162 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 23, 1882. 
views of the size and form of frame most desirable, but this, I think, 
is a matter that may be well left to a committee to deal with. I may, 
however, say that the general view appears to be that a shallow 
rather than a deep frame should be adopted, providing the depth be 
not less than 8J inches, nor the length than 12f, in order that the 
frame may receive six 1 tb. sections. The shape I think of less 
importance, although as giving a decided preference to a tapered 
frame I should advocate a ‘ double standard,’ in other words a 
rectangular and a tapered frame of the same superficial contents, 
and, from what I have stated above, the size would most nearly 
approach the Woodbury frame. Shallowed frames are most easy of 
manipulation, better for extracting, are more easily suspended m a 
vertical position in the hive, and there is no necessity for those 
abominations or queen-destroyers, called racks, to keep them in their 
places. It is said that bees winter better in deep frames, but with 
our modern appliances for winter and the contraction of the hive 
this objection has no force. Heat ascends, therefore will a deep 
frame, when the bees cluster at the top of the frames, the space 
below will be filled with cold air.” 
The motion was seconded by Mr. T. W. Cowan, and after some 
discussion was adopted unanimously. The following gentlemen 
were nominated as the Committee to carry out the resolution : 
Mr. C. N. Abbott, Mr. T. W. Cowan, Mr. F. Cheshire, Mr. J. G. 
Desborough, Mr. J. M. Hooker, Mr. A. Neighbour, Rev. G. Raynor, 
Rev. F. T. Scott. The Honorary Secretary will be glad to receive 
communications from bee-keepers generally. Every information 
upon this important question will be gladly received and duly 
considered by the Committee. 
The Committee of the Association also met for general business. 
There were present Mr. T. W. Cowan (in the chair). Hon. and Rev. H. 
Bligh, Rev. G. Raynor, Rev. F. T. Scott, Mr. J. M. Hooker, and 
Mr. D. Stewart. The minutes of the last meeting were read, con¬ 
firmed, and signed. The balance sheet for the month ending 
January 31st was also read, showing a balance in hand of £66 Is. 
The Hon. and Rev. H. Bligh submitted the amended scheme for the 
management of the proposed “Economic Apiaries Competition.” 
After some discussion, and verbal amendments having been made to 
a few of the rules, it was resolved that a series of regulations shoirld 
be adopted. These regulations we shall publish next week. 
FUMIGATING BEES. 
In the article entitled “Bee-keeping for Beginners.—No. 1,” 
published in your last issue, Mr. Pettigrew makes the following 
extraordinary statement—“ The secret of the use of smoke in 
handling hives and bees is a very valuable one, and it was bought 
of an irishman in Edinburgh for a gill of whisky many years 
ago.” Will Mr. Pettigrew explain to your readers the following 
passages from Virgil and Varro ? The fact is that almost all 
writers on bee culture for the last tw r o thousand years have recom¬ 
mended smoke for subduing bees. 
“ Fumosque mann prastende sequaces.”—( Virg. Georg., iv., 230.) 
(Drive in with your hand the penetrating smoke.) 
And again we have— 
“ At suffise Thymo . . . quis dubitet ?”— (Virg. Georg., iv., 241.) 
(Who would hesitate to fumigate them with Thyme ?) 
And again—“ Verno tempore sestivo, fere ter in mense, mellarius 
inspicenj debet, fumigans leviter eas, et a spurcitiis purgare alvum, 
et vermiculos ejiccre.”—( Varro, lib. iii., cap. 16.) “ In the spring 
and summer season, generally thrice in the month, the bee-keeper 
ought to inspect [the bees], fumigating them moderately, and 
cleansing the hive from filthiness, and casting out the little grubs 
[of the moth].” Columella also writes extensively on the same 
subject.— George Raynor, Hazeleigli Rectory, Maldon. 
[In Martyn’s edition of the Georgies, published in 1746, he has 
a note to the effect that “ it is a custom to drive bees with 
smoak”] 
Bees and Fruit. —We often see paragraphs relative to bees and 
flowers, but do we sufficiently appreciate the value of bees in con¬ 
tributing to the fruit crop ? I have been informed that a fruit¬ 
grower has found them of great advantage in an orchard. He says 
all orchardists should keep bees, and they will gain a double return 
from them—honey in the hives, and fruit upon the trees. Is this 
anything more than a “ flight of fancy ? ”— Suburbanist. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Samuel Shepperson, Prospect House, Belper.— Catalogue of Florists’ 
Flowers. 
A. H. Curtiss, Jacksonville, Florida, United States. — List of 
American Shrubs and Hardy Plants. 
E. Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge.— Catalogue of Farm Seeds 
(Illustrated). 
J. Carter A Co., High Holborn, London.— Catalogue of Farm Seeds 
( Illustrated ). 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
yuOllM/f ~ \aVM\SwlP a 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Primula Blooms (F. G.). —They bear some rescmblence to Mr. Gilbert's 
varieties, but are not quite so full. One is very neat, and both are well worth 
preserving. 
Flowers from Cannes ( T. B. /?.).—The flowers you have sent are of the 
Paper White Narcissus, bulbs of which are sold in the autumn by all nursery¬ 
men and seed merchants. They require the same treatment as Hyacinths, 
whether grown in pots or planted out. They are quite hardy, but are grown 
largely in pots for early forcing. 
Mushroom Bed (James). —The material to which you refer, if turned occa¬ 
sionally so that it is perfectly sweet, might if spawned produce Mushrooms, but 
we should not expect ihem to be very fine. In its present condition the heap is 
not suitable. Turn it over on alternate days for a week and it will be in much 
better condition. It must not be offensive when used. Press it very firmly to¬ 
gether, insert spawn when the temperature of the bed is about 80 c and declining, 
and a few days afterwards cover the surface with good soil, made very firm, and 
an inch deep. 
Fertilisers for a Garden ( F. J.).— Guano of guaranteed quality mixed 
with one-third of salt and applied among the crops at the rate of about 2 ozs. 
per square yard will answer your purpose. Superphosphate of lime with a 
third of nitrate of soda applied at the rate of 3 ozs. per square yard will answer 
equally well, or both mixtures may be used alternately with advantage. Such 
manures as Clay’s fertiliser and others that are advertised are good for all 
growing crops. 
Superphosphate of Lime (A Novice). —Although good liquid manure 
may be made with this fertiliser, still the whole of it is not soluble, and it is 
better to apply it as a surface dressing both to plants in pots and to Vine and 
Peach borders. It is a safe and excellent manure, and, not being so strong as 
guano, may be used in larger quantities than that manure. For plants in pots 
a small teaspoonful of the superphosphate may be sprinkled on the soil of a 6-inch 
pot when the plant needs more support than the soil affords. When Vines and 
Peach trees require manurial assistance, from 3 to 4 ozs. may be sprinkled on 
each square yard of the borders and lightly pointed in the soil. 
Musa Cavendishii (Idem). —Rough turfy loam with a third of decayed 
manure added and a fifteenth part of superphosphate of lime will form a suitable 
comjiost. When the pot is full of roots much water will be needed, also liquid 
manure frequently, and occasional rich top-dressings, or you will neither secure 
handsome foliage nor fine clusters of fruit. Unless the pot is very large and 
support is liberally given the plants will not be nearly so healthy and fine as if 
it were planted out. Mr. Ollerliead of Wimbledon has planted strong suckers in 
the spring which have afforded clusters of fruit weighing nearly 100 lbs. the 
same season, but he could not have obtained anything like such results had the 
plants been grow r n in pots. 
Pear Tree Ulcerated (J. T. S.).—li all the branches are in the state repre¬ 
sented in the sample before us it is very doubtful if your tree will ever become 
healthy. The excrescences impede the circulation of the sap to such an extent 
that the tree can make but little growth, and any fruit it may bear must be 
necessarily small. If the variety is good we should sever the branches below 
the affected parts, as if cutting it down for the purpose of grafting, and you 
would probably soon have a healthy tree again—that is, if the new' growth were 
not permitted to become infested w'ith the insects that have caused the injury 
in this case—American blight. 
Climbers for Conservatory (Alpha). —Your letter, like many others we 
receive, is of such a V. ind that we can neither answer satisfactorily to ourselves 
nor usefully to our correspondents. You ask for “ the best creepers for a con¬ 
servatory.” In the first place we have no idea how many you require, aud in 
the second we have nothing to guide us as to the space you desire them to 
occupy. You will perceive if we named a dozen and only half a dozen or less 
were needed that our reply w'ould be of no real service, as you would not know 
which to select from the superfluous list. Again, if v\e recommended Tacsonias. 
Cobieas, and Passifloras, which are so well adapted for a spacious building of 
30 feet high, they might be totally unsuited to your conservatory, which possibly 
may not be half that height. We trust, therefore, both for their own benefit 
and for our satisfaction that those needing selections of plants or fruits will 
state the number they require and the space, in the case of climbing plants 
especially, that they desire them to cover, and the position they are to occupy. 
If you will afford us the necessary information on these points your letter shall 
have our best attention. 
Grafting Oaks (J. E. B.). —The scions must be taken off at once and 
inserted in moist soil in a cool position, so that the stocks may be a little 
advanced in growth when grafted. Choose for the scions clean healthy two- 
year-old wood. Cut down the stocks, which we presume are small, close to 
the ground, graft in the usual manner, clay over and cover the clay with soil, 
leaving only the ends of the scions visible. If you have to graft high above 
ground the clay must be covered with moss or other material to prevent it 
cracking. We presume you are acquainted with the art of grafting ; if not, you 
had better take a lesson from a gardener, or you may possibly fail in your 
object. 
Camellia Flowers Falling (Rebecca).— It is difficult to determine what 
