196 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March io, isai. 
and add 5,000,000 for plants planted in previous years and now- 
alive, and it will give you 20,000,000 Cinchona trees, which in 
five years will yield, either by taking strips and mossing, or by 
the shaving process, about 10,000,000 lbs. of dry bark a year.” 
Mr. Ferguson, in his Ceylon Dh'ectory, estimates the production 
of Cinchona bark for the world at 13.471,000 lbs., of which 
Ceylon is put down for 150,000 lbs.; ” “ but when,” remarks 
the correspondent referred to, “ it produces 10,000,000, as I 
believe it will in 1885, the total production of the world will 
exceed the demand of 1876-78 by 10,847,000 lbs. The question 
therefore arises, Will the demand for Cinchona bark in 1S85 
equal the supply, or will the bark become unsaleable except at 
unremunerative prices ? ” 
A 
. ^ 
WORK fouxhk WEEK.. : 
is 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
With March a busy season usually commences, but the presence 
of snow in many localities, and the unfavourable state of the ground 
for the reception of seed, will necessitate prompt attention in pre¬ 
paring it at the earliest opportunity. Onions and Parsnips should 
be sown as soon as possible, also good breadths of Early Horn and 
James’s Intermediate Carrot, reserving the main sowing for winter 
use until April. Leeks also should be sown when the ground is in a 
fit state. Sow early Turnips—Early Munich is valuable. Lettuce and 
Radishes from this time forward should be sown about every three 
weeks. A successional sowing of Peas and Broad Beans must also be 
made, sowing some of the early Peas when the main crop kinds are com¬ 
menced with, so that there may not be any break in the succession. 
Where the soil is not heavy and the snow has gone Asparagus beds 
may be lightly forked over, and the alleys prepared for planting 
with Cauliflowers. When the requisite quantity of Asparagus roots 
are taken up for forcing a corresponding number of roots should be 
planted annually, deferring the planting, however, until the tops of 
the seedlings are visible, as they succeed best when starting into 
growth. Complete planting out Horseradish. Spinach may be sown 
between the rows of Peas. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Figs .—The earliest forced Pig trees in pots will now have the fruit 
swelling freely, and should be well supplied with liquid manure at a 
temperature of 70° to 75°. Continue the night temperature at G0° to 
65°, and 75° to 85° from sun heat with free ventilation, closing at 80°. 
Syringe the trees twice a day to keep red spider down, also to secure 
a genial condition of the atmosphere. Fig trees permanently planted 
out will, if forcing was commenced as advised, be making rapid growth, 
and will require attention in lemoving all overcrowded shoots and 
stopping those intended to make well-developed spurs for the second 
crop. This thinning and stopping the shoots is highly necessary, as 
t renders the trees more fertile and affords more light and air to the 
swelling or ripening fruit. There must not be any deficiency of 
moisture in the border, supplying weak tepid liquid manure 
abundantly. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—In the earliest house the fruit will shortly 
commence stoning, during which period the temperature must be kept 
as equable as possible, being careful not to unduly excite the trees by 
a too high night temperature, nor give a check by draughts of cold 
air in the daytime. The night temperature may range from 60° to 
65°, and 70° to 75° in the daytime from sun heat. Attend to tying 
the shoots to the trellis as they progress, and syringe twice a day 
with tepid rain water to keep red spider under; and if it appear 
promptly apply an insecticide, for under no circumstances must this 
pest be allowed to remain. Disbudding must be carefully attended 
to in succession houses, removing those shoots that are not required) 
having the leading shoots tied down, taking care not to overcrowd 
them. Thin the fruit gradually, leaving those in sufficient quantity 
that are well exposed to light and air until the final thinning. 
Fumigate the trees upon the first appearance of aphides. 
Melons .—The first batch of Melon plants in houses will now be 
growing well, and should not be stopped until they have advanced 
quite two-thirds of the distance they are intended to be trained. To 
prevent crowding every alternate lateral should be rubbed off. Fruit 
may be expected at the second or third joint on the laterals. When 
the pistillate flowers are expanded fertilise them every day, having 
the soil rather dry at the roots of the plants, and secure a dry atmo¬ 
sphere, continuing this until the fruit commences swelling, then stop 
the shoots one joint above the fruit. To obtain a succession of fruit 
remove all the flowers from some of the plants and stop the laterals 
at the second or third joint, removing every alternate lateral, and 
these will break again and show fruit freely. Do not earth up the 
roots until the fruits are swelling, first giving a thorough soaking of 
water, and moderate amount of soil only will be necessary to grow 
the first batch ; and the crop also must be moderate if the plants are 
intended to carry a second, two or three (at most four) fruits to each 
plant. Maintain a moderately moist atmosphere in bright weather by 
damping available surfaces morning and evening, and a gentle syring¬ 
ing overhead at closing time, which should be as early in the after¬ 
noon as is safe, and so as to raise the temperature to 85° or 90°. 
Ventilate from 75°, but be careful in giving air so as not to lower 
the temperature, nor admit cold currents of air; 70° to 75° should 
be maintained by day artificially, falling 5° on cold nights. 
Cucumbers .—The weather at the commencement of the month was 
very winterly, rendering extra firing necessary to maintain the night 
temperature between 65° and 70°. In the daytime 70° to 75° must 
be secured, and 80° to 85° with sun heat, ventilating from 75° and 
closing at 80°, when the house should be damped and the foliage 
lightly syringed, but the latter only on fine afternoons. On bright 
days the top heat should be turned off for an hour or two at midday 
to lessen the necessity for excessive ventilation. Stop the growths one 
or two joints beyond the fruit. Thin out old foliage and encourage 
fresh shoots, but be careful not to overcrowd them. Water will be 
needed more frequently, and liquid manure occasionally, according to 
the condition of the plants. Those becoming exhausted may be 
restored by removing the surface soil between the roots with a small 
fork, supplying fresh loam previously warmed, following with a 
supply of weak liquid manure at 90°. The cold weather lately ex¬ 
perienced will render it necessary to apply linings to dung-heated 
beds made up a few weeks ago. When the bed is reheated be careful 
to allow the escape of steam, especially when the sun is powerful. 
Add a little more soil as the roots spread over the surface ; water 
carefully, and do not damp the foliage at present. Train and peg 
down the shoots at the joints as they advance. In making up hot¬ 
beds in pits or frames the materials must have been thoroughly in¬ 
corporated and prepared by repeated turnings. For frames choose a 
sheltered situation, but well exposed to the sun. If the situation be wet 
employ a good layer of faggots as a foundation, and have the bed 
not less than 20 or 24 inches wider than the frame on all sides, and 
carry it up about 4 feet above the faggots, treading it well down as 
it is made. The frame may then be placed on. In about a week the 
bed may be levelled, a thin layer of turves being placed grass side 
downwards over the surface, and in the centre of each light raise 
a hillock of soil about 10 inches high and with a flattened top a foot 
across. When the heat in the hillock is from 85° to 90° the] plants 
may be put out. Night coverings will be necessary to maintain a 
suitable night temperature of 65° to 70°. 
MUSHROOM HOUSE. 
Beds made-up in early autumn are now exhausted and should be 
renewed. Fresh materials may be prepared by shaking out the fresh 
horse droppings from the litter with any short material. There is no 
necessity to dry it unless very wet, and then it should be spread on 
the floor of an open airy shed, or thrown into a heap to dispel excess 
of moisture by fermentation, turning it over about twice a week. 
When the excessive moisture is expelled it may be made into the bed, 
treading and beating it as firmly as possible. In a few days the bed 
may be spawned, but if the heat exceeds 90° wait until it declines to 
between 75° and 80°. Make holes at 9 to 12 inches apart every way 
and 2 inches deep, inserting in each a piece of spawn about 2 inches 
square. In a week or ten days cover with 2 inches thickness of rich 
