378 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
beds in which they are flowered should be occupied with them 
the whole year, as they can be safely removed after they have 
flowered. Auriculas are very accommodating, and much bene¬ 
fited by being replanted and divided if necessary after flower¬ 
ing. By the operation of replanting they form roots much 
nearer the foliage, and in consequence are better able to endure 
severe weather during winter than if they had several inches 
of bare stem. In spring, as they show signs of growth, a good 
top-dressing of rich loam and leaf soil is very beneficial, as 
with growth they quickly form numbers of roots, which at 
once take to the new compost, and assist the plants to produce 
flower trusses. 
Whether the plants are removed from the bed in which they 
have flowered will depend upon circumstances and what in¬ 
dividual cultivators wish to place in the bed afterwards. If 
only a spring display is required they can be replanted in the 
same bed. If bulbous and hardy plants are favourites, such 
as Gladiolus could be planted at the proper season without 
injuring the Auriculas seriously. The bed could be filled with 
Liliums, which I think should after planting be “ left alone ” 
and not disturbed. They do not require to be planted thickly, 
and the Auriculas after flowering would form an excellent 
groundwork for the Liliums. With care the Auriculas would 
not prove injurious to these bulbous plants intended to bloom 
later in the season. The only care necessary would be to see 
that the early-flowering plants did not retard the growth of 
the bulbs planted amongst them when their heads first ap¬ 
peared above the ground. 
Alpine Auriculas are not only valuable for flowering in the 
pleasure grounds, but for the decoration of conservatories as 
well as the amateur’s greenhouse early in the season. Their 
treatment for this purpose is simple : they can either be grown 
in pots for the greater portion of the year and plunged outside, or 
plants of good varieties possessing several crowns can be lifted 
and potted in September. If wintered in a greenhouse they will 
flower long before those outside, and when once grown their 
value for this purpose will soon be recognised, and they will 
afterwards be regarded as indispensable for early flowering in¬ 
doors. Those who have not been accustomed to train many 
hardy plants to bloom indoors cannot form any idea of their 
beauty when associated with many greenhouse plants. None 
need fail in their culture either indoors or out, and those anxious 
to obtain a stock should sow seed at once in pans or boxes in¬ 
doors or in a frame, and when large enough the seedlings 
should be pricked out singly in other pans or boxes. These 
plants are worth frame room for a time when it is necessary to 
advance them rapidly to obtain strong specimens in as little 
time as possible. They can readily be raised by those having 
neither glass house or frame if sown in a box or pan and then 
pricked outside. —Scientia. 
VINES AT LONGLEAT. 
( Continued from page 339.) 
SCORCHING AND CHILLING. 
When Vines are in flower it is advisable to have the 
ventilators slightly open at all times for the purpose of 
keeping a buoyant atmosphere, which is a great help to 
fertilisation. But immediately after fertilisation has 
taken place is perhaps the most critical time of all. It 
is then that foliage is what is called scorched, and rust 
is produced on the berries. I will try to explain how 
it happens. Most cultivators have occasionally seen a 
beautiful-looking dew on their Grapes, or perhaps even 
on the edges of the Vine leaves, on a bright summer 
morning. This dew r is refreshing to growing plants, 
it is Nature’s method of re-invigorating before the 
approaching heat of the sun, and shows that the night 
temperature has not been too high. But when it is 
seen in abundance in a house of Grapes, although it 
may do little actual harm of itself, its evaporation if 
not carefully conducted is attended by untold dangers. 
The dew is caused in the following way. The house 
and its contents are allowed to become comparatively 
cool and remain so for some hours during night; in the 
morning soon after sunrise there is a great and sudden 
rise of temperature, produced by the sun acting on the 
small body of air confined in the house. The fruit, being 
cooled throughout, does not get warmed nearly so 
quickly as the air, and as a natural consequence the 
moisture condenses on its cold surface; and the same 
thing takes place on the surface of the leaves and stems 
in proportion to their vigour and thickness, those which 
are in the rudest state of health, consequently the 
thickest, being the most liable to accident in this way. 
Moisture also condenses on the glass and any cold 
metal, slate, or plaster which may be in the house, and 
in a less degree on the woodwork. When such a state 
of things is seen in a house of Grapes, the attendant, 
knowing it ought not to have taken place, is naturally 
anxious to get rid of it. Air is immediately given, and 
then what happens ? The great disparity between the 
outer temperature and that of the house causes the 
warm air to rush out, taking much of the moisture 
with it, and thus by a rapid evaporation causes a com¬ 
plete chill, and we gardeners, for some unaccountable 
reason, when the foliage is injured in this way call it 
scorching. The chill leaves its marks most plainly on 
the tender _ skin of newly formed berries, but they are 
not visible for some time to any but the closest observer, 
and when they do show plainly the man who has done 
the thinning gets the credit for causing it by using 
dirty scissors or having too much pomatum on his 
head, when a very slight examination w T ill show that 
there is rust where no scissors nor hair could possibly 
touch. Some Vines are especially liable to have their 
terminal shoots injured from the cause just mentioned, 
and the most susceptible as far as I know is Alicante. 
During the flowering period yve have lately applied a 
little whiting to the east side of our vinery, mixing it 
■with a little milk, a little size, or something which 
would hold it on for a time, and applying it with a 
syringe. 
If anyone w r ould like to prove what happens on 
giving air after the temperature has risen considerably, 
let him keep his Cucumber frame shut up closely with¬ 
out shade till he cannot see through the glass, say till 
ten o’clock on a bright summer morning, then give air 
and w r atcli the result. We very often hear of amateurs’ 
Cucumbers being injured in this way, but it is very 
seldom attributed to the right cause. They are generally 
said to be scorched by the sun, wdien they w T ere in 
reality chilled by sudden and excessive evaporation. 
I used to think that the scalding of berries in Lady 
Downe’s and other Grapes was brought about by the 
same cause as rust and the so-called scorched shoots, 
but recent experience has taught me different. I am 
now fully convinced it is caused by too high a sun 
temperature after stoning has commenced. It is of 
no use attempting to hurry a fruit during the stoning 
period, it must have its own length of time ; its flesh 
will not increase, it seems rather to diminish, and any 
attempt to hurry it will only end in disaster. A maxi¬ 
mum of 80° in the shade after the house is closed is 
quite high enough for Grapes during this critical period, 
and if the temperature cannot be kept down to this 
figure otherwise, a little shade for such a variety as 
Lady Dowme’s will be advisable, but I do not think 10 Q 
or 15° higher when the ventilators are wide open will 
do any harm ; at the same time I endeavour to keep 
