JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
538 
[ June 30, 1881. 
insect-infested plants for a second crop. Plant on ridges or hillocks 
rammed down firmly, and maintain a moist atmosphere. Pot seed¬ 
lings, and keep them near to the glass to ensure a sturdy habit. Feed 
plants liberally that have swelling fruit, and keep the growths thinned. 
Fruits that are ripening should be exposed to a free circulation of 
air and plenty of light. Cracked fruits may be guarded against 
by withholding water from the atmosphere after the fruit commences 
ripening, and afford it to the roots only to prevent flagging. Keep 
a sharp look-out for canker at the collar, and apply freshly slaked 
lime to the affected parts. Continue to set the flowers daily, and 
directly the fruit is swelling earth up the roots. Plants in frames 
do not set fruit freely, sometimes owing to the atmosphere being too 
moist, which renders the pollen inert; a little ventilation constantly 
will remedy the defect. 
ORCHARD HOUSE. 
Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and Pears have their fruits swelling. 
In order to encourage this as much as possible afford rich mulchings 
and liquid manure, this being more especially necessary where the 
trees are carrying full crops and the roots are restricted to the 
pots. Examine the trees frequently, and disbud or pinch back strong 
shoots, preserving as far as possible the symmetry of the trees, but 
avoid removing too much foliage at one time, as this is calculated to 
render the trees unhealthy. Maintain a moist genial atmosphere by 
syringing every evening when the weather is warm, closing the ven¬ 
tilators somewhat early when it is likely the nights will be cold. 
Fig trees whether in pots or planted out will require great care in 
watering, keeping them well supplied, for if they receive a check 
now it is probable the fruit will fall. The points of strong-growing 
shoots should be removed and weakly ones rubbed off, keeping them 
fairly thin so as to allow air and light to have access to every part. 
Cherries are now ripe, and syringing must cease or the fruit will be 
spoiled. If possible the trees should be moved to a separate struc¬ 
ture where the atmosphere can be kept dry and cool, in order that 
the fruit may remain in good condition as long as possible, protect¬ 
ing it from birds with netting; or the trees may be placed in some part 
of the house by themselves, so that syringing them may be avoided. 
Where Vines are trained under the apex of the roof or over the path¬ 
way the shoots should be stopped one or two joints beyond the 
bunch, and trained-in to the wires so that they do not shade the trees 
too much; the laterals must be kept to one joint by stopping as 
required. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stephanotis grown in pots and trained on trellises may, if the plants 
are not already large enough, be encouraged to grow for some time ; 
but if already as large as required, they may at once be so treated so as 
to harden their growth without inducing them to extend any more, 
placing them where there is moderate heat with a dry atmosphere, 
and more air than where they have been grown, only giving water 
to prevent the leaves from becoming flaccid. 
Eondeletia speciosa major .—This is very desirable for late summer 
and autumn flowering, blooming freely and lasting long in beauty. 
It succeeds in a cool stove, and grows well in good fibrous loam with 
about a sixth of sand. Plants started early are now showing flowers, 
and must be allowed abundance of water. Their bright red trusses 
are good for cutting and last some time. If the flower heads are cut 
off when the flowers have faded the plants will commence growing 
again and flower a second time. 
Pancratiums are fine for cutting, the individual flowers combining 
purity of colour, elegance of form, and fragrance. They are of easy 
growth, thriving best in good loam with a little sand. When in active 
growth afford water freely, but when at rest give only sufficient to 
keep the foliage fresh, for if they are then over-watered the soil 
becomes sour, and the roots perish as fast as they are formed. They 
also require a light position. 
Clerodendrons .—Of these C. fragrans, C. fallax, and C. Kasmpferi 
have bright distinct flowers and are easily grown, yet the plants are 
seldom seen. They flower twice in the year if well managed. Plants 
started early will now have flowered, and should be shortened back 
to a couple of joints below the flower heads and placed in heat. If 
well supplied with liquid manure they will soon produce a second lot 
of flowers, and as they open inure the plants to a lower temperature, 
transferring them to the conservatory, where they will be found 
valuable in the autumn. iEschynanthuses grown in baskets must 
now be well supplied with water, or they will not flower freely. 
Amaryllis should have liquid manure and be kept free from red 
spider. The plants must also have light well-ventilated positions, or 
the growth will not attain the development essential for flowering 
strongly. 
Greenhouse .—Hardwooded plants that were potted early in spring 
have now taken to the soil and will be much benefited by being at 
once transferred to larger pots, especially young plants of Acacias, 
Adenandras, Boronias, Eriostemons, Darwinias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, 
Leschenaultias, and Statice profusa. The size of the pot must in all 
cases be determined by the condition of the roots. In no case, how¬ 
ever, let the pot be larger than is likely to be fully occupied with 
roots before winter. If bright dry weather follow the potting shade 
for about three weeks from sun, and maintain a moist atmosphere, not 
allowing more air than is necessary to prevent the temperature 
rising too high. This potting must not be deferred longer than the 
ensuing fortnight, as it is important they become well established 
before autumn. Salvia splendens, S. gesnermflora, S. Heeri, and other 
winter-flowering Sages may be finally potted and placed outdoors 
where they have shelter from wind, at the same time full exposure to 
the sun. If the pots are plunged in ashes it will save watering and 
assist the plants to retain the lower leaves. Heliotropes for autumn 
and winter flowering may be treated similarly, removing all flowers 
as they show until September, and supply liquid manure. Veronica 
salicifolia and V. Andersoni are useful autumn-flowering plants, and 
to have them dwarf and bushy the pots must he plunged in coal 
ashes in a sunny situation, supplying water freely, and when the pots 
are filled with roots liquid manure will be beneficial. 
Encourage winter-flowering plants of Cytisuses, Genistas, Acacias, 
Correas, Bouvardias, Linums, Monochaetums, and Daphnes to pro¬ 
mote a free sturdy growth and enable them to flower freely. Any 
needing repotting must be attended to at once, so that they may 
have the pots filled with roots before they are placed outdoors to 
ripen the growth. Epacrises growing vigorously should have a light 
position, closing the house somewhat early in the afternoon, and 
syringe the plants. 
Azaleas that flowered early and which were potted a few weeks 
ago must have the growth encouraged, and shading may now be dis¬ 
pensed with, or only some light moveable material employed in the 
brightest weather. Any plants that appear weak can have clear 
liquid manure every alternate time water is required. Later-flowered 
plants should have the seed pods removed, and be encouraged to 
make all the growth possible. Shade will be necessary at starting, 
but afford all the light possible without direct exposure to the sun. 
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SR. 1 
THE AUTHORSHIP OF “ MODERN BEE-KEEPING/’ 
In the “ British Bee Journal” for June an editorial note calls 
attention to and endeavours to deny a statement made in this 
Journal in a reply to a correspondent that I am the author of 
“ Modern Bee-keeping.” As a duty I owe to my fellow readers 
I append my reply to my censor, adding that as a rule I disregard 
all attacks in the before-mentioned Journal, seeing that their aim 
and object must be well understood by all discerning bee-keepers, 
while I regard a conscientious and consistent course as a sufficient 
and abiding defence. 
In the June number of the “ British Bee Journal ” exception 
is taken to a statement made in the Journal of Horticulture, in 
which I am referred to as having written gratuitously “ Modern 
Bee-keeping.” The character of the editorial is irritating enough, 
but I would prefer to reply to it in the strength of gentleness. 
It is only needful now for me to say that not only did I 
gratuitously write the whole of the second edition of “ Modern 
Bee-keeping,” and the whole of the first except a very few lines 
of Mr. Hunter’s, retained by me in order that his name might not 
disappear from the preface, but that in addition I designed and 
