May 11, 1882. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
393 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post,, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
To Correspondents.—Several inquiries which reached us by Wednesday 
morning’s post cannot be answered this week. Correspondents would find it 
greatly to their advantage to submit their questions as soon as possible after the 
Journal reaches them. This is the only course for insuring satisfactory replies 
being published in the “ next issue.” 
Double Primroses (A. C., Sunbtti-y ).—Although we have repeatedly re¬ 
marked that dry cotton wool extracts the moisture from flowers, we find it still, 
perhaps more extensively, employed than any other packing material. Had you 
seen the flowers shrivelled and dried when we opened the box you would not 
have known them. We can only say that the double crimson variety appears to 
be very fine, the primrose variety rather coarse, while the others are neither par¬ 
ticularly novel nor attractive. 
Seedling Carnation (IF. Wallace). —The flower is sweet, and in a measure 
attractive; but while we think it worthy of preservation (if the habit of the 
plant is good) it lacks the qualities of smoothness and symmetry possessed by 
the best named varieties ; or, in other words, while it may be useful for decora¬ 
tive and cutting purposes we think it is of little or no commercial value. 
Primulas ( Lancastrian ).—Both the Primulas you name can be raised from 
seed, and we know of nothing to prevent crosses being had between them by 
careful manipulation. In reference to obtaining plants of Oxlips we can only 
suggest that you advertise your wants, stating whether you require the Bardfield 
Oxlip or the large English Oxlip, or both. They are quite distinct. If you state 
the numbers of “ Wild Flowers ” you require, the publisher, we think, will be 
able to supply them. You will find an answer to your second letter in our 
issue of July 1st, 1880. 
Planting Flower Border and Beds (Subscriber).—We think your pro¬ 
posed plan of planting the curved border and beds will be effective ; the long 
border will also look well provided the Alternantbera grows tall enough for its 
position. The Ageratum you propose using is, we presume, the dwarf variety. 
Would not the mixed variegated Pelargoniums and Violas, also the scarlet Pelar¬ 
goniums and yellow Calceolarias, look well in panels with a row of Ageratum 
next the fence ? 
Adiantum farleyense (IF. R .).—The plants usually grow well in such a 
compost as you have employed, provided they are carefully watered and a genial 
atmosphere is maintained. Syringe the pots and stage frequently, and shade 
the plants by fixing a newspaper over them during bright weather. You say 
you have given “ plenty of water; ” have you given too much ? This is a mis¬ 
take sometimes made with newly potted plants. 
Cucumbers (Steven Castle). —The Cucumbers you have sent are very fine 
indeed. The white-spine variety is 20 inches long, perfectly straight, well pro¬ 
portioned, and firm ; colour a dark shining green, and the general appearance 
not unlike Tender and True. The dark-spined fruit is 2 inches shorter, and is in 
all respects a beautiful fruit. Both the varieties are evidently good, and the 
plants are undeniably well cultivated. We have not seen a finer brace of Cucum¬ 
bers this year. 
Warts on Vine Leaves (F. C.). —The leaf arrived quite fresh, and is 
clean and healthy with the exception of warts on the under side of it. These 
are not caused by the soil of the border, but an over-rich soil promotes the 
growth of foliage peculiarly liable to injury by an over-moist atmosphere and a 
sudden change of temperature and the attendant evaporation. The vinery has 
been kept closed too long at some time or other in the morning, and then air 
has been admitted incautiously, and perhaps to the extent of lowering the tem¬ 
perature. Read what Mr. Taylor says on this subject on page 338, and in our 
present issue. 
Rose Catalogue (Rosarian ).—We are unable to answer your question; 
write to Rev. H. H. D’Ombrain, Westwell Vicarage, Ashford, Kent, the senior 
Honorary Secretary of the National Rose Society. You ask when the “ Year 
Book ” will be published for this year ? If you mean the “ Rosarian's Year 
Book ” it has been published months ago, and was reviewed in our columns at 
the time ; if you mean the “ Gardeners’ Year Book,” it will be published in 
December. 
Seedling Auriculas (B .).—The flowers sent are such as are usually raised 
from seed that has been purchased or that has been saved from ordinary border 
flowers. Seed saved from good named varieties or from selected flowers contain¬ 
ing good properties—such as excellence of form, with clearly defined centres and 
rich colours—would give very much better results. The varieties before us are 
not of sufficient merit for culture in pots, but are attractive in borders. We 
should leave them there, and if they possess the vigour enabling them to with¬ 
stand the weather they will be attractive ; if they succumb that will prove they 
lack an important element that is essential in border flowers—namely, hardiness 
and the vigorous growth that can render them effective. You will find notes on 
the culture of Auriculas in borders on page 377 of our present issue. 
Cyclamens (Idem ).—The varieties of Cyclamen persicum, to which we pre¬ 
sume you refer, do not usually grow and flower freely in a cold greenhouse. The 
temperature should never be lower than 45°, and a minimum of 50° is better. If 
you can maintain such a temperature and the plants are strong you may allow 
them to flower from Christmas onwards. As your plants have not proved satis¬ 
factory we conclude that at least one important cause of their failure was the 
absence of the requisite heat for the development of the flowers. The plants 
succeed well in frames during the summer or planted out in the garden, potting 
them again in September. 
Alpine Auriculas (-4. C., Keighley ).—The flowers you have sent are 
pretty border Alpines. There is a faint approach to the named varieties as 
exhibited by Mr. Turner and others in No. 7 and No. G3. The former has a 
deep rich circular centre, but there its merits end, as the margin is thin, loose, 
and irregular, the colour also lacking firmness. The latter bears a general 
resemblance to the laced Alpines, but the margin is too broad and clouded ; in 
fact the flowers represent a coarse and somewhat common form of the type 
and are quite lacking in refinement. 
Manure for Cactus (J. T .).—It is quite impossible for anyone to answer 
your question without knowing to what Cactus you refer and its condition. 
There is a possibility that manure of any kind put round the plant might be 
more injurious than beneficial ; still, if the plant is very large and the pot in 
which it is growing very small, the soil also being much crowded with roots 
and exhausted, some stimulant may be desirable either in the form of fresh soil 
or a top-dressing of soil and manure. If you can make the condition of the 
plant clear to us we shall be glad to give you such advice as will probably be 
useful. 
Insects on Cucumbers (Mrs. It., Blaclclieath). —The numerous white 
specks on the leaf sent are not insects, nor caused by insects ; still on the 
under side of the leaf we find unmistakcable signs of the presence of thrips. 
The atmosphere of the house in which the Cucumbers are grown has been too 
dry, and there has also been some defect in the ventilation, unless—and on this 
point you say nothing—the plants have been bearing for a long time and 
become exhausted. All such leaves as those sent must be removed, active root- 
action being promoted, a genial atmosphere maintained, and insects extirpated. 
Light fumigations on two or three consecutive nights would be useful, and if 
the under sides of the leaves were sponged with a solution of soft soap, Gisliurst 
compound, or other good insecticide, the insects w’ould be destroyed. The 
foliage has been scorched by the sun, and careful ventilation is requisite. 
Syringing the plants freely twice a day would be of great service, and the roots 
must be well supplied with water, and top-dressings of soil and manure as they 
protrude through the surface. 
Cutback Vines (T. II .).—When, from whatever cause canes raised from 
eyes inserted in the spring are too weak in autumn for either fruiting or plant¬ 
ing, the best mode of treating them is to cut them down after the leaves aro 
fallen to the lowest good eye or bud within an inch of the surface of the soil. 
Roots being already provided, and suitable soil afforded, growth will be rapid 
in the spring, and with good management you will have strong early-matured 
canes raised from “cutbacks.” This is the best method for those culti¬ 
vators to adopt who have not well-heated and light structures for growing 
young Vines in early in the season, say in February and March. Eyes for pro¬ 
ducing strong matured Vines the same season must be inserted early so as to 
commence growing in February, and a stove temperature must then be main¬ 
tained. The starting of cutbacks can be deferred until March, and they will 
grow with less care than is requisite for Vines directly raised from eyes ; 
indeed they will succeed if needed in a light position in an ordinary vinery. 
If we have not given the precise information you require write to us again. 
Young Vines Failing (II. F. IF.).—You say this is your “ first attempt 
at Grape-growing,” but even this being so it is difficult for us to understand 
why you did not make yourself better acquainted with the subject before com¬ 
mencing the work. You have acted wrongly both in the choice of Vines, 
compost for border, and method of planting, and have thus invited failure. 
Vines previously exhausted by having been fruited in pots are not suitable for 
planting. Peat and rotted manure should not have been used in making the 
border, a trench should not have been dug, and the balls of soil and roots placed 
in and the compost packed round them. Your Vines will, we think, do no good, 
and probably your best plan will be to destroy them, employing different com¬ 
post and plant better Vines in a better manner. The best advice we can give 
you under the circumstances is to read attentively our “Vine Manual,” which 
you can obtain post free for 3s. 2d., and then apply to us again for information 
on any points that you do not sufficiently comprehend. 
Vines from Eyes (F. J.). — In all probability the injury to the leaves 
was caused by the products of combustion from the lamp that you placed in the 
frame, although you apparently did all that was possible towards preventing 
damage ensuing. The young leaves of Vines raised so early in a dung frame 
are extremely tender, and even a sudden outburst of sun for an hour after a few 
dull days would cause the injury, so would a sharp current of air. Still, we 
think, judging from the symptoms you describe, that the lamp was the cause 
of injury. You would have succeeded better had you kept the Vine eyes cool 
for a month after inserting them in January, and placed them in the heat you 
name in February. It is exceedingly difficult to maintain the requisite heat 
and a healthy atmosphere in a dung frame in January and onwards, and the 
supplementary heat afforded by a lamp must always be inimical to such tender 
foliage as that of young Vines, Cucumbers, or Melons. You may consider your¬ 
self fortunate in succeeding so well as you appear to have done. 
A Range of Fruit Houses (II. R. IF.).—Avoid lofty houses. For a 
10-feet wall the best form is a semi-span 15 feet wide, 12 feet high at top of span, 
with front sashes upon a low 9-inch wall, 18 inches high including wall plate, 
and the sashes 4 feet 6 inches high. A lean-to for Vines only would answer 
well without front sashes, but as only part of the range is for Vines it is better 
for the sake of uniformity as well as for general utility to have them. All 
interior division walls to be 4J inches thick, and of an uniform height with the 
front wall. Avoid heavy woodwork: sashbars 3 inches by lj, with a rafter 
3 inches by 3 at every eighth row of glass, answers well for this class of roof. 
For wall plates 2J inches is an ample thickness, and 4 inches by 3 is stout 
enough for framing of front sashes. The whole of the outside glass to be 21-oz. 
seconds, and the squares 20 inches by 12. Inside the glass may be 15 oz. seconds. 
Avoid ridge caps or lanterns for ventilation, they are an unnecessary expense and 
great heat-wasters, the hottest air always ascending into them. The best form 
of roof ventilation is a glazed flap a foot wide at top of the south side of the 
ridge. Front ventilation if required may be of the same form along the bottom 
of the front sashes. This range, 150 feet long, may be divided into two vineries, 
each 30 feet long, an early Peach house of 30 feet, and an orchard house 60 feet 
long to contain Peaches, Nectarines, Figs, Apricots, Plums, or you might have 
a Fig house of 30 feet, and a late Peach house of the same length. Strawberries 
in pots might be had on shelves near the glass at back and front. Tomatoes 
aud Cucumbers could also be had in quantity in summer. In winter there 
would be space for large quantities of Violets. If so much fruit is not required 
one division might be had for a greenhouse. A length of 30 feet would not 
contain sufficient Grape Vines for the requirements of an ordinary family; a 
second house would also afford space for some late-keeping Grapes, such as Lady 
Downe’s Seedling and Black Alicante. If the range is at all exposed to high 
wind, great stability is imparted to the roof by liaviDg an iron bar 3 inches by 
a quarter put on edge along beneath the roof half way up the front slope upon 
hollow iron pillars. There should also be stout iron tie rods connecting each 
back and front rafter, and securely bolted upon them. Even without undue 
exposure to wind it is well to use the bar, pillars, and tie rods to impart strength 
and prevent any settlement of the roof, which otherwise is by no means 
uncommon. We presume you will employ a horticultural builder. 
Names of Plants (J. L„ Newport).—!, Ledum palustre; 2, Andromeda 
formosa. (Hunts Hemci/e ).—Send another specimen, the last was quite crushed. 
(IF. E. B.).— Anguloa Ciowesi. (IF. A’.).—Daphne Cneorum. 
Various (Tyro ).—You ask us, “What should be the size of ( straw supering 
hives V ’ ” but do not state whether you intend skeps or straw frame hives. For 
fairly good districts the contents of a hive should be about 2000 cubic inches— 
i.e., if you multiply the length, breadth, and height in inches together it should 
