330 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
f April 20, 1882. 
these are not seen more frequently associated with Palms, Tree 
Ferns, Camellias, and other tine-foliage plants in large conser¬ 
vatories and winter gardens. The Euonymus naturally grows 
into a shapely bush or pyramid, and standards with fine heads 
can be developed in a few years. We not unfrequently find in 
large glass structures the permanent occupants more or less of a 
green type of foliage varying only in form and shade. In such 
houses a few plants of Euonymus would give a more cheerful and 
pleasing appearance to the arrangement. 
Some of the varieties are hardy, at least near the seacoast, parti¬ 
cularly in Wales and in sheltered positions in the southern counties, 
but in northerly districts they fail if the winters are severe. The 
plants possess one great advantage which alone is sufficient to 
recommend them—they endure smoke with impunity, and thrive 
well for the greater portion of the year in town gardens. Some 
of the green-leaved varieties I have seen flourish vigorously in 
smoky localities and survive all ordinary winters, but the winter 
of 1S80-81 injured the plants severely. For windows in towns I 
know of no class of plants to equal them. In rooms they grow 
well and retain their beautiful variegation. I have long wondered 
why they have not been grown largely for the embellishment of 
ballrooms, corridors, and similar places, instead of employing so 
many delicate tender Crotons that require much heat, and are more 
susceptible of injury from gas and draughts than the Euonymus. 
These plants can also be effectively employed in various ways 
in the pleasure grounds. In the subtropical garden they could be 
used to great advantage, and would not require the care to raise 
and keep them through the winter as is the case with many varie¬ 
gated plants now in use. The golden forms associated with any 
dark-leaved plants, such as Iresine Lindeni, I. Herbstii, or Ama- 
ranthus melancholicus ruber, would be charming. In suitable 
nooks and corners I do not know what could be more attractive 
than small beds filled with these plants and edged with Lobelias, 
Alternantheras, or any plants that would contrast well and har¬ 
monise with the surroundings. Again, standards with small heads 
would look well rising from amongst dwarf flowering or foliage 
plants. While pyramidal specimens could be placed in the centre 
of large beds, and thus relieve the flatness too often seen, indi¬ 
vidual specimens would look well plunged or planted out for the 
summer on lawns or in the shrubbery borders. Standards in beds 
of dwarf evergreens appear beautiful, and the same remark applies 
when two or three rows are used for the front of long borders of 
■shrubs or round small clumps. Two or three seasons ago I saw 
a very fine lot of Euonymus at the Upton Nurseries, Chester, 
employed on a long border with a number of small Conifers, and 
I do not remember seeing anything before or since more effective. 
When employed for these purposes and plunged out in their pots 
the latter should be entirely covered and the beds mulched, or the 
labour of supplying water would be considerable. It is preferable 
to bed them out, when they would require no more water than 
Pelargoniums, and could be lifted safely in autumn, repotted, and 
stored for protection in cold frames. 
The following are useful variegated forms—E. argenteo-varie- 
gatus, E. aureo-variegatus, E. Due d’Anjou, E. elegantissimus 
variegatus, E. japonicus latifolius albo-variegatus, E. marginatus 
aureus, and E. ovatus aureo-variegatus. 
Notes on propagation may with advantage be postponed until 
the time approaches for inserting the cuttings.—W. Bardney. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The weather, for some time having been cold owing to the 
prevalence of east winds, has retarded the blossom of fruit trees 
considerably, but does not appear to have had an injurious effect, for 
though the air was cold it was dry, and now the weather has become 
moist the fruits that have set are swelling rapidly, especially 
Apricots, and where the protection is of a fixed character a portion 
should now be removed. Where the protection consists of canvas 
screens, Ac., these should be removed early in the morning and let 
down somewhat late at night in accordance with the state of the 
weather. Peaches and Nectarines, though less forward than the 
Apricots, will need similar attention. Cherries, Pears, and Plums on 
walls are now generally in bloom, and should have a slight protection 
of some kind, either applied or held in readiness. 
Aphides will probably soon attack the growths of the Peach, Plum, 
and Cherry, to check which timely recourse must be had to diluted 
tobacco water, or syringing on a calm and mild evening with some 
approved insecticide. Upon the first appearance of mildew upon 
the Peach or Nectarine trees dust well with flowers of sulphur. 
The leaf-rolling caterpillar may be expected to make its unw r elcoine 
appearance on the foliage of the Apricot trees, and should be care¬ 
fully picked off or crushed by the finger and thumb. Watch also 
for the Gooseberry caterpillar, and whenever discovered dust the 
bushes with hellebore powder. Hoe freely among plantations of 
Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries, to loosen the 
surface of the soil, as well as to keep down weeds. Mulch plantations 
of Straw’berries with half-decayed stable-yard manure. 
MUSHROOM BEDS. 
Materials should now be collected for making Mushroom beds in 
open and airy situations to insure a supply of Mushrooms after 
those grown indoors become infested by maggots, as they invariably 
do during the early part of summer. Suitable positions for making 
beds are open sheds with a north aspect, but they may be made out¬ 
doors, choosing a dry site, and having means to protect them from 
heavy rains. At this season it is necessary to have less straw in the 
admixture than is desirable during the winter months, as it would 
cause the materials to become light and dry too quickly. Crude horse 
droppings, however, are not necessarily essential, as the dung and 
short litter from the dung yard—the long litter being shaken out— 
form admirable material; and if too dry a slight sprinkling with 
liquid from the tank and occasional turning and throwing into a heap 
will soon bring the material into a proper condition for making into 
beds. Older beds in bearing will need sprinkling daily with tepid 
water, assisting those showing signs of exhaustion by a good water¬ 
ing with tepid liquid manure. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Where Grapes are ripe and the foliage is good the lateral 
growth should be pinched quite close, and the temperature kept as 
equable as possible, 00° being sufficient by artificial means, but the 
decline to this must be gradual. If there be any red spider it will be 
advisable to allow a little more freedom to the laterals, and the hot 
water pipes should be heated to over 160°, and brushed w r ith flowers of 
sulphur mixed with skim milk. The border must not be allowed to 
become dry, but have water or liquid manure as necessary to keep the 
soil moist and preserve the foliage in good condition, moderate atmo¬ 
spheric moisture not being injurious to the ripe fruit now. Inside 
borders where Vines are swelling their fruit or approaching ripening 
should be examined, and if the soil is at all dry give a thorough soaking 
with tepid liquid manure, and top-dress with short manure to prevent 
evaporation. Although a drier atmosphere is essential when the 
Grapes are ripening, when they are swelling it is important that a 
genial condition of the atmosphere be maintained for some time after 
they commence colouring, giving air freely in suitable weather. Vines 
generally are making rapid progress, and for some time now it will be 
difficult to keep pace with thinning, pinching, tying, and regulating 
the shoots, which are of such importance. Thinning must be attended 
to promptly both as regards the berries and bunches. Remove the 
points of all lateral growths regularly. Late Vines are now starting 
freely, and should be encouraged to make active growth, syringing 
freely twice a day, dispensing with fire heat as much as possible, and 
closing the house early on fine afternoons. Afford Muscats in flower 
a day temperature of 80° to 85°, with a free circulation of dry air, keep¬ 
ing the points of the bunches near to the light, and liberate the pollen 
by gently shaking the Vines when the maximum temperature has 
been reached. 
Cucumbers .—In order to secure healthy and fruitful plants do not 
omit trimming them regularly about twice a week. The supply of 
moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere must be liberal, or 
red spider and other insect pests will quickly appear. Brushing 
the pipes thinly with flowers of sulphur is the best remedy for red 
spider. The foliage must not be allowed to flag severely, but shade 
as little as possible at present, employing only a thin material for an 
hour or two at mid-day. In pits and frames let the supply of mois¬ 
ture be increased, damping the foliage gently through a fine rose early 
