March 9, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 205 
cient water to moisten every particle of soil. It is not necessary to remove the 
superfluous buds now; it is usually the best plan to wait until the bunches are 
visible, and when these are present in the growths at the base of the spurs, to 
remove those above them. It is important, too, that you do not have too many 
laterals. We do not like them much closer than 18 inches apart up each side of 
the rods, as the foliage then has space to develope, and without good foliage you 
cannot expect to have fine fruit. The stopping must depend on circumstances, 
but by all means permit two or even more leaves to remain beyond the bunches 
if there is space for them, but avoid overcrowding as you would a scourge. You 
had better crop rather lightly this year, and do not maintain a high forcing 
temperature. 
Pomegranate not Flowering (A. J.S.). —Your plants never will flower 
under the treatment you are pursuing of allowing the shoots (possibly strong) 
to grow unchecked until the autumn and then cutting them off “ for appear¬ 
ance.” The flowers are borne on small, hard, wire-like twiggy shoots that are 
not shortened, and these you must endeavour to produce. The first process we 
advise you to adopt is root-pruning, by digging round the plants as if preparing 
them for removal, cutting off all the roots beyond a certain radius (which can 
only be determined by the size and condition of the specimens), and filling in 
the trench with soil containing a large admixture of lime rubbish, ramming it 
down quite hard. This will check luxuriant growth ; but if any shoots appear to 
be starting strongly do not let them grow until the autumn, but pinch them 
early in summer, repeating the process as often as is needed. You will thus at 
the same time arrest root-action and admit the sun and air to the smaller 
growths, which, if well ripened, will produce flowers. What you must endeavour 
to provide are small short-jointed growths not exceeding 6 inches in length, 
and these by exposure to all the sun possible should be rendered quite hard. 
These growths should not be shortened, and the pruning of such must be done 
after flowering, not before. 
Mandarin Orange Culture (Sun Cristabel). —You will find much use¬ 
ful information upon Orange culture generally in a work by Mr. F. L. Sim- 
monds, entitled “ Tropical Agriculture,” which is published by Messrs. E. and 
F. N. Spon, 48, Charing Cross, and the price is, we believe, about 21s. Where 
Oranges are grown largely trees raised from seed are preferred, and as there all 
the varieties are found to come true from seed, this is a ready mode of raising a 
stock. In some districts the seeds are sown at regular distances apart in the 
land intended to be devoted to Oranges, and until the trees attain to bearing 
size, which they do in from four to six years, according to the soil and position, 
the ground is cropped with other fruits such as Melons, or vegetables. A mode¬ 
rately heavy soil is preferred to a light sandy soil; and as the trees form most 
of their roots near the surface, the soil is not much disturbed after they attain 
a good size, but surface dressings of manure are liberally applied. When grafted 
the Bitter Orange or Citron is selected for stocks. If you wish to send trees 
from this country they must be sent subject to the conditions described on 
page 472 of our last volume, the issue of November 24th, 1881. 
Destroying Red Spider (An Amateur of the Second Year ).—Your case is 
evidently a serious one, or the insects would not have attacked the Pelar¬ 
goniums—a circumstance that we have never known at this period of the year. 
For preventing the insects reaching the Vines you must adopt a bold measure 
—namely, at once destroy the Cucumber plants. As the plants have been 
bearing since Christmas and are now infested with red spider, nothing that you 
can do to them will render them profitable, and the insects cannot be extirpated 
without giving the house a thorough cleansing. First cleanse any plants you 
have in pots. If you dissolve 2 ozs. of softsoap in a gallon of water, and to this 
add 1 oz. of petroleum, mixing them well together, and dip the plants in this 
at a temperature of 120°, not many insects will remain alive, and such plants as 
you describe will not be injured. The oil can be mixed much better in soapy 
than in pure water, and if the solution is used at or about the temperature 
named, no sediment is left on the leaves. Top-dress the plants also with fresh 
soil and wash the pots before placing them in the other house. Next remove 
the soil from the Cucumber house and wash every portion of the woodwork and 
glass, also dress the walls with limewash in which a handful of sulphur is 
mixed. Thus you may eradicate the insects, and plant young Cucumber plants, 
which if kept clean and well managed will afford you far more and better fruits 
during the season than you can possibly obtain from the old plants. Let all the 
plants in the vinery be similarly cleansed, and by maintaining a healthy atmo¬ 
sphere, and giving the Vines a heavy syringing with pure water once a week, 
choosing the early afternoon of a fine day for the work, so that the foliage 
becomes dry before night, there is no reason the Vines should be attacked by 
the pest. You have done right in sulphuring the pipes. Brown sulphur is quite 
safe provided the pipes are not unduly heated when it is applied. We are glad 
to have your letter and suggestion, and if you will compile a list of the troubles 
of amateurs, and state the subjects on which specific information is needed, the 
matter shall have attention. 
Names of Fruits (J. A. TF.).—1, not known, probably local; 2, resembles 
New Northern Greening ; 8, Herefordshire Pearmain. (G. /!.). —No doubt you 
are animated with the best intentions by gathering Apples from the gardens of 
cottagers and sending them to us to be named. We have at the expenditure of 
much time named hundreds of fruits thus forwarded from time to time, and in 
all probability scarcely any after care has been taken to preserve those names, 
and possibly a number of them were never attached to the trees. The small 
Apple you have sent is Wykeham Pippin, the large one Dumelow’s Seedling. 
The others are poor specimens and not worth naming, nor can we undertake to 
name fruit under the circumstances indicated. 
Names of Plants (P. M.). — Aspidium mucronatum. (J. S. TJpex).— 
1, Begonia semperflorens ; 2, B. lucida; 3, B. fuchsioides ; 4, B. Ingrami; 5, 
B. Saundersii. (If. P.). —1, Acacia melanoxylon ; 2, Acacia lophantha ; 3, Tydasa 
Madame Heine ; 4, Ckamserantherum Beytrichii; 5, Acacia platyptera ; G, Acacia 
armata. (J. V. B.). —1, Lygodium scandens; 2, Adiantum assimile ; 3, Adian- 
tum hispidulum ; 4, Davallia canariensis; 5, Asplenium longissimnm ; G, Pteris 
serrulata. 
A Dead Hive (II. A. Wilkinson ).—“ On coming to reside here I bought 
two hives from the garden of a neighbour. One of the hives was heavy, said to 
be well filled with honey ; the other had had a super on it, but was light, and 
would require to be fed during the winter. Shortly after I. got them there 
arose a great commotion between them. I sent for a bee-keeper, who smoked 
them and quieted them for the time. Shortly after I began to feed the 
light one, and have continued to feed it till the present time. During fits of 
sunshine the bees would come out and buzz about. The bees of the other hive 
made no appearance. The other day I had it looked into, and found neither 
bees nor honey—nothing but empty combs. Must the combs be kept for a 
swarm or taken for wax ?” The above note, by your request, was submitted to 
Mr. Pettigrew, who observes — “ If the combs were built last year—in other words' 
if they are young and sweet, they may be used again with some advantage, but 
if they are old or black a swarm would do better without them. In good 
seasons for honey-gathering old combs hinder rather than help swarms. From 
the description given of your hives it is not easy to tell whether they were 
strong or weak when you got them, neither can wo tell how much they suffered 
from loss of bees by removal from a neighbouring garden at the time. We 
think with you that the fight was for the honey, though probably the victorious 
bees were not those of the other hive, but belonged to some neighbour.” 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— March 8. 
BUSINESS remains substantially the same as last week, and prices continue to 
be well maintained for superior produce. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. (t. 
8. 
d. 
8 . 
d 
Apples. 
} sieve 
2 
0 to 6 
0 
Lemons. 
etois 
0 
Apricots. 
doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Melons . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cherries. 
V lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Nectarine... 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnuts. 
bushel 18 
0 
0 
0 
Oranges .... 
4 
0 
« 
0 
Currants, Black . 
i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches .... 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ Red.... 
j sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pears,kitchen .. dozen 
i 
0 
1 
G 
Figs. 
dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
dessert .... 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Filberts... 
K>ib. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Pine Apples 
.... v lb 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Cobs. 
100 11. 
0 
65 
0 
Strawberries 
.... per oz. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
4 sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Walnut* ... 
7 
0 
8 
0 
Grapes . 
IF lb 
3 
• 
10 
• 
VEGETABLES. 
P 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d 
Artichokes. 
dozen 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Mushrooms 
A 
0 to 1 
fl 
Asparagus. 
bundle 
9 
0 
10 
0 
Mustard & Cress .. punnet 
0 
2 
0 
3 
Beans, Kidney... 
100 
2 
0 
2 
6 
Onions. 
3 
« 
0 
0 
Beet, Red. 
dozen 
i 
0 
2 
0 
pickling .. 
0 
0 
0 
5 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
i 
6 
Parsley. 
doz.bunches 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Brussels Sprouts. 
} sieve 
i 
3 
i 
6 
Parsnips .... 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
6 
i 
0 
Potatoes .... 
2 
9 
3 
e 
Carrots. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Kidney.... 
3 
0 
3 
0 
Capsicums. 
^ 100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Radishes.... 
doz .bunches 
1 
0 
0 
6 
Cauliflowers. 
. dozen 
1 
0 
3 
6 
Rhubarb.... 
0 
4 
0 
6 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Salsafy. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzo'nera 
i 
6 
0 
0 
Cucumbers. 
. each 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Seakale .... 
i 
0 
1 
s 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Shallots .... 
3 
0 
o 
Fennel. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Spinach .... 
3 
0 
0 
0 
Garlic . 
. tb. 
0 
6 
0 
0 
ate th. 
1 
0 
o 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
• 
Turnips. 
4 
0 
0 
Leeks. 
. bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Vegetable Marrows eaoh 
0 
0 
0 
0 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
ECONOMY OF THE FARMYARD. 
{Continued from page 1S5.) 
Although we think the last-named bowstring roofing for a 
covered yard the best, it is, however, a question which is cheapest 
as a waterproof covering. The corrugated iron sheets laid on 
thin boarding are advocated by the builders who introduced the 
bowstring principle for construction of the girders, and the chief 
reason assigned is, we presume, because it is light, and this seems 
to be especially necessary in the case of wide spaces. But we do 
not see the necessity as a rule of the wide span, because the span 
may be reduced without disadvantage in the event of the covered 
yard being divided into two or more compartments. This seems 
to be an important consideration, because if the yard is to be 
divided it may be roofed upon the wide ridge-and-furrow prin¬ 
ciple, and made substantial enough to carry the weight of 
slates or pantiles, either of which are enduring, and would 
require but little if any other ventilation if not laid on boarding. 
This, however, although a lasting roof, is expensive, and more 
often requires repairs than iron sheets, which if laid on boarding 
would also render ventilation necessary, and when painted white 
the heat of summer would be avoided. In the winter time, as 
such a building would be used only for store cattle or dairy cows 
it would be warm enough, if the sides and entrances are properly 
constructed for giving free access to horses and carts, having 
also windows or louvred apertures to furnish light. These, in 
the event of the roof being made on the ridge-and-furrow style, 
may be introduced at the ends of the ridged roof. 
Thus far we have endeavoured to draw comparisons for the 
consideration of the home farmer and the builder. But in refer- 
