January is, 1882 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 41 
Lemon Pippin is of a fine golden colour, and as stated in the “ Fruit Manual ” a 
very good Apple either for culinary or dessert use, and is of a fine golden colour. 
It is not common, but well worth growing. 
Riverside Shrubs (Rex'). —Either the common Osier (Salix viminalis), 
or the common Alder (Alnus glutinosa), will be suitable if cut annually or as 
needed. A smaller Willow (Salix undulata), requires little or nc cutting, and 
the growths are useless. 
Seedling Apple (IF. C. & Sms ).— The Apple is of no commercial value; 
it is not good enough for dessert, nor large enough for culinary purposes. 
Cordon Apple Trees (J. R. C .).—It is quite immaterial which way the 
trees slant, as you may perceive by observing that the branches of a fan-trained 
tree succeed alike on both sides of the tree, although they are necessarily trained 
in opposite directions. For the sake of settling the point train them to the 
right. Plant them 18 inches apart, removing about one-third of the loader, or 
that portion not matured, and train them nearly upright the first year, rermit 
the leader to extend, pinching the side growths where they have produced five 
or six leaves, and the after growths from these even more closely. As the trees 
attain size depress them first to an angle of 60°, then the year following to -15°. 
If depressed in their early stages they do not extend so freely, while they grow 
too strongly near the base. Unless the growth is very luxuriant and cannot be 
subdued by pinching, lifting will not be needed ; but if a tree grows unusually 
strongly and does not form fruit buds, lifting is beneficial. We shall publish 
more on this subject in time to be of service to you. The best work you can 
obtain is Du Breuil’s “ Fruit Trees,” published by Lockwood & Co., 7, Stationers’ 
Hall Court, Ludgate Hill, London. 
Plants for Greenhouse Borders (Preston). —You have prepared the 
borders well, and many plants will succeed in them with otherwise good manage¬ 
ment. But it is not possible that you can have nearly so many “ flowers for 
cutting all the year round ” from borders aloue as if you also grew a number of 
plants in pots. For instance, you cannot grow such plants as Primulas, Cinerarias, 
Lily of the Valley, Spirceas, Pelargoniums, Heaths, Epacrises, Azaleas, aud various 
kinds of bulbs nearly so well in borders as in pots, nor produce such a long suppl> 
of the flowers. The Mardchal Niel and (Moire de Dijon Roses we presume you intend 
training up the roof, for which purpose they are admirably adapted, and you 
may safely add to them Cheshunt Hybrid. The roof, however, must not be 
covered, but the growths may be trained up the rafters without injury to the 
plants below ; 'so, also, might a Bougainvillea glabra, Plumbago capensis, Clero- 
dendrou Balfourianum, and possibly a Stephanotis would succeed in the tempe¬ 
rature you name. Those plants afford au abundance of flowers for cutting, and 
provided not more than one-third of the roof is shaded the plants below will 
flourish. The Tea Rose Homer, rose and salmon, is very good, and would succeed 
in your border; so also would Niphetos, Catherine Mermet, Marie Van Iloutte, 
Madame Falcot, Perle des Jardins, Innocente Pirola, Souvenir de Paul Neyron, 
and many other good varieties; Camellias in variety; such Acacias as armata, 
platyptera, and Drummondi; Coronillas, Cytisuses, a Luculia gratissima ; such 
free-flowering Fuchsias as Rose of Castille, grown as standards; Bouvardias, 
Tree Carnations, Heliotropes, Polygala Dalmaisiana, Veronica Little Gem, 
Abutilon Boule de Niege, Begonias, and such Rhododendrons as Princess Royal 
and Princess Alexandra, with Eriostemons, would be suitable for planting in 
the border and to supply flowers for cutting. The most useful Fern for cutting 
is Adiantum cuneatum, and to this you -may add the following—A. formosum, 
A. farleyense, A. serratum, A. gracillimum, A. pubescens, aud Pteris serrulata, 
but all of them must have a moist and shaded position. 
Fig Trees in Pots (H. P .).—You do not state the size of the pots, but 
being young trees from the nursery we presume they will be in 8-inch pots ; in 
which case, and being well furnished with roots, we should shift them into 
12-inch or such size as will admit of a couple of inches of soil being placed round 
the balls. The trees being turned out of the pots, remove the drainage aud 
loosen the sides of the ball with a pointed piece of wood. Drain the pots well, 
and put in sufficient turfy loam at the bottom, which should be rammed well 
down, bringing up to the height required, or so that the top of the ball will be 
about an inch below the rim of the pot. Introduce soil around the ball and 
ram as firmly as possible up to the level of the ball. The soil may consist of 
turfy loam with a tenth of old mortar rubbish, or if this cannot be had a sixth 
of road scrapings, with about a quart of half-inch bones well mixed with every 
bushel of compost. After potting give a good watering with tepid water and 
place them in the Peach house, but if there be a vinery it would be preferable. 
In any case they must have a position where they will receive plenty of light so 
as to insure stout well solidified growth, upon which the fruitfulness of Fig 
trees depends. They will need to be well supplied with water during growth, 
and to be syringed twice daily so as to keep down red spider, mulching the 
surface of the pots with rich manure, renewing the dressing as required. The 
shoots made should be stopped at the fifth or sixth joint if more than those are 
formed, but if you follow the instructions given in “ Work for the Week” you 
cannot fail to secure well-furnished trees for fruiting in pots another season. 
We should not plant the trees against the back wall of the Peach house unless 
you can restrict the roots to a border of about 2 feet 6 inches wide and deep, which 
should be well drained, putting in 9 inches of brickbats or rubble, and over this 
a layer of turves grass side downwards, then the compost, which may be similar 
to that advised for potting, ramming it down firmly. In planting disentangle 
the roots, spread them out evenly over the surface, working the soil amongst 
them, and cover about 4 inches deep, giving a good watering with tepid water, 
and mulch over the roots with short manure. The trees should be trained fan- 
fashion and kept to one stem, removing the suckers spriuging from the base as 
they appear. Planted out, the trees need not nearly so much attention as those 
in pots, and will afford satisfactory crops provided they are not grown beneath 
the shade of other trees, such as Peaches or Vines, and have not the wood too 
crowded. 
Names of Fruits. —We have many times notified that only six varieties of 
fruits can be named at once; still large packages reach us, the contents of which 
cannot be examined. Some fruits are not named because the sender’s name 
does not accompany them, and we cannot always determine to whom the re¬ 
spective parcels belong, even by the aid of letters received by post. Pears, we 
have previously intimated, ought to be ripe or approaching ripeness when sent, 
or a number of them cannot be identified. All packages must be carriage paid ; 
unpaid parcels are sent every week that are not taken in. The fee for naming 
fruit to non-subscribers is 5s. It is important that these conditions be attended 
to for preventing disappointment. (E. Leiijh ).—Court of Wick. (IF. IF. IF.).— 
2, White Calville ; 4, Mannington Pearmain ; sorry we cannot name the others. 
(0. if. A.). —1, not known, local; 2, Yellow Ingestrie ; 3, Yorkshire Greening. 
Names of Plants (S. B .).— l.Calanthe vestita luteo-oculata ; 2, apparently 
a poor example of Zygopetalum crinitum, but it was so much crushed that it 
could not be determined with certainty. ( Ebor ). —1, Sanchezia nobilis ; 2, 
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.—JANUARY 11. 
We have nothing to quote this week except that ordinary samples of Grapes, 
and heavy and best qualities maintain their value with difficulty. 
FRUIT. 
fl. 
Apples. } sieve 1 
Apricots.. doz. 0 
Cherries. lb. 0 
Chestnuts. bushel 1(1 
Currants, Black . J sieve 0 
„ Red.... I sieve 0 
Figs. dozen 0 
Filberts. ^Ib. 0 
cobs.rwotb.75 
Gooseberries .... i sieve 0 
Grapes . lb 1 
Artichokes. dozen 
Asparagus. bundle 
Beans,Kidney.... If 100 
Beet, Red. dozen 
Broccoli. bundle 
Brussels Sprouts.. J sieve 
Cabbage. dozen 
Carrots. bunch 
Capsicums. V 100 
Cauliflowers. dozen 
Celery . bundle 
Coleworts... .doz. bunches 
Cucumbers. each 
Endive. dozen 
Fennel. bunch 
Garlic . P'fb. 
Herbs. bunch 
Leeks. bunch 
8 . 
0 
1 
1 
0 
2 
0 
0 
1 
1 
1 
2 
0 
1 
0 
0 
0 
0 
d. 
9. 
d. 
S, 
d. 
<a, 
d 
0 to 3 
6 
Lemons. 
2 
«tolfi 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines.. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Oranges .... 
4 
0 
G 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches .... 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears .kitchen .. dozen 
i 
0 
1 
r> 
0 
0 
0 
dessert .... 
1 
0 
3 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples 
lb 
i 
6 
2 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries 
.... per lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Walnuts .... 
7 
0 
8 
0 
0 
4 
e 
VEGETABLES. 
d. 
s. d. 
9. 
d. 
8. 
d 
0 to 4 
0 
Mushrooms 
1 
Otol 
6 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard* Cress .. punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Onions. 
3 
6 
0 
0 
0 
2 
0 
pickling .. 
0 
0 
0 
5 
9 
1 
6 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsnips .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Potatoes .... 
2 
6 
3 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Kidney.... 
3 
0 
3 
6 
6 
2 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
0 
0 
8 
6 
Rhubarb .... 
0 
4 
0 
6 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera 
1 
6 
0 
0 
6 
0 
8 
Seakale .... 
2 
0 
2 
3 
0 
2 
0 
Shallots .... 
0 
3 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Spinach .... 
3 
0 
0 
0 
6 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. 
0 
8 
i 
0 
2 
0 
C 
Turnips. 
4 
0 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Vegetable Marrows each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
MAKING FIRST-CLASS BUTTER. 
This is a delicate art, and by some is considered difficult to 
acquire ; that, however, is not the case if care is taken to practi¬ 
cally carry out the instructions which have been given by a 
“ working dairy,” at the meeting of the Royal Agricultural So¬ 
ciety at Derby in July last, and subsequently at other exhibitions, 
by Mr. G. M. Allender, the Managing Director of the Aylesbury 
Dairy Company. We often hear that some who have been accus¬ 
tomed to butter-making consider it superfluous to attempt teach¬ 
ing it, as it can be learnt by the dairymaid in a well-conducted 
home farmers’ residence. It must, however, be admitted that a 
wider school for learning is required by the rising generation, 
and hence the necessity of an accurate, practical, and scientific 
teaching is advocated. The strongest argument to show this 
is that with our present general knowledge and practice really 
first-class butter is a rarity, and those who live in towns think it 
a scandal to English agriculture that good and wholesome home¬ 
made butter cannot be readily obtained. Even those who are 
willing to pay the highest price are unable to obtain a supply of 
this requisite of the breakfast table, especially in the winter 
months. 
Supplies of prime quality both in winter and summer are often 
sent from the home farm to the family whilst away from the 
mansion or country residence. This circumstance, however, is 
quite an exception, and does not induce the home farmer to con¬ 
sider butter-making as a commercial transaction and worth his 
while to supply butter to the trade in the provincial towns and 
country districts, it being considered more profitable and not 
requiring such nicety of management to sell the dairy produce as 
milk, or otherwise fatten calves for veal. It is, indeed, a singular 
state of things when the consumer himself at each visit to his 
grocer finds that he is almost obliged to confine his purchase to 
articles not of first-rate quality made on the continent. We 
feel sure that we are echoing the feeling of consumers in assert¬ 
ing that it almost yearly becomes a more difficult matter to 
