242 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 23, m2. 
upon these subjects given in books presumed to be reliable is not 
always to be depended upon ; species formerly reputed to be hurtful 
have in some instances almost disappeared from gardens, or they 
have proved to be only the foes of other insects. Then, from time to 
time, we discover new enemies, or old enemies hitherto unnoticed, 
and there is an interesting field for research in the relationship there 
is between the health of a plant and its liabilities to insect attack ; 
and the comparison of experiments made in different directions as to 
preventive or remedial plans may lead to the general adoption of 
those methods of dealing with insect foes that have proved most 
effective. 
A large space in this report is necessarily devoted to the Turnip, 
which has been in 1881 a rather unlucky vegetable. The year stands 
out prominently amongst the past years as one in which the much- 
dreaded “ fly ” played havoc—almost, indeed, so Miss Ormerod thinks, 
to the extent of being a “ national calamity ” for the time. Roughly 
calculated she considers the direct loss in England and Scotland 
could not be less than £070,000, and to this must be added an in¬ 
direct loss which cannot well be computed. This mischief was done 
by species of Phyllotrita or Haltica, the chief offender being the 
familiar striped species H. nemorum, but in some places H. undulata 
turned out to be the objectionable fly or flea. The habits of all seem 
nearly similar, there being a succession of broods in one season, 
though H. nemorum is perhaps the most prolific and hardiest species. 
In Kent and in some other places the insects attacked beds of 
Cabbages that were growing near the Turnips they had been pre¬ 
viously feeding upon, and entirely destroyed them. The range of 
this special attack in England was “ through the counties extending 
from Northumberland and Cumberland, along the coast by Kent to 
Devon and Somerset, including in this range some of the more in¬ 
land counties, as Beds, Herts, and Wilts. In the south, midland, and 
west it occurred at localities in Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, Mon¬ 
mouthshire. Herefordshire, and Derbyshire.” Some counties escaped 
entirely ; Wales suffered little. The returns from Scotland report 
the pest as prevalent on the border and south counties, up the east 
coast to Fife, in Lanark, and as far north as Perth and Argyle. 
One curious circumstance noted was, in many places the Charlock 
was attacked and demolished by the Turnip flea. Many who had 
tried soot, lime, and guano as applications to save a crop partially 
bitten found these of use, but only when there was moisture present. 
All agree that the Turnip flea flourishes most when there is a dry 
spring and early summer. Thick sowing has been recommended, 
particularly if this be done with seed of various ages and the addition 
of Mustard in small quantity, because the species of Haltica have a 
partiality for this, even preferring it to Charlock. Steeping the seeds 
in paraffin, turpentine, <Szc., has not proved notably efficacious. Some 
agriculturists have succeeded in killing myriads of the “flies” by 
rolling, by driving sheep over the fields, or by dragging a sort of 
machine contrived of boards, upon which tar or some viscid substance 
was smeared, and by which the “ flies ” were entangled. Crops well 
manured often escaped where adjacent crops on impovished land 
suffered. In some districts of Scotland damage was done by a beetle 
of another tribe, the weevil (Centorl^-nchus contractus), which nipped 
the young Turnips just when they were showing themselves above 
the soil. Gaslime and quicklime were applied as a remedy with 
tolerable success. The tiny insect called the Turnip-flower beetle 
(Meligethes mneus) was remarkably plentiful in several districts; 
these at first attack the blossoms and afterwards nibble the flower- 
stalks and seed-pods. On Cabbage flowers they occurred also in parts 
of Scotland. There were many places in the south of England, again, 
where the caterpillars of the Turnip moth (Agrotis segetum) swarmed. 
Apart from the Turnips and Swedes, vegetables suffered, on the 
whole, less from their insect enemies than in some seasons. Probably 
this arose from the dryness of the earlier months of 1881. From 
Scotland there came sundry complaints about a maggot, which in 
some neighbourhoods seriously injured Cabbages and Cauliflowers. 
This proved.to be the larva of Anthomyia Brassicse, which, when 
hatched, begins by eating the stems, then works down into the roots 
of the plant. In many districts of England the Gooseberry sawfly 
(Nematus Ribesii) was complained of; the application of paraffin 
in the strength of 4 ozs. to a gallon of water used before fruiting 
was found beneficial. We hope not only naturalists, but gardeners, 
will render all possible aid to Miss Ormerod in the important work 
she has undertaken. 
CULTURE OF LACHENALIAS. 
The genus Lachenalia includes between forty and fifty species, 
many of which are exceedingly beautiful. They are all natives 
of the Cape with one or two exceptions, therefore their require¬ 
ments are identical with the majority of Cape bulbs, many of 
which produce flowers cf great beauty. The colours in some are 
almost indescribable, whilst in others the flowers are inconspicuous 
and scarcely worth growing for general purposes. Many fine 
bulbous plants that used to be grown well years ago are almost 
lost to cultivation now ; but Lachenalias are not likely to be 
neglected to such an extent as that. At the same time it is a 
great pity they are not more popular. 
L. tricolor must rank amongst the foremost of the species both 
for colour and usefulness, and when once thoroughly established 
in a garden its good qualities cannot fail to be appreciated. 
L. tricolor was introduced to this country more than a century 
ago ; and although in the country so many years it has rarely been 
seen in perfection, and yet its cultivation is very simple. It has 
been remarked many times that there are more plants killed in 
this country through “coddling” than there are through rough 
treatment, and no doubt there is great truth in that statement, 
which is especially applicable to Lachenalias. Having been 
successful the last few years with the cultivation of L. tricolor, 
I venture to offer a few remarks to the readers of the Journal, 
trusting they may prove acceptable to those that are about to give 
them a trial. 
Their treatment is very easy, nevertheless they are not thoroughly 
understood by many, otherwise we should see them more fre¬ 
quently. They are naturally deciduous, and to secure success it is 
highly necessary to well ripen the bulbs after flowering. August 
is about the best time to repot them. The bulbs should be shaken 
out from the old soil and arranged in three sizes. Of the largest 
I place half a dozen in small 48-size pots. These, of course, will 
produce the largest and strongest spikes of flowers. The second 
size can be potted eight or nine in the same size pot. The 
smallest can be grown in a pan. The compost I employ is half 
loam and half leaf soil, with a little sand. The pots will require 
to be moderately well drained, and over the drainage I sprinkle a 
little soot. The pots can then be placed outdoors in a sheltered 
position or in a cold frame. Very little water will be required till 
after growth commences, when they should be treated moie liber¬ 
ally. Whilst growing the plants should occupy a light airy posi¬ 
tion, or they speedily become drawn and worthless. 
The strongest bulbs will show their flower spikes about the 
latter end of November, when a few may be placed in a little 
higher temperature. By so doing they will be in flower by 
Christmas, and a display may be maintained for four or five 
months with the succeeding plants. After the flower spikes are 
visible a little weak liquid manure may be given advantageously. 
The bulbs that were forced first this year should be kept apart 
from the others, in order that they may be started first next year. 
When the bulbs have ceased flowering the foliage will soon show 
signs of decay. Water must then be gradually withheld, and in 
that state should remain till they are again potted for another 
season. I have several specimens in flower now, and have had 
some since Christmas. Some of the spikes have over twenty 
expanded flowers, with numerous buds that are not yet developed. 
When in flower they look exceedingly pretty arranged among other 
occupants of the greenhouse or conservatory, and last for several 
weeks.—W. K. 
FUCHSIAS FOR AMATEURS. 
We sometimes find in small gardens a neglected frame. Not 
unfrequently this results from so valuable an adjunct being turned 
into a source of annoyance and disappointment through an in¬ 
judicious attempt to grow a heterogeneous collection of plants 
unsuited to such quarters or to uniform treatment. Failure ensues, 
and the dilapidated frame testifies to its owner’s loss of interest in 
what should be a source of pleasure for a great part of the year. 
I know no plant better adapted to such accommodation, nor 
any that will give greater gratification, than the Fuchsia, and I 
now give a few opportune hints as to good varieties and their 
management. 
I devote a frame 4 feet square to about a dozen plants. In 
the late autumn, after these have well flowered, I easily dispose 
of them to someone having more ample accommodation on con¬ 
dition of receiving rooted cuttings in the spring. To those with 
large houses these are useful; they would be too large for my 
purpose the second year. 
Fuchsias can be well grown without heat, but I would advise 
all who can obtain it to fill the frame with stable manure about 
the beginning or middle of April. The requisite depth can be 
obtained by throwing out the soil to about a foot or more. The 
usual proportions of such a frame would ultimately necessitate 
that being done to afford sufficient height for the plants. Shake 
the dung well out, water it occasionally in the course of filling, 
press it moderately together with the fork, and a sufficient hot¬ 
bed is easily made. If a quantity of fresh or half-decayed leaves 
can be had, their admixture will secure a more moderate and 
lasting heat. Fill the frame, as the whole will subside con¬ 
siderably. On the top place a few inches depth of sifted leaf soil 
and sand. This makes a clean substance in which to insert the 
pots, and with the leaves will give a most useful store of material 
for potting. 
Asters, Marigolds, &c., can be sown, pricked out, and finally 
disposed of in the garden, leaving the frame available for the 
