100 
r 
0 
l 
6 
Onions . 
bushel 
3 
6 
5 
0 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
l 
0 
2 
0 
pickling . 
quart 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
6 
Parsley . doz.bunches 
6 
0 
0 
0 
Brussels Sprouts. . 
J sieve 
0 
9 
1 
3 
Parsnips . 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Peas . 
quart 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Carrots. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Potatoes . 
bushel 
3 
9 
4 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Kidney. 
bushel 
4 
0 
4 
6 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
0 
0 
3 
6 
Radishes_ doz .bunches 
i 
6 
2 
0 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
i 
0 
0 
9 
Cucumbers. 
each 
1 
3 
2 
6 
Scorzonera . 
bundle 
i 
6 
0 
0 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Seakale . 
basket 
3 
0 
3 
8 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots. 
V ft. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Garlic . 
V ft. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Spinach . 
bushel 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Turnips. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 0 
3 
0 
4 
Vegetable Marrows 
each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
HOME FARM ' B 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
THE COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGES OF FATTENING 
BULLOCKS AND SHEEP. 
( Continued from jutge 141.) 
Previous to our entering into any minute investigation of the 
cost and results of our method of feeding and fatting cattle and 
sheep we had always entertained the opinion, but it was not 
general at that time amongst farmers, that sheep stock barely 
paid for their keep, and that after we had charged the roots, &c., 
at feeding value we had only the manure left as compensation. 
We also supposed that the bullock-feeding was worse than sheep¬ 
feeding, because of the extra cost in the cartage of roots and 
manure returned to the land, and so it would prove no doubt 
were it not that the system of feeding exhibited by these com- 
