February 2, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 85 
2nd 
Tn 
Royal Society at 4.30 P.M. Linnean Society at 8 p.m. 
3rd 
F 
4th 
S 
6th 
Sun 
Septuagesima. 
6th 
M 
7th 
TU 
18 th 
W 
Society of Arts at 8 p.m. 
NOTES ON ROSE CULTURE. 
HERE can be no doubt that cultural details 
based on practical experience regarding the 
Rose are always acceptable to the readers of 
the Journal. The Rose commands more atten¬ 
tion than any known flower, and this is not sur¬ 
prising when we consider its beauty, its fra¬ 
grance, and the adaptability of some varieties to 
bloom at almost any season of the year by forcing 
or otherwise. The delicate, peculiar, and lovely flowers 
of orchidaceous plants are highly prized by many, but 
the Rose has a much more widely spread interest, even in 
summer, and in winter this is, if possible, increased. 
The formation of an outside rosery, as well as attention to 
the soil and situation, are doubtless very important features 
connected with the successful culture of the Rose ; but these 
may be satisfactorily provided and the cultivator then fail. 
There are localities where the Rose fails to flourish in the most 
sheltered positions, the air being laden with noxious vapours 
from adjacent chemical works. How would many of the 
varieties named in the Journal in the late elections thrive in 
such localities, and in smoky districts generally ? Many would 
not grow ; but I will in a future issue give a list of some varie¬ 
ties that succeeded fairly well in such districts, and hope others 
who are able to add to it will do so for the benelit of those who 
reside near towns. Sheltered positions are without doubt ad¬ 
vantageous to screen the plants from these vapours. The soil, 
if unsuitable, can be removed, and other more suitable supplied. 
But the cultivator cannot purify the air ; all that can be done 
is to know what varieties to select. If only a limited number, 
they should be contented with them. Cultivators are frequently 
too anxious to grow a number of varieties, but all such ideas in 
smoky districts must be abandoned. 
In forming a rosery in a suitable locality I do not consider 
a thick tall screen of trees on the northern boundary and 
another on the west are needed. The eastern and southern 
sides are also sometimes shut in by means of trees and ever¬ 
green shrubs. The long spreading and rambling roots of trees 
soon exhaust the food allotted to the Roses. In such positions 
Roses are much subject to the attacks of mildew in dry seasons 
and the ravages of green fly. If such a screen be needed, 
how do the thousands of Roses grow so well fully exposed in 
nurseries ? Yet many of the fine exhibition blooms are there 
produced that take such prominent positions at our horticul¬ 
tural shows. Roses planted on elevated positions on the sides 
of hills in the northern parts of the country might with ad¬ 
vantage have some shelter ; but it is not needed except in cold 
localities. It will be understood these remarks* do not apply 
to a rosery for the tender varieties of Teas. It matters little 
what situation is selected ; there will be found no perceptible 
difference in the growth and condition of the blooms whether 
the rosery extends north to south, or east to west, as long as 
it is not shaded by trees. 
The soil for Roses should be heavy rather than light, and 
must be well enriched with manure. If too light, clay is 
valuable to incorporate with the soil. Wood ashes in very 
strong soils produce a beneficial effect, but no better manure 
than bone dust can be used for Roses. If such were more 
generally employed the growth would be less rapid and pithy, 
and would consequently ripen better. 
The ground must be well drained, as stagnant moisture is 
detrimental to the development of first-rate blooms. The 
first preparation of the soil for the beds or borders and plant¬ 
ing the trees is not the only attention they need. They re¬ 
quire to be periodically lifted, as the soil becomes exhausted 
when they occupy the same ground for a number of years ; 
hence their lack of vigour and the necessity for lifting. 
Suckers can then be removed from the roots and a little new 
soil incorporated with the old, which will again give strength 
to the plants and assist in keeping them in a healthy condition. 
Planting is simple, yet the operation is often done in a care¬ 
less manner. The condition of the soil should be well con¬ 
sidered, and planting should not be carried out when it is in a 
wet and unsatisfactory state. Deep plantiDg, too, should be 
avoided, especially with those Roses worked on the Briar, 
as the Briar will not succeed when planted deeply. For ex¬ 
ample, we need only notice Briars growing naturally in hedge¬ 
rows with their roots close to the surface, and in many in¬ 
stances partially bare ; yet in this state they grow most lux¬ 
uriantly. Those on the Manetti are much benefited by being 
planted deepty, as the Roses can then produce roots above the 
junction of stock and bud. I prefer planting in early autumn 
before the leaves fall, as it insures the plants making a few 
fresh roots before winter and abundant blooms the following 
season ; but hundreds of Roses are successfully planted in 
February. The roots should, when near the surface, be pro¬ 
tected from frost by means of litter or a good covering of short 
manure. Liquid manure is beneficial to Roses during the 
growing season, and assists them greatly in certain stages of 
development. 
Pruning is not the least important point connected with the 
management of: Roses, yet it is one that with many is imper¬ 
fectly understood. The nature of the Rose should guide the 
operator. Some of the Tea and Noisette Roses do not require 
much pruning, yet they are not unfrequently subjected to the 
same close pruning as the Hybrid Perpetuals. Pruning the 
latter must not be done too early ; the end of March or begin¬ 
ning of April is early enough. Roses naturally start quickly 
into growth, and if pruning is done too soon the back buds 
start, thus running the risk of the young shoots being severely 
cut by late frosts. Shortening the branches to a bud should 
not be the only aim of the pruner ; but the weak growths 
must be removed, so that the whole strength of the plant will 
be concentrated into a number of strong shoots. Such varie¬ 
ties as Gloire de Dijon, Cheshunt Hybrid, Climbing Devonien- 
sis, Lamarque, Cloth of Gold, Celine Forestier, Marechal Niel, 
and others of the same habit of growth, need but little pruning 
in spring, only removing the unripe points of the shoots and 
No. 84.— y®L» IV, Thied Series. 
No. 174).— Vol. iXVII., Old Series. 
