April 21,1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
319 
when the sun is powerful. Earth-up the roots a little from time to 
time, and afford efficient protection over the lights at night. Ridge 
varieties should now be sown. 
Pines. —Suckers started at the beginning of March, and plants dis¬ 
rooted at that time and subjected to similar treatment, will be well 
rooted, and should be transferred to the large pots before they 
become root-bound. See that the soil is thoroughly moist before 
potting, and if necessary give a thorough supply. Autumn suckers 
kept through the winter in pots it is not intended to fruit them in 
should also be attended to in potting, and if to fruit early in autumn 
10-inch pots are large enough for Jamaicas and Queens, and 11 or 
12-inch for the most vigorous-growing kinds. A temperature of 
about 95° at the base of the pots is suitable for newly-potted plants, 
but after the roots reach the sides of the pots 90° should not be 
exceeded, as there is danger above that of injuring the roots, espe¬ 
cially fruiting plants with roots in an active state at the sides of 
the pots. Keep the atmosphere about fruiting plants well charged 
with moisture during the time the house is closed, employing no 
more fire heat than is necessary to maintain 70° at night, and 5° more 
in mild weather. Commence ventilating slightly at 80°, more freely 
at 85°, and liberally at 90° ; close with sun heat at 85°, and syringe 
the plants lightly except those in flower. Water will be required 
about once a week at this season. Where scattered fruits are ripen¬ 
ing and flavour is required, such _ on the plants should be removed 
to a house where they can have more air, a vinery where the Grapes 
are ripe being suitable. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Herbaceous plants are among the first to cheer rrs with their flowers, 
and are particularly interesting during the spring and early summer 
months. Complete the dividing and re-arrangement of these plants 
as may be necessary, and before replanting work-in some fresh soil 
or decayed manure. Pyrethrums have showy flowers, and come in at 
a time when showy flowers are scarce, and should be grown where 
cut flowers are in request. There are now some really fine double 
forms, of which the following are good :—Madame Munier, rosy 
blush ; Marquis of Bute, crimson; Mont Blanc, white; Sturbide, 
purplish carmine; Captain Nares, crimson ; Duchess of Edinburgh, 
mauve suffused rose ; Galopin, deep crimson ; J. N. Tweedy, crimson 
tipped white ; Madame Billiard, flesh white ; Panorama, white shaded 
pink ; Rev. J. Dix, rosy carmine; Gustave Heitz, rosy pink ; and 
Lady Blanche, white suffused pink. They do well in ordinary garden 
soil, their Pseony-Aster-like flowers being very effective. Serba- 
ceous Pceonies also are fine early summer-flowering plants. Some of 
the finest are Madame Calot, white tinted rose ; albiflora chinensis 
plena, white ; albiflora Whitleyi, white ; Marie Lemoine, rosy blush, 
creamy centre ; Docteur Bretonneau, rose, centre pink; atro-san- 
guinea, crimson ; Clarisse, rosy pink, white centre ; Etendard du Grand 
Homme, rosy purple ; Edmond Lebon, rose ; Prince Imperial, rose, 
centre white and yellow ; and tenuifolia plena, blood red, beautiful. 
In rich rather moist soil they luxuriate, and once planted take care of 
themselves, and in flower have an imposing appearance. German 
Irises are fine border plants, doing well in almost any soil and place, 
and they produce their fine variously coloured flowers at an acceptable 
time. Some of the finest are Samson, yellow and crimson ; Madame 
Sontag, lavender, yellow centre, lower petal blue feathered white ; 
flavescens, lemon ; pallida, lavender ; Rolandiana, reddish purple, 
blotched white; atro-purpurea, bluish purple; Donna Maria, white, 
suffused with lavender ; Bridesmaid, white, veined purple ; Raphael, 
nankeen and purple; Lucrece, sulphur, lower petals lavender ; and 
versicolor, violet and white. Then there are the summer-flower¬ 
ing Chrysanthemums that begin sometimes flowering in June and 
continue for months, being both useful and decorative : and of those 
Album plenum, white ; Golden Button, yellow; Delphine Caboche, 
purplish rose ; Frederic Peld, red ; Adrastus, rose ; Cassy, light rose ; 
and Andromeda, yellow, are good varieties. Delphiniums also are 
fine for cutting and have great decorative value, especially the 
double forms, as Pompon Brilliant, Keteleeri, grandiflorum plenum, 
Amede Hans, Beatsoni, and Madame Richalet; and of singles nudi- 
caule, Belladonna, alopecuroides, Madame Lelandais, Wheeleri, and 
Cashmerianum. 
Phloxes afford very handsome flowers and make an effective dis¬ 
play. Both the early-flowering section, as P. suffruticosa, and late- 
flowering, as P. decussata, should be grown. Of the early-flowering 
the following are fine—The Queen, white; Clipper, white shaded 
lilac; Miss Robertson, white ; Morello, rosy crimson ; Lady Rapier, 
white and fragrant; William Blair, rosy purple, crimson eye ; Union, 
deep rose ; E. L. Levvan, mauve ; A. M. Kinnon, rosy purple, crimson 
eye; Duchess of Athole, white, rosy crimson eye ; Forward, white, 
striped and clouded rose ; and Purple Emperor. Of the late-flowering 
section Miss Macrae, white, purplish crimson eye ; Madame la Com- 
tesse de Turenne, white, lilac centre ; Madame Marie Saison, white, 
shaded red ; Mons. Malet, lilac, white centre; Mrs. Austin, white, 
crimson eye ; Ball of Fire, red ; Mons. de la Devanschuff, rose, purple 
centre; Mrs. Balfour, crimson ; Lothair, scarlet, shaded purplish 
violet; Madame Henderson, rose ; Souvenir de Berryer, rosy salmon ; 
and Jessie Laird, white, violet crimson eye. Polentillas are not so 
often seen as they deserve to be. Some of the best are Yelours 
Pourpre, purple ; Louis Yan Houtte, crimson ; Alfred Salter, scarlet 
and orange ; Eldorado, purple, edged yellow ; purpurea plena, crim¬ 
son purple; Toussand, L’Ouverture, bright purple; La Yesuve, red, 
edged yellow ; Cameleon, purple, striped yellow ; Chromatella, yellow ; 
California, golden yellow ; Panorama, yellow and light purple ; 
Hamlet, crimson ; and Mars, maroon. Pentstemons have been much 
improved of late years ; and though requiring the protection of a 
frame in winter make a fine display in the borders, and are useful in 
affording a supply of flowers. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Oi chkls .—A number of the East Indian species are now growing, 
and a temperature of 70° at night, falling 5° on cold nights, will be 
necessary, and 80° by day. Yentilate from 75° more or less on fine 
days from about 9 A.M. to 3.30 p.m. Shading is also necessary, and 
of such description as to exclude the fierce rays of the sun. Roller 
blinds are the best, as permanent shading produces a weakly growth 
in the plants. Early in the morning and again on fine afternoons 
syringe the plants, but avoid wetting the flowers, especially of 
Phalsenopsids. Syringe plants on blocks two or three times a day, 
and keep the surface of the pots damped. Dendrobiums require more 
water at the roots, but it must be carefully afforded or the roots 
will perish, especially in the case of overpotted plants. Such kinds as 
D. Cambridgeanum, D. Devonianum, D. Parishii, D. Wardianum, and 
many others succeed best in baskets suspended from the roof; but 
free growers, such as D. densiflorum and D. Farmeri, are best in pots. 
Cattleyas in growth must have plenty of moisture, separating them 
from those at rest. C. gigas and C. Dowiana should have a day 
temperature of G0° to 70°, never less than 55°. Continue to top- 
dress and repot any plants making fresh growth. Let C. labiata and 
Lselia elegans have the warmest part of the Cattleya house, affording 
good drainage and the best fibrous peat. Repot Anguloas and 
Lycastes, employing a mixture of equal parts peat, sphagnum, and 
charcoal the size of hazel nuts. They require plenty of water at the 
roots and must have good drainage. Burlingtonias may be grown in 
deep baskets, with large lumps of charcoal and sphagnum, and 
suspended in the East India house, affording plenty of moisture. 
Keep Barkerias cool and damp, as a dry atmosphere is injurious ; 
syringe two or three times a day. Cypripediums must have plenty 
of water, or the plants and flowers will suffer, particularly C. cau- 
datum. Coelogyne cristata starting into growth should be syringed 
frequently, and when fresh roots are formed supply water liberally. 
Shade Miltonias, and sponge the leaves to remove scale. Fumigate 
frequently to destroy thrips. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
GREENHOUSES. 
Greenhouses and conservatories are now very gay, but the 
easterly winds accompanied with scorching sunshine has shortened 
the duration of many floweis considerably, and has encouraged the 
rapid spread of insect pests, notably green fly. Fumigation with 
tobacco is perhaps the most generally effective remedy, but this 
proves injurious to the expanded blooms of Azaleas, Deutzias, Cyti- 
suses, and Pelargoniums, and these should be either transferred to a 
pit or other house, or be placed on the floor of the house and screened 
with mats. The house should be fumigated in the evening, taking 
