JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
110 
and, like the bulbs, is cheap enough to be used freely where it is 
needed. 
Lilium aura turn established in large masses produces a gorgeous 
effect in gardens, and fills them with perfume. The plants are 
equally valuable for conservatory decoration, and especially if 
they can be induced to flower in the winter, as it appears they 
may be, judging by some plants grown by Mr. Record, gardener 
to C. A. Hanbury, Esq., Belmont, some of which were as fine in 
January, with others following, as they are often seen in August. 
The following is the history of these plants as communicated to 
me by Mr. Record :— 
“ The bulbs were bought in April, and a few medium-sized bulbs« 
but plump and weighty for their size and season, were selected with 
the object of endeavouring to have Lilium flowers in winter. I laid 
the bulbs on a damp brick floor, and covered them with fine sandy 
soil till the second week in July. This kept them from shrivelling. 
They were then potted singly in 4-inch pots, in a mixture of very 
sandy peaty soil ; but first of all each bulb was wrapped in sand 
and chopped moss, they were afterwards plunged in cocoa-nut fibre 
until they had rooted and the crowns started. They were then placed 
on the floor of a cool greenhouse, the crowns being covered for a 
time. When far enough advanced they were placed on the stage of 
the same house until the stems were a foot in height. During this 
time the bulbs made scarcely any root, but began to emit roots from 
the stem (of course, I know that would be the case with bulbs 
growing quite out of their natural season). I therefore saw that to 
sustain them the stem roots must be my means of culture for success. 
I therefore did not repot them, but placed them in 24’s on good 
drainage, with the space between the two pots filled up with moss. 
A little soil was added at intervals for the purpose of supporting 
the surface roots, the consequence was that the plants grew freely 
and set their buds. Just before that occurred they were all transferred 
to a warm greenhouse, when instead, as one would have supposed 
they would grow still higher, the buds swelled off well, and those 
that have flowered have been large, well shaped, and good in colour, 
having a pleasant perfume, not nearly so strong as if they had 
flowered in the summer, and therefore more agreeable. Water has 
been applied very carefully and not much given at a time. They are 
now having liquid manure twice a week, and are growing in a warm 
greenhouse. If I had grown them in a higher temperature no doubt 
the buds would have turned yellow. They just want a growing tem¬ 
perature where they can be kept syringed and clean.” 
The Belmont plants were from 2 to 3 feet high, each stem pro¬ 
ducing six to seven large flowers. There is thus a great difference 
as regards Lilium auratum in 1862 and 1882 ; and every step in 
advance—better bulbs, lower prices, and the amenability of the 
plants to be induced to flower in winter as well as in summer—is 
in favour of cultivators.—J. W. 
A FEW DIFFICULTIES. 
Boeder Auriculas. —When is the best time to divide and 
replant Auriculas which have been four or five years unmoved in 
an open border ? Some six or seven years ago I was induced by 
some gardening authority to remove my plants, for the summer 
months, from the south border and to place them in a northern 
aspect shaded by a wall from the south ; the consequence was 
that I lost above half of my plants. Since then I have left them 
undisturbed in a border at the top of a bank facing south, merely 
earthing-up the crowns once or twice a year when needed. But 
now the plants have grown so large, and the crowns on such 
long stems, that the mounds around them have become unsightly. 
Under these circumstances what is best to be done, and when to 
do it ?—G. 0. S. 
Mushrooms Decaying. —I think no crop causes me more 
anxiety than Mushrooms. Vegetables of all kinds in the open 
garden I can generally rely on yielding produce at a given time, 
and with flowers as a rule I have no difficulty ; but Mushrooms 
trouble me and puzzle me. Sometimes the beds are good, but 
now and then a failure occurs that I cannot account for. One 
bed has produced thousands of Mushrooms about the size of peas, 
which turned brown and shrivelled, and few good examples have 
followed. On another bed the Mushrooms grow about as large 
as walnuts and never open nor increase in size. If we cut them 
they are hard, if we leave them they decay. The beds are made 
of droppings well sweetened, with a slight sprinkling of soil 
added. The spawn is inserted about the size of walnuts, and 
some is broken small and spread on the surface. The tempera¬ 
ture of the beds were about 80° when spawned, and the house 
kept at from 60° to 65°. When I have a good bed it seldom lasts 
long. Will some of your practical readers kindly tell me where 
they think I am wrong ?—J. Welsford. 
Carnations Decaying.—I have a good collection of Cau 
[ February 9, 1882. 
nations which I raised from seed received from Messrs. Vilmorin 
of Paris. They were strong plants and bloomed well. They 
were taken up, potted, and wintered in a frame, but lately they 
have been attacked by what appears to me to be a fungoid 
affection. The leaves are spotted with dull greyish spots, and 
this to such an extent as in some cases to ultimately destroy the 
plant. I have some that are now quite dead. Can any of your 
correspondents tell me the cause of this and the remedy ? I have 
a suspicion that it is caused by allowing drops of moisture to 
form on the leaves, for the discoloured spots are just the size of 
drops of water. These appear to destroy the tissue, and then the 
parts are attacked by the fungus. In addition to keeping the 
foliage dry, I have dusted the plants with flowers of sulphur in 
hope that this may prove effectual; but I should like if some of 
your experienced Carnation growers would give us their views on 
the subject. Some young plants raised from layers in the summer 
are similarly affected.— An Amateur. 
PRUNUS SINENSIS FLORE-PLENO. 
Few plants with which I am acquainted are more attractive 
during the winter and spring months than the above. Creditable 
plants are difficult to obtain unless they are grafted or budded, 
and these only succeed satisfactorily for a short time. When 
grafted their slender shoots appear to be dwarfed, and this 
deprives the plant of much beauty. I cannot understand why 
this Prunus is grafted when they can be raised so quickly by 
cuttings, which afterwards thrive far better. In two years plants 
can be produced with from six to eight shoots or more in 6-inch 
pots. Neat little specimens can be grown and bloomed the first 
season ; but it is advisable to grow three or four together in the 
same pot. Large plants can be obtained in pots, but I consider 
small plants more useful ; however, when the former are grown 
care should be taken that the base does not become bare. The 
temperature and treatment accorded Peaches suit this Prunus 
exactly. 
With the flowers side shoots are produced, and these root readily 
when they have attained about 4 inches in length, and should be 
removed with a very small portion of the old wood. Six-inch 
pots should be filled with sandy soil, placing a layer of sand on 
the surface, and insert the cuttings without removing any leaves. 
When well watered they must be placed in the propagating frame 
or under a bellglass, and if kept close and well shaded when 
necessary nine out of ten will root. They should be trans¬ 
ferred singly into 3-inch pots as soon as they have formed roots, 
for if left until they become matted together they are often 
checked, and will not start again during the season. If potted at 
once and placed in a Cucumber or Melon house they will produce 
shoots fully 2 feet long. Two or three can be placed together if 
deemed advisable, or the one shoot can be ripened and flowered, 
and are useful for associating with other plants. 
After flowering they must be cut down within 6 inches of the 
pot, and when growths 4 inches long have been made the roots 
will be active, and the plants may be potted in 6-inch pots. A 
number of shoots will start from the small stem left, probably a 
dozen, which can be left if the cultivator wishes ; but they seldom 
attain the length and strength that half the number would do. I 
disbud them as soon as they break into growth, the same as I 
treat our Peaches, and prefer a number of strong well-ripened 
shoots to a greater number of puny growths. After growth is com¬ 
pleted and the wood fairly ripe they are placed outside in a sunny 
position to further harden and ripen them. When the plants 
become too large they can be thrown out, younger plants being 
employed, or after flowering reduce the roots and place them in 
smaller pots. I have chopped good-sized plants round with a 
spade, and they have succeeded afterwards, but it must not be 
done until they are growing. For a time they must be very 
carefully watered. In all stages of growth liberal applications of 
water should be given, and liquid manure when the pots are full 
of roots. After potting they should be carefully watered for a 
time until the roots are active, but in no stage should they become 
dust-dry.— -Countryman. 
Mistletoe Propagation. —I was recently shown near this town 
many fine specimens of Mistletoe grafted on the common Apple. 
One small bush, notwithstanding the probable removal of many 
berries by birds, must have had a thousand still. It was not 2 feet in 
diameter. As many would like to possess such a novelty I may note 
that from this time forward i3 the best time for propagation, the seed 
being nearly ripe, and this is the simplest method. As the Mistletoe 
is a parasite the glutinous sticky berries must be attached to the 
bark of an Apple tree, or, if that is not convenient, the Thorn or Pear 
might be tried. They will stick with the pressure of the finger to 
