JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 5, 1381. ] 
363 
abundantly supplied with water, for if allowed to become too dry a 
check will be given, causing the fruit to drop. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Orchids. —For about four months forward most of the plants will 
be growing. Increase the temperature in the East Indian house to 
from 70® to 90° by day and 65° to 70° at night; Cattleya house (35° to 
75° by day and 00° to 05° by night, and in the Odontoglossum house 
to 55° at night and (50° to 70° by day. Shading will be required as the 
season advances; and as air will be required at the same time the 
shading material must be kept from closing the openings for ventila¬ 
tion by having laths fixed to the roof, so as to allow a space of about 
3 inches between the shading material and the glass. Aerides, Phalge- 
nopses, Saccolabiums, and Yandas must be constantly moist, and 
their foliage cleaned by frequent spongings. Cymbidiums requiring 
repotting should be placed in rough peat with small lumps of char¬ 
coal, giving good drainage, as plentiful supplies of water are required. 
Examine Stanhopeas frequently, and if at all dry soak them in tepid 
water, and any that are starting into growth should have the moss 
renewed. Yery little if any fire heat will be required for the cool 
Orchids for the next four months, the difficulty in hot weather being 
to keep them cool enough. Some Odontoglossums, such as O. citros- 
mum, O. hastilabium, and O. naevium, require a little more heat 
than others, and should be placed at the warmer end of the house. 
Lycastes require similar treatment, but Masdevallias should be given 
the coolest part. Orchids required for conservatory decoration or 
exhibition should be gradually prepared for the change, placing 
them in a house with a north aspect and a temperature of 50°, water 
being gradually withheld so that the sphagnum is just moist. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
TREATMENT OF BEDDING PLANTS. 
Many of the hardier bedding plants may now be permanently 
planted out. This will give them a good start—those especially 
which have to be freely divided before hot dry weather is expe¬ 
rienced, and will also admit of the glass employed during the winter 
for their protection being utilised for hardening off other more tender 
kinds. Echeveria secunda glauca is most effective when disposed 
in the margins of raised beds. They should be placed to face out¬ 
wards, and the ordinary soil, if made tolerably firm, will keep them 
in position without clay. If scarce they may be disposed thinly 
with either Sedum glaucum or Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica inter¬ 
spersed. An inner line of Golden Pyrethrum contrasts well with 
the Echeverias, and the beds can then be filled with either the ordi¬ 
nary bedding plants or carpeting plants. The Pyrethrum is parti¬ 
cularly suited for marking the lines in carpet beds, and if large 
enough may be dibbled in at once, choosing a dull day for the opera¬ 
tion. They should be put in thickly, say about 2 inches apart, the 
aim being to secure a fine line rather than large plants. What is 
technically termed the “ groundwork,” in other words the spaces 
between the figures of the design, is usually filled with close-growing 
plants, such as the Mentha, Sedums, Herniaria glabra, and occasion¬ 
ally Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. All with the ex¬ 
ception of the latter may be divided into very small pieces, this in 
preference to large patches, and be dibbled in so they touch each 
other. The soil should be very fine and rather light, level, and firm, 
or otherwise the effect will be marred. To avoid undue trampling 
during the operation of filling the beds work upon planks, blocking 
these up clear from the soil. The brighter-coloured tender plants 
to be filled in early in June. 
Autumn-struck bedding Pelargoniums that are well established in 
either pots or boxes may, if frames are unavailable, be placed on 
ashes in a warm sheltered position, and covered during frosty or cold 
wet weather with mats or other protecting material, supported by a 
temporarily erected framework. They should be watered rather 
sparingly when first turned out. Pelargoniums are best potted off 
singly into 3-inch pots, and should have the preference, as such kinds 
as Lobelias, Pyrethrums, Yerbenas, Ageratums, Heliotropes, Petunias, 
Iresines, and Alternantheras not only grow more freely in boxes, but 
can also be transplanted readily from them. Avoid using deep boxes, 
especially for the two last named. These and Coleus Y erschaffelti 
may be propagated till the end of May, and very frequently these 
late-struck plants start into growth more freely than do others which 
may have been in cold frames for some time previous to being planted. 
Mesembryanthemums should be potted-off singly into small CO’s ; but 
as these, Coleus, Iresines, and Alternantheras are the last to be 
planted, the pots previously filled with the Pelargoniums may be 
utilised for many of these, as the plants will quickly become esta¬ 
blished if placed in a gentle heat after being potted. 
The dwarf bedding Tropaeolums of the Tom Thumb section must 
also be potted off singly in 3-inch or smaller pots, and the same 
size or larger for the variegated Maize. The bedding Amaranthuses 
are very tender, but in heat are quick-growing, and therefore if sown 
now may be eventually potted off singly and be ready for planting 
early in June. A. melancholicus ruber is a good substitute for Iresine 
Herbstii, and A. Henderii includes some very pretty varieties suitable 
for the subtropical garden. Seedling Cannas may be potted off, and 
old roots that have started can easily be separated, potting the divi¬ 
sions ; or if the clumps are strong defer dividing till planting time. 
Similar remarks apply to Dahlias. Kicinus seeds germinate quickly, 
and if sown in gentle heat at the present time, and the young plants 
are potted off singly into 5-inch or 6-inch pots, they are soon fit for 
planting. Early sowing and early planting are injurious to Ricinuses. 
Eucalyptus globulus and Acacia lophantha should be potted into 
small 60’s, grown on in heat, and shifted into 5-inch or G-inch pots 
before becoming root-bound. The ornamental-foliaged Solanums 
may be treated similarly. Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, Zinnias, 
Godetias, Helichrysums, Dianthuses, Phloxes, and other annuals 
may either be pricked out in boxes or in a bed previously occupied 
with early Potatoes. To be successful with these prick them out 
before they become crowded, and plant them out when of good size. 
Many plants are injured by being raised early and afterwards kept in 
boxes till perhaps the flowers of some kinds are forming. 
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HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO USE COMB 
FOUNDATION. 
(Continued from page 344.) 
The fixing in the frames will next require attention, and if this 
be done with molten wax a most perfect tool can be easily made, 
and as follows : Gut a board (at least half an inch thick) slightly 
less in length and width than the inside measures of your frames, 
and across the back of it fix two battens cut so long that they 
project half an inch top and bottom. If this board be laid down 
the frame may be slipped over it, when the back of the frame will 
rest on the batten ends. If the sheet of foundation be now placed 
upon the board it will be found not to stand exactly in the middle 
of the width of the frame. To regulate this put four small screws 
into the projecting portions of the battens, and turn them down 
until the sheet standing on the board is in accurate position with 
regard to the frame which is now resting on the screw heads. 
The foundation, either in sheets half an inch less each way than 
the frame, inside measure, or in strips for guides only, is brought 
against the top bar when the board is held in the hand with the top 
bar of the frame downwards and inclined to the horizon. If now a 
few drops of molten wax are allowed to fall at the upper end and 
at the point where the sheet meets the top bar, the wax will run, 
and, almost immediately setting, our foundation will be securely 
fixed in accurate position. To prevent cracking a little care is 
needed. The board is brought to the perpendicular ; and now, but 
not till now, the frame may be removed and hung in a spare hive 
until required. Wax should not, in my judgment, be used on both 
sides. One side is sufficient, and no breakdown can ever occur if 
care be taken and the wax used hot enough. Waxing on both 
sides leads sometimes to disaster, because the form of the founda¬ 
tion is in part obliterated as the wax runs over it, and hence the bees 
do not there so quickly build out the cell walls. From this cause 
the comb is occasionally left thin at top on both sides, and if 
heavily stored below is apt.to break away. It is desirable to 
damp "the board to prevent the wax which may reach it from 
adhering. A glue-pot may be used for melting the wax, and a 
spoon is passably convenient for applying it, but those possessing 
many hives would do well to purchase a little article called a 
