April 13, 1882.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
299 
months the ripeniDg process continues. At the end of this time 
the pod must be watched every day, for as soon as it bursts the 
Beeds are ripe, and they must be sown. 
Note every bloom that is fertilised, the date, the pollen parent, 
and any other remark it may be desirable to remember. The seed 
pod as it ripens should have a small label attached to it, on which 
a number is written that corresponds to the notes written in a 
book. The seed must be sown when ripe. I have prepared pots 
specially for this purpose and sown the seed upon the new soil, 
but this has invariably ended in disappointment. The best way 
is to shake the seed on the soil of a plant that is not likely to be 
disturbed for twelve months, and when sown not to interfere with 
it for that length of time. In many cases at the end of six, eight, 
or even twelve months the tiny seedlings will make their appear¬ 
ance ; then comes a time of anxious expectancy. The seedlings 
must not be disturbed for at least another year, and if at the end 
of that period they are still too small to handle, let them make 
more growth in that position. If the soil is moderately good they 
will thrive better than if they were disturbed too soon. When, 
however, they can be pricked out fill a pan or pot carefully with 
peat, moss, and sand ; after watering it prick the seedlings out 
as carefully as possible, so that the tiny roots may be preserved. 
Place it in a moderately shady position, keeping a sharp eye for 
slugs, woodlice, or cockroaches. If the plants establish them¬ 
selves in the new soil the chances are that most of them will 
progress favourably, and they will continue growing, for in this 
young state it would not be wise, nor is it necessary, to give a 
resting or dry season with them. As they increase in size they 
must again be potted or placed singly in pans or baskets, and 
every attention should be paid them, and by all means they should 
be encouraged to make stout, sturdy, and plump growths. Such 
short pseudo-bulb3 will be found to be much more satisfactory 
than thin attenuated ones, and will be much more likely to bloom 
quickly. In time—it may be four or six years from the first opera¬ 
tion—pseudo-bulbs sufficiently strong to produce flowers will be 
formed ; and the pleasure of observing buds form, and these deve- 
lope into flower, and the blooms prove to be fine in colour, distinct 
in form, and possessing other features of an attractive character, 
will amply repay for all the waiting. 
I have succeeded in raising a large number of Cypripediums. 
Many of these have not flowered ; in fact some, though they are 
over four years old, are still in thumb pots. Others have bloomed, 
and amongst them C. Swanianum is distinct and good ; the 
foliage beautifully variegated, the flowers larger and finer than 
C. Dayanum. There are two very distinct varieties of C. Swani¬ 
anum—a light-foliage and a dark mottled-leaf form ; both are 
very good. Mr. Dominy’s and Mr. Seden’s success in this 
direction are now well known. They have obtained forms 
of great merit, and they certainly deserve much credit for their 
labour. 
Since Masdevallias, Zygopetalums, Caltleyas, Lmlias, Cypri¬ 
pediums, Dendrobiums, Calanthes, Phaius, kc., have been raised 
there is a probability that others will as leadily yield to the 
operator’s skill. There is, therefore, every inducement to those 
who have the desire and opportunity to try during the present 
and coming season to fertilise good flowers, and with the object 
of originating new and distinct forms. It may in some cases 
happen that the result is not a cross or hybrid, the seed simply 
producing young plants of the parent that bore the seed. This, 
however, need not act as a deterrent, for if the operation is care¬ 
fully performed the probability is that something good may result. 
—W. SWAN, Fallowjield. 
SCARLET RUNNERS. 
This may, perhaps, be said to be one of the subjects most of us 
“know all about.” If the majority of my readers are so well ex¬ 
perienced so much the better, as they “ know all about ” what they 
will readily admit to be a most useful and deservedly popular 
esculent. According to my experience, however, there are many 
who either require advice or who do not treat Runner Beans so 
intelligently as their merits entitle them to. Excessive crowding 
is the most general and conspicuous mistake made in their culture. 
They are really very accommodating, growing and cropping in 
the neighbourhood of towns in positions where other vegetables 
fail. In addition they are made to do duty as ornamental climbers 
for the small front gardens, or they may and do prove equally 
as effective grown without stakes ; but in every position over¬ 
crowding must be avoided if an abundant and continuous display 
of bloom, followed by plenty of tender pods, are wished for. If 
anyone doubts the advantage of sowing the seeds at good intervals 
let them completely isolate a single plant and mark the result. 
Three or four isolated plants either trained over an archway or 
staked uprightly are really capable of producing sufficient Beans 
for a small family. 
Where a greater quantity are required, instead of sowing in the 
orthodox double lines 1 foot or less apart, and the seeds 6 or 
t) inches asunder in the rows, and making the stakes of each line 
meet near their tops, I advise sowing or planting, as the case may 
be, in single lines, and the seed or plants 1 foot asunder, the stakes 
to be connected or braced together by running other straight stakes 
across them near their points. Trained in this manner no wind 
will disturb them ; the Beans will grow more robustly, one plant 
not unduly robbing its neighbour at the roots or crowding it at the 
top, and results m better and more lasting crops. 
The enormous quantities of Beans sent to the London markets 
are grown in the open fields and without stakes. They are in 
most instances disposed in rows 3 feet apart, and the plants about 
15 inches asunder. All running growths are kept closely pinched 
back, and the neglect of this precaution is the cause of failure in 
many private gardens where the plan of growing without stakes 
has been tried. Kept properly stopped, and splendid spikes of 
bloom, followed by great bunches of pods, will of a certainty 
follow ; neglect stopping, and a thicket of growth and but few 
Beans will result. An old pair of scissors are suitable for the rapid 
snipping off the running growths. Close stopping does not inju¬ 
riously affect the cropping ; on the contrary, it seems to insure 
abundance of much stronger spikes of bloom than is obtained where 
stopping is not resorted to. 
On light sandy or gravelly soils trenches prepared as for Celery 
to admit of abundance of moisture being easily given to the roots 
when required may be formed for them ; but these trenches, or even 
double digging, are unnecessary where medium and heavy soils pre¬ 
vail. Plenty of half-decayed manure (nothing being more suitable 
than that obtained from the stable or cowyards) should be dug in, 
and a mulching of fresh manure, or failing this the grass from the 
mowing machine, be given before hot and dry weather is antici¬ 
pated. If the manure employed be that which has previously done 
duty as a hotbed for Cucumbers or Melons it is scarcely good 
enough for Beans, and in order to add some of manurial agents it 
has undoubtedly lost it is advisable to lightly dress the surface of 
the soil prior to rainfall or waterings with some kind of artificial 
manure or soot. According to my experience artificial manures 
alone are not to be depended upon, but used in connection with the 
worn-out manure of necessity so much employed by gardeners they 
are very effective. 
The time of sowing must depend upon the locality. In the 
southern counties the first sowing may be made at the end of April, 
or early in May is quite early enough, as the young Beans are most 
delicate and easily injured by late frosts. In most districts the 
second week in June is a favourable time for sowing, and unless 
the soil be light and poor one sowing will be sufficient. Where the 
first sowing is apt to fail early it is advisable to sow again about 
the middle of June, and this will prolong the supply till cut down 
by frosts. Runner Beans, as well as all other Beans, and also Peas, 
can be transplanted readily ; and in case of failures either from 
inferior seed, frosts, slugs, chicken, or other causes, it is a good 
practice to sow seed as soon as failure is perceived in boxes of light 
soil and place under glass. The Beans, if a little warmth can be 
given, quickly germinate, and when hardened off and before becom¬ 
ing much rootbound they may be shook out and separated, and 
planted where required. Dwarf stopped plants are generally the 
first to mature pods, and again are most easily protected from the 
earliest autumn or winter frosts. The variety most generally grown 
is the Carter’s Champion Scarlet, but many market growers find 
the old Scarlet Runners sell more readily and at a better price ; 
they are much smaller, but more productive. Suttons’ Giant White 
grows to a great size, is very productive, and of excellent quality ; 
the pods of this variety are very suitable for exhibition. 
Where a considerable number of Beans are grown, as in the case 
of gardens connected with large schools, asylums, houses of busi¬ 
ness, and even large private establishments, the rows of staked 
Beans may be disposed in rows 6 feet apart, and between these 
may well be grown two rows either of early Potatoes, Cabbages, 
or Cauliflowers, disposing these so as to admit of the Beans being 
got in without disturbing the other crops, these being cleared off 
before the Beans are far advanced. A single row of either the 
above may be grown between the Beans grown without stakes. 
—W. Iggulden. 
PRIMULA SINENSIS. 
The great improvement effected in these within the past few 
years, and the freedom with which they produce their lovely 
flowers at a season when there is very little to make conser¬ 
vatories or greenhouses attractive, render them general favourites, 
and as it is important to have them early in bloom no time should 
