JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 11, 1882. ] 
use recommending varieties under these circumstances, but a re¬ 
minder about planting these very popular and beautiful decorative 
varieties will not be inappropriate on the eve of the planting 
season. I saw many things at Tottenham worth mention, but 
nothing so impressed me as the enormous quantity of single 
Dahlias, and I hasten to make a note of the circumstance.— 
Visitor. 
HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 
Not a word will I write to disparage the lover of the gay par¬ 
terre. Those that prefer the three or four months’ blaze of vivid 
colours, or choose to work out the design of some elaborate carpet 
bed, are fully entitled to that pleasure ; but the spring flowers and 
spring bedding are my favourites. It has always been one of my 
chief pleasures to spend a few hours at different seasons of the year 
among our hardy plants in such collections as are to be seen at the 
Hale Farm and York Nurseries, also in other places where these old 
favourites are under proper care. Take, for instance, the Anemones 
of spring that are, and have been, giving us fine displays of flowers, 
from pure white to intense scarlet. I do not remember having 
seen them so fine as they have been this spring. Anemone nemorosa 
plena is remarkably fine. A. apennina is charming ; its soft blue 
colour and fine foliage contrast well with the above double white. 
A. pulsatilla is an acquisition, and does well by the stone edging, 
and ought to be grown more than it is. Then the imported varie¬ 
ties both single and double are magnificent in large beds. Primulas 
are remarkably fine this season, P. denticulata particularly so. 
P. cortusoides amFvarieties are equally interesting. Our Bird’s-eye 
Primrose (Primula farinosa) makes a charming edging plant in the 
spring garden ; its mealy foliage and bright pink flowers have a 
pleasing effect. Primula nivalis is a perfect gem and worthy 
extensive cultivation ; too much cannot be said in its favour. 
P. marginata is very beautiful. P. viscosa and others are equally 
interesting. The Auriculas are magnificent ; but the selected 
Alpines are the best. The Phloxes are charming with bright pink 
and white flowers, but they require care to keep them within 
bounds. They make splendid edging plants, and are most at home 
on the rockery ; they are best increased by division after flowering. 
Triteleia uuiflora has stood through the last three winters with us ; 
at the present time it is giving us a profusion of its lovely flowers, 
and is worthy of extensive cultivation. Fritillarias of different 
kinds are very beautiful, the taller in the borders, the awarfer 
in the centres of beds in the spring garden. The variegated-leaved 
varieties are very attractive. Anyone wanting an effective bed of 
white flowers in the spring will do well to turn their attention to 
the Pansy known by the name of Great Eastern. Strike the cut¬ 
ting in early autumn ; plant out in good soil as early as possible 
after the bedding plants are removed. For years past I have found 
them to answer the purpose admirably.— Verna. 
WORKjwheWE ek. . 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apricots have made sufficient foliage to protect the fruit, and the 
coverings can be removed except in damp or low situations where it 
may be necessary to continue it a few days; but it is well to uncover 
on fine days, to harden the trees, as the foliage is likely to be injured 
by sudden exposure to bright sun. Thinning the fruit must be 
attended to in good time, and where the trees are young and healthy 
the fruits may be thinned to 0 inches apart; but in the case of 
unhealthy or old trees a larger number should be left until the 
stoning process has commenced, otherwise during this period a 
portion may fall off, and so render the crop lighter than intended. 
The great evil in the cultivation of fruit trees is allowing them in 
fruitful seasons to carry too heavy crops, the consequence being that 
the fruit is not so fine and well ripened as with a moderate crop, and 
the trees are so exhausted as to be unable to perfect the buds for 
the following season, and the result is a state of barrenness every 
alternate year. Early thinning the young fruit affords a chance of 
that remaining on the trees being fine and well matui-ed, and enables 
the trees to annually perform their functions in due season without 
impairing their vigour. The leaf-rolling caterpillar will require 
391 
frequent search, squeezing the leaves affected between the thumb 
and finger. The foreright and other shoots not required for laying 
in should be pinched to three or four leaves, removing any superfluous 
growths altogether, avoiding overcrowding, laying in where required 
shoots for filling vacant space or extending the trees, nailing or 
tying in. allowing space in the shreds or ties for the swelling of the 
growths. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The fiuit of the very early Peache3, such 
as Early Beatrice and Early Louise, are now ripening ; and although 
the fruits are small as compared with the other early kinds, such as 
A Bee and Hales’ Early, still they afford acceptable dishes, and 
where earliness is a consideration are well worth place. It is likely, 
however, that they will be superseded by Alexander, which, in addi¬ 
tion to being quite as early, has the advantage of having very much 
larger fruit. Trees with the fruit ripening must not be syringed, 
and it must not be continued too long in the case of those advanced 
for ripening. Still attend to regulating and tying-in the shoots, 
stopping laterals to one joint, especially those from shoots retained 
to attract the sap to the fruit. Although a drier atmosphere is 
advisable when the fruit is ripening, moderate moisture in the air is 
essential for the health of the trees, hence damping the borders 
occasionally on fine days must be resorted to, and the borders should 
be examined and have supplies of water as needed to keep them 
healthfully moist. Ventilation should, whenever the weather is 
favourable, be liberal, with a little constantly. The temperature 
should be continued at 60° to 65° at night and 70° to 75 CI by day, 
and 10° to 15° higher from sun heat. 
The trees started at the beginning of the year have the fruits 
stoning well, and as that which now remains will do so unless a 
severe or sudden check be given, the night temperature may be raised 
to 60° to 05° at night and 70° to 75° by day, with a rise to 80° or 85° 
from sun heat. With the above temperatures the atmosphere must 
be kept moist in the daytime by frequently sprinkling the borders 
and other available surfaces, and by syringing the trees in the morn¬ 
ings and in the afternoons when closing the house, but ventilate 
slightly during the night, and freely whenever the weather is 
favourable. 
The fruit in succession and late houses will need attention in 
thinning, which must be regulated by the health of the trees. Some 
varieties of Peaches and Nectarines where the trees are in good 
health may be thinned as soon as the fruit commences swelling freely, 
which gives the fruit a better chance of attaining a good size ; but 
others, as for instance Bellegarde and Barrington, require more care 
in thinning in their early stages, it being safest to wait to see 
what fruits take the lead in swelling, and are well exposed to sun 
and light. Tie in the growths as they advance, and remove all 
superfluous shoots, carefully avoiding overcrowding, allowing no 
more to remain than will be needed for next season’s bearing or for 
furnishing the trees. Trees intended to afford ripe fruit in July 
should be kept growing, maintaining a night temperature of 55°, and 
00° to G5° by day, at and above which ventilate freely. See that 
there is no deficiency of moisture in the borders, giving thorough 
supplies when needed, and syringe the trees twice a day when the 
weather is fine, but it must be done early in the afternoon so as to 
allow the foliage to become dry before night. Keep late houses well 
ventilated, so that the succession of fruit may meet that grown on 
walls. 
Pines .—Young plants in preparation for fruiting should be separated 
from those which are now fruiting, so that the former may have the 
conditions necessary to their attaining robustness of growth and stur¬ 
diness of habit. Solar heat will now greatly assist in maintaining the 
requisite temperature, but care must be taken not to induce in young 
plants a soft weakly attenuated growth by closing at a very high degree 
of heat. Keep the plants in a light position, and avoid crowding them. 
Syringe them about twice a week, and maintain the air about them 
moderately moist by sprinkling the floors occasionally, employing 
fire heat only to prevent the temperature falling below 00° at night and 
to keep it at 70° in the day. Ventilate between 75° to 80°, and diminish 
or increase the supply of air so as to maintain the temperature through 
the day at 80° to 90° or 95°, with abundance of air, closing for the day 
