JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 19, 1881. ] 
405 
or ridges should be formed, and flattened at the top so as to give a 
depth of soil of 10 inches, and when this is warmed plants may be 
placed out at 30 to 36 inches distance apart, giving a good supply 
of water at a temperature of 90°. Train with one stem, not stopping 
until the plant has run two-thirds the distance allotted to it, and then 
take out its point. Remove every alternate lateral ; if those retained 
do not show fruit at the second or third joint pinch out their points, 
and fruit will show freely upon the secondary laterals. Supply 
water as required to prevent flagging, and maintain a genial condition 
of the atmosphere by damping available surfaces in the morning, and 
syringing about 3.30 P.M. Yentilate from 75°, maintaining the tem¬ 
perature at 80° to 8o° with sun heat through the day, closing at 80°, 
but do not allow the temperature to advance much above 90°. When 
the flowers are expanding discontinue syringing, damping the house in 
the morning and early afternoon of bright days. When three or 
four pistillate flowers are expanded fertilise them, stopping the shoots 
one joint beyond the fruit, and continue this daily until four to six 
fruits on a plant are set and swelling, then reduce the fruits to the 
number required : very strong plants may carry six, and propor¬ 
tionately less according to their vigour. Very little growth will be 
made if the plants have a full crop, but all laterals must be 
kept closely stopped. Every encouragement must now be given 
to swelling-off the crop, pursuing the treatment as advised prior to 
setting, watering occasionally with tepid liquid manure. Support 
should be given to the fruit in good time, and when ripening has 
commenced supply water only to prevent flagging, and omit the 
syringing. The above resume may be useful for those having 
houses or pits which can be put to this use. 
Cucumbers .—The nights have been cold, and necessitated the con¬ 
tinuance of fires ; but the days have been bright, requiring great care 
in ventilating. Morning syringing is not desirable, but abundant 
atmospheric moisture must be secured by damping, and the syringing 
should be done early in the afternoon. Careful attention will require 
to be given to shading, so as to prevent flagging, and yet employ it 
no more than is absolutely necessary. Copious supplies of liquid 
manure will be required, and surface-rooting should be encouraged 
by removing any loose surface soil and supplying fresh lumpy soil. 
Remove exhausted growths, stopping the shoots one or two joints 
beyond the fruit, and thin where necessary to prevent overcrowding. 
Night coverings will still be necessary for pits and frames, and lining 
to the sides of the frames, &c., for the maintenance of the top heat. 
Any frames or pits at liberty may have the beds renovated for young 
Cucumber plants, which will afford fruit through the summer. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—Tabernaemontanas are growing freely, and should receive 
more water. These useful flowering plants are often grown in too 
much heat, as they do not require so much as Ixoras. The latter are 
producing their flowers, and should if required for conservatory deco¬ 
ration be prepared for the change by affording them all the light 
possible with moderate ventilation. Bougainvillea glabra intended 
for the conservatory should be moved from the stove before the first 
flowers have attained their full size. Allamandas may be employed 
in a similar manner. Other stove plants intended for conservatory 
decoration or exhibition should be gradually subjected for a few days 
to a little lower temperature with plenty of light. Any that have 
been plunged in bottom heat must be removed from it some weeks 
before they are taken from the stove, but when required for such 
purposes or for affording cut flowers the plants ought not to be 
placed in bottom heat. Dracaenas grown in quantity for conservatory 
or room decoration should be transferred to cooler quarters. See 
that they are kept free of red spider, which is a serious disfigure¬ 
ment to the foliage if its progress is not arrested. Tuberous Begonias 
that were started early and grown on in this structure should also be 
gradually hardened, similar remarks applying to Gloxinias. Seedlings 
of either of these plants that were sown early should be potted 
singly, grown on in a genial temperature near the glass with shade 
from powerful sun, and if well attended to in summer they will make 
fine decorative plants by autumn. Small specimens of such plants as 
Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, Clerodendrons, Gardenias, and other free- 
growing plants that were potted early and have filled the pots with 
roots should be shifted into pots about two sizes larger, accord¬ 
ing to the vigour of the plants and the purpose they are intended 
for. All twining stove plants and climbers should be examined 
once a week, so as to keep their young shoots from becoming 
entangled. 
Celosia pyramidalis vars. are fine for summer and autumn decora¬ 
tion of the conservatory, and up to the end of the year in warmer 
quarters. Sow in gentle heat, and pot off the plants obtained singly 
when large enough ; keep them rather close until established, when 
they will succeed in an intermediate temperature. Pinch out the 
first flowers, and keep the plants near the glass to induce a sturdy 
habit. Syringe to keep down red spider. Pots 6 or 7 inches in 
diameter will be large enough for useful decorative plants. "When¬ 
ever aphides or thrips are seen the house should be fumigated. 
Ferns .—Such useful Ferns as Adiantum cuneatum, A. formosum, 
A. pubescens, A. gracillimum, Pteris serrulata, P. umbrosa, Lomarias, 
&c., may be grown in quantity for the conservatory, decorative 
purposes, and cutting. Continue potting young plants, which are 
usually abundant in ferneries and stoves. Place the plants in small 
pots, and when established let them have a position where they will 
make stout growth ; for though the fronds are paler in colour, if 
grown in plenty of light they are much more enduring, lasting 
double the time that those grown in a shaded and close atmosphere do. 
By attending to potting the seedlings two or three times a year a 
stock will be maintained of a size suitable for decoration or shifting 
on. Most Ferns are in active growth, and require frequent and 
copious supplies of water. Any in small pots for the size of the 
plants may have liquid manure once a week, and if care be taken to 
have it clear and weak it will not only improve the size of the fronds 
but enable a fine growth to be made without increasing the size of 
the pots. Tree Ferns employed to decorate structures where the 
temperature is cooler and drier than the fernery must not be removed 
whilst making the growth, or the fronds will be injured. 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The cold bright dry weather recently experienced, although un¬ 
favourable to the active growth of vegetables, has offered good 
opportunities for the extermination of all weeds, and thereby saving 
much labour that would otherwise be necessary. Frequent hoeings, 
besides destroying weeds, are very beneficial to the advancing crops, 
and will also to a certain extent prevent the soil cracking. Where 
the seedling Broccoli, Kales, Savoys, and other similar vegetables 
have been destroyed by insect pests (and this has happened to two 
sowings in some localities), it is advisable to sow the remainder of 
the seed in boxes, and place them in frames or under handlights in 
the open. The plants thus obtained must be pricked out when in 
rough leaf and before becoming drawn, choosing showery weather 
for the operation, and giving the preference to a border the soil of 
which is fine and light. The plants of this sowing may be pricked 
out about 4 inches apart each way, and as they can then be lifted 
with a good ball of earth, not much time will be lost. Treat 
in the same way any plants that are crowded either in boxes or 
seed beds. 
Peas for the late crops ought now to be sown, Hair’s Dwarf 
Mammoth, Veitch’s Perfection, and Premier being suitable varieties. 
Excellent tall late Peas are Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen, and 
Williams’ Emperor of the Marrows, giving the preference to the 
first mentioned. In dry localities, or where the soil is poor and thin, 
it is advisable to prepare trenches as for Celery. These may be 
18 inches wide. The first spit of soil being thrown on each side, a 
liberal quantity of good manure is forked into the bottom spit, half 
of the first spit is returned to the trench; the whole is then made 
firm, the seed sown and covered with more of the soil first thrown 
out. The Peas thus have a greater depth of soil and abundance of 
manure to root in, and being in a trench can be readily and heavily 
watered as required. In some gardens by no other means can the 
attacks of mildew be prevented. 
Lettuces ought now to be sown where they are to remain. By 
sowing frequently on well-enriched ground and thinning early and 
