JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 373 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
To Correspondents. —Letters arriving on Wednesday morning cannot 
be answered satisfactorily until the following week. 
Books (E. D.). —Your request for a “list” of books is very indefinite, and 
further without knowing your object we are scarcely able to say which are the 
“ best ” for your purpose. All the works published at this office are good, a list 
of which, with prices, can be obtained from the publisher. You might also 
write to Mr. B. S. Williams, Victoria Nurseries, Holloway, for a list of his works, 
and Messrs. Blackwood, of. Paternoster Row, London, for their catalogue. 
The “ Gardener’s Assistant” published by Blackie & Sons, Paternoster Buildings, 
is a good and comprehensive work, the price of which they will send you on 
application. ( S.I1.). —The paper to which you refer is not yet printed. 
Postal Flower Boxes (C. S. d- Co .).—We know of no boxes more suitable 
for this purpose than those made by Mr. Lovel of Weaverthorpe, York. They 
are made in different sizes, and samples with prices can be obtained on appli¬ 
cation to the vendor. 
Pansies (F. J. P., Tasmania ).—In accordance with your request we have 
forwarded your letter to a gentleman who is certainly competent, and we trust 
will be willing, to aid you in obtaining what you desire. 
Prize Medal (Success). —Have you written to the firm mentioned in your 
letter ? That appears to us to be the first step to take in the matter. We do 
not know what the rule is under which the medals are granted, but we think 
that the inscription should be engraved on the medals before presentation. It 
is not improbable that this course will be followed in future. 
Guano for Plants (C. I ).).—You ask if guano is good for Ferns, Liliums, 
and “ other greenhouse plants.” It is good for most softwooded plants that 
need more support than the soil affords, but must be used carefully. Half an 
ounce to a gallon of water must be the maximum strength, and twice a week will 
be often enough to apply it. You had better, however, only apply it at half that 
strength for the Liliums and root-bound Ferns. Guano water applied to plants 
that are not root-bound often does more harm than good, and it must never be 
given when the soil is quite dry. Not knowing what the “ other” plants are to 
which you allude we are of course unable to advise you respecting them, but you 
will act safely by using guano cautiously. 
Laced Polyanthus (H.). —We think very highly of the variety of which 
you have submitted a truss, not because one of the flowers has an abnormal 
number of petals, as this is not unusual, but because it is an excellently formed 
and smooth flower of a pleasing colour and with, what is far from common, a 
clearly defined and distinctly coloured Picotee-like edge. You may appro¬ 
priately call it a Picotee Polyanthus. We have a great number of varieties, but 
not one like it, neither was there one at all similar at the late Auricula and 
Polyanthus Show at South Kensington. Of course you will pi-eserve and 
increase it. We should like to see a perfectly fresh truss; the flowers sent were 
considerably faded. 
Aubrietias ( Amateur). — When large numbers are required for spring 
bedding the simplest method is to raise than from seed. We have raised 
thousands in this manner; and although all the varieties were not precisely alike 
in the size of the flowers and habit of the plants, the diversity was not so great 
as to be any serious obstacle to the plants being employed in lines or masses, 
while when grown in isolated places in borders and on rockeries the variations 
are acceptable rather than otherwise. The plants cannot be raised too early 
now. We should sow the seed in boxes, to be placed in heat and covered with 
squares of glass, keeping the soil constantly moist. When the seedlings are 
large enough transplant them 6 inches apart in rows 1 foot asunder in good soil 
and a sheltered position, and with care in watering as needed, and stirring the 
soil frequently, good plants will be had in October for planting where they are 
required to flower. 
Grubs on Apricot Trees (A. .1/., Noils ).—The grubs to which you allude 
are highly destructive, and if you do not destroy them they will seriously 
injure the trees. We know of no satisfactory means of clearing the trees of 
their enemy than hand-picking. Every curled leaf should be examined, some 
of them being removed, and the others pressed firmly between the thumb and 
finger so as to crush the maggot. We have not found insecticides effectual, for 
the simple reason that the maggots are so closely enveloped by the leaves that 
it is most difficult to reach them with a solution of any kind, and dusting them 
with tobacco powder is impossible. If any of our readers can suggest a remedy 
we will readily publish it. 
Wallflowers (S. Marston). —By far the best mode of raising a number of 
single Wallflowers is to sow the seed now in an open position, and eventually 
plant the seedlings a foot apart in firm and not too rich soil. Wallflower seed 
is often sown too late, and the plants have not time to become strong. We 
sowed a fortnight ago, and the seedlings are now appearing. The semi-double 
German varieties are also raised from seed, but the true doubles must be in¬ 
creased from cuttings. They strike readily when the shoots are tender in 
moderate heat, the same as Verbenas are propagated, or rather firmer shoots 
may be inserted under handlights in June. Any favourite single varieties must 
also be perpetuated by cuttings, as there is no certainty that seed gathered 
from any particular plant will produce flowers like the parent. 
Soil for Figs (O. Godson ).—Almost any well-drained soil will suit Fig 
trees, provided that, with its porosity, it also possesses that kind of mechanical 
texture which, whilst it readily transmits moisture, will also retain sufficient to 
withstand a hot and dry period in the middle of summer. It is well, however, 
to lean towards an open porous character ; for if any defect arises through ex¬ 
treme seasons of drought in consequence of the soil being light, a remedy of a 
very simple character is always at hand in the shape of a good top-dressing and 
a bucket or two of water. In preference, therefore, to building preventive walls 
and other matters involving extra expense, we say, So compound the soil for 
them that they may never grow very gross, neither be liable to suffer from 
sudden droughts. When the native soil of a garden is too clayey, thorough 
drainage and the introduction of a liberal amount of sand, lime rubbish, and 
ashes, with a slight amount of vegetable matter, will in general suffice to make 
it fit for Fig trees. If the garden soil is too light and porous some adhesive 
loam may be added, or indeed, anything which may happen to be at hand which 
is retentive of moisture in its own nature, yet not a “ forcing ” or rich manure. 
One thing is requisite : the bed of soil should by no means be deep. We would 
never allow above half a yard in depth, unless in situations peculiarly favour¬ 
able to the culture of this fruit. 
Colchicuin Parkinsoni (Curio). —We do not know that we can give 
you a better description of this plant than that written by old Parkinson him¬ 
self, and published in his “ Paradisus Terrestris ” upwards of 250 years ngo, as 
follows :—“This most beautiful Saffron flower rises up with his flowers in the 
autumn, as the others before specified do, although not of so large a size, yet 
far more pleasant and delightful in the thick, deep blew or purple-coloured 
beautiful spots therein, which make it excel all others whatsoever : the leaves 
rise up in the spring, being smaller then the former, for the most part three in 
number, and of a paler or fresher green colour, lying close upon the ground, 
broad at the bottom, a little pointed at the end, and twining or folding them¬ 
selves in and out at the edges, as if they were indented. I have not seen any 
seed it hath born : the root is like unto the others of this kinde, but small and 
long, and not so great : it flowreth later for the most part then any of the 
other, even not until November, and is very hard to be preserved with us, in 
that for the most part the root waxeth lesso and lesse every year, our cold 
country being so contrary unto his natural, that it will scarce shew his flower ; 
yet when it flowreth any thing earlie, that it may have any comfort of a warm 
sun, it is the glory of all these kindes.” 
Cephalotus follicularis (/•’. S. N.). —This, we presume, is the plant you 
mean, and is popularly known as the New Holland Pitcher-plant. The follow¬ 
ing extract from our “ Greenhouse Manual ” will answer your inquiry “ It 
bears numbers of little pitchers and is very interesting, and to do well should have 
a warm part of the greenhouse. Grow it in a mixture of chopped sphagnum 
and sandy fibrous peat, providing extra good drainage, keeping the plant rather 
high, and just covering the roots. It is well to insert the pot in one of larger 
size, filling the interval with sphagnum moss, and cover with a bellglass fitting 
the inside of the outer pot, taking off and wiping dry occasionally. In summer 
the pot may be stood in a saucer kept full of water, lessening the quantity 
towards autumn and keeping empty in winter, and with the bellglass tilted or 
slightly raised. The compost must be kept wet in summer, but less so, yet 
moist, in winter.” 
Peach Leaves Blistered (IF. Thomas). —The leaves are blistered, which 
is occasioned by cold affecting the sap vessels in the early stages of growth, and 
the parts so affected are afterwards attacked by a fungus. The only remedy is 
to remove the shoots and leaves so affected by degrees, and when the weather 
becomes warmer the growth will come free from deformity. The only means of 
preventing the disaster is to employ good protection for the blossom and shoots 
in the early stages of growth, it being rarely that trees grown under glass are so 
affected. The cause of the blossom falling without setting is no doubt due to 
the imperfect ripening of the wood, which may be remedied by lifting the tree 
in autumn and bringing the roots nearer the surface, well firming the soil, so as 
to induce the productiouof short-jointed shoots, greater solidification of growth, 
and maturity of wood. 
Watering Vines (T. E.). —If you have uo tank in the house that you can 
fill with water, nor can get a large tub (old paraffin casks are cheap enough), 
you appear to have no alternative than to continue your present method of 
using cold water. Mulching the border thickly will lessen the necessity for 
frequent waterings. We once saw a very fine house of Grapes where the borders 
were watered with cold water from a well, and there are some very good gar¬ 
deners, one occupying a very prominent position, who do not consider cold 
water injurious to plants in warm houses. We do not, however, think your plan 
of sprinkling the entire border every other morning the best you can adopt. 
We should water the border in sections, giving a copious supply to each, mulch¬ 
ing immediately. This would be better for the Vines, and less time would be 
occupied than by your present plan. A heavy watering once a fortnight or 
three weeks according to the weather would probably suffice for supporting the 
Vines. 
Cropping Vine Border (L. Forbes).—Yon can neither turf over a 
portion of the border nor crop it with flowers without, to some extent, depriving 
the soil of its Vine-growing constituents; but it does not necessarily follow that 
in your case the Vines would be injured in their growth and crops impaired by 
the practice suggested. Some Vine borders are too rich, and in that case a crop 
of flowers would do them no harm ; others are much wider than is necessary, 
and a wide margin of them might safely be occupied with other crops. If you 
had stated the length of the rafters and the nature of the soil we could have 
answered your question more satisfactorily. In a matter of this kind very much 
depends on the cultivator and the system of management pursued. We have 
seen most satisfactory crops of Grapes where the borders have been partially 
occupied with flowers, and we frequently observe inferior crops where a plant is 
not permitted on the border. When we see a vinery with rafters from 12 to 
15 feet long and an elaborate border made 18 feet wide, we always think there 
has been a waste of labour and material, as we think you could grow equally 
good Grapes in such a house with a border one-third less in width. We should, 
however, prefer having the roots confined to a certain space, so that we could 
afford the Vines the necessary support, and know that they have it. This we 
could not know if they were allowed to extend through a border of twice the 
width if half of it was occupied with other crops. 
Glass Copings (Idem).— A categorical reply cannot be given to your 
question. If the wall is low, the soil light and dry, and the summer hot we 
should remove the copings; if the conditions were the opposite of these we 
should retain them. If you desire more precise information, and will supply us 
with the data necessary for understanding your case, both as regards your Vines 
and Peaches, we will readily supply it. 
Heating Unsatisfactory ( Willesden ).—You say you can “boil the water 
in the pipes in ten minutes.” That being so, and if the water circulates freely— 
that is to say, the whole extent of pipes is heated quickly—you have then con¬ 
clusive evidence that more piping is necessary. You ask if placing pipes in the 
potting shed would “ improve the circulation.” We cannot see that pipes so 
placed would do so. But you do not say a word about defective circulation of 
the water in the pipes now existing ; you only say you do not obtain sufficient 
heat. The piping necessary for a house depends on its exposure, and if your 
house is in .a bleak position additional pipes appear needed, although in a shel¬ 
tered place we should have deemed the present piping (four rows) sufficient. 
Your plan does not show by any means clear enough for us to judge whether the 
pipes are properly arranged or not. You can judge for yourself if the circulation 
is good, and if it is you need additional pipes. You say you have only two pipes, 
but you show four in the plan. If you only have two rows they are insufficient. 
Vine Leaves Unhealthy (E. C.).—We scarcely think the condition of 
the leaves is wholly due to the sulphur, though the fumes may have contributed 
to the injury. A more probable cause is keeping the house close too long in the 
