March 16, 1882. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 225 
Mulching Vine Border (F. J.). —We presume the roots of the Vine have 
not access to an outside border, as we think all Black Hamburgh Vine roots 
should when under the management of inexperienced amateurs. We can no 
more tell you “ how often the border should be watered ” than we can tell you 
how often you should wash your hands. Mulch the borders as you propose, but 
the manure need not be rich at present, and then apply water as often as the 
soil will crumble readily, not “ cake,” when a portion is grasped in the hand. 
Water may be applied as you suggest, sufficient being given to penetrate the 
entire mass of soil. You had better obtain our Vine Manual, and follow the 
advice contained therein so far as it applies to your case, and if you need further 
information write to us. 
Hyacinths not Flowering (Salopian). —The fact that your friend's 
plants, of which you have sent specimens, were, after potting, covered with 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse, and have not flowered, while yours covered with ashes 
have been satisfactory, affords no proof that the evil is attributable to the cover¬ 
ing material. The finest Hyacinths that are exhibited in London every year 
are in their earlier stages covered with the fibre in question, and not with ashes. 
As the growth of the plant sent is so far advanced, we cannot determine the 
question as to the solidity and maturity'of the bulbs when they were potted. 
Supposing that they were good bulbs, we will point out two causes that produce 
effects similar to those represented in the plants before us—namely, luxuriant 
foliage and stunted spikes with decaying flower buds. One is leaving the plants 
too long in the plunging material, the other is too rich soil or other stimulants 
applied too soon, forcing the growth of the foliage at the expense of the flowers. 
We have this spring proved by experiment the ill effects of leaving the bulbs 
buried too long and too thickly, and some plants that we have purposely so 
treated are in the condition that those you have sent are, but these latter bear 
unmistakeable signs of too generous treatment. The foliage is broad, some¬ 
what flabby, and the darkest of dark green. Whether liquid manure applied too 
soon has caused this, or whether it is the result of the exceeding richness of the 
soil, we know not. But reasoning on the assumption that the bulbs were sound 
and good (for they may have been defective), we think we have indicated the 
cause of the present condition of the plants—namely, they have either been 
buried too long or overfed, while possibly they have been subjected to both 
these evils. 
Exhibiting Hardy Plants (Idem).— All the plants you name are hardy, 
assuming that the Rhododendrons are of the ponticum or caneasicum type, and 
not Himalayan or“ greenhouse ” kinds ; but whether they are eligible for the pur¬ 
pose in question depends entirely on the object of the committee in providing 
the class. Some of the plants you name are certainly not “ spring-flowering.” 
and they could not be had in bloom in March without much forcing, and others, 
we think, not at all at the time of your show ; at any rate we shall be glad to 
see flowers of Lilium candidum and Anemone japonica in March, which we pre¬ 
sume you will have, or you would not have sought our advice on exhibiting 
them then in a class for hardy spring flowers. In the case of this kind there is 
only one way of settling the point, and that is by submitting the question to the 
committee. If the object of the framers of the schedule has been to encourage 
the culture of hardy plants that flower naturally in the spring, say during March, 
April, and early May, then some of the plants named will be ineligible; but if 
they desire to see how man}- hardy plants can be forced into flower in March, 
then those you name cannot be excluded. But under any circumstances we 
think Lily of the Valley, Dielytras Spiraeas, and early hardy Rhododendrons 
would not be objected to by the judges, as those plants are essentially “ spring¬ 
flowering.” The class is very loosely worded, as it does not even state the plants 
are to be distinct, species or varieties. 
Vines in Pots (R. C.).—It your young Vines, raised from eyes, are now 
in small pots, they will need shifting into larger when the roots protrude 
through the drainage and before they are matted closely round the side3 
of the pots. As you have not stated what sized pots they are in now it is 
impossible for us to state the next size pots in which to place them. They may, 
however, be two or three sizes larger. The work of potting must be done care¬ 
fully and without injuring any of the roots; and the soil, turfy loam with a 
third of decayed manure and a free admixture of wood ashes, should be warmed 
before being used. Care and judgment must be exercised in watering until 
the roots take possession of the new soil, and then also ; but at first there is 
danger in overwatering, still the foliage must never flag, and syringing early 
on fine afternoons will be beneficial. They may be stopped once when from 
3 to 5 feet high according to the length of rafter. They are fruited in pots 
ranging from 12 to 15 inches in diameter according to the strength of the 
canes. It is the custom to fruit Vines in pots heavily the first season and then 
destroy them, having others in readiness to take their places ; but with light 
cropping and good culture they may be kept in a fruitful state for two or more 
years. If you have had little or no experience in Grape culture you will find 
our Vine Manual of great service ; it can be had from this office post free 
in return for 3s. 2d. Do not use the soil containing so many grubs for any 
purpose. They are the larvae of a cranefly, probably Tipula gigantea. 
Ghent Azalea Seed (E. F.). —Your letter, as requested, was forwarded to 
Mr. Bardney, who has sent the following reply, which will also meet the requests 
of other correspondents who have sought for information on the same subject:— 
“ No doubt you could obtain seed from any well-known seed firm, or in all proba¬ 
bility from those who raise quantities of these plants from seed annually and 
have a seed establishment as well. I do not recollect seeing seed advertised of 
Ghent Azaleas, probably because the demand for it at the present time is very 
small, aud few private growers raise their own seedlings, except when they save 
their own seed from some good kinds. The trade, as a rule, only save sufficient 
to obtain their annual supply of seedlings. I should not advise purchased seed 
to be relied upon, because the seedlings might be grown until they reach a 
flowering condition and then prove a disappointment. The best course to 
pursue, if you do not possess any good varieties, would be to purchase a few 
good named kinds well set with flower buds. From them you could save seed 
and raise the seedlings the following season, or sow as directed on page 167 as 
soon as gathered. Seedling plants, if obtained from any reliable source, would 
undoubtedly turn out well. I have seedlings of A. mollis in flower at the 
present time with blooms twice the size of those of Baron Edouard de Roth¬ 
schild, which is considered a very good one, and quite equal to that variety in 
colour.” 
Raising Seedlings (Kittie). —Precisely the same conditions are requisite 
for raising Begonias as for raising Gloxinias, and we can only attribute your 
failure with the latter either to inferior seed or some accident in management, 
such as the soil becoming too dry and preventing germination, or a slug eating 
the seedlings before you saw them. Light sandy soil kept constantly moist, a 
square of glass over the pots for arresting evaporation, shade from the sun, a 
brisk temperature and moist atmosphere, are the essentials for success. Lobelias 
and Phloxes require practically the same treatment, but the seeds will germinate 
in less heat. Much seed is spoiled by covering it too deeply, and if very small 
seeds are pressed gently into a smooth surface, and that surface is kept con¬ 
stantly moist and quite dark, the germination of good seed is certain—of course, 
given the necessary heat of from 60° to 80°. Light, however, must be very 
gradually admitted the moment the seedlings appear, or they will quickly 
perish. Calceolaria seed is sown in July or August, and instead of the pots 
being placed in heat, as a dry greenhouse, the greatest success is attained by 
placing them in the most cool and moist position that can be found, such as 
under a handlight on the north side of a wall or building, the pots being placed 
in large saucers or pans of water. The soil is then kept continually moist by 
capillary attraction, and it is not necessary to apply any water to the surface of 
the soil until the seedlings appear—a matter of great importance in the germi¬ 
nation of all very small seeds. The soil for Calceolarias, in fact for all the 
plants you name, may be the same as that in which you successfully raise 
Gloxinias. 
Profits of a Garden—Vague Questions (J. TP.). —We receive many 
singular questions during the course of the year, and always do our best to 
answer them; but some in their nature, and others by the vagueness of lan¬ 
guage employed in propounding them, are unanswerable. You have contrived to 
embody two difficulties in the fewest possible number of words, which we quote 
—“ What may be taken as an average profit from a garden fairly managed of, 
say, one acre, and an orchard of one acre.” We take it as a compliment to be 
supposed competent to answer a letter of that kind satisfactorily. First, the 
subject of estimating the profits of land is difficult in itself, and it is simply 
rendered impossible when no data whatever is given to enable us even to con¬ 
sider the subject as bearing on this particular case. We can only say generally 
that the site, the soil, the position, the locality (whether favourable for the sale 
of produce or otherwise), the judgment exercised in management, all affect 
to a more or less serious extent subjects of this nature. Even with good 
management some gardens can scarcely be rendered remunerative, while 
others will produce crops in some seasons worth £100 an acre. The question 
referring to the orchard is even more indefinite. Some orchards, consisting of 
decrepit trees and worthless varieties, are not worth the space they occupy ; 
others are unremunerative because the trees have not arrived at a bearing state. 
Some fruits are more profitable than others, according to the districts in which 
they are grown—an aspect of the question on which you are strangely silent. 
For one reason we are glad to have your letter, as it has enabled us to point out 
the difficulties we have to contend with in replying to questions which are, for 
want of thought, submitted to us in a manner that totally precludes their being 
answered satisfactorily either to our querists or ourselves. We are most willing 
to aid all who seek our advice, but we can only do so when they afford us the 
means of understanding each case, and the influences as far as possible by which 
it is affected. 
Libonia floribunda Culture (D. A. Z .).—A successful cultivator of 
this plant treats it as follows—“Small bushy plants laden with their pretty 
orange scarlet tubular flowers are valuable for dinner-table and room decora¬ 
tion, producing a very charming effect. It is also suitable for arranging 
amongst other plants in the conservatory. Unless large specimens are required 
small plants are the most useful for general decorative purposes. After flowering 
they should be pruned aud placed in heat. The young shoots when an inch 
long make good cuttings, and should be inserted in light sandy loam, the pots 
being placed in a moist gentle bottom heat. When the cuttings have rooted 
they should be transferred singly into 2J-inch pots, employing a compost of two 
parts turfy loam, one part leaf soil, and one part well-decomposed manure, with 
plenty of sand to render the soil porous. After potting the plants must be kept 
in a close house and shaded for a few days; afterwards assign them positions 
near the glass, with full exposure to the sun, in a temperature ranging from 65° 
to 75°. Syringe them twice on fine days, and frequently pinch the points out 
of the shoots to induce the plants to become dwarf and bushy. As they increase 
in size they must be potted, employing pots an inch larger each time. About 
the end of June they may be gradually hardened off and placed in cool pits or 
frames, which must be ventilated freely' on bright days, and supply the plants 
with plenty of water; liquid manure may also be given two or three times a 
week with beneficial results. About October the plants must be taken in the 
greenhouse, where they thrive in a temperature from 45° to 55°. By the end of 
November they will commence flowering, and will remain in great beauty till 
March.” In your mild climate the plants would thrive well planted out in June 
in a sunny position, repotting them in September. If not planted out, the old 
plants after having been pruned and fresh growth started may be partially dis¬ 
rooted, repotted, and treated as recommended for young plants. 
Egg Plants (Idem). —These are stove plants, and cannot be raised and 
grown well without the convenience of a frame or house having a minimum 
temperature of 65° to 60°. A Cucumber frame is suitable for raising the plants 
and growing them in their early stages, afterwards placing them on the shelf of 
a stove. When fully grown and fruiting they v ill succeed in a conservatory or 
greenhouse. Sow the seed in March or early April. When the seedlings are 
large enough pot them in clean well-drained 3-inch pots, shading if needed for a 
day or two, watering when needed with warm water, and treating them gene¬ 
rally' the same as Cucumber plants. The soil above mentioned for Libonias will 
be suitable. When the roots protrude through the pots, and before the plants 
are root-bound, shift them into pots two sizes larger, using a little stronger soil 
than before. They' can be again repotted if large plants are required. Apply 
water with care at the first, but when the pots are filled with roots copious 
supplies will be needed, and clear liquid manure occasionally. Syringe them 
regularly during the summer, as they are much liable to the attacks of red spider. 
In hot weather in summer the plants succeed in a pit or frame, the ashes on 
which the pots stand always being kept moist, aud the lights closed early in the 
afternoon, syringing the plants freely ; but if the pots can be plunged in gentle 
bottom heat afforded by leaves, manure, or tan, it will be to them an advantage. 
Names of Plants (No Name). —1, Eclieveria retusa ; 2, Specimen insuffi¬ 
cient without fructification ; 3, Sparm.innia africana; 4, Acacia arrnata; 5, 
resembles a vigorous form of Acacia lineata. (C. Ii. B.). —2, Scilla amcena; 3, 
Scilla bifolia alba; 4, Scilla siberica. The other specimens are insufficient for 
determining their names. (X., York). —1, Oncidium Krameri; 2, Dendrobium 
luteolum ; 3, Asplenium cicutarium ; 4 , Adiantum farleyense. (R. S. V.). —1, Be¬ 
gonia manicata ; 2, Laclienalia tricolor ; 3, Lachenalia Nelsoni. (F„ Surrey).— 
1, Anemone fulgens ; 2, Cydouia japonica; 3, Crocus Sieberi. (IF. A’.).—1, Adi- 
autum tetraphyllum; 2, Davallia canariensis ; 3, Hymenophyllum hirsutum ; 
4, Trichomanes trichoideum ; 5, Doodia caudafa ; 6, Ceterach officinarum. (G. II.). 
—1, Ccelogyne cristata; 2, Coelogyne cristata Lemoniana ; 3, Dendrobium Bry- 
merianum ; 4, Dendrobium nobile ; 5, Dendrobium Ainsworthi. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.—March 15. 
TRACE very quiet, with forced fruits and vegetables lower, Grapes alone main¬ 
taining their value. Rough vegetables plentiful. 
