JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
436 
[ June 2, 1881. 
will be well spent. Five thousand guineas from five thousand 
gardeners added to its present income and expended at Chis¬ 
wick under its present able management would make it (if, 
indeed, it is not that already), the most interesting spot in the 
horticultural world, and give the subscribers a pleasure such as 
they can scarcely obtain elsewhere so cheaply. — Wm. Taylor. 
FILLING FLOWER BEDS. 
Those who are in the habit of doing certain work at a certain 
and early date are liable at times to be forcibly reminded that 
ours is a very variable climate, and to find when early planting 
has been done that it would have been wise to have been less 
hasty in their operations. Many have already planted the greater 
part of their tender bedding plants with the result really of loss 
of time, as the cold frosty nights succeeding clear hot days most 
injuriously affects the previously sheltered plants. Those pro¬ 
bably who commence bedding-out the first week in June, com¬ 
pleting the work during the next week, will at the end of the 
month be the most forward. 
The stock of plants with many appears to be limited in extent; 
in this case mixed planting will have to be resorted to, and 
probably will be found, if judiciously carried out, to give more 
pleasure than the blaze of colour obtained by massing one variety. 
The mixed plan is best suited to large beds, the smaller beds 
being most effective when planted with one or two kinds of 
compact habit. 
In many instances much judgment is required in the selection 
of suitable kinds of plants for certain positions. For instance, 
Verbenas during an average season would inevitably fail if 
planted in any other but a somewhat rich retentive soil, and the 
Violas are equally moisture-loving. Petunias, the single varieties 
especially, thrive admirably in a somewhat poor and dry position. 
The stronger-growing Pelargoniums, both single and double, 
should have a dry position, or they will grow vigorously at the 
expense of the bloom. Calceolarias will fail in a poor soil and 
hot position, but good substitutes—namely, Tagetes signata pu- 
mila and the miniature French Marigolds, are not so particular in 
this respect. The soil should not be heavy and close for Iresines, 
Coleuses, Alternantheras, and similar exotics. Lobelias will not 
long continue to flower in a poor dry position, but the Golden 
Pyrethrum will thrive almost anywhere. Plants of a succulent 
nature succeed best in a light open soil. Such annuals as Asters, 
Stocks, Zinnias, Phloxes, and Dianthuses should have a tolerably 
rich soil. The three first named are very effective when dotted 
among beds of Verbenas, Phloxes, and Petunias, which latter 
will have completely filled the beds by the time the Asters and 
Stocks have ceased flowering. The bronze, silver, and golden 
variegated Pelargoniums are very effective when interspersed 
with Violas and purple Verbenas—notably V. venosa ; and so also 
in similar positions are the white and yellow Paris Daisies, Abu- 
tilon Thompsoni, and Veronica Andersonii variegata. 
In the mixed borders it is very important that the different 
varieties are planted according to their respective heights, and if 
the o'her line consists of one variety such as Pyrethrum, Lobelia, 
and Cerastium, the effect will be improved. No plant should be 
put out with its ball of earth in a dry state, and as a rule after 
firmly fixing the plants the soil should not be levelled about 
them till a good watering has been given. By thus enclosing 
moisture further cold, and oftentimes useless, waterings are un¬ 
called for. 
Carpet beds to be a success must be well done, and as they 
require a great number of neat-growing plants few amateurs 
aspire to them. Much, however, may be done with a quantity 
of small Pyrethrum for the fine lines, Sedum glaucum and Mentha 
for the groundwork, and Alternanthera of sorts, Oxalis rubra, 
Iresine Lin deni (pegged down), and Coleus Verschaffeltii for 
filling in the principal figures of the design. A complicated design 
should not be attempted by beginners ; and in this case, by using 
hardy plants for marking out the design and for the groundwork, 
the beds may easily be refilled with other hardy plants for the 
winter.—A Flower Gardener. 
APPLE AND PEAR BLOSSOM IN WILTS—FRUIT 
TREE CULTURE. 
I have seldom seen so splendid a floral display on Apple and 
Pear trees as has been on the latter, and is on the former as I 
write this eighteenth day of May. How well we can understand 
the motive of our ancestors in mingling the flower garden and the 
general fruit garden. As an old writer remarks in some such 
words as these, “ Verily the Apple tree is beauteous at two seasons— 
when covered with blossom, and when laden with fruit.” This is 
one reason why I have always advocated the partial admission of 
Apple trees, Pear trees, and Cherry trees into thinly planted 
shrubberies near a house. This year the blossoms have no pinched 
or withery look, but each petal is at its best. Last summer the 
trees had a rest and the sun was powerful, so the wood was well 
ripened, hence the result in abundant blossom, and I trust a further 
and fuller and more satisfactory result in fruit. 
To speak of Pears first. All save Josephine de Malines have 
bloomed abundantly, and these trees I must attack at the roots. I 
would premise that I grow all my pyramids naturally, never cut¬ 
ting a branch unless it crosses another. I have nothing whatever 
to do with summer-pruning or winter-pruning ; as the tree comes 
from the nursery so it grows, forming in some cases elegant 
pyramids, in others diffuse and spreading trees : of course I prefer 
the former. The result as to growth is that all my trees are thin, 
none are close bushes, but so thin that the sun warms all the wood 
and the air reaches every part. That this is the best and most 
profitable mode of growing pyramids every year makes me more 
certain. Old, possibly prejudiced, gardeners have seen them, and 
confess that I am right and the old mode is wrong. In regard to 
one method of checking undue growth I am a Spartan—viz., root- 
pruning. Thus in a strong-growing tree, whether Apple or Pear, I 
am unsparing ; to such an extent sometimes that I have to stake 
the trees to keep them from being blown down. But the result is 
always satisfactory. Thus I have a Beurre Hardy, a Beurrfi Diel.and 
a Beurre d’Amanlis which have been fruitless, and the first-named 
without even a blossom until this year, and it is covered, as also 
the others. What I do when a tree refuses to bear, even when 
very severely root-pruned, I will detail when I come to speak of 
Apples. One fine Pear I find much liable to injury by frost—-that 
is Napoleon ; while the blossom of others near appears uninjured 
by an April frost, its blooms are turned into the colour of tea 
leaves. 
I have every Apple tree covered with blossom except Peasgood’s 
Nonsuch, which as yet has declined to show more than here and 
there a bloom, and has not fruited. All the others except a 
few of those planted last year are in full floral beauty. As to the 
newly planted, I am always glad when they simply grow at first, 
but bloom in after years. 
I have spoken of root-pruning to so great a degree as to necessi¬ 
tate the staking of the trees for at least the year after. But 
occasionally I resort to stronger measures. Thus I have a Dume- 
low’s Seedling Apple which reached me five years ago last autumn, 
as most of that kind do, a picture as to symmetrical form. It 
instantly commenced growing, but was fruitless. By a mistake 
it was heavily manured—it grew, of course, still stronger ; I root- 
pruned it, but still it grew. In November, 1879, I removed it 
ten or a dozen yards, cutting the roots severely and supporting 
it by three stakes. Last year it was in feeble health, the desired 
check had been given ; this year it is a mass of bloom. I 
measured the tree and found it 12 feet in height, and the lowest 
tier of branches right across being about 11 feet. Its propor¬ 
tions and pyramidical form are very pleasing. I was urged to 
prune it but declined, being quite sure that if I keep a tree 
thin, in time fruit spurs will form on every branch. This year I 
have my reward, for there is blossom at regular intervals on its 
leader and on every branch. From such a tree so managed I 
expect to have a heavy crop, not merely a few as in small and 
close-pruned trees. As to this variety, Dumelow’s Seedling or 
Wellington, I do not find any other its equal in health and value 
of fruit. I often wish that its opposite as to season. Lord Suffield, 
was equally strong in wood and growth. Ecklinville Seedling is 
my next favourite, then Stirling Castle, while among eating 
Apples Irish Peach and Cox’s Orange Pippin reign supreme. I 
find hardy fruit culture so interesting that I loDg to have more 
room for experiments than can be allowed in a parson’s garden. 
I find that excellent Apple, Summer Golden PippiD, a shy 
bearer. Is that the experience of other growers?— Wiltshire 
Rector. 
P.S.—I noticed with much interest in the Journal of May 19th 
the account of the unpruned Pear tiees at Wimbledon House. In 
our competition with America it strikes me as a great point to 
grow all our fruit trees as large as possible, particularly our 
pyramids, inasmuch as on size of tree depends largeness of crop. 
A small pruned pyramid may produce a dozen or more Apples or 
Pears, while an unpruned one produces many dozens ; hence size 
is so valuable. Give with that beauty, utility, and largeness of 
fruit, and you have a chance of doing something; also the tree 
must be healthy. 
Pyrus Mauler — I can fully corroborate Mr. Charley’s re¬ 
marks with reference to this handsome Japanese shrub both as to 
