246 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ March 23, 1882. 
B. K. Bliss & Sons, 34, Barclay Street, New York. —Catalogue of 
Potatoes (Illustrated). 
George Templeton, Prestwick, N.B.— Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers. 
S. B. is W. F. Parish, San Bernardino, California. —List of Plants 
Growing in South California. 
*** All correspondence shonld be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Rose Cuttings (H. 5.).— Different methods of striking cuttings of Roses 
were described in the Journal last autumn. If you will state the plan you 
followed, whether the cuttings were inserted in a frame or the open air, their 
present condition and distances apart, we will gladly advise you on the subject. 
Seedling Oxlips (.4. Fitch).— The flowers arrived in such a dried and 
shrivelled state that we can scarcely form an < pinion of them. They appear to 
resemble Primroses, while the leaf is downy like that of the Cowslip. You do 
not say whether the flowers are solitary or produced in umbels ; if the latter the 
stems are of unusual length. 
Hose-in-Hose Polyanthuses (A).—The flowers are very attractive 
good in size and form, and represented in various colours, the majority being 
very rich. It is not often we have better examples of duplex Polyanthuses 
brought to our notice, and you cannot do better than continue raising seedlings 
from the best flowers. 
Double White Azaleas (S. L. B ). —There are very few varieties such as 
you appear to require, but with a good stock of the following you would be able 
to insure a supply of flowers from December to late in summer. They are named 
in the order they flower—Narcissiflora, A. Borsig, Bernhard, Andreas alba, Plag 
of Truce, and Madeleine. These are double and semi-double, the flowers of good 
substance, and pure white. 
Marechal Niel Rose Unhealthy (II. T. D .).—You say nothing what 
ever relative to the age of the plant nor the stock, if any, on which it is worked 
The plant is debilitated, but from what cause we have no means of determining 
Probably you did not prune it sufficiently after it flowered last year, and hence 
it has made a number of weak growths and small foliage instead of strong shoots 
and large leaves. You will see the best method of growing this Rose alluded 
to in another page under the heading of “ Doings at Burghley.” Have you 
given the plant liquid manure ? 
Grubs Attacking Plants (II. TP. N., Suston). —These are the larvas of a 
small beetle or weevil, Otiorhynchus sulcatus, often injurious during the spring, 
especially to succulent plants, through its feeding upon their roots or stems. 
The application of articles that are sufficiently caustic to kill the grubs is apt 
to destroy the plants also. Some have found that clear lime water is of service 
in checking their ravages, the plants being freely watered with this. Paraffin 
diluted to the extent of 1 oz. with two gallons of water has been safely used, 
the solution being well agitated. One of the stems enclosed contained a mass of 
small worms that had located themselves in a hollow made by a beetle grub. 
These may have been nurtured in the manure mentioned, though the beetles 
would not be thus introduced. 
Dielytras for Forcing (Old Subscriber). —Although it is necessary to cut 
some of the large roots of Dielytras when taking the clumps up for forcing, the 
crowns will yet grow freely' and produce flowers abundantly if copious supplies 
of water are given and liquid manure occasionally, as numerous small feeding 
roots are speedily formed when the plants are grown under favourable conditions. 
Root-mutilation can of course be avoided by growing the plants in pots plunged 
in ashes or soil, but unless they are well supported through their season of growth 
such strong crowns will not be formed as if the plants were planted out in suit¬ 
able soil and a good position. 
Azalea mollis and Andromeda floribunda (Idem). —The details of 
culture on page 167 relative to the culture of Ghent Azaleas apply equally to 
varieties of Azalea mollis, and you cannot do better than follow Mr. Bardney’s 
advice. You do not say whether the Azaleas and Andromedas to which you 
refer have been forced this spring or not. If they have not they will need 
little or no preparation for forcing next year, but if they have been forced the 
growth must be encouraged in a very light and cool house, and the plants 
plunged or planted out in the open air for those growths to mature. If plunged 
much care and attention in watering are required to be exercised throughout 
the season. 
Gravel Walk (li. B.). —The most inexpensive method that we can suggest 
“ in mating a gravel walk to prevent weeds and Dandelions coming through ” is 
to spread a layer 3 inches thick of gaslime before using the gravel. As there are 
gasworks in your district the lime refuse could be had at little cost; but if there 
are Dandelion roots in the soil why not dig them out before making the walk ? 
All the weeds on walks do not “ come through,” but the majority are the result 
of seed scattered on the surface. Walks can be kept free from grass by a dressing 
of salt once a year, and weeds do not grow at all in well-made asphalt or concrete 
walks. Yery few weeds, however, will come through a layer of fresh gaslime. 
Various (Reader). —Disbud the Vines gradually, removing a few buds at a 
time at intervals of three or four days, retaining those that are best placed or 
which show the best bunches, which growths alone should be left to develope 
foliage, so that every leaf can be fully exposed to the sun. For forming pyramid 
Coleuses proceed as if you were forming pyramid Fuchsias—that is, train the 
leading shoot upright; when it is 9 inches long pinch off the point and you 
will obtain two shoots, one of which train upright as before, pinching the other 
according to your judgment, and continue the same process until the specimen 
is formed. Sow the Deodar seeds in a bed of sandy loam and peat, over which 
place a frame; keep the soil moist, not so much by frequent applications of 
water as by shading to prevent evaporation, and wait patiently until the seed¬ 
lings appear. 
Amaryllises not Flowering (-4 Toting Gardener). —Small offsets sur¬ 
rounding larger bulbs will not prevent the former flowering provided the 
foliage is well developed and the growth is matured; still it is advisable to 
remove the offsets when large enough. The plants ought certainly not to have 
been dried off in July. Grow the plants in a warm and very light position ; in 
August diminish the supply of water and expose them to the full sun and air, 
applying throughout September only sufficient water to keep the foliage fresh. 
During October, November, and December give no water, and all the bulbs 
that are strong enough will flower in the spring. Your plant is a Lantana. 
Tulips and Hyacinths (Vero). —Tulip flowers often fail to expand in 
consequence of the pots remaining covered too long, and the growths covered 
too deeply' with ashes. If this is not the cause of the buds withering in your 
case, we are unable to account for the disappointing circumstance. Hyacinths 
after flowering should be placed in a light position, and be watered to keep the 
foliage fresh as long as possible. A frame at this season is suitable. If you place 
them at once in the open air they must be shaded from the bright sun for a few 
days or the leaves will be scorched, and from possible frost at night. Remove 
the spikes as soon as tte flowers fade, and endeavour to produce stout healthy 
foliage, and allow this to mature under the full influence of sun and air. The 
bulbs will then afford useful flowers next year, but not massive spikes. 
Vines for Small House (Brookfield).—Tie do not consider it wise to have 
many varieties in one house, especially to grow early and late kinds in the 
same structure. There is no white Grape equal to the Muscat of Alexandria for 
late autumn and winter use, but it does not ripen well in all vineries managed 
by amateurs. You say not a word about the size and means of heating your 
house, and it is just possible you may defeat your object by attempting to crowd 
in too many Vines. We, however, name the number you require somewhat in 
their order of ripening—Foster's White Seedling, Black Hamburgh, Madresfield 
Court, Muscat of Alexandria, Trebbiano, Alicante, Mrs. Pince’s Muscat, and Lady 
Downe’s Seedling ; but we think it very easy to err by planting them all in one 
« small house.” “Half of them would in all probability give far more satisfaction. 
This, however, depends on the object you have in view and the means at your 
disposal for attaining it. 
Thrips on Acacia (S. F.).— The spray you have sent is not of a Heath 
but Acacia armata, which is a very useful plant for the decoration of the green¬ 
house or conservatory in spring. The insects may be destroyed by syringing 
the plant with a solution of petroleum, prepared as described in a reply to 
another correspondent, or by dissolving 2 ozs. either of nicotine soap or Gishurst 
compound in a gallon of water. The plant should be laid down and syringed 
forcibly on all sides, repeating the process in about ten days; it may after¬ 
wards be syringed w.th pure water. After the plant has flowered it should be 
moderately pruned, placed in a genial temperature, and syringed occasionally 
to encourage fresh growth. When the shoots are half an inch long the plant 
should be repotted if needed or top-dressed. It succeeds in equal parts of light 
turfy loam and turfy peat, with a liberal admixture of sand, potting firmly'.. As 
the growths extend they must be exposed to abundance of light and air, a 
frame in the summer being suitable with the lights removed day and night in 
warm weather except during heavy rains ; or the plant may be placed outdoors 
in the full sun for a few weeks in August, the pot being shaded to prevent the 
roots being scorched. The Tropteolum is T. Lobbianum, or one of its varieties. 
Young Pelargoniums (C. E. C.).— Take off the tops 4 or 5 inches long 
and insert them as cuttings, each in the centre of a 2{-inch pot, in sandy soil, 
and place them on the shelf of a greenhouse if you have not a warmer structure. 
They will make attractive flowering plants during the season. When roots pro¬ 
trude through the pots repot firmly in turfy loam and a little decayed manure. 
Pinch out the points of the plants when they have produced two or three fresh 
leaves, and grow them in a very light position with abundance of air. The 
decapitated plants will also be rendered bushy, and will flower freely under the 
same general treatment. 
Planting Violets (idem).—April is a good time for procuring and plant¬ 
ing Violets. They like deep, rather rich, and rather strong soil, and a somewhat 
shaded position. In the full sun they are often much injured by red spider 
attacking the foliage. Strong offshoots or young plants may be planted a foot 
apart. As you do not state the age and strength of your Rose we cannot say 
how it should be treated ; but if it is established and strong the blooms may 
expand as it is growing under glass; if weak it should be pruned, so as to pro¬ 
mote free growth. 
Destroying Cockroaches and Crickets (C. S. <k Co.).— One of the 
best materials we have seen employed for destroying these pests is phosphor 
paste, of which a patent preparation can be obtained at some chemists’ and 
oilmen’s stores. This is generally employed with satisfactory results in some 
public gardens, where, owing to the large quantities of plants imported, such 
vermin are always troublesome. A small portion of the paste is spread thinly 
upon pieces of paper, which are placed near the haunts of the insects, and they 
appear rather partial to the substance, though it quickly destroys them. A 
mixture of honey and arsenic has been similarly used with good results, but it 
must be carefully employed, owing to the extremely poisonous qualities of the 
arsenic. A very simple mode of destroying cockroaches is plunging inverted 
bellglasses up to the edge, half filling them with sweetened liquor such as 
treacle and water, and if a little stale beer be added it proves an additional 
attraction for them. We should be glad if any of our correspondents would 
describe other methods that have proved satisfactory. 
Rhodanthes in Pots (B. A. Z.). —In the London market gardens large 
numbers of Rhodanthes are grown for sale in the spring and summer months. 
The general practice is to sow the seed in boxes of light peaty soil from January 
onwards in successive batches. When the seedlings have attained a suitable 
size—that is, when they have two or three leaves, they are pricked out regularly 
into 48-size pots. A compost of turfy loam, peat, and sand is employed and 
placed very firmly in the pots, good drainage being supplied. From tw'elve to 
twenty plants are placed in each pot so as to obtain a compact specimen, and 
as growth advances they are tied in the same way as Mignonette—namely, with 
a few' light sticks at the side of the pot, a piece of matting being twisted round 
each to hold the plants compactly in the centre. They are grown either in heated 
frames or on the shelves of a w'arrn greenhouse, and great care is needed in the 
supply of water, never allowing the soil to become excessively wet or dry. 
