JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
176 
[ March 3, 1881. 
able to famish the purchaser with information on this point should 
he need it. The ordinary-sized plants priced in the Rose cata¬ 
logues are not always the most desirable. Rose-growers have 
usually on hand what are termed ‘ extra-sized ’ plants, and these, 
though somewhat more costly per plant, are really the cheapest in 
the end, especially for the inexperienced grower, or for those who 
wish to realise a good display at once. Supposing a given sum 
to be fixed on, it would likely prove more satisfactory to purchase 
a smaller number of the larger plants than a greater number of 
the small ones.” Every phase of culture suitable for every class 
of Rose is detailed in the volume, and numerous illustrations are 
given that cannot fail to be of practical use to the cultivator. 
Choice descriptive lists of varieties are submitted as suitable for 
various purposes, indeed anything the author knows about grow¬ 
ing Roses in pots (and that is a great deal) appears to have been 
told without reserve, and those who carry out the instructions 
given may hope to succeed as well as he has done. The engraving 
is no exaggerated picture of a specimen Rose, but is only a fair 
representation of what may be effected either in pots or in the 
open air, and with such examples of culture there is no wonder 
that Roses are popular and their culture still increasing. Incor¬ 
porated with the work is the “ autobiography of a pot Rose ” in 
five chapters, which is alike entertaining and instructive. To all 
who are essaying the culture of Roses in pots we commend this 
volume of ninety-two pages, as we are convinced that it will be 
of much service to them, and prove a satisfactory investment. 
THE GREAT FROST AND ROSES. 
Following out Mr. George Baker’s suggestion in his interest¬ 
ing articles on the subject, I am pruning this year a fortnight 
earlier than usual. I apprehend fully that extra time will be 
needed by Roses cut down within an inch of their lives, or at any 
rate within an inch of the ground, to make all the new wood 
required by exhibition time ; I am, therefore, in a position to 
record the results of an investigation made upon Roses which 
have endured, with but a little fern protection, over 32° of frost. 
I am speaking now of bush Roses on own roots and Manetti. To 
mention those of which the pith is discoloured, as far as the 
pruning knife can get at them, would be to go through half a 
catalogue. I shall confine myself therefore to those where I have 
been able to find sound wood at last more or less near to the 
ground. Not many appear to have been killed absolutely out¬ 
right except Teas, some Hybrid Teas, and Countess of Oxford. 
Though this variety appears specially tender it is interesting to 
observe an equally smooth wood of the same variety, Mdlle. 
Hippolyte Jamain bearing the ordeal far better. The others of 
which I am able to speak favourably are Abel Carriere, Alfred 
Colomb, Marie Baumann, Boule de Neige, Dr. Hogg, La France, 
W. W. Saunders, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Marie Rady, Charles 
Darwin, Madame Gabriel Luizet, and, I am glad to observe Ma¬ 
dame Bellenden Kerr—this latter being a more robust variety of 
that most lovely but too tender Mdlle. Bonnaire. The turn of 
standards is yet to come.—A. C. 
jf' 
|p WORK. F °ff TIffi WEEK..' 
If 
s 
4 
) 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The prolonged continuance of frost and snow has necessarily 
delayed many operations, which will considerably increase the num¬ 
ber of those usually requiring attention under favourable conditions 
at this somewhat busy season, hence the necessity of executing pre¬ 
paratory work which can be done, such as having a good supply of 
Pea sticks, stakes, &c. To have a supply of new Potatoes from the 
open* ground at the earliest possible period is the object in most 
places, and for this a breadth of early varieties, such as Yeitch’s 
Ashleaf, Early Bird, Myatt’s Prolific, or similar sorts should be 
planted when the soil is in a fit state, choosing a warm south border 
or other sheltered situation. A row planted at the base of a south 
wall where protection is afforded the trees will accelerate the lifting 
ten days or a fortnight. Potato sets should be laid out singly in a 
place where frost is merely excluded, and not only cool but moist, in 
which the tubers will keep firm, making but little growth and that 
of a sturdy nature. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines .—Start a batch of suckers which are intended to furnish 
plants for a supply of fruit at the end of the year onward through 
the spring and early summer months. Prepare the materials required 
for potting, and the fermenting bed in some close structure to main¬ 
tain a temperature of 80° to 90®, and where great fire heat will not 
be necessary to secure a temperature of 55° to 65° with regularity. 
The best developed plants selected at the beginning of last Decem¬ 
ber and forwarded by an advanced temperature have fruit showing ; 
and as it is desirable to advance the ripening of these as much as 
possible the temperature should be maintained at 65° to 70° at night, 
and 5° to 10° more under favourable conditions by day, ventilating 
as before advised, economising fire heat by making the most of sun 
heat. As the fruit advances the plants will require more water at 
the roots, examining other stock once a week. Recently started 
plants intended to form a succession to those above named must not 
be brought on too rapidly; G5° at night and 70° by day will be 
sufficient. 
Vines .—The weather has been most unfavourable for early forcing ; 
cold easterly winds, no sun, and snow very frequent. Keep up a 
good supply of moisture in the early houses, having the evaporation 
troughs filled with guano water, and sprinkle available surfaces in 
the house in the early part of the afternoon. Vines in flower set 
best when the atmosphere does not contain too much moisture, ven¬ 
tilating whenever external conditions permit, and closing early with 
sun heat. Shy-setting varieties when in flower should have the rods 
shaken two or three times a day to aid fertilisation by distributing 
the pollen, or dust over the bunches with a camel’s-hair brush or 
plume of Pampas Grass. Fruiting Vines in pots must not receive a 
check through dryness of the soil or want of nourishment. Liquid 
manure may be liberally supplied, providing it be tepid and not too 
strong. Those Vines that have the roots extending from the pots 
into fermenting material should have moisture given them there as 
well as in the pots. Vine eyes inserted as previously advised will 
now be rooted, and should as soon as the roots reach the sides of the 
pots be shifted into G-inch pots, placing them on shelves over the 
hot-water pipes in preference to plunging in bottom heat. Syringe 
freely amongst them, and pinch out the lateral growth as produced, 
unless required for planting out this season, when all growth should 
be retained. Muscats, Lady Downe’s, Gros Colman, and other late 
varieties may now be encouraged, as they require a long growing 
season to ripen the Grapes thoroughly, for unless ripened by Sep¬ 
tember they will not keep well. Little advantage will be gained by 
covering the outside borders with fermenting materials after this 
period, but means of throwing off heavy rains or snow will be bene¬ 
ficial. The internal borders should be thoroughly soaked with water 
or liquid manure at 90°. Complete the preparation of late vineries, 
washing the glass and woodwork, dressing the Vines, and removing 
the loose surface soil from the border and supplying fresh, for as a 
general rule all houses should be started not later than the beginning 
of April. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouses. — Camellias that flowered in the autumn are now 
growing, and should have a temperature of 55° at night and an 
advance of 10 9 to 15° by day, plenty of atmospheric moisture, and 
slight shade. Plants in flower should be shaded to ensure their 
greater duration. Straggling shoots should be cut back to keep 
the plants in shape,'the best time being immediately after flowering. 
Any potting required should be attended to at the same time. Avoid 
overpotting, and provide efficient drainage. Hardwooded plants 
requiring more root space should be attended to at once, as the plants 
have then a long season of growth. Young plants will first require 
attention, commencing with those active at the roots. See that the 
soil is thoroughly moist before potting, and press it very firmly. 
Keep the plants rather close, not ventilating at the side of the house 
for a few weeks, and keep the shelves and other available surfaces 
well moistened, especially in bright weather. Good fibrous peat 
with about a sixth of ci-ystal sand for the strong-growing kinds, or 
silver sand for the more delicate-rooted varieties, is a suitable compost. 
Do not disturb the roots more than is necessary to remove the crocks 
from the base of the ball, and any plants that are very much root-bound 
