JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 23, 1881. ] 
513 
called the front, though the entrance is not there. The space is 
rather limited owing to a hill a short distance and an intervening 
stream. The hill is abundantly clothed with splendid timber, and 
the stream was treated by the master hand of “ Capability ” Brown, 
which is saying enough to convince most people it was made the 
most of. So far, then, I think the main features cannot be im¬ 
proved, but there are details in the arrangements between the 
stream and the house which do not satisfy everybody, including 
the noble proprietor and a much smaller individual who has the 
honour of being employed by the said noble proprietor to grow 
his Cabbages and Geraniums. The smaller individual recommends 
a clean sweep of flower beds and gravel walks on that side in 
order to show as much greensward as possible, broken here and 
there by suitable trees and shrubs. This, he maintains, would 
apparently give more space and add dignity to the two noble 
features already mentioned — the timber-covered hill and the 
winding stream. And what do you think was proposed by a 
great professor of landscape gardening, who was entertained by 
the proprietor a whole week that he might become familiar with 
the peculiarities of the place ? The ground was surveyed, and a 
very elaborate plan was prepared containing magnificent temples, 
statuary, balustrades, terraces, and geometrical flower beds—all 
very beautiful no doubt, and possibly in harmony with the style of 
the mansion, but totally disregarding all the beautiful natural 
features of the place, and which could easily have been planned 
in London or elsewhere with no other help than a photograph of 
the house. 
I believe, and I shall be glad to be corrected if wrong, that a 
geometrical garden is not suitable to have near a mansion which 
stands on the lower part of undulating ground, and that when¬ 
ever any kind of formal decoration is used in such grounds it 
should be quite enclosed, so that it can be enjoyed by those w r ho 
like it without being a blot on an otherwise beautiful landscape. 
On the other hand, when a mansion stands on high ground there 
is no difficulty in having as much formality as anyone can desire 
without spoiling the picture in the least, if it is handled by a real 
artist in the profession.—W m. Taylor. 
UNHEATED HOUSES FOE FRUIT. 
“ A Surrey Physician ” at the close of his excellent article 
on page 480, suggests that cheap structures might be erected with 
the object of rendering fruit culture under glass remunerative. 
There is no doubt that this may be accomplished with a fair 
amount of success in the southern counties and in sheltered 
localities ; but the erection of unheated structures on high 
elevations in the colder districts of this country would probably 
end in considerable disappointment. These deductions are arrived 
at not by reasoning alone, but by observation. I have seen in 
Messrs. Rivers’ establishment at Sawbridgeworth large cheaply- 
erected houses—mere sheds covered with glass—and they were 
sufficient for insuring valuable crops of fruit of Peaches, Nec¬ 
tarines, Cherries, Pears, and Grapes. There can be little doubt 
that those houses have answered the purpose as well as if the 
cost of erection had been five times greater, and they must have 
proved highly remunerative. What has been done in Mr. Rivers’ 
nursery in Hertfordshire may, it is reasonable to suppose, be ac¬ 
complished in other places equally well situated ; but it is another 
thing to apply the same system to much colder, higher, and more 
exposed positions in the northern counties. Large structures 
have been erected in Yorkshire for the purpose of insuring crops 
of Peaches and Nectarines without the aid of artificial heat, and 
after years of failure boilers and hot-water pipes have been found 
an absolute necessity. The system suggested by your correspon¬ 
dent is no doubt quite practicable in the county in which he 
resides, as well as in many others ; but as the Journal circulates 
widely, it appears to be necessary to suggest to those less favour¬ 
ably situated to act cautiously in incurring the expense of erect¬ 
ing glass structures, unless they are also prepared to afford the 
means of excluding frost from them, for otherwise they will almost 
certainly invite disappointment instead of reaping a reward.—• 
A Traveller. 
NOTES FOE AMATEURS. 
The following notes will be found of advantage by many 
amateurs, as at the present time there are numerous operations 
requiring immediate attention. 
Stopping Plants. —Amateurs often contrast their tall slender 
specimens of many kinds of plants with the compact bushy speci¬ 
mens grown by professional gardeners. The mystery is easily 
explained : Few plants are naturally bushy in habit, the ma¬ 
jority requiring to be either frequently pruned or pinched back. 
The former operation is performed after resting the plants and 
ripening their growth, and usually just prior to their being started 
afresh. The pruning alone is not sufficient to make good speci¬ 
mens, but to properly balance the growth all those shoots inclined 
to outgrow the remainder must be freely pinched back. From 
these will result a greater number of less vigorous growths, and 
in addition to this the stopping will encourage the growth of those 
weaker unstopped shoots which would otherwise be overgrown. 
These remarks are especially applicable to Pelargoniums cf all 
kinds, Fuchsias, Eupatoriums, Solanums, Lemon-scented Ver¬ 
benas, Bouvardias, Sparmannias, Veronicas, Plumbagos, of green¬ 
house plants ; and among stove plants to Gardenias, Vincas, As- 
clepiases, Bougainvilleas, Eranthemums, Justicias, Centropogons, 
and a few others. The finger and thumb must, if good plants 
are desired, be also freely used in the case of numbers of spring- 
struck plants such as Salvias, Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Coleuses, 
Heliotropes, Begonias (tuberous-rooted kinds excepted), Crotons, 
and any young plants of the above-mentioned kinds. Pinching- 
back, however, must not be practised for too long a period, 
especially if sufficient root room to support a large head cannot 
be given. As a rule a well-balanced head consisting of a few 
strong shoots give the best results, and it is even advisable to 
completely remove much of the inner weakly growth. Another 
and very frequent cause of tall slender growth is the habit many 
have of indiscriminately crowding their plants, forgetting or 
being perhaps unaware that a few well-grown plants give much the 
better results. 
To properly prepare for winter flowering, and also to give room 
for the development of Begonias, Gloxinias, Coleuses, Balsams, 
Fuchsias, and Cockscombs, it is advisable to plunge or stand the 
following in a warm position outside. Solanums, Eupatoriums, 
Sparmannias, Zonal Pelargoniums, Browallia elata, Salvias, Car¬ 
nations, Roses, Spiraeas, Deutzias (these should not have a very 
hot position), and Callas. 
Balsams. —These, if creditable specimens are required, should 
not be allowed to become root-bound in the earlier stages of growth, 
and should also be grown as near the glass as possible. They 
succeed admirably in a frame on a partially spent hotbed, syring¬ 
ing to keep down red spider, and closing about 4 P.M. Plants in 
4-inch pots or of less size may be shifted into either 8 or 10-inch 
sizes, potting deeply up to the first side shoots if possible, and 
these will then emit roots at their base. A rough rich loamy soil 
suits them, and a liberal top-dressing of manure should be given 
later on. The side shoots may be lightly tied down to short stakes 
inserted round the sides of the pots, and it is advisable to remove 
the first few blooms. Balsams when well established require 
abundance of water at the roots, and are much benefited by occa¬ 
sional supplies of liquid manure. Sturdy floriferous plants are 
often exhibited by cottagers which are grown entirely outside. 
Seed may still be sown. 
Cockscombs. —These also succeed admirably in frames with a 
little bottom heat, or they may be grown on shelves near the 
glass, but they are seldom grown to a good size in a cool house. 
The seedlings should be shifted into 5-inch pots, and from these 
again into 10-inch pots, but the final potting should be delayed 
till the head is forming, when the best may be selected. A rich 
and rather light loamy soil will suit them well, and they may be 
potted deeply, thereby reducing their heights, and the stems will 
emit roots freely. 
Browallia elata. —This pretty blue-flowering plant is most 
easily grown, and may be had in bloom either in the autumn or 
during the winter if the house can be kept slightly above the 
ordinary greenhouse temperature. Prick out the seedlings into 
small pots, and when well established pinch out their heads, and 
when breaking afresh shift into 6-inch pots. Any rather rich soil 
will suit them, and during the summer they should be placed 
outside, be pinched back till a good head is formed, and be 
regularly supplied with water. For late flowering, seed may yet 
be sown. 
Chrysanthemums. —If these have not received their final 
potting let them be shifted into 9 to 12-inch pots at once ; to 
the rich loamy soil may be added a sprinkling of soot, pounded 
oyster shells, or crushed bones. When potting allow space for a 
good top-dressing later on. The plants are best grown in a sunny 
open position and not plunged. Some of the best blooms are ob¬ 
tained from plants grown in a single row along the kitchen garden 
paths. They require much water in these positions, but the growth 
made is of a superior character. Those intended to form dwarf 
specimens must be kept stopped and trained. The finest blooms 
are obtained from plants grown with a single stem, these being 
staked and allowed to grow freely,.and either stopped when 2 or 
8 feet high, or allowed to grow to their natural height, when they 
will produce three shoots, the number aimed at in either instance 
