144 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February ig, wsa. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
d. 
8. 
d 
Apples. 
. J sieve 
2 
0 to 6 
0 
Lemons. 
etoi« 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cherries. 
V lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarines.. .. 
0 
0 
0 
« 
16 
0 
0 
0 
¥ 100 
4 
0 
6 
ft 
Currants, Black 
4 sieve 
U 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
. dozen 
9 
0 
0 
0 
„ Red... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears, kitchen 
. dozen 
i 
0 
1 
« 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dessert. 
. dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Filberts. 
Vft>. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples .. 
4P ft 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Cobs. 
loo ft. 
60 
0 
15 
0 
Strawberries .. 
.. per ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries ... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Walnuts . 
i 
0 
8 
0 
Grapes . 
*>■ it 
3 
Q 
8 
« 
rods from tliis, removing’ the others, and so let one or two Vines eventually fill 
the entire house. You would in all probability derive more satisfactory results 
from this extension system than by resorting to the extreme restriction of four 
or five Vines that such a short roof would necessitate. In forming the flue pro¬ 
vision must be made for cleaning out the soot occasionally. 
Forming a New Kitchen Garden (San Juan). —Probably the old pasture 
intended to be broken up is sufficiently drained, otherwise this ought not to be 
neglected, in fact should be first commenced. A difficulty in your case may 
be experienced in securing an outlet for the main drain. Where this main 
drain shall be cut must depend upon circumstances. If the intended garden is 
nearly level it may traverse the centre, the smaller drains running into it from 
both sides; or if the garden is on a declivity the main drain formed in each 
case with, say, 5-inch pipe tiles, at the least 3 feet in depth, may be disposed along 
the lower side. The smaller drains may be formed with 2 or 3-inch pipe tiles, 
be disposed about 8 yards apart, and at the farthest point from the main drain 
not less than 2 feet in depth. At this depth, however, they are liable to be dis¬ 
turbed when the ground is trenched, consequently if the main drain can have a 
lower outlet all the lesser drains should be put in deeper. The next operation 
will be to line out but not necessarily complete the walks. Save the turf from 
these for the fruit trees, at all events near where these are to be planted, and for 
digging in, about G inches of the top soil should be thrown out for a similar 
purpose. Make the bottom of the walks firm and slightly convex in form ; cover 
with about 6 inches of brick ends or other coarse material, on this place about 
2 inches of coarse gravel, and finish off with an inch of binding gravel. Broken 
clinkers and ashes from stokeholes may with advantage be substituted for the 
coarse and binding gravel, and if watered through a rose pot and well rolled 
will bind quickly. If either box or tiles are employed for edging—giving the 
preference to the latter—they should be laid prior to the gravel being wheeled 
on. By all means double-dig the whole of the ground for vegetables and fruit 
trees, but do not bring the subsoil to the surface, as by so doing you unduly 
bury the fertile workable soil, in exchange for that which is sterile and unman¬ 
ageable. What is known as bastard trenching should be resorted to, which may 
be carried out in your case as follows—The top spit of a trench 3 feet wide 
should be taken out from either the east or west end, whichever happens to bo 
highest, and wheeled to the other end. Then break up the subsoil with forks ; 
next measure out another 3-feet width, take off the turf, roughly chop it up, 
dispose it over the subsoil of the fir>t trench, and on this turn the top spit of the 
second trench. Break up the subsoil of this trench, cover with the turf and top 
spit of the third trench, and so proceed, that soil wheeled back being used to cover 
the subsoil of the last-formed trench. The depth of the top spit should depend 
upon the nature of the soil; probably after the turf is pared off 9 inches of good 
soil only will be fit to bring to tiie surface. W'e should prefer the borders for 
the fruit trees to be 4 or 5 feet wide, and should prepare them exactly as recom¬ 
mended for the vegetable quarters. Turf will not cause the trees to “make too 
much wood,” but is the best of material for a fruit border. Not only would we 
dispose some between the spits but should also stack a quantity of that taken 
off the intended walks, and at planting time next season should chop this up 
roughly and fork it into the snrface prior to planting. Deeply buried manure 
or turf induces deep rooting, whereas if the roots are encouraged to remain near 
the surface much fibre is formed, and this is most conducive to fruitfulness as 
well as longevity. When the young trees are received cut off any coarse roots 
with a downward tendency, and any roots badly bruised, aud also cut off the 
broken ends to facilitate healing. See that the holes for them are sufficiently 
large and made firm at the bottom, dispose the roots evenly and nearly flat, 
covering with comparatively fine soil. When finished off the collars ought to 
be only slightly below the surface. If planted in the autumn mulch the border 
near the trees with rough manure by way of protection from frost, but the 
aspect being north the mulching will be unnecessary later on. The newly 
broken up pasture, land ought to produce Potatoes of the very best quality for 
the table. Veitch’s Improved, Mona’s Pride, and Early Hammersmith are good 
varieties of the Ash leaf type, and one of these should be extensively grown for 
early supply. To succeed these you would find Triumph, a red round American 
variety, and the old Lapstone Kidney, suitable ; Schoolmaster is excellent for 
main crop, and Magnum Bonum is much liked for the latest supply. Paterson’s 
Victoria is remarkably good as regards quality, none being superior at this date, 
but it is more liable to disease than the two last mentioned. The Ashleafs may 
be planted in rows 2 feet apart, and the sets 9 inches asunder ; the second 
earlies 30 inches apart and 10 inches asunder ; Schoolmaster 3 feet apart aud 
12 inches asunder ; while the rows of Magnum Bonum may with advantage, bo 
42 inches apart, and the sets in the rows 12 inches asunder. The number of 
the Journal containing imformation on building has been sent to you. It is 
No. 355, not 365 as was misprinted last week. 
Names of Fruits (S. T.). —1, Golden Nonpareil; 2, Bedfordshire Found¬ 
ling ; 3, Beachamwell; 4 and 5, Not known ; 6, White Nonpareil. 
Names of Plants (T. F.). —1, Adiantum viviparum ; 2, Didymochlsena 
lunulata. (A. D .).—A few leaves with no indication as to the habit of the plant 
are insufficient to enable us to identify it with certainty, but it resembles Dra- 
ctena congesta. 
Notes on Bee Hives (Inquirer ).—We have an excellent article on this 
subject from Mr. Cheshire, which will probably be published next week. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— February 15. 
Improvement in business well maintained, all the better class of goods 
advancing in value. Kent 
Cobs 
s. d. 
selling more freely at lower rates. 
VEGETABLES. 
s. d. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d 
Artichokes. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Mushrooms 
A 
0 to 1 
6 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
9 
0 
10 
0 
Mustard & Cress .. punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
Beans,Kidney... 
4P- 100 
2 
0 
2 
6 
Onions. 
8 
6 
0 
0 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
pickling .. 
0 
0 
0 
5 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
i 
6 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts. 
£ sieve 
1 
3 
i 
6 
Parsnips .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
2 
6 
3 
6 
CarroLs. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
K iduey.... 
3 
u 
3 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Cauliflowers. 
dozen 
1 
0 
3 
6 
Rhubarb .... 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzo’nera 
1 
e 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
each 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Seakale .... 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Shallots .... 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Spinach .... 
3 
0 
0 
0 
G rlic . 
¥>• ft. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. 
1 
0 
9 
0 
Herbs. 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
c 
Turnips .... 
4 
u 
0 
Leeks. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Vegetable Marrows each 
0 
0 
0 
0 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
CULTIVATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOPS. 
( Continued from (page 122.') 
At the time of planting, and where the variety is true, care 
should be taken that the cuttings from the male plant are kept 
distinct from the others, or they are likely to be distributed irre¬ 
gularly over the ground, instead of having them, as they should 
be, at distances of ten or twelve hills from each other, so as to have 
one male-planted hill to 100 or at most 150 Hop-growing hills. 
Some plauters are still of opinion that male plants are entirely 
useless. Mr. Rutlev, in his excellent prize essay on Hop cultiva¬ 
tion, and published in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural 
Society in the year 1818, alludes to this matter, and says, “ Nearly 
forty years since I took a farm on which there was only one Hop 
ground of about ten acres, in which there was not a single male 
plant; they were Canterbury Hops, produced a great quantity 
of bine and a fair quantity of burr. The Hops, however, were 
generally small, loose, and hover. Being at that time satisfied 
that the male plant would improve them, I planted one hill in 
every 114 with them. In the second year after setting they pro¬ 
duced a considerable quantity of farina, and when the burr came 
into hop it had the effect upon those plants which were near, so 
that the Hops were larger and more firm, closing at the tip, whilst 
those at a distance were as loose and hover as in previous years. 
In the next year, where the male plants had attained their ma¬ 
turity, all the Hops grown were larger and firmer, and this 
continued during the ten years whilst I held the farm, and I saw 
every year the same advantage by continuing the male plant.” 
Mr. Lance, in his “ Hop Farmer,” writes most decidedly in favour 
of cultivating the male plant, and gives a scientific description 
of the fertilisation which occurs in their growth. 
The month of March is the best period for planting, because in 
case dry weather sets in at a later time the sets are likely to die 
for lack of moisture. When cut sets are planted, and the land 
has been well tilled and abundantly manured and forked in, 
the ground may be cropped between the hills with Potatoes or 
Carrots. Some grow Mangolds or Turnips, but the latter favour 
attacks of fly, which in certain seasons will also seriously injure 
the youDg shoots of the Hop bine. The cultivation, however, of 
one or two lines of the former between the hills is beneficial, 
because their cultivation, hoeing, &c., keeps the land clean and 
pulverised, assisting the roots of the Hops, and the value of the 
intercrops pay some of the expenses of the culture, especially in 
the first and second years after planting. 
We object to ploughing the Hop land, as the tread of the horses 
in the best strong loamy soils impedes the progress of the rootlets 
of the Hop plant; the digging should, however, be done with a 
strong three-grained fork with what we call spud points (this is 
a hint to gardeners), being preferable to the work usually done 
