98 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 2,isss. 
exhibited for a number of years, and was one of the best flowers 
of its day. The Carnations in one or two instances were fair 
flowers. 
Although the Carnation grows wild in England, yet the finest of 
the cultivated varieties require shelter in our uncertain climate. 
They are generally grown in pots, where they are more under the 
control of the gardener than m the open ground ; yet I have seen 
them grown in the north in the open as fine as in pots, and equally 
as fine flowers were raised when grown in this manner. I tried 
the same plan myself, acting under the advice of my friends, 
planting the Carnations out in September in raised beds ; but 
only one or two plants lived. The result of my unfortunate 
experiment prevented me trying to grow them again in the open 
air. The reason of my failure I think was caused by the sulphur 
which falls thickly on the hill where I reside, and although the 
plants may withstand it when in a growing state, yet when at rest 
in the winter months they cannot do so. 
In my early days of Carnation-growing soil was considered the 
great desideratum, and I have known it brought from good 
distances. I recollect once carrying a bag full seven miles before 
the railways were constructed. The result was that I had a sore 
back for days, which I might have avoided if I had looked round 
nearer home. At present I obtain a far better soil within half a 
mile of my residence. Any soil will suit the Carnation that will 
grow good. Wheat, giving a good proportion of straw ; in fact the 
only kind I have seen unsuitable for the purpose is light sandy 
soil, as the plants then make no increase. The light soil employed 
by the late Chas. Steward, Esq., of Bishopthorpe, York, is an 
instance. He was always able to have early blooms, frequently 
exhibiting with Mr. Charles Turner and other southern growers, 
but his stock of layers was always small. The soil I employ is 
from old pasture land which contains part fibre, but not so much 
as to make the compost light. As to the compost to be used, 
the following answers well with me—two barrowfuls of sound 
loam, one barrowful of decayed manure from an old hotbed, and 
one-third of a barrowful of burnt refuse—char I always call it ; in 
places where soil is scarce, a portion of the last year’s soil in 
which the plants have been grown may be used again. This is all 
mixed in the autumn and frequently turned during the winter 
months, covering with mats or some other protection so as to 
prevent heavy rains washing the salts out of the compost. 
Amongst old growers another thing that was considered neces¬ 
sary to secure a fine bloom was the pots, which were 12 to 
13 inches in diameter at the top and the same in depth, in which 
they would only place two layers, and sometimes only one. These 
pots were filled with compost to the top, and in dry seasons a good 
bloom might be had. Generally, however, and particularly in 
wet weather, the soil became stagnant, the white in the flowers 
being impure and the striping broken. 
The old growers were very reticent, and reluctant to give infor¬ 
mation to young hands. When I made my first essay in growing 
Carnations I paid a visit to an old veteran. I made my purchase 
of plants, some twenty to thirty pairs ; after I had paid for them 
I asked what compost I was to use, also what kind of pots, how 
many plants to place in a pot, &c. For the pots my tutor pointed 
to the large size for a pair, recommending larger if they could be 
had. For soil I was shown a heap which must have been obtained 
from some foundation in digging for a building ; this or similar 
soil I was to have and to use no manure of any kind, or the 
flowers would run. We had been removing an old fence at that 
time, and the soil there very much resembled that shown me. I 
told my teacher, and he said it was just what was needed. Briefly, 
I grew the plants in the large pots filled with the exhausted soil ; 
only two plants flowered, and one had a small shoot attached not 
sufficiently large to layer, and so I had to commence again. This 
time I found better assistance, and by that means I became a 
Carnation grower. 
The pots I recommend are from 7 to 9 inches in diameter. A 
single strong plant may be grown in the 7-inch pot, and a pair 
or three layers in 8 and 9-inch pots, according to the strength 
of the plants. Place a good layer of clean potsherds in the 
bottom of the pot, and cover thinly with fibre, leaves, or litter, 
so as to prevent the soil running into the drainage. Do not fill 
the pots, but have the surface of the soil 2 inches below the rim, 
so that a top-dressing may be given about the end of June. This 
compost should be moderately rich, consisting of good rich de¬ 
cayed manure, with a small proportion of soil, or sheep’s dung, 
which is better, may be employed. After this the plants will only 
need supplying with water and keeping free from green fly or 
dust, stirring the top of the soil in the pots occasionally to prevent 
the growth of moss. 
When the plants commence showing their flower buds weak 
liquid manure should be given in small supplies. The best manure 
for preparing liquid I have used is guano, but others are nearly as 
good. Horse droppings, sheep dung, nitrate of soda, pigeon dung, 
&c., I have found all good. 
If large flowers are desired disbudding cannot be commenced 
too early, reducing the buds to one or two on weak-growing 
varieties, whilst stronger sorts may have three and sometimes four 
flower buds. In order that the flowers may develope their petals 
evenly it is good practice to tie the pods with bastor strong cotton 
rubbed with beeswax, which I prefer doing before the point of the 
pod opens; by this means split pods may be generally avoided. 
If the flowers are intended for exhibition the exhibitor will 
find a stand of blooms show to much more advantage by placing the 
best flowers at the four corners of the stand, and if possible to be 
heavy edges in Picotees. This was the advice a famous grower 
once gave me, for he said that the corner blooms being so good 
displayed the other flowers to more advantage—in fact, as he said, 
“ propped up the whole stand.” In all cases let there be a good 
blending of the flowers in Carnations, employing the scarlet 
bizarres, crimson bizarres, and scarlet flakes for the deep-coloured 
flowers ; whilst the pink and purple bizarres, purple flakes, and 
rose flakes answer for the pale varieties. The same plan must he 
adopted in the Picotees, mixing the flowers thoroughly, as the 
more diversity they show the better they appear. 
I see that the question of dressing or not dressing the Carnation 
has been raised again, and the advocates of the latter I find are in 
a similar position to politicians who belong to the minority in the 
country, and assert that the majority is of their way of thinking. 
To these I can only say, Become florists, and if you do not dress 
the flowers I shall be greatly surprised. No doubt all florists 
would oppose the non-dressing of flowers or discarding the 
beautiful double flowers we now possess, and returning to the five- 
petalled varieties called singles. I think if the non-dresser could 
see how much some flowers are improved by passing through the 
hands of an artistic dresser he would become a convert. Again, 
to dispense with dressing generally is impossible, for in windy 
situations like mine it would be impossible to exhibit without so 
treating the flowers. I have had numbers of flowers where the 
petals, through the effect of the strong winds, were all blown to 
one side. Of course there are flowers which cannot be improved 
by the dresser’s art; these when once seen should be remembered. 
Dressing has always been done, and will be continued in spite of 
all that can be said to the contrary. 
ERANTIJEMUM PULCHELLUM. 
Plants which produce blue flowers freely in our conservatories 
during December, January, and other winter months are by no 
means common—indeed, they are so scarce that I do not know 
one worth naming excepting the above ; but it is a host in 
itself, and I shall always grow it in quantity. It is easy of culture, 
free in flowering, and the blooms are pretty in arrangement, 
form, and colour. Plants in 6-inch pots have six and eight shoots 
from 2 feet to 3 feet high ; these again are clothed closely with side 
growths 2 or 3 inches long, and it is these which terminate in a 
cluster of bright blue flowers. For cutting these shoots are of great 
use. Hard cutting does not injure the plants. The main shoots, 
unless fully out, may be cut away altogether and fresh growths 
will spring from the bottom, the tops of which may be taken as 
cuttings in February or March, and the side shoots may also be 
employed for this purpose. As soon as they have ceased flowering 
they begin producing fresh leaves, and it is then the cuttings may 
be taken. These root freely inserted in any ordinary light com¬ 
post, with the help of a little bottom heat. After rooting they 
must be transferred into small pots and kept in a warm house or 
pit for a time ; but throughout the summer they may be kept with 
other winter-flowering plants, such as Bouvardias. In the autumn 
they should be well exposed to the sun, as on this depends their 
being easily brought into flower. By repeated stopping very 
dwarf bushy plants may be had, and these are most useful for 
decorative purposes.— J. Muir. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Peas sown in November and December are making considerable 
progress, and will need protection from birds, especially sparrows. A 
few lines of fine rough twine placed over the rows and a few inches 
