29G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 13,1882. 
should make room for a good number of these useful plants. 
In. other beds Hollyhocks, Phloxes early and late, Tritonias, 
Spiraeas, Veronicas, Delphiniums, Carnations, Pinks, Iris, 
Anemones, Paeonias, Pentstemons, and a host of others could 
be planted, including the Sunflower, which need not be despised 
in such positions. The arrangements for hardy flowers I would 
not entirely confine to the shrubbery. Beds could be cut out 
in the turf here and there in suitable places, so that the same- 
ness existing in many gardens would be broken by the intro¬ 
duction of something choice and interesting in every nook. 
There can be no doubt that if hardy plants were employed 
more liberally in the way described they would not only be 
more appreciated, but add greater interest to the grounds, 
proving as useful and more beautiful than when crowded in 
a border as we too often see them. —W. Bakdney. 
VINES AT LONGLEAT. 
( Continued from page 254.) 
TEMPERATURES. 
I am aware that Hamburghs and some other Grapes 
of the same class may be grown in temperatures con¬ 
siderably lower than those I have given, while Muscats 
would stand a poor chance because the season would 
be gone before they ripened, and the Hamburghs I am 
now alluding to would rarely be above the quality w r e 
should expect to see in the mixed house of a fairly good 
amateur. If the berries were up to the size I have 
mentioned for our standard (3£ inches in circumfer¬ 
ence) they would not be “ as black as Sloes;” or if, on 
the other hand, they were all that could be desired in 
colour, they would lack size. I have nothing to say 
against what I will call “ amateurs’ Grapes.” I often 
see them very creditable and have occasionally been 
obliged to acknowledge that they were better than mine, 
but at the same time I know they did not reach the 
standard that would satisfy me. 
A minimum of 66° at the first shutting-up, or what 
is called starting, is higher than most people allow, but 
I have never found that a temperature a few degrees 
lower than this had any effect on dormant Vines which 
had been w r ell ripened. Again, I see no reason at this 
period as far as fire heat is concerned to give a higher 
temperature by day than by night, for till the Vines 
commence to grow it must be all night to them. So 
soon, however, as growth commences an increase may 
take place by day, and especially on a bright day, when 
the thermometer may safely rise to 75°, and when once 
the growths have started regularly to 80° at noon, but 
G0° to 68° is sufficient without sun. I do not give a 
higher night temperature till flowering time, and then 
it is not because the flowers want the heat, but it is 
to lessen the dangers which present themselves in the 
morning during a rapid rise from sun heat. There is 
not so much danger when a house faces south, as there 
is ample opportunity then to give sufficient ventilation 
before the sun has much power on the glass ; but when 
one side of a span-roofed house (as in my case) or the 
whole of a lean-to faces the east, there is always a great 
risk at sunrise if the temperature has been very low. 
So soon as the flowers are set swelling commences 
rapidly, and we reach the important period when the 
size of the berry is in a great measure determined. We 
cannot possibly have large berries unless there is a 
good first swelling, and this takes place in the very 
short time elapsing between the flowering and the 
stoning. If the temperatures I have given have not 
been exceeded the roots will now be in full activity and 
tho foliage will be vigorous, when a little more heat 
may be safely applied. If the extra heat can be secured 
by natural means so much the better; but if not, then 
we must have more fire as well as less ventilation. 
If the. house faces south the increase need only take 
place during the day, but in my case I find it advisable 
to increase somewhat at night also. About 68° to G5° 
is the minimum now ; a rise to about 70 ° is aimed at 
soon after daylight, and if the weather is mild then 
2° or 8° higher is allowed. With sun at midday a 
temperature from 80° to 85° is the rule, and we do not 
mind at this time if it rises another 6° or 10 Q after 
closing in the afternoon. When once the temperature 
has risen to the maximum by sun heat, it is admissible, 
if owing to the position of the house the sun goes off 
it early, to assist by fire heat to a considerable extent 
during daylight. 
Supposing we have a house facing south the sun has 
the greatest effect on it at or before midday, and we are 
often enabled to close it entirely at one or two o’clock. 
There is no harm then to move the fire a little and 
endeavour by artificial means to keep some of the 
advantages as long as possible which have been gained 
by natural agencies. 
But we must take care that the high temperature is 
not maintained after dark. The fire is allowed to 
burn up a little so as to warm the pipes, and then if 
necessary it must be checked again, but the exact 
details of management can only be made out on the 
spot after considerable practice and attention. I do 
not consider that a fair amount of fire heat in itself at 
suitable times does any harm ; what I do object to is its 
being applied too much during nights and dull days, 
and thereby causing elongation, when, owing to the 
absence of light, which is quite as great a necessity as 
heat (and which so far as I know we have not yet 
succeeded in manufacturing satisfactorily), perfect con¬ 
solidation is impossible. Supposing our minimum 
temperature to be 63° and our maximum by sun heat 
85°, it will do no harm, but rather the reverse, while 
the fruit is swelling to so far assist the sun heat in the 
afternoon if the weather continues bright, that the 
temperature may be prevented falling lower than 75° 
or 80° till within half an hour of sunset, providing 
always the pipes have not to be made very hot, and 
that the minimum or something near it can be reached 
by midnight. 
When stoning commences, which will be in about 
a month after flowering, and may be seen by the 
berries ceasing to swell, the rise after closing had better 
not be allowed, and a maximum of 80° is sufficient. 
In about another three weeks or a month there will be 
signs of renewed swelling, and in the case of the Ham¬ 
burghs there will also very soon be signs of colouring, 
when the heat must be gradually lowered, and unless 
the fruit is wanted early fire heat will only be neces¬ 
sary to keep up a minimum of 55° or 60° wdiile allow¬ 
ing continual ventilation. 
In the case of the Muscats and thick-skinned Grapes 
the heat must be continued till they are fully ripe, 6ay 
to the end of September or middle of October ; and if 
during July and August (supposing the stoning to be 
completed early in the first-named month) there should 
be a natural rise of temperature 10 Q higher than the 
maximum I have named, it will do no harm so long as 
it occurs after abundant ventilation has been given. 
After the fruit is thoroughly ripe the temperature may 
bo gradually lowered till we come as nearly as possible 
