278 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 7, 1881. 
may be accidental, but the plants are all together, and no diffe¬ 
rence made in them, and the result is quite unexpected to me. 
At the back of my house, in a far more sheltered spot sur¬ 
rounded by buildings, I have about three hundred dwarfs, and 
these I fondly flattered myself were not so much damaged. The 
buds were becoming full and the tops bursting into leaf, only one 
here and there appeared black ; but they will not bear inspection, 
and nearly all must be cut to the ground before arriving at sound 
pith. Beautifully as many seem to be growing, cutting-off shows 
a stem green on the outside truly, but the heart as brown as 
possible. We had 28° of frost in Wiltshire before the snow came, 
and afterwards 32° was registered by a neighbour, whose ther¬ 
mometer had but recently been proved. I cannot but think that 
for such temperatures a well-established plant on its own roots 
has a better chance than any budded specimens. 
“A. C.” speaks of his standards. I have but a dozen. One, 
Annie Wood, I should say is hopelessly gone ; another, John 
Hopper, and another, La France, now look like “A. C.’s” knobs 
on a stick, and I cannot help thinking they will do as much with¬ 
out the knob as with it! Another great favourite, an old-esta¬ 
blished plant, from which I generally cut from twenty to thirty 
blooms, Jules Margottin, has old wood as thick as my finger, the 
pith of which is intensely brown. I do not expect to see it bloom 
again ; the others I have not cut. I was in a neighbour’s garden 
to-day. She is a devoted worshipper of Roses, and she did not 
think hers were hurt, but the standards are all the same. I was 
also in a cottage garden where the poor woman takes a pride in 
her Roses, and where she had recently filled the gaps in her beds 
by new plants. I went to one and cut off one of the two shoots 
on it; the result was the same—pith quite brown. Here I believe 
that unwittingly dead plants have actually been sold ; and if I 
state my ow r n belief, it is that very few standard Roses in this 
neighbourhood are good for anything but firewood, and they are 
not valuable for that, as their thorns are in the way. 
All this is the more grievous, for I verily believe that more 
persons joined the ranks of Rose enthusiasts last year than ever. 
I ordered several hundreds for various friends. Mr. W. Paul, 
writing to me not long since, said he had never known so many 
new persons “ going in for Roses and what a damper this will 
prove if many standards and not a few dwarfs are lost. My few 
Teas I have not yet examined, but Souvenir d’un Ami, dwarf and 
resting against a greenhouse, and forgotten as to protection, is, 
thanks to the wall, better than any Rose I have yet cut. Triomphe 
de Rennes (a standard) against the w T all is only a knob, and that 
I fear dead, whilst a dwarf alongside is cut to the ground. 
One word to my old friend “ Wyld Savage.” He used to be 
a grower of Teas. The Tea election proved there wrnre not many 
worth much, but still I fancied that “ Wyld Savage ” could 
have named twenty-four that would grace a stand. What has 
happened to his beloved Marie Van Houtte ? Again, cannot 
Cloth of Gold be added to the list 1 One of your correspondents 
has named Jean Ducher and others that certainly at their best 
are lit for a stand. I agree with “A. C.” in believing that 
Comtesse d’Oxford has suffered terribly.—Y. B. A. Z. 
WORK/oi\theWEEK,. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Any deficiency in the plantations of Rhubarb through the roots 
being lifted for forcing purposes should now be made good. Plants 
for this purpose are generally those that have been used for forcing, 
but they are not so good as plants taken at once from the ground. 
Divide the roots, reserving two or more crowns to each. Plant in 
rows 4 feet apart and 3 feet asunder, and for permanent plantations 
allow a foot more distance between the rows and plants. Healthy 
portions 4 to G inches in length of Seakale roots that have been 
reserved in sand as the crowns were lifted for forcing, have now formed 
a callus, and should be planted in well-prepared ground 2 feet apart 
in rows 1 foot asunder. Crowns that have been lifted for forcing and 
afterwards hardened off by placing them in sand in a cool shed should 
also be planted out, and they will be again available for forcing 
when the time comes round. Roots that were rejected as too small 
for forcing must now be planted, and if they have prominent crowns 
and are likely to start into flower-heads remove the point with a 
knife. Where seed is intended to be sown sow it in drills about 
18 inches apart, and thin the seedlings to about 12 inches. The pro¬ 
tecting material may shortly be removed from around the crowns of 
Globe Artichokes, and should be replaced with a mulching of manure 
about 3 inches thick. To secure large heads of this esteemed vege¬ 
table it is essential that vigorous young plants be obtained, and for 
ordinary purposes a new plantation should be made every year about 
this time ; these plants will afford a moderate quantity of heads this 
autumn and produce abundantly next season. Retain a portion of 
old root to each division, choosing pieces with two or three suckers, 
or if more reduce them to that number, planting rather deeply in 
rows 4 feet apart and 3 feet asunder. Water if necessary, and mulch 
to prevent evaporation. Planting out autumn-sown Cauliflowers, 
Cabbage, Lettuce, and Tripoli Onions has been impeded by the 
weather, but no time should be unnecessarily lost in proceeding 
with the work. Cauliflowers, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and 
Lettuces that have been raised in heat, pricked off, well grown, 
and hardened, should be planted out when the weather is favour¬ 
able. Peas sown in pots or turves may be planted in warm 
borders, placing the sticks thickly as a protection. The prin¬ 
cipal sowing of Broccoli should be made at once ; Penzance ) 
Cooling’s Matchless, Leamington, Lauder’s Goshen, and Model 
are good sorts for early spring succession and late use; and 
for late autumn and winter Snow’s Winter and Veitch’s Protecting 
Autumn. Sow Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Borecoles, and Cabbages of 
the early varieties for autumn use, and Cauliflowers, Walcheren and 
Yeitch’s Autumn Giant, for a supply of heads from August or Sep¬ 
tember onwards. The young plants from earlier sowings of Brassicas 
when large enough should either be thinned out or be pricked off in 
prepared beds to secure a sturdy habit. Sow Celery in rich soil on a 
sheltered border ; plants from this sowing are for late use preferable 
to those raised in heat. Attend to the requirements of Peas in 
earthing up, staking, and guarding against the ravages of birds and 
slugs by dusting whilst damp with soot, dry wood ashes, or quick¬ 
lime. Make successional sowings of Peas and Broad Beans according 
to the probable requirements. Sow also the principal crop of Carrots 
for winter use and Beet for early use, Egyptian coming in quickly 
deferring the principal sowing until the early part of next month. 
Salsafy and Scorzonera may now be sown in deep rich soil in drills 
about 15 inches apart, covering an inch deep, and guarding against 
mice. Sow Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Summer Savory on a warm 
border, and on a sheltered one Thyme, Sage, and other perennial herbs 
that may be raised from seed. Divide and replant herbs generally 
when necessary. Complete the planting of early Potatoes, proceeding 
w'ith the second early. 
Forcing Department .—Supply w T ater if necessary to Potatoes before 
earthing them, but less will be required as the tubers attain to a size 
for use, as too much of it will deteriorate the flavour. Thin-out later 
crops of Carrots, and plentifully supply them with water, also 
Radishes and Lettuces. Prick off Celery from seed pans in rich soil 
over slight bottom heat, affording sufficient warmth to ensure steady 
progressive growth. Sow Tomatoes and Capsicums. Transfer 
Tomatoes into their fruiting pots, and remove all side growths, one 
stem being most suitable for plants in pots. Whenever the w'eather 
is favourable ventilate freely all frames or pits containing vegetables. 
Earth up advancing crops of French Beans in pots or in pits, supply¬ 
ing water copiously, and if necessary liquid manure. Sow as needed 
to maintain the succession unbroken. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse .—Cuttings of Salvias should now be inserted so as to 
have good plants by autumn, also Linum trigynum and Libonias. 
Bouvardias and Tree Carnations require to be struck early and to be 
potted and well grown to procure strong plants. Sow seeds of Primula 
sinensis for autumn flowering, employing good loam with about a 
third of leaf soil and a little sand; also sow Cinerarias for autumn 
flowering. Calceolarias should be potted as they require it, selecting 
the most vigorous and such as are not yet showing flowers, and when 
they are rooted in the fresh soil supply liquid manure. These plants 
like a humid atmosphere and to be kept in a cool position, fumigating 
upon the first appearance of aphides. Supply Pelargoniums now 
showing their flowers with weak liquid manure, and if the pots are 
