JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Mrrch 2 1882. ] 
as yet too early the ground should he well trenched and liberally 
manured so as to have all in readiness for planting, which is best 
done w hen the seedling, or at most two-year-old plants, are starting 
into growth. Where the soil is stiff a liberal addition of material 
from the rubbish heap, after it has become well reduced, will be 
highly advantageous; indeed, in soils too clayey for Asparagus 
artificial beds should he formed of old material from the potting 
bench, the ground being well drained and beds formed 24 to 30 inches 
in depth. 
Seakale which has been forced and afterwards laid in should 
be planted out in rows about 18 inches apart, and 12 to 15 inches 
asunder, and these will form excellent crowns for subjecting to a 
similar process another season. If there be a deficiency of roots, 
or it is wished to increase the stock, the roots that have been re¬ 
served from those lifted for forcing should be planted, selecting 
healthy portions 4 to 6 inches long, and inserting them in rows the 
same distance apart as named above. Crowns that were considered 
too small for forcing should, after cutting off the growing point, be 
treated similarly. Seed may also be sown in rows 15 inches apart, 
covering them about an inch deep, and thinning the seedlings to a 
foot apart. 
Where Rhubarb has been lifted for forcing, proportionate fresh 
plantations should be made to maintain the supply of roots for the 
purpose in future seasons, planting divisions of older stools with 
two or more crowns and a fair portion of root in rows 3 or 4 feet 
apart according to the variety, which will be a sufficient distance for 
those to be lifted after a couple of years’ growth for forcing ; but for 
permanent stools a foot more distance should be allowed between the 
rows and plants. For forcing, Johnson’s St. Martin’s is the best, also 
for early use outdoors ; Victoria being large and good alike for all 
purposes, except for very early forcing ; Stott’s Monarch is the largest 
and excellent in quality. The ground for Rhubarb can hardly be 
too deeply trenched and liberally manured. 
A sowing should be made on a border at the base of a south wall 
of Cauliflower seed, Early London and Walcheren; Autumn Giant 
also being sown, as this and Eclipse, an admirable variety, withstand 
drought better than the first two, and to which they form a desirable 
succession ; also of Brussels Sprouts, Early Vienna and Drumhead 
Savoy; Heartwell and Ellam’s Early Cabbage ; and a little Leek 
seed for raising plants where these are required early. Also on a 
warm border should be sown Early Horn Carrots, Nantes being the 
best, and early Munich Turnip, which comes in several days in 
advance of any other variety. In a similar situation sow Scarlet and 
White Forcing Turnip Radish seed, and for a long variety Wood’s 
Frame; and to secure a supply of Lettuces for salading after the 
autumn-sown is exhausted, make a sowing in a warm situation of 
Paris Market and All-the-Year-Round of Cabbage varieties, Bath 
Sugarloaf, and Alexandra Cos, the thinnings being transplanted to 
good rich soil in the open, and afford a succession. 
Round Spinach may be sown in a single row between Peas, making 
a successional sowing of the latter and Broad Beans according to the 
probable requirements, earthing up and staking as the more forward 
require it. Onions should be sown as soon as practicable, also 
Parsnips ; and where Beet is required early a small sowing should 
be made in a sheltered position of the variety Egyptian. Celery 
for the main crop should now be sown in pans placed in a little 
heat until the young plants appear, then removing them to a 
cool house. Major Clarke’s Red, Ivery’s Nonsuch Pink, Sandring¬ 
ham, and Wright’s Giant are good sorts. 
Forcing Department .—Any pits or frames at liberty should be 
utilised by planting Potatoes that have sprouts half an inch to 
three-quarters of an inch long, and any pits furnished with hot- 
water pipes may be employed for French Beans, Ne Plus Ultra being 
very free, and Canadian Wonder the best of all. Sow Chili and 
other Capsicums, also Tomatoes, to obtain plants for cool houses, 
keeping the young plants in a light position, and in no more heat 
than will insure steady progressive growth. Shift those previously 
sown into larger pots as they require it, potting firmly, and train with 
one stem. Prick off Celery into boxes or beds in a little heat about 
3 inches apart, and admit air freely on all favourable occasions, so as 
181 
to keep the plants sturdy. Well ventilate pits or frames containing 
Potatoes, supplying when necessary tepid water, and earthing up 
lightly those sufficiently advanced. Attend to the requirements of 
Radishes, Carrots, and Lettuces in frames, watering early in the day, 
and thin early. If a sowing be made of Radishes and Carrots in 
cold frames they will precede those sown outdoors by some weeks. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vities .—Early Grapes approaching the stoning period will require 
careful treatment, maintaining a minimum temperature of 65°, ven¬ 
tilating early in the day, but avoid cold draughts—a very common 
cause of rust, and let the temperature rise to 85° by the aid of sun 
heat, closing early with plenty of moisture in the atmosphere. To 
prevent the attacks of red spider damp the borders at closing time 
with guano water, or preferably mulch them with short horse 
manure, and a little guano may be sprinkled in the evaporation 
troughs occasionally. Should red spider appear paint the return 
hot-water pipes thinly with flowers of sulphur mixed with skimmed 
milk. Fruiting Vines in pots must have generous treatment, afford" 
ing liquid manure 5° to 10° warmer than the house in which they are 
growing ; and where the pots are plunged the quality of the fruit 
will be much improved by allowing the roots to extend from the 
pots into the beds, allowing the Vines to make plenty of foliage. 
Disbud in succession houses, and as soon as the bunches can be 
seen raise the temperature to 55° to G0° at night, and 60° to 65° in the 
day artificially, with 10° to 158 rise from sun heat. If any bunches 
from the imperfect ripening of the wood have a tendency to twist or 
curl up a rather high and dry temperature at this stage will reduce 
it. If any Vines are starting irregularly, or at the top only, sling 
the rods in a horizontal position till all the shoots are a couple of 
inches long. Vines in flower set best when the air-moisture is not 
excessive ; a very moist or dry atmosphere should be equally avoided, 
ventilating moderately whenever the weather permits, closing early. 
Shaking the rods two or three times a day when the Vines are in 
flower will for most kinds be sufficient to insure a good set, but shy¬ 
setting kinds should have the pollen of Ilamburghs applied to them 
with a brush. 
Where the Grapes are thinned and approaching the stoning process 
examine the inside borders, and if at all dry soak well with water or 
liquid manure at 85°. Muscats, Lady Downe’s and other late sorts, 
may now be encouraged, as late Grapes of all kinds require a long 
growing season to insure their thorough ripening and sound keep¬ 
ing. A temperature of 50° to 55°, and 10° to 15° rise from sun heat, 
will be sufficient for the present, the rods and all available surfaces 
being damped occasionally to produce a genial atmosphere. 
Cherry House .—The flowers have now expanded. Artificial im¬ 
pregnation must he attended to on bright days when the house is 
freely ventilated, but if bees visit the blossom they will fertilise it. 
Afford if necessary a liberal supply of water in a tepid state to the 
borders. Open the house at 50°, above which allow a free circulation 
of air to pass through the house, regulating it according to the 
weather, artificial heat being only needed to prevent the temperature 
falling below 50° in the day and 40° at night. Keep a sharp look-out 
for caterpillars or grubs : one will be found rolled up in the leaves, 
and the other enclosed in a case attached to the under side of the 
leaves. 
Pines .—For those who have to maintain a supply of ripe Pine 
Apples through what is known as the London season and through 
the summer months the present is an important period, as a batch 
of suckers must now be started ; and to insure a speedy root-action 
unaccompanied by top growth until the plants have made roots to 
sustain it a brisk bottom heat is indispensable. A bed being in 
readiness to receive the plants, proceed with potting. Employ 6 or 
7-inch pots, draining about an inch deep, and employing fibrous loam 
rammed firmly round the base of the sucker ; plunge into the bed 
at once, not giving any water until roots are formed, as they will in 
a bed at a temperature of 90° to 95° in about ten days, when water 
should be given as necessary. If the weather be very bright shade 
from the midday sun, and sprinkle them lightly about twice a week, 
the temperature of the house or pit being kept at 55° to G5°. Any 
