216 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March ir,issi. 
A good grower of Calanthes, Mr. J. Peers, Hillside, Wavertree, 
who exhibits them in great excellence, repots his plants when the 
young growths at the base of the pseudo-bulbs have pushed about 
half an inch, which is generally about the middle of March, and 
at that period of their growth it would be premature to judge of 
their flowering capabilities.—A. R. Cox, Elm Hall , Wavertree. 
THE GREAT FROST AND ROSES. 
I had proposed to make some final remarks after pruning my 
standard Rose trees. After going over my two hundred trees I 
find, however, that, like the needy knife-grinder, “ Story, there is 
none to tell, sir !” They are all equally now walking sticks with 
a round top and a feeble hope of not being quite killed. The 
heads were not protected, and I have not been able to prune back 
to sound wood with any one of them, except, perhaps, Fisher 
Holmes and Baron Bonstettin. I am glad to find the Hybrid Teas 
emerging better than the Teas. In spite of the general adverse 
feeling I still hold to these, and expect to see some achieve popu¬ 
larity—certainly the red Gloire de Dijon, Reine Marie Henriette. 
The more I inquire the more terrible 1 find the havoc amongst 
Roses in this neighbourhood. The firm of Ivery at Dorking have 
lost very largely ; and that large grower Mr. H, Appleby, at the 
Boxhill Nurseries, estimates his losses at between four and five 
thousand, Teas having been killed in spite of careful straw pro¬ 
tection. Both up and down the Mole I hear the same history. 
Thermometers carefully placed and watched have registered below 
zero. At Wonham Manor the head gardener of the Misses Mar- 
joribanks, Mr. Good, gives 33° of frost on January 17th, and 34° 
on January 25th ; and even this is exceeded at Burford Lodge, 
the residence of Sir Trevor Lawrence, where I understood 35° was 
registered on January 25th. I am particular in giving these, 
which coincide with my own observation, as I find happy people 
in warmer latitudes rather incredulous. That high authority Mr. 
Edward Mawley pronounces “ that most minimum thermometers 
are very queer at very low temperatures.” The common Laurels 
in these parts have suffered very severely, a day of hot sun at 
the time of the chief frost having apparently been especially 
injurious.—A. C. _ 
Among all the catalogues, descriptions, and books on Roses, I 
never found Gloire de Dijon mentioned as anything but very 
hardy. This year, however, has proved fatal to five or six fine 
trees on Briars about four years old, and which were making 
splendid and well-ripened growth, three especially having nearly 
covered a south wall and porch. On cutting a bough that had 
fallen from the wall, to my surprise the pith was brown. Little 
by little I cut, gently at first, for I could not believe my favourite 
was killed ; but in five minutes my tree was a heap of fragments, 
not a sound bit either green or old w T ood was left without the 
marks of frost, and so with the others. Strange to say other Teas, 
Niphetos for instance, has survived, but that was mulched above 
the union. This year the thermometer stood at 5°, last year at 7°, 
and the year before about the same. Can the 2° have made the 
difference, or was it the terrible winds ?— Goosequill. 
WORK foiithe WEEK,. v5i 
HARDY FRDIT GARDEN. 
The prolonged cold weather has so far proved beneficial by retard¬ 
ing the expansion of the flower buds. The mild weather we are now 
experiencing is, however, causing them to swell freely. Apricots 
will be in flower shortly, and must be attended to in covering, or 
frost may destroy all hopes of a crop for this season. The buds of 
Peaches and Nectarines are also prominent, and dressing, nailing, or 
tying-in should be completed as soon as possible. Although these 
appear better than for the last few years the wood is not well 
ripened, and such should be cut back to the shorter-join ted and 
matured wood at the base of the shoots. The protective material 
must be prepared for covering the trees by the time the flowers show 
colour. Complete tying-in Apple and Pear trees trained as espalier 
or cordons, and cut back the leads of these and pyramids to about 
12 inches to produce shoots for furnishing the trees. Figs that have 
been protected during the winter should now be uncovered. Pruning 
is best deferred until the young fruits are visible. Excessive pruning 
must be avoided, cutting out only the stronger or unripened shoots 
as far as practicable during the summer, so as to insure a regular 
quantity of short-jointed well-ripened shoots. These, except when 
required to fill vacant space, may be allowed to grow from the wall 
to the extent of about 9 inches, and at the winter pruning it will 
only be desirable to moderately thin these to prevent overcrowding, 
and by j udiciously stopping the points of those bearing fruit short- 
jointed fruitful wood will be secured. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines. —The work in this department will require energy and 
method to keep pace with the requirements in disbudding, pinching, 
tying down, and thinning. Disbudding should be performed as soon 
as the most promising shoots can be determined, and only those 
should be left that can have full exposure to light and air. Care 
must be exercised in tying down the shoots, as when young they 
snap easily. As soon as the fruit is set cut away the bunches not 
necessary for the crop, removing those badly set, small, or badly 
placed. Commence thinning as soon as the berries are swelling. 
Keep up a good supply of moisture in all houses. Afford tepid 
liquid manure to the inside borders copiously, and sprinkle with 
guano water, so as to have the atmospheric moisture charged with 
ammonia. Where Grapes are colouring a rather dry atmosphere 
should be maintained, and a free circulation of warm air afforded, 
which is essential to good colour and finish. The rods of late Vines 
started at the beginning of the month should be syringed several 
times a day, and the border well damped every evening. 
Cherry House .—Grubs are often troublesome on the foliage in its 
young state. They are of two kinds ; one is enclosed in a case 
attached to the under side of the leaves, and must be carefully sought 
and destroyed, or it will soon give the leaves a scorched appearance, 
and will also perforate and destroy the fruit. The other will be 
found rolled up in the leaves, and is easily destroyed. Ventilation is 
of primary importance in the cultivation of the Cherry under glass, 
and must be attended to. Commence ventilating at 50°, at and 
above which allow a free circulation of air through the house, but 
regulating it according to circumstances. Artificial heat will be 
necessary to maintain 50° in the daytime, and at 40° to 45° at night' 
continuing former instructions in other respects for the present. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Ferns .—Pot at once any plants that need it, for if the young fronds 
are growing when it is done they will be checked. The best soil for 
delicate Ferns is good peat with about a sixth in equal proportions 
of sand and charcoal broken small, loam being added for those of 
stronger growth. If the fronds are required for cutting or the plants 
for decorative purposes, grow them in a light position and do not 
have the atmosphere very humid. 
Orchids .—The growing season now commencing will necessitate a 
greater degree of moisture and heat. The evaporation troughs must 
be kept full of water, and the benches and floors have water poured 
over them morning and evening. In sunny weather plants that have 
commenced growth will be benefited by a light syringing in the 
afternoon. Plants on blocks will require frequent syringing. The 
water employed for all purposes must be soft, clear, and tepid. 
Except on sunny days little ventilation will be needed. Shake out 
Calanthe vestita vars. and C. Veitchii; cut the old roots away, and 
repot in a compost of three parts fibrous peat, old cow dung and 
fibrous loam a part each, and a similar proportion of broken pots or 
charcoal. Drain the pots well, and keep the plants rather dry until 
they begin to root, after which good supplies of w T ater are necessary. 
Supply Sobralias with weak liquid manure, also Calanthe Masuca 
and C. veratrifolia. Cypripediums and Cymbidiums may also have a 
little w r eak liquid manure. Repot Anguloas in good fibrous peat, filling 
the pots half full of crocks, and over those place a layer of sphagnum, 
and then peat and potsherds, keeping the pseudo-bulbs slightly raised 
above the top of the pot. The temperature for the East India house 
65° at night, or a little higher in mild weather, 75° by day, rising 5° 
to 10° from sun heat ; Mexican house GO 0 at night and 70° by day ; 
and cool house 50° at night and 00° by day. Disa grandiflora when 
growing strongly will be the better if the pots are in saucers. If 
