JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 12, 1881.] 
production both of exhibition and of stock birds. The consider¬ 
ations affecting these are various, and differ in some points while 
agreeing in others. No general rules available for both sexes or 
for all the breeds can be given ; but a broad line of distinction 
may be drawn between those breeds in which size is of primary 
importance and those in which it is not, and this will suffice for 
our purpose. 
The large breeds, especially the Asiatics, take a long time to 
mature, and the cockerels take longer than the pullets. It is only 
by very early hatching that large size can be attained in the first 
year. The best known breeders of Brahmas, for example, take 
care to have a number of January chickens to select cockerels 
from, and even at the late shows cockerels hatched after March 
have very little chance. It is equally important for the breeding 
pen that the cockerels should be as matured as possible. It may 
therefore be laid down as a general rule that cockerels of the large 
breeds should be hatched as early as possible—certainly during 
the first three months of the year. As to the pullets the case is 
somewhat different. Not only do they naturally mature earlier, 
but it is also more difficult to retard the maturing process wifh 
them. Cockerels may be kept growing, but early-hatched pullets 
will insist upon laying some time in the autumn. This is a dis¬ 
advantage in two ways. In the first place, a laying pullet soon 
loses condition and that bloom which is such an attraction ; and 
in the second place, she probably will lay herself out before the 
eggs are required for the early hatching. Of course for the early 
shows early-hatched pullets as well as cockerels are a necessity, 
but the really important shows come late in the year; and for 
these, as also for providing eggs for early hatching, pullets hatched 
in March and April are best. 
A great deal towards hastening or retarding the maturity of a 
bird may be done by judicious feeding. As to this we shall have 
a word or two to say later, but we may here refer to the other 
means usually adopted to retard maturity. The cockerels and 
pullets are in all cases separated when about two months old, and 
are kept not only separate but out of sight of each other. An 
old cock is sometimes put to run with the cockerels to keep them 
under and prevent squabbling, but unless he be well chosen and 
free from much tendency to bullying the youngsters, this some¬ 
times does more harm than good. It is best that only cockerels 
of nearly the same age should run together, and the younger they 
are when first put together the less will be the chance of any 
quarrelling. A dozen cockerels in a moderate-sized run with an 
occasional change of run will do better than a larger number in 
an unlimited space. 
The pullets are more easily managed in some respects, but the 
great difficulty with them is to retard their laying so long as to 
give them time to mature, and at the same time not to drive them 
into a moult or materially injure their laying qualities. Here, 
apart from feeding, the most successful method is to move them 
from run to run as they show signs of laying. Even with laying 
hens a move to a strange yard generally checks the laying for a 
few days, and the effect is more marked with pullets which have 
not laid. This must not be carried too far, or a moult may be 
brought on, and the bird thus rendered useless both for exhibition 
and early laying. 
We may mention here that some exhibitors manage to attain 
great size the first year by moulting out their early hatched 
chickens before the great shows. Chickens as a rule only moult 
their chicken feathers gradually, and once they have attained 
their adult plumage retain it until their second year, when they 
of course have a regular moult. Asiatics grow a good deal at the 
time of their first regular moult, and by inducing a regular moult 
in the first year great size can be attained. This can only in the 
case of January-hatched chickens be done in time to get the birds 
moulted out for the great shows. They are allowed to mature 
tolerably early, and then by feeding and heat a moult is induced. 
It is risky work at best, and the birds lose in freshness what they 
gain in size, so that we prefer the other method. 
Although for the purposes of the coming year late-hatched 
birds are of little use, still it must be remembered that Asiatics 
continue to grow, or rather make a new growth in their second 
year. We have known late-hatched cockerels which were appa¬ 
rently far too small and defective in colour turn out really fine 
birds after their first adult moult. Very late-hatched chickens 
sometimes retain a part of their chicken feathers, and thus appear 
defective in colour, which is apt to mislead beginners. If, there¬ 
fore, chickens from some of the best birds cannot be got early 
enough to mature in the same year, it is well to hatch some later, 
and keep them over for use after their first adult moult. 
Another matter as to which beginners require a word of caution 
is as to the relative importance of the earlier and later shows. A 
really promising bird should not be forced on to maturity to win 
389 
a prize or two early in the season at the sacrifice of his chances 
later on, and also to the detriment of his ultimate development. 
Birds thus forced on are almost invariably spoiled, and the ex¬ 
perienced exhibitors only sacrifice their mediocre birds for the 
early shows, keeping the really good ones for the Palace and 
Birmingham, where the winning of a prize is of some account and 
not at once forgotten. 
The breeds in which size is not regarded as of primary impor¬ 
tance are more easily managed. As to these, the best plan as a 
rule is to hatch the chickens in March and April, when they are 
most easily reared and come in well for all the most important 
shows. Of course, those who desire to compete at the very early 
shows must have a few chickens before March ; and where there is 
any special point which requires time for its complete develop¬ 
ment, such as the face of the Spanish birds, the early chickens 
have the best chance, but with these exceptions the March and 
April birds do best both for show purposes and the breeding pen. 
Bantams require a special word or two. Here small size is an 
important matter, so that late hatching and early maturity are 
the points to be aimed at. April, May, and even June are the 
best months for the Bantams. They are in this way suitable for 
keeping with the larger breeds where variety is desired,.as the 
hatching seasons do not to any extent clash with each other. 
(To be continued.) 
TURKEY REARING. 
When the young Turkeys appear in the outer world do not 
lift up the old hen to see how many eggs have hatched, but re¬ 
strain your desire to count your Turkeys, and let them alone for 
at least twenty-four hours. They will not require food during 
that time, and as they are very delicate when first hatched it is 
best to avoid handling until they get strong on their feet ; then 
remove them with the mother hen to the coop and pen, which 
should be all ready for the occupants. 
The coop must be of good size, slant-roofed, and tight enough 
to keep out rain. Where the ground is not wet, and the coop can 
be placed so that the rain will not wash under it, it will not be 
necessary to have a floor in the coop ; but if you have any doubts 
about being able to keep the young Turkeys dry and comfortable 
during a rainy spell, you had better put in a board floor and 
cover with gravel or sand, which should be renewed as often as 
every other day. When the mother Turkey is left to herself she 
chooses a new resting place every night, and when you confine 
her in a coop you must imitate her example and give her a clean 
place by moving or cleaning the coop often. 
Make a pen or yard in front of the coop by placing boards on 
edge and fastening them in position. This pen should be from 
15 to 18 inches in height, and for a family of fifteen young 
Turkeys should enclose about 40 square feet. 
When safe in their house ” and yard give the little Turkeys 
their first meal, which should be stale wheaten breadcrumbs soaked 
in milk, and hard-boiled eggs. Now when I say hard-boiled eggs, 
I mean eggs that have been boiled half an hour. Boil an egg 
five minutes and it will be tough and indigestible, but boil it half 
an hour and it will be mealy and easily crumbled. When four 
or five days old commence feeding curds, and give all the sour 
milk they will drink. Chop Onion tops and Lettuce, and give 
with the food until they commence picking the young and tender 
grass. Twice or three times a week give a little pepper in the 
food. Pour boiling water on the pepper, steep a few minutes, 
and then mix a few spoonfuls of this pepper tea in the food. Do 
not make too strong, too much pepper does more harm than good. 
When they are from a week to ten days old commence adding 
well-cooked corn meal to their daily food, increasing the quantity 
day by day until at five or six weeks they are able to take full 
rations of meal and boiled Potatoes. When six or eight weeks 
old vou may feed cracked corn or Wheat screenings at night. 
From the time when you commence feeding the young Turkeys 
until after they are fully feathered and have thrown out the red 
on their heads, feed five or six times a day ; then if insects be 
plenty they will thrive on two meals a day—cooked corn meal 
and Potatoes in the morning, and cracked corn or other grain at 
night. Sometimes grasshoppers are so numerous that Turkeys 
will thrive on a small ration of grain once a day, and some seasons 
I have turned my young Turkeys (after they were well feathered 
up) out without any breakfast, and they always came home at 
night with full crops ; but I always threw them a few handfuls 
of grain to keep them in the habit of coming home to roost. 
Keep your Turkeys growing from the start if you expect them to 
pay well when you send them to market. Do not imagine that you 
can half starve them until a few weeks before thanksgiving, and 
