JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June SO, 1881. ] 
537 
jaws extended so as to seize anything they may be inclined to 
attack. The Cheyleti lead a wandering life, hunting up other 
mites that are feeding in parties, amongst whom one of these 
makes itself quite at home, destroying speedily a goodly number, 
for it only sucks the juices of its prey. It was found to be quite 
impossible to keep several Cheyleti together in a box, as combats 
took place at once and continued until but one survived. A very 
pretty mite under the microscope is Glycipbagus plumiger, with 
circlets of radiating hairs ; it hides in walls, especially those that 
are damp. The food is at present unknown. 
There has been recently much discussion concerning the 
influence of electricity upon vegetation, more particularly in 
reference to its power of inducing rapid growth or increasing 
Fig. 122.—Watermite (Hydraclma) Fig. 123.—Larva of Hydrachna 
magnified. magnified. 
productiveness. It has also been supposed by some who call 
themselves men of science that electricity, rightly managed, could 
produce both animals and plants. By the constant operation of 
an electric current upon a stone moistened with an acid solution, 
an experimenter in this line several years ago succeeded as he 
thought in creating some new mites, one of which became the 
subject of much comment under its name of Acarus horridus. 
But this “ horrid ” creature, it was ere long discovered, was no 
novelty at all, it was merely a Tyroglyphus, the portrait of which 
the artist had somewhat improved !—J. B. S. C. 
0] 
m 
/ 
© WORK/oatheWEEK.. ; 
KITCHEN 1 GARDEN. 
A GOOD breadth of Parsley may now be sown, and where it is much 
in request during winter some should be sown in a pit to be covered 
with glass when cold weather commences. Plants from previous 
sowings must be thinned to about a foot distance. A good sowing 
of Turnips should be made for autumn and early winter use. Early 
Stone or Six Weeks, Yeitch’s Bed Globe, and Orange Jelly are suitable 
varieties. Where young Carrots are much required the Early Horn 
section may yet be sown, and will come in useful for late use. 
Another sowing of French Beans may be made if desirable on a warm 
border ; also Peas of the earlier varieties. The earliest crops of Peas 
will soon be over, and the ground being forked over no unnecessary 
delay should elapse in occupying it with Broccoli and such vege¬ 
tables as are most in request for winter. A liberal sowing of Lettuce 
must be made from the 10th to the 14th of next month, giving pre¬ 
ference to the Cos varieties, such as Hicks’ Hardy White, Brown 
Cos, and Bath or Brown Sugarloaf, as many of these plants will 
be required fer lifting into frames or elsewhere for late autumn. 
About the same time the main crop of Endive can be sown, Bound¬ 
leaved Batavian, Green Curled, and Picpus being suitable. Leeks 
should be planted out in well-manured trenches and liberally supplied 
with water in dry weather. Afford copious supplies of water and 
liquid manure to Celeiy, earthing up the earliest crop, and planting 
out for succession. As the gathering of succeeding crops of Peas is 
completed the ground can be utilised for late Celery, not omitting 
a large breadth of that excellent little Cabbage Bosette Colewort. 
A reservation must be made of ground for Winter Spinach. No time 
should be lost in placing out Cauliflower plants to produce heads for 
autumn use, also the autumn and early winter Broccoli—such as 
Yeitch’s Protecting and Snow’s Winter—affording a good and pre¬ 
ferably a sheltered situation. Preparation will soon have to be made 
for sowing the Tripoli section of Onions. The superiority of these for 
early summer use being well known, it is only necessary to note the 
fact, so that due consideration may be given this important crop. 
Ground that has been occupied with spring-planted Cauliflowers will 
he cleared in time to be followed by Tripoli Onions. Take up 
Shallots as soon as they indicate ripeness, and store them in bunches 
or otherwise. Keep down weeds, and ply the hoe freely in favourable 
weather between the rows of growing crops that are not mulched. 
Attend to nailing and tying up Tomatoes as they advance in growth, 
removing all side shoots when the requisite number of fruiting shoots 
are obtained. Train, thin out, and stop ridge and Gherkin Cucumbers, 
and do not allow those or Vegetable Marrows to have insufficient 
water. 
STRAWBERRIES FOR FORCING. 
F or forcing, whether early or late, the runners cannot be layered 
too soon. Layer them into the pots the plants are intended to fruit 
in, or into 3-inch pots, and when well rooted detach them and transfer 
them to the large size. We prefer the latter method as most conve¬ 
nient, the pots not being crocked but filled firmly with turfy loam 
chopped moderately small, adding about a sixth of well-decayed 
manure and a twentieth part of bone meal or Clay’s fertiliser. A 
row of pots is half plunged in every alternate space between the rows 
of plants that were placed out early the previous season to afford 
strong runners. A small hollow is made in the centre of each pot, 
and the runner introduced and securely pegged in position. By 
having the pots in alternate rows sufficient runners are obtained from 
the two rows on each side to occupy the pots arranged closely together, 
and the watering is rendered easy, and gathering the fruit is prac¬ 
ticable without disturbing the pots. It is important that runners be 
layered from fruitful plants. Water as necessary to facilitate root¬ 
ing. After trying most kinds we find La Grosse Sucrde, Yicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury, and Keens’ Seedling the best, as named for early 
forcing, President for succession, James Yeitch for size ; Sir Charles 
Napier, Dr. Hogg, British Queen, and Cockscomb being excellent for 
late forcing. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Late Grapes, particularly those that have to hang during the 
winter months, will require more thinning than those for autumn 
use, otherwise they will not keep in good condition. The laterals 
should not be allowed undue extension, except where there is suffi¬ 
cient space to avoid interfering with the principal foliage. Yines 
bearing Grapes that are swelling must have liberal supplies of water 
or liquid manure, both for inside and outside borders. Maintain a 
moist genial atmosphere by damping the surface of the border or the 
mulching material; also damping available surfaces at closing time 
with guano water. High and dry borders do not as a rule in seasons 
like the present receive sufficient water, as healthy Yines in active 
growth require a very large amount, provided the drainage is good. 
Yentilate freely with a temperature of 70° to 75° by day artificially 
where Grapes are colouring, and 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat, 
employing sufficient fire at night to prevent the temperature falling 
below G5°, as Grapes ripened in a low temperature do not keep well, 
and are not so highly flavoured as those ripened in a brisk heat. 
Early Vines from which the Grapes are cut may be syringed every 
evening, in order to preserve the foliage as long as possible, and 
allow a moderate extension of the laterals, for if the Yines are per¬ 
mitted to rest too soon second growth will commence. Keep the 
border fairly moist, and allow a free circulation of air night and day. 
Melons .—As houses become cleared of fruits remove the plants 
and make the necessary preparations for collecting the fermenting 
materials, if such be employed for bottom heat, and soil also previous 
to a fresh start. The old soil must be entirely removed and the house 
cleaned. Where bottom heat is supplied by fermenting materials 
only a portion of them need be removed and a little hot dung worked 
in, which will revive the bottom heat sufficient for this time of year. 
Pits and frames may be treated similarly, for unless the plants that 
have fruited are vigorous it is better to remove them and supply 
healthy young specimens than to rely on weakly and probably 
