212 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1G, 1882. 
for them. At this rate the same quantity may not be had from 
a given space as from closer planting, but the quality will be 
superior, and when Potatoes are planted so far apart it is always 
a good plan to have some green crop between. 
When a large number of stems are formed from one tuber the 
produce will generally be small, and for this reason some Potato 
exhibitors cut all the eyes out of their sets before planting except 
one or two, and others thin the growths as soon as they are seen 
above ground. In this way only two very strong stems come from 
each root, and the produce is increased in size. It might not be 
wise to treat all Potatoes in this way, but the quality of many 
might be improved if the weakest of the stems were removed early 
in the season. 
Respecting the depth to plant Potatoes, I think 3 inches from 
the surface is very suitable as a rule. All ours are planted in this 
way, and I see no reason to change. Of course they are all earthed 
up further on in the season, so that any tubers formed close to 
the surface are covered and not allowed to become green. Were 
earthing-up not practised we should plant the sets 6 inches from 
the surface ; in fact, this would be necessary to keep the tubers 
tender. 
At this time it is impossible to keep the seed Potatoes from 
starting into growth. If the place they are in is close and dark 
the shoots will soon become a foot or more high, and these 
growths are almost sure to be broken in planting ; but when they 
are so tall as this it is a good plan to remove the largest and 
allow only the short strong shoots to remain. These will make 
the best stems in the soil, and they will make robust growth im¬ 
mediately. All the growths, however, must not be removed ; to 
do this at planting time would cause the crop to be some weeks 
later than it would otherwise be. In planting it is rarely tubers 
of kidney varieties are cut or reduced, but large round tubers are 
generally made into two or more sets, care being taken that each 
has about two eyes. It is generally a good plan to cut up the 
seed some days or weeks before planting time, as this allows the 
cut part to heal, and it is not then so liable to decay prematurely. 
Besides planting as digging goes on there are other methods. 
Where the soil is ready turned, a thick blunt-pointed dibble may 
be used to make holes, and in each of these a set may be dropped, 
filling the hole again from the surrounding soil. At other times 
we have made holes with the spade, and the sets were then placed 
in position and covered. In planting in this way a good chance 
is given of placing any artificial manure or soil about the seed, 
and for “ fancy Potatoes ” this is a favourite method.—A Kitchen 
Gardener. 
EUPATORIUM (HEBECLINIUM) IANTHINUM. 
Amongst the many useful plants grown for greenhouse and 
conservatory decoration, few are more worthy of consideration 
than the above. Plants in flower can now be counted easily by 
the dozen ; forced bulbs, Lily of the Valley, Primulas, Cinerarias, 
Acacias, Azaleas, Camellias, and a host of greenhouse plants, 
besides Orchids and choicer stove plants, all contributing to the 
display. But the above flowering plant may be seen in nearly 
every garden, and I wish now to draw attention to this Eupa- 
torium, which is by no means common, though so useful and 
showy. The colour is a very distinct shade, one that is not often 
seen, and one that is much needed. The individual flowers are 
exactly like the common Ageratum in shape, but are much larger 
and brighter in colour. The plant is easily grown and easily 
propagated. 
Cuttings may be taken now and inserted singly in 6mall 60-size 
pots plunged in a little bottom heat. After the cuttings are rooted, 
which they will readily do, they should be removed to a more airy 
situation. When the young plants have made some growth they 
should be transferred into small 48-size pots and grown in a 
cool stove temperature through the summer without being stopped. 
The plants will produce fine single trusses of flower next year, 
which can be employed in a variety of ways. After the plants 
have flowered they should be cut back, and placed in large 48- 
size pots, and grown in the same manner as the first year. The 
second year these plants will produce four and five good trusses 
of flower. After they have ceased flowering for the second time 
they should again be cut back and repotted, employing rich soil 
each time. Plants four and five years old will produce as many 
as eighteen or twenty large trusses of flowers. 
In growing this valuable Eupatorium a little care should be 
exercised to avoid coddling them, for if grown in too high a 
temperature they become drawn and worthless. In the house 
where my plants are wintered the temperature rarely exceeds 
55° by night, with a rise of 5° to 10° during the day. The earliest 
plants will commence flowering about the middle of February, 
and in a suitable house will remain in good condition for at least 
ten weeks. In conclusion I may add, that as this is one of the 
strongest-growing species, it requires very rich turfy soil, and 
when the flower trusses are formed copious supplies of water are 
necessary, with occasional supplies of liquid manure.—W. K. 
PLANT LABELS. 
Ever since I commenced the culture of herbaceous plants and 
Roses I have felt the necessity for a good garden label, and con¬ 
sequently have read the remarks of Mr. Wilson and Mr. Wolley 
Hod with great interest. I like the idea of the use of paraffin 
much, and have frequently used it for waterproofing wood, though 
its value as a paint for labels never occurred to me. 
Allow me to suggest to those who intend trying it that the 
great secret of success in its use is to apply it very hot—as near 
its boiling point (about 370° C.) as possible ; and as at this tem¬ 
perature the bristles of an ordinary brush would be destroyed, the 
best way to coat the tallies will probably be to dip them into the 
molten wax for a few seconds with the help of a pair of pincers. 
I have had a label in use for my Roses during the last two years 
which has given me entire satisfaction ; but, unfortunately, it is 
not a cheap one, and it requires a special writing fluid. It con¬ 
sists of a thin slice of bone some 2 or 3 inches long and three- 
quarters wide, with a hole drilled in one extremity. Writing 
made with a weak solution of silver nitrate turns rapidly black and 
appears indestructible. I enclose one such label to the Editor. 
It has done duty for a long time in the open garden, and I send 
it because I happen to have it in my pocket, and not because it is 
better or worse than its fellows. 
I have lately thought of the new material known as “ Celluloid,” 
or “Xylonite,” as a promising substitute for bone ; it can be ob¬ 
tained in sheets of any thickness and at a moderately cheap rate. 
If tallies of this substance answer my expectations it will be very 
easy by means of a galvanised wire holder, or by the plan figured 
by Mr. Dod last week, to apply them to any situations.— 
Edward Collens, Erdington. 
[The specimen sent is If inch long, three-quarters of an incb 
wide, and rounded at the ends. It is very neat, durable, and the 
writing on it is clear and legible. We note that the name “ Jules 
Margottin ” is written on both sides of the label—a good and con¬ 
venient plan for labels suspended to Roses and other trees.] 
I have watched the progress of the label question with pleasure. 
Good lasting labels for general use are, indeed, very much wanted, 
and the one sent by Mr. C. W. Dodd, and figured in the Journal 
of the 2nd of March, is a very good specimen of what is wanted. 
There is one difficult point in it, and that is the fastening of the 
wire and label together. I venture to remark that a label of the 
same shape would answer the purpose well with a wire passed 
through the bottom hole, then up the back of the label, then 
through the top hole, and finally turned back over the uppermost 
end of the label. It also strengthens the label. I have used white 
and yellow paint mixed together, giving it a neutral tint. Names 
may be then written upon them with a pencil and finished off 
with a coating of spirit varnish, which stands the weather very 
well. The wood I use is white spruce. The wire used must be 
thicker or thinner according to the nature of the soil. 1 have 
made one as above described, and send it for your inspection.— 
G. Garner. 
[The colour, pale buff, is agreeable, and the mode of attaching 
the wire is simple and good—the best we have seen.] 
CAMELLIAS AT REGENT'S PARK. 
Messrs. W. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, have now a hand¬ 
some exhibition of Camellias in the gardens of the Royal Botanic 
Society, Regent’s Park ; and admirers of these plants will have 
a good opportunity of noting the comparative merits of the 
numerous varieties. The plants are in excellent health, and 
bearing abundance of expanded flowers, with numbers of buds 
giving promise of a continuance of the display for a considerable 
time. About two hundred plants are arranged to form a bank 
extending the full length of the corridor, and they vary in size 
from 5 to 8 or 9 feet in height. The stage at the opposite side of 
the corridor is occupied with boxes of Camellia blooms, some 
fine Hyacinths in pots, well-grown Lachenalias, and other plants 
constituting a pretty display of flowers. 
The varieties of Camellias are so numerous and good that it is 
almost impossible to make a short selection, but the following 
may be named as among the best. Of the comparatively new 
forms C. M. Hovey is noteworthy for its fine, imbricated, rich 
