Marcia si, 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 259 
the growths, and apply water moderately at present as the nights 
are still cold, employing good night coverings. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The fine weather recently experienced dried the ground sufficiently 
for sowing Onions, Parsnips, Peas, Turnips, early Carrots, Asparagus, 
Leeks, Parsley, and Spinach. Onions succeed on a well-manured 
firm soil, and may be sown in drills 10 or 12 inches apart and left 
thicker in the rows. Autumn-sown Onions ought also to have been 
transplanted. These are disposed in shallow drills 10 inches apart 
and 5 inches asunder in the rows. If large bulbs are required place 
the rows 12 inches apart. It is yet too early to sow the main crop of 
Carrots, hut a few may be sown on a warm border. Give the prefer¬ 
ence to light unmanured soil; sow thinly in drills 10 inches apart, and 
between these sow a line of Radishes : either Early Horn or Is antes 
Horn Carrots are suitable ; and good early Radishes are Wood’s 
Frame and the French Breakfast. A mixture of equal parts of soot, 
lime, and wood ashes thinly distributed over the suV|a,j^ of the soil 
and lightly stirred in prior to sowingwill provebeneficial^and a good 
preventive of the maggot so destructive to Onions and Carrots. 
Where the maggot has proved very injurious a small quantity of 
wood ashes should be sown in the drills with the seed. Ground 
deeply dug and manured with lime only is most suitable for Parsnips > 
the seed may yet be sown in rows from 15 to 18 inches apart. Early 
Turnips are best obtained on an east border. The soil should be 
made firm and not be very poor. Sow thinly in lines 15 inches apart. 
Asparagus may be sown in drills 12 or 15 inches apart, and the seed¬ 
lings can be transplanted in the next or following season. A pinch 
of Leek seed to be sown thinly broadcast or in shallow drills in order 
to obtain plants for putting out later on. Parsley may be sown in 
any narrow border, but is much finer if given an open position and 
the plants freely thinned out. 
Peas reared in boxes under glass should be transplanted before 
becoming drawn. If sown in fine soil and evenly over the boxes, 
shake the roots clear of the soil, having first cut out deep narrow 
drills with a spade, and lay them in to their full depth. Those sown 
in turves or pots to be transplanted as raised. The rows of Peas to 
be from SO inches to 1 yard apart, and when first put out should be 
lightly protected. Nearly dead Spruce Fir boughs are most suitable, 
as these need not be removed when the stakes are put in. If not 
already in no time should be lost before making a good sowing of 
early Peas. As soon as the earliest sown are pushing through the 
surface sow more of William I. or other good early variety in the 
open ground, and at the same time a row of a good second early 
variety, such as Alpha, Hair’s Dwarf Mammoth, Nelson’s Vanguard, 
and Laxton’s Supreme—medium height varieties—to be staked or 
otherwise. Taller varieties suitable for this sowing are Culverwell’s 
Telegraph, Carters’ Telephone, and Huntingdonian. Spinach to be 
sown between the rows. A mixture of soot and lime dusted over the 
young growth of Peas will tend to keep off the birds. 
Autumn-sown Lettuces wintered in frames if well hardened off may 
be transplanted to a warm border. Manure the ground freely and 
give the plants good room. The rows of Cabbage varieties to be 
9 inches apart and G inches asunder in the rows, and the Cos varieties 
1 foot apart and 9 inches asunder in the rows. Sow more seed of 
Paris White Cos, or varieties of the same on a warm border, and a 
pinch of the All-the-Year-Round Cabbage Lettuce. Seed of Dwarf 
Erfurt Mammoth or other early variety of Cauliflower, Veitch’s 
Autumn Giant Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage if required 
during the summer, Early Ulm and Little Pixie Savoys if required 
early, may be sown thinly on a sheltered border. 
Early Potatoes may be planted at the foot of a warm wall or on a 
sheltered border. A light sandy soil is best for this crop, and when 
planting rub off all side shoots and carefully draw the earth so as to 
preserve the central sprout. Do not hurry in the planting of principal 
crops, preferring rather to have the sets in good condition and the 
ground in good working order. 
HOTBEDS. 
It is not too late to form what has been before termed a “ spring 
bed.” This may consist of leaves and stable manure previously pre¬ 
pared, or leaves previously used for forcing Seakale or Rhubarb, to 
which is added a little somewhat fresh stable manure. The bed may 
be about 3 feet in depth and of any width, and be made firm. About 
G inches of fine sandy or light soil to be placed on the surface, this to 
be kept in position by narrow boards, the latter being fixed by tall 
stakes, which also support the fish netting and other protecting 
material it may be found necessary to use. One corner may be used 
for repeated sowings of Mustard and Cress, and ,in another maybe 
sown a pinch of Celery for the earliest crop. Seed of an early Carrot 
might be sown thinly over the remainder of the bed, and with this 
may be sown patches of early Radishes, Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, 
Lettuces, and even Asters and Stocks. Thin sowing must be strictly 
practised, and each kind should be removed, to be pricked out or 
otherwise before they overgrow their neighbours. The Carrots will 
eventually have sole possession of the bed, and these alone will well 
repay for the outlay and trouble taken. By sowing on a “ spring 
bed ” seed is economised, and crops are obtained much earlier than if 
sown on an ordinary sheltered border. 
GREENHOUSES. 
Ferns .—Many kinds of these, notably the Adiantums or Maiden¬ 
hair Ferns, are commencing growth and may be repotted. When in 
this stage of growth the balls of soil may be reduced considerably 
with the help of a sharp-pointed stake, the roots lightly trimmed, and 
be repotted into a pot of the same size as that previously used, or 
somewhat larger. They may now be safely divided if more plants 
are wanted, using for this purpose a plunging fork in preference to 
cutting through with a knife or spade. Use pots as small as possible, 
and do not supply water for a week at the least. Adiantum formosum 
should not be disturbed at the roots unless dividing is resorted to in 
order to increase the stock. The varieties of Pteris, Blechnums, 
Aspleniums, Nephrolepis, and others may all be slightly reduced and 
repotted. Any that are sickly should have the greater part of the 
old soil removed from the roots, trimming these with a knife and re¬ 
turning to as small pots as can conveniently be used. Soil suitable 
for all the foregoing may consist of equal parts of turfy loam and 
peat, with a liberal addition of sharp sand and charcoal. If either the 
loam or peat are bad use less of these ; a quantity of leaf soil and 
broken potsherds may be substituted for the charcoal. All pots to 
be cleaned and well drained ; covering the crocks with moss, and 
over this a layer of the roughest soil. When the plants are repotted 
place them in a warm part of the house out of draughts, shade from 
bright sunshine, and supply water carefully. 
A RETROSPECT. 
Notwithstanding the many unfavourable seasons for bees 
during the last ten years, two of which were very destructive 
of bee-life, killing, I daresay, eight-tenths of the swarms in the 
midland and northern counties of England, great advancement 
has been made in apiarian science and practice. Prior to 1870 
little progress had been made in England for forty years. Things 
are different now : knowledge is spreading fast; gifted teachers 
and successful apiarians are at work, and doing much good by 
their lessons and example. What is most wanted is a good season 
or two for honey-gathering throughout all the counties of England. 
It would be painful to mention the disappointments and losses of 
many people, both young and old, who have made unsuccessful 
attempts to begin bee-keeping within the last few years. Baffied 
by unfavourable seasons, failure has been the result in the case of 
many hopeful beginners. The straw hive, the bar-frame, and the 
Stewarton have all been tried and found wanting. The weather, 
more than anything else, has caused the depression and failures. 
Some years ago a clergyman from Scotland, being in this locality, 
called to have a chat about bees. He had made a commence¬ 
ment two years previously, and had not then a spoonful of honey T . 
Since that time the Scottish bee-keepers have had three good 
seasons for honey, and probably the clergyman’s ill luck at first is 
now forgotten in the encouraging success of after years. While 
lamenting the disappointments and collapses of many in their first 
