152 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 23, 1882. 
effected by means of cuttings, which is both a quicker and readier 
system, and the plants much sooner become neat little bushes. 
The cuttings can be taken any time between October and March, 
the earlier the better, and the greatest success may be anticipated, 
as Dearly every cutting may be relied upon to root, provided the 
treatment after insertion is judicious. The wood selected for the 
cuttings should be from the end of the shoots, and about 3 inches 
in length, strong sappy growths being avoided. In preparing 
them cut through the stem with a sharp knife below a joint, and 
remove the lower leaves. I do not know that any advantage is 
gained by removing and shortening the foliage, further than it 
allows them to be inserted more closely together than would be 
the case if the foliage was retained. Glazed boxes must be in 
readiness to receive the cuttings after these have been inserted in 
8-inch pots, well drained and filled with sandy loam, and a layer 
of river sand on the surface. The cuttings can be placed thickly 
together in the pots and be well watered after insertion, and 
the frames afterwards kept close, affording shade when needed. 
Growth commences as the roots form, and after they reach this 
stage the lights may be removed during gentle rains. As the 
season advances the frames can be dispensed with entirely, and 
the young plants placed out where they can remain at least 
two years. Planting out is best done before the roots become 
matted in the pots. A good soaking of water should be given 
when planting out in dry weather, and after this, as a rule, the 
young plants need no further care in that respect.—W. B. 
NOTES ON MUSHROOMS. 
In reply to Mr. Welsford, page 110, in reference to Mushrooms 
dying, I should say I consider in the first place his house is kept 
far too hot. His manner of spawning the beds differs from my 
own, and I believe many others—viz., in beating it up so small, 
but as the spawn ran and produced Mushrooms that could not 
cause the failure. We have been very fortunate with Mushrooms 
here this winter. The beds are composed of the same material 
named by your correspondent, but are generally spawned a few 
degrees lower than the temperature given by him (80°), although 
I have known the temperature to rise to 100° without injury, but 
then the beds have not been covered with soil. The spawn bricks 
are broken into not more than six pieces, and placed about an 
inch under the dung of the bed and made very firm around them. 
When it is thought that the temperature of the bed will not rise 
it is earthed over with about 2 inches of common garden soil, of a 
suitable texture to admit of its being made firm without being 
too tenacious. 
All that is necessary afterwards is to keep the house cool and 
moist, but must not be brought about by deluges of water, but 
keep what moisture there is in from escaping by rendering the 
house almost airtight. As a proof that it is not necessary to have 
a high temperature the fact may be mentioned that I have had 
Seakale, Rhubarb, and Chicory in the house for weeks to grow, 
but it has made no progress, and I have been compelled to place 
it in other quarters, and in this house we have gathered on an 
average 6 lbs. of Mushrooms per week from one bed since the first 
week in November, and it is now white with them. They are 
large and solid, very different from some I have seen grown in 
heat, which are light, and seem to hang by little threads. I have 
not seen the temperature of my Mushroom house above 55° the 
whole of this mild winter.— C. W. 
NOTES ON PRIMULAS—CULTURE. 
I ENCLOSE you two photographs of Primulas. You may form 
some idea of the size and beauty of these plants from the fact 
that most of the flowers of the plant numbered 1 measured over 
2 inches in diameter. This strain of white Primula 1 have had 
now for several years came originally from Messrs. J. Carter and 
Co. The flowers are pure white, and the variety is peculiar in 
having dark stems and leaves. I have had plants in small 32-pots 
measuring 2 feet in diameter, and trusses of flowers 18 inches in 
diameter. No. 2 photograph shows specimens of Williams’ mag- 
nifica. I cannot speak too highly of this variety both as regards 
distinctness of flowers and beauty of foliage. 1 also send a flower 
of Bull’s strain, a beautiful colour, and of good size and robust 
habit. The next I call my Polyanthus Primula. I have grown 
it now three years, and as the flowers increased in size yearly I 
hope to have it good next year. This plant is generally admired. 
Cannell’s Crimson deserves special notice, though I fail to 
obtain the flowers large, even when the plants receive the same 
treatment as the others. Cannell’s Pink is also quite a gem in its 
way. I like it, though it needs a light position, or the colour will 
be very pale. 
Perhaps a few remarks on my method of culture will not be 
unacceptable, as the season for sowing is approaching. My first 
sowing is made the third week in March in light sandy soil in a 
Cucumber frame, covering the seeds with moss or paper when I 
have watered the seed, as by thus doing very little water is 
required until the seed germinates. As soon as the seedlings 
appear gradually remove the covering. I do not keep them in 
strong heat long, but accustom them to a lower temperature until 
they are placed in a cool vinery. As soon as they can be handled 
either prick them out into pans or pot them singly. 
Though the Primula likes plenty of light, the direct rays of the 
sun injure it so much that if grown in a frame I advise judicious 
shading. Here I have them in large vineries. Much has been 
written in reference to using vineries as plant houses, but I con¬ 
sider, as I always did, that plants can be grown in a large vinery 
without prejudice to the Vines, but in a small house the result i3 
very unsatisfactory. The best of my Primulas are now 7 , and have 
been for some two months past, blooming in a span house 50 feet 
long by 20 wide, where the Grapes were cleared out the last day 
of January. To manage this, however, especial care is always 
taken in keeping the house clean, no w r ater beiDg carelessly 
thrown about. It is impossible to keep or grow Grapes after the 
colouring time with crowded bedding plants w 7 hich are watered 
indiscriminately. With regard to the temperature required by 
Vines and Primulas I can only say, Keep the frost out of house 
and both will be right. 
The Primula I consider the most useful plant for windows. In 
my own parlour, where there is a fire three times a week, w 7 e have 
had two plants at least two months, and they are still good. 
I prefer a light sandy compost with peat or leaf soil, and employ 
small pots. I had in the autumn some good plants in large 60’s, 
and they bloomed well. Several were transferred to 48’s, and in 
November I selected a few of the finest coming into flower and 
shifted them into larger pots. The result was disappointing, as 
the blooms became small. I then decided to remove the trusses 
and let them start again, and this proved successful. The photo¬ 
graphs show two of these plants. 
In supplying water care should be taken that the soil is well 
soaked at least weekly, as nothing injures them more than surface 
watering, especially when the pots are full of roots. A stiffer 
soil containing more loam was employed for the best plants : but 
even though you give them efficient drainage and a fairly good 
soil, much depends on the attention given to them when growing. 
As soon as the plants are thoroughly established and they com¬ 
mence blooming a weekly supply of weak liquid manure will 
prove beneficial provided the soil be not dry at the time of the 
application. 
Primulas should not be crowded, and yet it is not necessary to 
have them upon a shelf to be excessively dried. My plants stand 
on the Vine border 8 or 9 feet from glass, yet they are quite 
satisfactory. A good plan to insure a succession of blooming 
plants is to sow seeds twice or three times, the last sowing being 
made in May. Should strong plants be wanted remove the first 
flowers. I do not know if there is anything new in these remarks, 
but having seen Primulas exhibited in London I particularly noted 
the size of pots, plants, and blooms, and when comparing these 
with my own plants I was very well pleased with the result.— 
Stephen Castle, The Vineyard , West Lynn. 
[All the flowers sent are very fine, and your descriptions of 
them are accurate. The white flower No. 1 is singularly fine. 
The leaf and flowers of what you describe as Bull’s strain are 
remarkable for size and substance, the former being 6 inches in 
diameter, and the latter stout and rich. Cannell’s Crimson is 
extremely bright, and Cannell’s Pink (an improved form of lila- 
cina) is distinct and pleasiDg. Your Polyanthus variety is striking 
alike by its velvety maroon much-crimped petals and much- 
inflated calyx, the latter beiDg more curious than beautiful. The 
photographs show satisfactorily that the plants have been admir¬ 
ably cultivated.—E d.] 
CABBAGES CLUBBING. 
Seeing so many inquiries from correspondents in the Journal 
of Horticulture for a remedy for this pest, I am induced to send 
you my experience. Ten or twelve years ago I bought an allot¬ 
ment garden, which, judging by the luxuriant growth of the weeds, 
I thought would suit vegetables well. I set a man to clean it, 
had all the weeds burnt, and as there was plenty of manure in the 
ground it did not need more. I had some Cabbages, Cauliflower, 
and Brussels Sprouts planted in July. They grew very slowly, 
and after a short time the leaves became flabby and drooped. I 
soon ascertained they were badly clubbed, As a remedy some 
advised lime, others gas lime. I tried both, but with no effect. 
