446 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 2, 1881. 
Horticultural Society. It ha9 been long known to botanists, but 
has only been in cultivation about ten years, though it was 
originally discovered in the Rocky Mountains as early as 1822. 
Visitors to the Royal Gardens, Kew, have, however, for some time 
been annually attracted by a specimen in the herbaceous ground, 
where it flowers most profusely in a sheltered position near a wall. 
A plant is also included in the Royal Botanic Society’s Garden, 
Regent’s Park, and it is now represented in several other large 
public collections. 
The flowers are individually of short duration, but they are 
produced so freely that a display is maintained for a consider¬ 
able time during April or May. The petals are pure white, large, 
rounded and spreading, the flowers frequently exceeding 2 inches 
in diameter. The fruit resembles a large Blackberry, and possesses 
a pleasant flavour when fully ripe. This Rubus usually attains a 
height of 3 or 4 feet, at least we have not seen any exceed the 
latter. It is compact in habit, with rather small neatly cut 
leaves, and the disposition of the flowers on the young shoots 
imparts a very graceful appearance to the shrub when it is in 
good condition. The accompanying engraving faithfully repre¬ 
sents flowering sprays from a plant grown by Messrs. C. Lee and 
Son at Hounslow. 
SAWDUST FOR RHODODENDRONS. 
When I was at Mentone, about six weeks since, Dr. Bennet 
showed me some Rhododendrons, as a curiosity, growing in his 
garden in the Maritime Alps. He informed me that the peat in 
■which they were growing had cost him £20 to obtain by rail 
from, I think he said, Milan. I gave him the description of the 
Rhododendrons in the garden of the late Mr. Cuthbert Johnson at 
Croydon, growing entirely in sawdust. It must have been fifteen 
or sixteen years since I first saw this experiment. The Rhododen¬ 
drons were then growing luxuriantly in a large bed of pure saw¬ 
dust. As I was interested in this mode I again called ten years 
afterwards, and Mr. Johnson again showed me the result. He 
said, “You see on the right that large bed of Rhododendrons 
with leaves growing with great vigour, but there is not a single 
flower ; on the left you see the plants covered with flowers, and 
of a large size. Those on the right are growing in oak sawdust; 
those on the left in deal sawdust.” If I am not right I must be 
corrected by the Editor of this Journal, who is well acquainted 
with these experiments. Turpentine might probably be so pre¬ 
pared as to prove a valuable manure in the formation of the 
flowers of many plants. Dr. Bennet said he should immediately 
profit by my information, as there was an abundance of deal saw¬ 
dust in Mentone.— Philodendron. 
WQRK.fQi-ItheWEEK. . 
KITCHEN HARDEN. 
The latest sowing of main and late crop Peas must not longer be 
delayed, any sown after this should be early varieties. The weather 
recently has been so dry as to necessitate watering and mulching 
rows of early Peas. The latter prevents evaporation and heavy 
soil from cracking. If Broad Beans are required very late a 
sowing may be made of the Longpod varieties, Monarch being 
suitable. If requisite another sowing of Runner Beans should be 
made. Make another sowing of Dwarf Kidney or French Beans, 
giving preference to such varieties as Canadian Wonder, Liver- 
coloured, and the Negro-Longpod. Root crops, indeed all crops, are 
much later than usual, but attention must be given to thinning before 
the plants become large and crowded. Button Onions are generally 
wanted in large quantities ; the thinnings of Onions replanted thickly 
into drills will give the requisite supply of such without interfering 
with the supply of spring Onions. In thinning Carrots many more 
should be left than will ultimately be required, so as to allow of 
every alternate one being drawn in a young state. Parsnips should 
be finally thinned to 9 inches or 12 inches apart; Chicory and Beet 
to a similar distance. Salsafy and Scorzonera may be left 6 inches 
asunder, and Leeks in beds the same distance, every alternate one 
being drawn in a young state for soups. Early-sown Leeks which 
are large enough for planting may, where they are wanted of a 
large size, be placed in trenches prepared as for Celery, and be well 
supplied with water and liquid manure in dry weather. Celery 
plants in an advanced state should be placed in trenches, single rows 
being preferable, except for the early crops. In the preparation of 
the trenches a plentiful supply of decayed manure is requisite, which 
should be dug-in when moist. Late-sown plants can be pricked 
off in prepared beds of rich compost, shaded until established, and 
well supplied with water. Advanced crops of Cauliflowers, Brussels 
Sprouts, and Savoys may be planted out as ground becomes vacant. 
See that there is not any neglect in sowing Spinach, Radishes, 
Lettuce, and Turnips, also make frequent sowings of Mustard and 
Cress. Tender herbs such as Sweet Basil, Sweet Marjoram, Summer 
Savory if gradually prepared may be planted on warm borders, and 
Capsicums in a row about a foot from the base of a south wall. 
Yegetable Marrows require a sheltered position fully exposed to the 
sun, where plentiful supplies of water can readily be given in dry 
weather. If handglasses can be afforded for a short period it will be 
an advantage. Ridge and Gherkin Cucumbers should have similar 
treatment. At all seasonable times keep the surface soil well stirred 
about all growing crops. Well ventilate frames containing late crops 
of French Beans. 
Tomatoes .—Plants of these that have been well hardened off may 
be planted against walls. Take out the soil and fill up with a com¬ 
post of two parts strong loam and one part decomposed manure, 
mulching with 2 or 3 inches thickness of the latter, and well supply 
the plants with water. Train with one stem and remove all laterals. 
In a favourable season Tomatoes do fairly well in the open in rows 
3 feet apart, and the plants about 30 inches asunder, securing the 
growths as they advance to stakes about 3 feet above ground. In the 
southern and midland counties the earliest fruits ripen moderately 
well, and the small fruits are cut in autumn and ripened in glass 
structures. The fruit under such conditions does not attain the 
colour and flavour of that ripened under more favourable conditions. 
The chief supply should whenever practicable be obtained under 
glass, yet that grown outdoors is found a useful auxiliary. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Thinning late Grapes should not be delayed, as they swell 
so rapidly at this season that they soon become too large to be 
thinned expeditiously. Those Vines that were not started early will 
only now be in flower and must have every attention. Varieties that 
do not set their fruit well, such as Lady Downe’s, West’s St. Peter’s, 
&c., should have a constant circulation of dry warm air, and a tem¬ 
perature of 80° to 85° by day, and 70° at night. When watering is 
necessary let it be done thoroughly. To crops in the process of 
swelling off a little guano sprinkled over the surface of the border 
previous to watering will be beneficial, and a mulching of short 
manure after a good watering will help to keep the border moist and 
lessen the necessity for its repetition. Maintain a sweet atmosphere 
in all houses w’here fruit is swelling ; and although fires cannot be 
dispensed with at night, much may be done to economise fuel by 
closing the house early with plenty of moisture on fine afternoons. 
Where Grapes are ripening a constant circulation of air must be 
secured, otherwise good colour and finish can hardly be expected. 
Early Vines which have been cleared of fruit should be copiously 
syringed with tepid water to cleanse the foliage of dust and red 
spider; and if the foliage is good keep the laterals in check by pinch¬ 
ing, but if the Vines are weak allow a moderate extension. Do not 
neglect the borders, but keep them moist and mulched so as to secure 
the proper development of the fruiting buds for next season. Mus¬ 
cats completing the stoning process must be watched in bright 
weather, and if scalding of the berries commences admit air abun¬ 
dantly for a fortnight, when all danger wdllbe past. In houses where 
the Grapes are ripe keep the Vines free from lateral growths, and the 
atmosphere as cool and as dry as is consistent with the maintenance 
of the foliage in good condition. Vines in pots should have the lead¬ 
ing shoots stopped when about 8 feet long, and have the laterals and 
sub-laterals pinched at one joint as produced, especially those in¬ 
tended for fruiting next season. 
Cucumbers .—This may be said to be the height of the season alike 
for a good supply of fruit and for red spider with other insect pests. 
