April 6, 1882. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
291 
eat it will be poisoned. Dissolving half an ounce of camphor in a gallon of 
water, and carbolic acid diluted with twelve times its weight of water and 
sprinkled in their haunts, is said to drive them away. Cotton wool wrapped round 
the stems of Peach trees and kept moist with tar prevents the ants ascending. 
They sometimes eat off the stamens of the flowers, and also attack the ripe fruit, 
but otherwise do not do injury unless they make their nests in flower pots. 
They mostly abound where insects are present, and you will find it very advan¬ 
tageous to permit no aphides or other insects to congregate on the plants or trees 
in your houses. The paraffin and softsoap mixture described on page 239 was 
found not to injure the roots of Cauliflowers. An “ ordinary pail ” there men¬ 
tioned will hold four gallons. 
Apple Scions (F. C.). —It was too late, even a fortnight ago, to obtain 
scions, and it would be hopeless now attempting to procure them, as the growth 
is much too advanced. They should be cut from the trees in the autumn, or 
at any rate before the sap commences moving in spring, and inserted in moist 
soil to keep them fresh and retard their growth, so that the stocks are in advance 
of them when the grafting is done. The address of the firm you name remains 
the same, and your letter has probably been overlooked ; your stamps would not 
be studiously retained by a firm so respectable. Write again. It is not the 
custom of nurserymen to sell scions; they prefer using them and selling the 
trees. You do not say how many you expected for a shilling. Of scarce varie¬ 
ties you would not obtain one for that amount; still the stamps, less postage, 
ought to have been returned. 
Imported Tree Ferns ( J. B.). —Prepare large pots of sizes proportionate 
to the stems of the Ferns you have received by thoroughly cleansing them, then 
one-third fill them with potsherds, the largest at the bottom, and cover these 
with some rough pie'ces of peat. Upon this place a few inches depth of a 
compost of two parts peat, one part light turfy loam, and a good proportion of 
sand, placing the Ferns in position upon this, and fill up firmly with the compost 
to within a couple of inches of the pot rim. Give sufficient water to render the 
soil thoroughly moist without being excessively wet, as the latter condition is 
almost certain to be fatal to the plants until they have commenced growth. 
Tie mats, canvas, or any similar material closely round the stems, and keep this 
well syringed, but carefully avoid wetting the crown of the plant. A warm, 
close, moist, and well-shaded position must be chosen, preferably in a tropical 
fernery, but a shaded comer in a stove or Orchid house will suit them. The 
principal points to be attended to are providing an equable temperature and 
moisture both around the stem and roots, and if there is any life in the plants 
they will be certain to start in a month or two. 
“ Preventing” Green Fly (J. P., Dublin). —It is undoubtedly wise to pre¬ 
vent the undue increase of this destructive insect. Its appearance you cannot 
prevent any more than you can avert the presence of the house fly. You may 
take it as a rule that anything that checks the free growth of plants or impairs 
their health—whether drought at the roots or in the atmosphere, or a too low 
or too high temperature—will render them especially liable to injury by aphides. 
Drought is their great foster-parent; water, their natural enemy. This is 
apparent by their largo number in a dry season, and their comparative absence 
during a period of wet. The most skilled plant-growers syringe and fumigate to 
prevent the appearance of insects, instead of waiting for them and then com¬ 
mencing a war of extermination and, as too often is the case, losing. Follow the 
excellent plan indicated, and you will find it not only satisfactory but econo¬ 
mical. If at any time an insect appears destroy it promptly ; never wait for more. 
This is where so many persons err, and so many plants are rendered unsightly, 
and not a few worthless. 
Planting Violets (Fragrans). —You may accept the indications of the 
plants which “look as if they want dividing and planting out” as a notification 
to you to proceed with the work. There is no better time fcr planting Violets 
than shortly after they have ceased flowering and are commencing to grow 
freely, providing the weather is mild and showery rather than bright and frosty. 
Violet beds are often spoiled by deferring the planting until summer, in which 
case there is not time for the roots to penetrate the soil to the necessary depth 
for obtaining the moisture that is requisite for maintaining the plants in good 
health. Dig the ground deeply, incorporating therewith a liberal amount of 
decayed vegetable matter if the ground is heavy, and fresh loam if it is light. 
We have found wood ashes of great value for Violets in both light and heavy 
soil. A hot sunny position, especially at the foot of a wall, is not favourable, as 
if the summer proves hot the foliage will almost inevitably be devoured by red 
spider. They flourish best in a breezy position ; and the shelter of a hedge, if 
shelter is needed, is far better than that of a wall. We plant the strong-growing 
varieties a foot apart in rows 18 inches asunder, water them freely until esta¬ 
blished, and mulch between the rows with short manure if the weather proves 
hot and dry. This lessens the necessity for continuous waterings, and the plants 
thrive well. 
Culture of Phaenocoma prolifera (G. D.). —In reply to your queries 
we extract the following from previous volumes of the Journal which appear to 
have escaped your attention. “ Phaenocoma prolifera requires similar culture to 
the Aphelexis, a compost of peat and silver sand with a small proportion of loam 
being needed, though the latter is frequently not used for Aphelexis. The pots 
must be thoroughly well drained and the compost placed in firmly. Great care 
is needed in supplying water, as the slightest excess of moisture or insufficient 
supply will result in the failure of the plant. An ordinary greenhouse suits it 
very well, but it prefers a slightly higher temperature where it can be provided. 
It has a great tendency to become bare at the base of the stem, which can only 
be prevented by tying the shoots down and stopping judiciously to preserve a 
compact habit. Cuttings of the half-ripened wood inserted in sandy peat and 
covered with a bellglass strike readily in a close frame similar to that employed 
for ordinary hard wooded plants.” 
Culture of Sparmannia africana (Idem). —For the decoration of con¬ 
servatories this is extremely useful, it being not only evergreen but perpetual- 
flowering. Fine bushes (and this we find much the best shape in which to grow 
it) can be had in 12-inch pots. The Sparmannia flowers but little in a young 
state unless extra sturdy growth is obtained. Cuttings taken from the ripened 
wood strike readily in the spring and can be grown into large plants. Avoid 
crowding ; pinch back and pot on till the end of June or early in July. A good 
head being obtained, discontinue pinching and potting, and turn out into an open 
and sunny spot. The temperature of a greenhouse is the most suitable during 
May and June. Old plants when no longer wanted in bloom are ripened by 
gradually withholding water, are cut back to within a few eyes of the old wood, 
and placed in a gentle heat till they break; they are then shaken out of the old 
soil and repotted, employing about the same sized pot or tub as they were 
formerly in. This is rather severe work, as the ball is one mass of roots, but 
when placed in heat they soon recover from the effects of their rough treatment. 
The soil used is composed principally of turfy loam with an addition of a little 
peat, leaf soil, sand, and broken crocks. When re-established they are gradually 
hardened off, and in June are placed in a sunny position outdoors. Early in 
September they are taken into their blooming quarters and commence flowering 
immediately. From that time an occasional dose of weak liquid manure is ad¬ 
ministered. They flower freely in a greenhouse temperature 38° to 48°, but 
48° to 58° is far the best, the blooms being finer and of a purer white; the foliage 
has also a better colour for the extra heat. 
Culture of Pentas carnea (Idem). —You will not find this plant diffi¬ 
cult to grow successfully, provided the temperature of a stove or intermediate 
house can be secured. The compost should consist of light turfy loam, pefit, and 
leaf soil in equal parts, with a plentiful admixture of sand. The pots must bo 
thoroughly drained, as water should be freely supplied when the plants are 
growing. It is an old favourite in many gardens, owing to the flowers being 
produced in the dull season, though with judicious management the plants 
may be had in flower during the greater portion of the year. 
Glass Structures (II. R. IF.).—It is not possible for anyone to give you 
the precise information you require on the data supplied in a letter of a general 
character. You have, no doubt, endeavoured to make the case plain, but such a 
phrase as a “ medium-sized household ” is not more definite than a medium-sized 
ship or plant that we might thus describe to you, and which you have never 
seen. We gather from your letter that you wish to grow Vines, Peaches, Necta¬ 
rines, Apricots, and Plums in the same house, then “ early Cucumbers and Melons 
to follow.” You cannot satisfactorily do this. You say you would like four 
Vines. This is definite. These you may grow fairly well in a house 15 feet long, 
but the quantity of fruit they will produce must depend greatly on the length 
of the rods; these, we think, should not be less than 15 feet long. This will 
indicate the length of the roof ; or to state the case as plainly as possible, we 
should have a lean-to vinery facing the south 15 feet long inside measure, 13 feet 
wide, and 10 or 12 feet high at the back, according to the height of the wall. 
You also desire two Peaches, two Nectarines, two Apricots, and “ perhaps a 
couple each of two sorts of Plums.” Apricots do not usually succeed well in a 
house with Peaches. For producing the greatest quantity of fruit of the best 
quality from four trees, two Nectarines and two Peaches,we should have a house 
of the same size as the vinery, and plant two trees in the front, training them to 
a trellis arched over to the back, about 3J feet from the wall and 4 feet from the 
ground next the path ; light would then be admitted to the back wall, which 
you could cover with the other two trees. You would now have a range 30 feet 
long. Now comes the provision for Melons and Cucumbers, also “ conveniences 
for keeping a small conservatory going.” As you afford us no idea whatever of 
the size of this conservatory, we shall almost certainly suggest either too much 
or too little glass, and you must accept our reply as affording a general idea of a 
proposed arrangement. At the end of the vinery we should have a smaller 
house, say 9 feet high and wide, and 20 feet long, in two divisions. This would 
enable you to grow Cucumbers and Melons, and would be valuable for propa¬ 
gating and raising such stove plants as Gardenias, Poinsettias, and many others, 
also for forcing plants for the conservatory. A similar structure at the end of 
the Peach house, kept at a greenhouse temperature, would be of service for pre¬ 
paring decorative plants for the conservatory, a.nd would be otherwise service¬ 
able and interesting. As you have a wall we recommend lean-to structures , as 
less costly to build than span-roofs. There are plenty of boilers of both the 
saddle and tubular pattern that do not need an “ engineer as well as gardener,” 
and as you say you have an “ excellent ” gardener, he may be safely trusted to 
choose a boiler. We pass the Plums, as you do not appear to have decided 
whether you will grow them or not under glass. 
The Asparagus Beetle (IF. J/.).—Your plants are attacked with this 
destructive insect (Crioceris Asparagi), of which we submit a figure. We 
should dust with lime, and at the same time sprinkle 
salt on the surface of the beds, making it quite white. 
We should further, when the plants are in full growth 
in the summer, like you to try the experiment of syring¬ 
ing with paraffin in different degrees of solution, and to 
inform us of the result. We think you will thus be able 
to kill the grubs without injuring the Asparagus. 
Clubbing of Cabbages (E. T. II .).—It is just 
possible that the paraffin mixture may prove a cure 
for clubbing, but we have not tried it. Possibly more 
than one application will be necessary, and if so, re¬ 
peat the application after heavy rain. If you refer to 
the number for Feb. 23rd, 1882, you will find that a 
correspondent found a remedy by the use of lime rub¬ 
bish. It is questionable if it can exist where there is 
a sufficiency of lime in the soil, and your soil being 
sandy, the probability is that that is the cause in 
your case. Mr. J. J. H. Gregory, a most extensive 
American grower, finds that planting Cabbages too 
often on the same soils induces clubbing, while it 
never appears when a proper rotation is observed ; but 
his soil is deficient in lime. Mr. Peter Henderson, 
another American grower, grows them repeatedly on 
the same soil and is never troubled with it; but large 
quantities of shells abound in his soil. Rank manures, 
unprepared by fermenting, often induce an attack. 
In cottage gardens where the soapsuds are continually 
applied to the Cabbage plot clubbing is seldom seen. 
A plentiful application of wood ashes is also a pre¬ 
ventive. Possibly the best thing you can do is to 
apply lime liberally and fork it m. On the application of lime see the answer 
to “F. J.” Should the paraffin mixture prove a preventive kindly let us know. 
Names of Plants (C. E. if.). —Owing to the specimens sent having re¬ 
mained in the post during Sunday, they were much shrivelled. Further, the 
box containing them was so fragile that it was completely smashed. The 
specimens themselves, too, were mostly insufficient, being unaccompanied by 
flowers, without which it is useless to expect us to name fragments of leaves. 
However, we recognise the following—2, Corydalis lutea, and 4, Muscari botry- 
oides. (Tobbv). —Escallonia macrantha. (J. M.). —1, Acalypha Macafeeana ; 2, 
Ophiopogon intermedium variegatum. (J. <?.).—-1, Akebia quinata ; 2, Begonia 
glaucescens. 
Fig. 57. 
Drone-breeding Queen (J. G., Devon ).—Having seen a fine lot of brood 
some weeks since in your hive, you now find only scattered cells sealed, and 
these capped very high; queen cells appear to have been built and a queen is 
present. You desire information as to what is wrong. Two solutions are 
possible. Either your queen is worn out and has become a drone-breeder or, as 
we think more likely, the queen was killed or lost at or some time before the 
examination when the abundant brood was seen. The bees finding themselves 
motherless attempted to requeen the hive by building queen cells, but as no 
