JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
318 
[ April 21, 1881. 
not mentioned in the article to which Mr. Bardney refers it was 
a slip on my part. I had none better than these plants in large 
pots last season, and they certainly require less labour in the 
supply of watering than plants grown in smaller pots.—R. P. 
Brotherston. 
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WORK, fohtheWEEK. \ 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
No time should be lost in planting out Cauliflowers wintered in 
frames, also those raised and forwarded in heat, as well as early 
Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Lettuces, and Peas whenever the weather 
is favourable. If a south border is at liberty sow Dwarf Kidney or 
French Beans 4 inches asunder in rows about 2 feet apart; Osborn’s 
Forcing, Negro, and Canadian Wonder are suitable varieties. Attend 
to the earthing-up and placing sticks to Peas as they advance in growth, 
and dust the plants whilst damp with soot, quicklime, or dry wood 
ashes. In order to obtain a good supply of Peas in August, sow now 
liberally such kinds as Criterion, Huntingdonian, Telephone, Emperor 
of the Marrows, and Ne Plus Ultra, which are all tall varieties ; among 
those of medium height are Dr. Maclean, Marvel, Yeitch’s Perfection) 
and Maclean’s Best of All. The ground for late summer Peas can 
hardly be too rich and deep, affording them plenty of room. Make 
another sowing of Longpod and Broad Windsor Beans. Complete 
the sowing of Carrots and other root crops, preparing the ground for 
Beet, also Chicory, which may be sown at the end of this or beginning 
of next month. Lettuces are coming in at last, Stanstead Park 
taking the lead. Attend to the Cos varieties, and tie up the earliest 
to succeed the Cabbage varieties. Keep up successional supplies by 
sowing moderate quantities of seed occasionally ; Malta and Suttons 
Gem among Cabbage sorts, with Alexandra Cos, are good for summer 
use. Complete as expeditiously as possible the planting of Potatoes* 
Plantations of herbs should at once be seen to, inserting cuttings of 
Sage and Thyme. Divide the roots of Marjoram and Tarragon, and 
plant in rows about 18 inches apart. Sow seeds of other herbs not 
increased by division, such as Sweet Marjoram, Basil, Savory, and 
Chervil, the last being sown about three times a year to keep up a 
supply in the present month, June, and August. Herbs are benefited 
by a change of soil, and should have a moderately warm situation ; 
they succeed well on an east border. The seedling Brassicas require 
care to protect them from small birds and slugs. A little dry soot 
scattered over the beds will, from its bitter taste, check the birds, but 
a little quicklime is preferable for slugs. Ply the hoe when the 
weather is favourable between the rows and about growing plants, 
and as soon as the seedlings of root crops appear run the hoe between 
the drills. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—The time for planting young Vines has arrived, and where 
new borders have to be made it should be seen to at once, choosing 
dry weather for the operation. Drain thoroughly, and have the 
materials for the border well incorporated. Loam taken from a 
pasture about 3 or 4 inches thick, chopped up in squares of about 
G inches, adding about a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a bushel of 
crushed bones to a cartload of loam, with a similar quantity of char¬ 
coal, will form a suitable and durable border. Let the depth be 
30 inches deep and the width 6 feet to start with. The material 
should be placed together rather firmly. The Vines for planting are 
in 8 or 10-inch pots, the canes having been cut back in December and 
have been kept in a cool house. The buds have started and are a 
couple of inches long, which is a suitable length. Turn the Vines out 
of the pots, disentangle the roots, removing every particle of soil, place 
the Vines in position, spread out the roots evenly, and cover them 
with about 4 inches depth of soil, working it amongst the roots, after¬ 
wards giving a good supply of water at 90°, and mulch with short 
dung. Syringe two or three times a day according to the weather, 
and do not attempt to force the Vines into growth, but maintain a 
temperature of about 55° artificially, and ventilate freely above G5°. 
Young Vines planted last spring are now growing, and when the 
shoots are about half an inch long a little fire heat on cold nights 
will be beneficial. Rub off all buds but one at each break as soon as 
the best can be distinguished, and crop lightly ; a couple of bunches 
to prove the kinds will be sufficient. If there are any supernumeraries 
they may be fruited heavily. There must not be any deficiency of 
moisture in the border. Thin the bunches and berries in succession 
houses, bearing in mind that so long as those remain on the Vines 
they are appropriating the nutriment that would otherwise go to the 
improvement of the permanent crop. Late houses started in March 
are making rapid progress ; attend to disbudding and tying-out 
as necessary, closing early, and dispense with fire heat as much 
as possible. Maintain plenty of atmospheric moisture, and ventilate 
freely when the weather permits. In the early houses red spider is 
appearing, and should be combated by painting the pipes with 
sulphur, but not too thickly. Water the borders where the Grapes 
are colouring with liquid manure, and mulch the surface of the 
border with partially decayed manure. A moderate amount of 
atmospheric moisture should still be maintained, but as the colour¬ 
ing becomes more advanced gradually lessen the supply and allow 
a free circulation of dry warm air. A full crop of early Grapes is a 
serious strain on the Vines, and in striving to ripen them in a short 
time perfection in colour is not always attained, which defect may 
often be avoided by a moderately low night temperature and a con¬ 
stant supply of dry warm air. Where Grapes are fully ripe a reduc¬ 
tion of temperature may take place, keeping up a little moisture in 
the air. 
Melons .—The first batch of plants have their fruits swelling freely, 
necessitating copious supplies of water at the roots, maintaining a 
moist but at the same time well ventilated atmosphere. Keep the 
laterals somewhat closely stopped, and thin-out where likely to 
interfere with the principal foliage. Afford the needful support of 
the fruit. Later plants are showing fruit, and unless in sufficient 
quantity for a crop remove the first until five or six pistillate blossoms 
of a simultaneous growth on each plant are secured. Maintain a 
higher temperature during the setting period, 80 Q to 90° from sun 
heat, and 70° at night, affording water only to prevent flagging, and 
withhold the syringe and all atmospheric moisture for a few days, 
ventilating rather freely, and look over the blossoms for fertilising 
as fast as they appear, it being preferably performed after a few 
hours’ bright sun. Attend to former instructions as to earthing up, 
In pits and frames maintain a bottom heat of 80° to 85°, and a top 
heat of 65° to 75° with an advance of 10° to 15° from sun heat. Ven¬ 
tilate a little at 75°, and maintain 80° to 85° during the day, closing 
for the day at about 3 P.M., but not so early if an advance is likely to 
be made above 90°. Observe the conditions indicated above when 
the fruit is setting, and after the fruits are set and swelling let them 
be placed on pieces of slate, afterwards raising them above the foliage 
on an inverted flower pot. Continue to make up beds of prepared 
materials, getting out the plants when the bottom heat is not in 
excess of 90°. Pot off seedlings, and sow seed for raising plants for 
successional crops. 
Cucumbers .— To insure a healthy and fruitful condition of the 
plants do not omit pruning the plants regularly about twice a week, 
or the young growths will so crowd each other as to render the 
operation tedious and injurious, as there is danger of removing that 
which it is desirable to retain, and of rubbing off the young fruit. 
Moisture will need to be abundant in the atmosphere and at the roots, 
or red spider and thrips will soon appear. Fumigation will destroy 
thrips, but it must be done carefully and repeatedly. Against red 
spider thinly coat the pipes with sulphur, and fill the evaporation 
troughs with guano water, and damping the house with the latter 
at closing. The foliage must not be allowed to flag severely, other¬ 
wise shade as little as possible at present. In pits and frames an 
increase of moisture will be necessary, damping the foliage gently 
through a fine rose early on fine warm afternoons, closing at the 
same time, and with the temperature advanced to 85°, admit a little 
air afterwards for about half an hour. Attend to stopping and 
thinning the shoots where likely to be too crowded, and maintain a 
good bottom heat by means of linings of fermenting materials, and 
afterwards be careful to allow the escape of rank steam, especially 
