March 10, 1881. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
199 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (Inquirer). —Miss Pratt’s works are, we think, published by the 
Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge. The “Cottage Gardeners’ 
Dictionary ’’ can be had from this office, price 6.?. 6 d., or post free 7s. 2d. The 
“Horticultural Directory’’ is published annually in the autumn, price 2s. The 
last edition has been long out of print. 
Culture of Sarracenias (Voting Gardener). —You will And the infor¬ 
mation you require in No. 20 of the third series Journal of Horticulture, Novem¬ 
ber 11th, 1880. 
Primulas (J. P. B.). —The dark flower is of good form and substance ; the 
colour is also deep, but brighter and richer flowers are in possession of the 
principal florists who devote special attention to Primulas. The lilac and white 
fimbriated flower is attractive, but not novel; tbe others call for no comment. 
Prolific Cucumber (A J., Lancashire). —The variety is evidently highly 
productive. The portion of growth sent, which is less than 6 inches in length, 
contains three joints and thirteen embryo fruits. Mr. Smeatham also appears 
to grow Cucumbers well. 
Cinerarias (J. II., Sussex). —Some of the colours are particularly bright 
and rich, and most of the flowers are of good size, form, and substance. It is a 
good strain if the plants are of dwarf habit. 
Pelargoniums (T. A /.).—It is impossible for us, as we have many times 
stated, to recommend dealers either in plants or any garden requisites. If you 
write to those who advertise what you want they will no doubt quote special 
prices for large quantities, but it will be necessary for you to state your require¬ 
ments more clearly than in the letter before us. You must state what type of 
Pelargoniums you require, and what class of plants. 
Heating Garden Structures (J. E.). — By a proper arrangement of 
pipes and valves all your houses may be heated safely and efficiently by one 
boiler placed in the position you propose. If you are not practically acquainted 
with heating garden structures you will do wisely to employ someone who is 
competent in this work. With the feed cistern of the boiler on the same level 
with the highest point in the hot-water pipes the circulation will be free, the 
pipes being properly arranged, and all will be perfectly safe. 
Planting Kanunculus (Willesden).— The present is a good time for 
planting, and there should be no unnecessary delay. The soil should be in 
fertile condition, fresh loam being added if needful, which is better than rich 
manure applied at this season of the year. Drills about 5 inches apart should be 
drawn for the tubers, which should be planted 3 inches apart in them, pressing 
them down slightly in sand, and surrounding them with the same material. 
They should not be covered more than 1J inch deep with light soil. 
Vines Unhealthy (H. L.). —The few roots sent are quite insufficient for 
a satisfactory investigation to be made respecting the cause of the unhealthi- 
ness of your Vines. We shall require four times the quantity, especially of the 
ends or fibrous portions, of which you have not sent any. They should also be 
wrapped in damp moss so as to arrive in a fresh state, those before us being 
quite dried and shrivelled. We believe there is some injurious substance in the 
border. As so much time has elapsed since you wrote to us before it will be 
necessary for you to re-state your case by informing us fully on the age of the 
Vines, the conditions under which they are grown, and the nature of the soil 
and state of the border. Owing to the great number of inquiries we receive on 
various subjects from all parts of the kingdom it is impossible that we can keep 
in mind the particulars of each case for several weeks after it was brought 
before us. 
Disbudding Vines (J. M. IS .).—Your sketch shows what we meant, but 
yon must particularly avoid overcrowding of the foliage. The distance named 
is sufficient for Vines in a sound healthy condition ; if very vigorous, and with 
unusually large foliage, the distance between the laterals may be increased. It 
does not follow that each lateral must carry a bunch of Grapes. We had in 
mind the shortness of the rods when we replied to your letter, and to thin out 
the laterals as you propose at once would not result in the thickening of the 
rods so much as is desirable. Commence as we have suggested, which will en¬ 
courage root-action, and another year dispose the laterals according to their 
strength ; but a final distance of 2 feet will with such short rods, we think, be 
ample, but everything depends on the vigour of the Vines and the foliage. If 
you will send us an average sample of the wood and foliage in the autumn we 
will readily advise you further on this subject. 
Raising Camellias and Azaleas from Seed (F. 11'., Isle of Wight).— 
You will not find it profitable to raise plants from seed. When the seed of 
Camellias is saved from single varieties you can only expect singles in return ; 
but if saved from good semi-doubles some double flowers may be expected. The 
time at which the seedlings flower depends entirely on the culture they receive ; 
with your conveniences they would probably be as long as you name or nearly 
so. Cuttings of free-growing varieties make as good stocks as seedlings, but you 
will find it much more profitable to purchase small worked plants than to 
attempt raising stocks and grafting them yourself, as in all probability you 
would only be wasting time by endeavouring to do the work of a skilled pro¬ 
pagator who has proper means at his disposal for carrying out his work success¬ 
fully. We have flowered seedling Azaleas in four years, but had better means of 
growing the plants than are at your disposal ; in fact you do not appear to be in 
position for carrying out your project. 
Abutilons from Seed (Idem). —Plants raised from seed sown in the 
spring usually flower the same season if they are grown in pots under glass. You 
will not be able to preserve the plants if you cannot protect them from frost 
during the winter. 
Ericas (Constant Header). —It is impossible for us to give useful replies to 
correspondents who request us to name good varieties of plants without know¬ 
ing, at least approximately, the number they require. You give us no idea 
whether you want a dozen or fifty. If you will state your wants more precisely 
your letter shall have our attention. 
Primula sinensis fimbriata (R. L. Quinn). —We are unable to decipher 
the most important word in your letter. If you wish to know how to “save ” 
seed you cannot do better than place the plants on a shelf in a greenhouse 
where the atmosphere is dry, and water them as carefully as if they were flower¬ 
ing ; in due time seedpods will form, and when these turn brown they may be 
gathered. Plants that flower late—from the present time onwards—usually seed 
much more freely than those that flower in midwinter, as during the dull 
period of the year the pollen does not become sufficiently dry for dispersion and 
fertilisation. If you desire to know how to “sow” the seed, drain the pots well 
and fill them nearly full of light sifted soil, such as decayed vegetable matter ; 
do not press it firmly ; water it, sprinkle the seed on the surface, cover it very 
slightly, lay a square of glass over the pot, and keep it shaded until germination 
takes place, then admit light and air gradually to promote the healthy growth 
of the seedlings. A heated frame is a good position for raising Primulas during 
the early months of the year. 
Planting Vines (E. A .).—You had better keep the Vines quite cool and 
allow them to break naturally. When they have fairly commenced growing 
turn them out of the pots, removing all the soil from the roots, which spread 
out straight in the form of a fan, covering them 4 or 5 inches deep with fresh 
loam and a free admixture of burnt refuse or wood ashes, and mulch five surface 
with short manure. Immediately after planting give a good watering at a tem¬ 
perature of 120° to settle the soil amongst the roots. Do not force them. A 
night temperature of 50° will be sufficient for three weeks after planting, then 
raising it to 55°. When the Vines are in full growth the night temperature may 
range from 60° to 65°. The day temperature without sun may be 5°, and with 
sun 15° higher than the respective figures, maintaining a moist genial_atmo- 
sphere. Vines so small ought not to bear any fruit this year. 
Plants for Peat Soil (A. C., Bournemouth). —The following have been 
found to thrive well on a peaty sandy soil, but it must be understood that many 
of them are more vigorous and lasting on a good loamy soil. Bulbs. —Crocus in 
variety, Snowdrops, Gladiolus purpureas, G. brenchleyensis, G. gandavensis in 
variety, Narcissuses, Bulbous Irises, Lilium candidum, L. tigrinum, L. auratum, 
Winter Aconites, Erythronium Dens-canis (Dog’s-tooth Violet), Scilla sibirica, 
S. bifolia, S. nutans, Fritillaria meleagris, F. imperialis, FunkiaSieboldi, F. ovata, 
Tritonia aurea, Eucomis punctata, Museari botryoides, and M. monstrosum. Pe¬ 
rennials. —Orchis mascula, O. Morio, O. ustulata, Statice Gmelini, Tritoma Uvaria, 
Anemone Honorine Jobert, A. Pulsatilla, A. appennina, Spiraea filipendula plena, 
Saxifraga granulata, S. granulata plena, S. crassifolia, S. umbrosa, S. paniculata, 
S. aizoides, Stachys lanata, Mimulus cardinalis, Dielytra spectabilis, D. eximea, 
Corydalis nobilis, Foxgloves, Paeonia tenuifolia, Oxalis acetosella, O. Bowiei, 
O. atropurpurea, Iris foetidissima, I. foetidissima variegata, Arabis albida, A. 
albida variegata, Iberis saxatilis, I. comefolia, Campanula carpatica, C. earpatica 
alba, C. rotundifolia, C. pusilla, C. pusilla alba, Salvia patens, S. fulgens. Fuchsia 
globosa, Lathyrus latifolius. Lychnis Flos-Jovis, Veronica prostrata, Tbalictrum 
minus, Isopyrum thalictroides, Aubrietia purpurea. Phlox subulata, Acanthus 
spinosus, Symphytum officinale, Columbines, Cerastium tomentosum, C.alpinum, 
Polygonatum multiflorum (Solomon’s Seal), Gentiana acaulis, Gnaphalium 
arenarium, Hepatica triloba rubra, H. triloba caerulea, Omphalodes verna, 
Sedum spectabile, S. jSieboldi, Stipa pennata, Veratrum nigrum, Vinca major, 
V. minor, and Primroses double and single in variety. Biennials. —Lunaria 
biennis (Honesty), Canterbury Bells, Wallflowers. Annuals. —Collinsia bicolor, 
Omphalodes lin’ifolia, Coreopsis Drummondii, C. tinctoria, Sweet Alyssum, 
Nasturtium (Tom Thumb varieties), Saponaria calabrica, Virginian Stock, 
Helichrysums, Silene pendula, Clarkia pulchella, Brachycome iberidifolia (Swan 
Biver Daisy). All the annuals, with the exception of the Brachycome and Tom 
Thumb Nasturtiums, would make a better display and flower longer if sown the 
last week in August to flower the following year. AVeigela rosea, a dwarf shrub, 
we have known to flower abundantly in a bed composed of peat soil in which 
hardy Azaleas and Rhododendrons were planted. 
Herbaceous Plants for August (J. Ilenshate).— Plants that bloom 
towards the end of August are much more limited than those flowering at mid¬ 
summer, but the following may generally be depended upon to bloom about the 
period you desire :—Anemone japonica var. Honorine Jobert, Pyrethrum uligi- 
nosum, Aster Amellus, A. hyssopifolia, Sedum spectabile (syn.fabarium) Solidago 
lanceolata, S. altissima : these may be had in bloom at the time named and 
through September if they have a favourable position and catch the full sun¬ 
shine. Coreopsis lanceolata—this is usually at its best the end of July if left 
undisturbed in the border ; but if taken up in April and transplanted its bloom¬ 
ing period will be retarded foi ten days or a fortnight. The Pyrethrums and 
Asters above named should not be disturbed at their roots in the spring if wanted 
to bloom at the end of August. Other plants we have usually found to bloom 
at this time are Rudbeckia Newmanii, Echinops ruthenicus, Lathyrus rotundi- 
folius, Fuchsia globosa, Statice Gmelini, Tradescantia virginica. Campanula 
rotundifolia (Harebell), Polygonum Brunonii, P. Sieboldii, iEnothera macro- 
carpa, Lobelia cardinalis, Tritoma Uvaria glauca—the two last-named should have 
a little cocoa-nut fibre or ashes placed around the crowns at the commencement 
of winter for protection. Tritonia aurea, Eucomis punctata—these two are 
bulbous. Veratrum nigrum, Liatris squarrosa, Physalis Alkekengi—the last- 
named is berry-bearing, and has a handsome inflated calyx. One of the finest of 
herbaceous plants is Delphinium formosum, usually in bloom at midsummer, but 
may be had in bloom the end of August by cutting down the leading shoots 
about the'middle of May ; other shoots will spring up, and these will be found 
of great service in August and September. The herbaceous Phloxes, too, must 
not be overlooked, a great number of varieties being now in commerce, as they 
are amongst the very finest of plants for the herbaceous border to bloom at the 
time named. These like a deep rich soil, and are greatly benefited by some 
well-decayed manure being forked in about their roots in the spring, and after a 
few years when the stools are too large they should be taken up and dividod. 
Name of Conifer (Young Gardener). —Taxodium sempervirens. 
Names of Plants (Arthur Paine). —Physalis Alkekengi. ( Worksop). —The 
Primula is a very good one, the flowers being not only largo, but of excellent 
shape. No. 4, Asplenium viviparum. The other specimens were not only 
