JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
426 
healthy, and well-flowered. Many plants were certificated, and will 
be described next week. 
CARPET BEDDING. 
The design for a carpet bed, which is shown on fig. 95, is quite 
different in style to the one published last week. Provision is 
made for a large groundwork of green, which is always a pleasant 
relief for the brighter colours. A proposed mode of planting is 
Fig. 95. 
submitted, but the arrangement can be varied according to the 
plants at command. As will be seen, a choice of plants is afforded 
for some of the panels, any one of which will be suitable for the 
positions indicated. 
1. Alternanthera amoena. 
2. Sempervivum montanum, Pachyphytum bracteosum, or Kleinia repens. 
3. Leucopliyton Brownii. 
4. Pyrethrum (Golden Feather). 
5. Mentha, Herniaria repens, or Veronica Loudoniaua. 
C. Alternanthera of any kind. 
7. Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum. 
8. Alternanthera amoena. or any other dark variety. 
9. Echeveria secunda glauca, or Sedum glaucum. 
THE FRUIT CROP. 
I AM very glad to see that Mr. Taylor is interesting himself as 
to the amount of damage done to hardy fruit trees by excessive 
[ May 26, 1881. 
winter frosts. All know of the damage done to shrubs and ever¬ 
greens. It is my opinion that the damage is not so serious this 
year as last, the wood being in better condition ; but it is a very 
great mistake to suppose that all Apples and Pears can stand 39° 
of frost during winter with impunity. But that some varieties 
can stand it I readily believe. Now is the time to make our 
observations. Understand, it is not the actual embryo fruit bud 
that is injured by severe frost in winter, but it is injury done to 
the wood that prevents the sap flowing to support the young 
fruit that results in the crop failing. The tender Pears I have no 
hope of, but the Hessle and such Apples as Lord Suffield I have 
little dread of. Let us all be careful observers, and be slow to 
be of that army always to the front with their variable excuses. 
To read some reports one would be led to think that Nature had 
made no provision whatever either against winds, rains, or other 
climatic changes. Here we have had rather severe frosts lately : 
but as all was dry Apples, Pears, and Gooseberries were not in 
the slightest injured.— Joseph Witherspoon, Chester-le-Street, 
Durham. 
i 
iSssSufy 
WORK/oiuhe WEEK.. \ 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Every crop is in a very backward state, and yet the germination 
of seeds has been wonderful considering the ungenial weather. 
Every effort should be made to keep the hoe at work in dry weather 
between the rows of root crops, so that the growth may not be 
impeded by weeds. Sow late Peas in a well-enriched piece of ground. 
Ne Plus Ultra and Emperor of the Marrows are fine varieties. Con¬ 
tinue to earth-up and place sticks to advancing crops of Peas as they 
become ready. Broad Beans also should be slightly earthed, and a 
successional sowing made. Sowing Beet must not be longer deferred, 
and there is yet time for Scorzonera and Salsafy. Another sowing of 
Scarlet Runners may be made between now and the beginning of 
June, also Dwarf Kidney or Prench Beans. Turnips owing to the dry 
weather have suffered from the Turnip fly, but this has been kept 
under by dustings of quicklime when the plants were wet with dew. 
A sowing of Cauliflowers should be made from the 20th to the 24th 
for late use, and for lifting to plant in frames to afford a supply in 
severe weather. As Potatoes advance in growth keep the soil drawn 
up to them, and if necessary, where they are planted wide, fork 
between the rows, and plant out Brussels Sprouts, <tc. Seed of Sweet 
Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and other herbs may yet be sown on a sheltered 
border. Chicory for affording roots to be placed in a Mushroom 
house to give blanched heads for winter salading, should now be 
sown in rows 12 to 15 inches apart, thinning to 9 to 12 inches distance. 
Asparagus-cutting will be in operation daily, and if it be necessary 
to have recourse to cutting any that will be required for forcing, it 
must not be continued for a long period, or the roots will be so 
weakened as to be unfit for forcing next season. The planting-out 
of early crops of Celery may be proceeded with in beds 4£ feet wfide, 
placing the plants across the beds 12 inches asunder, in rows 15 inches 
apart. Make successional sowings of Turnips, Spinach, Radishes, and 
Lettuce to insure the succession unbroken. Rhubarb should have all 
flower stems removed, and in order to secure a fine growth supply 
liquid manure libeially, and mulch with partially decayed manure. 
Seakale also should have any flower stems and any blanching material 
removed when the heads are cut, and the ground pointed over. At¬ 
tenuated crowns may be cut back with advantage. Mulching or 
surface dressings 2 or 3 inches thick of partially decayed manure is 
a commendable practice, especially in light shallow soils, and is of 
great benefit to Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers, and other crops. 
Supply water liberally to Carrots in frames, and draw out when 
ready every alternate one. Supply water and liquid manure to 
French Beans in pots or in pits abundantly, and keep the pods 
closely picked. Forward in pits or otherwise the growth of Capsi¬ 
cums, shifting them into larger pots as necessary, and keep them 
free from aphides. Harden Tomatoes in frames preparatory to plant¬ 
ing them out of doors. Proceed with planting out ridge Cucumbers 
