492 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 16, 1881. 
it moderately firm. The top-dressing must not exceed 3 inches in 
depth. The temperature through the winter should be kept at 
40° to 45^ on account of the plants, or if there are no plants 
merely exclude frost. We have then a clean house and Vines, and 
everything ready for a fresh start when the time comes, instead 
of house and Vines being dirty until the very last moment before 
starting. 
In March of the second year depress the canes, bringing them 
well down so as to form an angle of at least 45° with the upright 
stem to the trellis, and keep them there, and damped two or 
three times a day until all the eyes have broken and the 
growths are about a couple of inches long, when the canes may 
be secured to the trellis. The shoot from the uppermost bud 
should be trained as leader, and treated precisely as the one of the 
previous year ; and, as it will probably show fruit, do not allow 
it to remain. The side shoots on the rod (for it is one now) 
should be disbudded, leaving one growth say to the right at the 
bottom of the trellis, another on the same side at as near 18 inches 
above it as possible, and a third on the same side as near the 
leader as may be practicable. On the other side of the rod retain 
a shoot at 9 inches from the bottom and another 18 inches higher 
up, so that there will be five side growths and the leading shoot 
or cane. Remove all the others. 
Upon each of the side shoots a bunch of fruit may be allowed, 
for with the leader allowed to extend roots will be plentiful and 
able to cater for the crop, provided food is supplied by watering. 
Stop the shoots at about 2 feet, which is half the distance 
between the Vines, and the laterals stop at the first leaf for the 
two first leaves next the rod, but the others may be allowed to 
make three or more leaves before pinching out their points. The 
future stopping must be regulated by the space, allowing no more 
foliage as regards the bearing part of the Vine than can be fully 
exposed to light. These side shoots will need at the winter 
pruning to be cut back to two buds, and are then spurs ; the 
leading shoot or cane be shortened back as in the preceding 
season, but may be left a little longer, say 4 feet 6 inches, and 
afterwards subjected to the same treatment as the part below. In 
this manner the Vines will ultimately have rods w T ith spurs or 
shoots, according to the time of year, on both sides at 18 inches 
distance apart, and their treatment as regards stopping will be 
the same as for the first-formed side shoots. The only difference 
will be that two instead of one shoot will be originated from each, 
one of which only must be retained, the other being rubbed off so 
soon as the best show of fruit is discernible.—G. Abbey. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cutting Asparagus should not be continued longer than is 
absolutely necessary, as it is very important that the plants have 
sufficient time to make good growth and allow the buds for the 
ensuing season’s supply to become matured. Abundant supplies of 
liquid manure may be given, and in exposed situations it is advisable 
to secure the stems to stakes a few feet distance apart and connected 
by tarred string. Seakale must be kept from seeding, and if the 
crowns are very much crowded thin them so as to leave two or three 
to each strong root. Liquid manure will assist the growth, similar 
remarks applying to Rhubarb. Peas should be copiously watered. 
When the plants in later crops are too numerous thin them out to 
about 2 inches apart. These may be well mulched with litter or 
manure and staked as soon as fit. Early Peas may yet be sown. 
Afford water abundantly to Scarlet Runners, and see that they are 
mulched with littery manure. Earth up the earliest Celery, plant out 
for succession, prick out young plants from beds for late supplies, and 
prepare trenches, the space between them being appropriated for 
Lettuce or summer Spinach. Take advantage of favourable weather 
to plant out Cauliflowers, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, and Broccoli as 
ground becomes vacant. Maintain successional supplies of Turnips 
by occasional sowings as required, also Radishes and Lettuces. Sow 
Endive for early use ; the Round-leaved Batavian and Green Curled 
are the best. Those earlier sown should be attended to in trans¬ 
planting before they become too large. Sow Rosette Colewort, prick 
off the seedlings when large enough, and eventually plant 15 inches 
apart every way. This is very valuable for winter use. Sowings of 
French Beans may still be made as necessary. Globe Artichokes 
in bearing, also those planted in spring for autumn supply, will 
require abundance of water to prolong the bearing season, vege¬ 
table Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers must now be earthed up, pegging 
the shoots at equal distances apart over the surface of the ground, 
the glasses or other covering being removed or the handlights raised. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Melons .—Sowings may still be made according to the requirements 
of the establishment; and for frames and dung-heated pits a sowing 
now will, under favourable conditions, produce plants that will yield 
a supply of ripe fruit towards the close of September. Those having 
light well-heated houses may continue sowing until the middle of 
July in order to maintain the supply up to November. A good bottom 
heat should be secured to young plants about to be turned out, and 
this will lessen the necessity for fire heat, of which only a little by 
night will be required. Remove laterals freely where the fruits are 
fast swelling, and afford support to such as are becoming heavy. 
Maintain a temperature by artificial means of 70° to 75°, affording 
water or liquid manure abundantly to those with fruit swelling off. 
Maintain a moist atmosphere, syringing the foliage moderately at 
closing time; shade only to prevent flagging. In pits and frames 
with the fruit coming in afford the full benefit of the sun, with a free 
admission of air and very little water. Continue attention to in¬ 
structions in previous calendars with respect to fertilising the flowers, 
also bestowing liberal attention in stopping, training, thinning, and 
earthing-up after the fruits have set. 
Vines .—Cold nights still necessitate the use of fires, but they must 
be extinguished early on fine mornings, when ventilation will require 
careful attention, admitting air at the top of the house, gradually 
increasing the supply as the sun gains power ; and when the maximum 
temperature has been reached the front ventilators may be opened, 
but cold draughts or sudden depressions of temperature must be 
carefully guarded against. Copious supplies of tepid water will be 
needed by inside and outside borders ; liberal mulchings in dry seasons 
also encourage surface-rooting. Proceed with thinning late Grapes, 
and maintain abundant moisture to assist the swelling and prevent 
the attacks of red spider. Keep laterals well stopped after the space 
is covered with foliage. Newly planted Vines which are growing 
freely must be encouraged to make as many branches as possible 
by closing the house early, syringing freely on fine afternoons, and 
keeping the surface of the border moist. 
Cucumbers .—Fire heat as yet cannot be dispensed with at night. 
Examine the plants weekly, well thinning out the old growths, and 
afford copious supplies of liquid manure twice a week. Syringe at 
closing time, but avoid morning syringing, maintaining, however, a 
moist atmosphere all day in bright weather to secure a healthy and 
fruitful growth. Pits and frames should be watered and closed 
about 4 p.m., or earlier, according to the weather, affording liquid 
manure occasionally. 
ORCHARD HOUSE. 
Insects are now troublesome, and in order to prevent them spread¬ 
ing syringe the trees every afternoon with the garden engine. It is 
important that this be done sufficiently early to allow the foliage to 
become dry before nightfall. If the syringe fails to keep the aphides 
in check recourse must be had to fumigation. The shoots of the 
Cherry trees infested with black aphides should be dipped in tobacco 
water, and whilst wet rubbed gently with the fingers, as the insects 
have the property of throwing off the water, syringing well the 
following morning. Syringing with clear water will mostly be suffi¬ 
cient to prevent the increase of red spider; but if not, syringe with 
nicotine soap at the rate of 3 ozs. to a gallon of water. Attend to 
the requirements of the trees in stopping and removing superfluous 
growths. Afford water, and if necessary liquid manure abundantly, 
surface-dressing with rich material. During warm weather the ven¬ 
tilators may be allowed to remain open at night, taking care to close 
them on cold nights, especially when high winds prevail. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Roses are growing freely at last, and should be examined frequently 
WORKJWheWEEK. 
