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Much 17,1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 205 
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Royal Society at 4.30 p.m. Linneau Society at 8 p.m. 
3rd Sunday in Lent. 
Royal Horticultural Society—Fruit and Floral Committees at 
Society of Arts at 8 p.m. [11 a.m. 
GROWING MELONS IN COLD FRAMES. 
treating of Melon culture in cold frames or 
cool houses I do not wish to disparage hot- 
water-heated structures and pits or frames 
warmed by fermenting materials, for I grow 
Melons in them every season. By such means 
fruit is obtained at earlier and later periods, and 
with greater certainty in summer ; but there is no 
reason why Melons should not be satisfactorily grown 
in cold frames. This I have proved for ten consecutive 
years, and though the crop was not equally good each 
year, there has not been what could be termed a failure. The 
fruits were sent in to table with those grown in artificial heat, 
and, what is of more consequence, the varieties were the same ; 
indeed, they were the choicest named varieties, and a great 
number of seedlings, not one inferior to any in commerce. 
All depends on the treatment; therefore any variety will succeed 
under this mode of culture, a good Melon being as easy to 
grow as a bad one. 
The seed is sown at the beginning of April in turfy loam 
rubbed fine, three parts filling the pots, and pressing the soil 
down gently. The seed is covered half an inch deep, and the 
pots placed in a hotbed in which Cucumbers or Melons are 
growing. When the seedlings appear the pots are raised on 
inverted pots so as to have them near the glass, for it is im¬ 
portant that the young plants be kept sturdy. When the seed 
leaves are formed pot-off singly in 3-inch pots and return to 
the hotbed, shading from bright sun until established. Water 
must be carefully afforded to keep the soil moist. The tem¬ 
perature of the hotbed must be 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 
85° by day, according as sun heat may affect the day tempera¬ 
ture. Two things are important—the plants must not be given 
bottom heat, and they must be kept near the glass. Pinch the 
point out of each plant at the second rough leaf if intended 
for frames, but if intended for trelliswork allow them to grow, 
securing the growths to a small stick, and rub off the laterals 
as they show until stems are secured that will reach from the 
soil to the trellis. Shift the plants when the pots are filled 
with roots into 5-inch pots, render the soil firm, and return to 
the hotbed. The plants must not be allowed to root into the 
bed, but should be placed on slates or inverted pots to prevent 
this. Two or more shoots will result from the stopping, and 
should be reduced to four if more than that number ; and if 
but two shoots start stop those at the second leaf, and when 
the new breaks are produced reduce them to four, as that 
number will be required— i.e., two for training to the front, 
and two to the back of the frame. 
By the middle of May the plants will be strong and the 
frames at liberty, having probably been occupied with bedding 
plants, winter Lettuces, forced Potatoes, or Violets. The pits 
must face south, be well exposed to light, and have shelter 
from the north. Their depth from the glass to the soil may 
be from 12 to 15 inches. Ours are lean-to pits, and frames 
both lean-to and span about 4 feet wide, used for Lettuces and 
Violets through the winter. If the depth be more, material 
should be placed in to bring the surface of the soil up to the 
required height, about 10 inches depth of soil being necessary, 
and that need only be ordinary garden soil, preferably rather 
strong. The soil is scooped out in the centre of the frames 
lengthwise to the depth of a foot in the middle, forming a 
concavity, and this is filled with any short littery dung and 
leaves in a partially reduced state that may be at hand. It is 
trodden down and covered with about G inches depth of soil, 
which is also rendered firm. The lights are placed on and 
kept closed for three days or a week. In that time the sun 
will have warmed the soil, and the plants may be placed out 
one in the centre of each light, the soil being well firmed about 
the balls, giving a good supply of water at a temperature of 
90°, and extending a foot from the plant all around. Water 
them very carefully afterwards for some time. 
In after management it is necessary to afford a protection 
of mats or other covering at night up to the middle of June, 
putting them on about 5.30 p.m., and withdrawing them about 
7 a.m. unless there is frost, when they may be allowed to 
remain an hour later. Commence ventilating from 75°, and 
allow the temperature to range from 80° to 85°, and close at 
75° to 80°, but not so early as to cause a rise above 90°. At 
closing time a sprinkling of water at 90° over the surface of 
the bed from a rose watering pot will be an advantage, being 
careful to keep it from the collar of the plants, and to employ 
it only on bright afternoons. Attention must be given in 
training the shoots, taking two to the back and the same num¬ 
ber to the front at regular distances, securing them with pegs 
if necessary, but only for a time, as the pegs cause water to 
lodge, and this induces decay of the stems. Rub off all laterals 
to within 6 inches of the stem, and remove every alternate 
lateral on the shoots. This is necessary to prevent overcrowd¬ 
ing. Stop the shoots 9 inches from the sides of the frame or 
pit. The laterals will show flowers at the second or third 
joint or both, and when these are beginning to open the sprink¬ 
lings must be discontinued, leaving the lights open about 
half an inch constantly at night, ventilating freely in the 
daytime when circumstances admit. Fertilise the pistillate 
flowers on a fine day, taking care to apply the pollen to the 
stigmas. Continue this treatment daily until the requisite 
number of fruit is set, which should not be more than four to 
each plant ; and if the frames are only 4 feet wide, two are 
sufficient to insure fine fruits. When the fruits are swelling 
freely a good watering should be given at 90 , and every week 
for the following six weeks, regulating the supply by the 
weather, for, if very hot, water will be required twice a week. 
Damp overhead every fine afternoon at closing time. A entilate 
at 75°, keeping the day temperature between that and 85°, and 
close sufficiently early to secure an advance to 85° or 90°. 
When indications of ripening are observed, which may be 
expected in fifty to sixty days from impregnating the flowers, 
cease watering, omit the sprinklings, and ventilate a little 
above 70° so as to dispel moisture early in the day, allowing 
the temperature to rise to 85° or 90°, and if the weather bo 
Ho. 38.— Yol. ii., third Series. 
Ho. 1634.—Yol. LXV., Old Series. 
