456 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 1, 1882. 
assume the hexagonal shape as they progress ? In describing the 
eye of the bee we showed that where a number of circles or spheres 
are developed in close contact they resolve themselves into perfect 
hexagons. Turning to other natural objects, we observe in the tissue 
of plants, that when the circular cells become differentiated and take 
the form of tubes growing together with the neighbouring vessels of 
similar shape, they assume the hexagonal type, and their structure 
then greatly resembles the honeycomb. This we find exemplified not 
only in the higher plants and animals, but also most beautifully in 
some of those mysterious forms the Diatomacem, where the siliceous 
cases present the perfect honeycomb structure. Again, mathema¬ 
ticians of undoubted ability tell us that the hexagonal cells of honey¬ 
comb exhibit precisely the form that would result from close contact 
and adhesion of a number of circular or cylindrical bodies of a soft 
flexible substance; and lastly, an examination of honeycomb shows ns 
that where a cell is terminal—that is to say, where another is not 
added to it at the terminal side—it is not hexagonal, but irregularly 
round. 
“ Now it certainly appears to us to be going a little out of our way if 
we seek to attribute the hexagonal shape of these cells to the result 
of an instinct in the bee that transcends the calculating powers of the 
ablest mathematicians, when we find by accumulated evidence that 
the natural form assumed by a series of circles when brought into 
close contact would be that of the cells of a honeycomb. Looking, 
then, at the foregoing circumstance, and considering also that all 
animals construct tubular or circular habitations, we should be dis¬ 
posed to agree with those naturalists who regard the hive cells as 
normally cylindrical ; and certainly the mathematical precision with 
which they appear to be framed inclines us to attribute the hexagonal 
form to mechanical rather than to instinctive causes.” 
Owing to the length of the above quotations I must reserve 
my notice of other unsettled questions for another letter.— 
A. Pettigrew. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Anthony Cullen, Gresham Road, Staines .—List of Bedding Plants. 
E. Wilson, Serpe.ll, Plymouth .—List of' Bedding and Greenhouse 
Plants. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the stalf often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
To Correspondents. —Several letters of inquiry which reached us by 
Wednesday morning’s post cannot be answered until next week. 
Pink Lily of the Valley (M. I).). —We know there is a form of this 
popular favourite that produces pink flowers, and they are as fragrant as those 
of the type ; but whether the pink Lily is plentiful or not we do not know, but 
suspect it is rather scarce, nor do we know where plants can be purchased. 
Perhaps some of our readers may know more about the variety than we do, and 
can give information respecting it. 
African Tortoise ( Testudo ).—We are glad to leajru that our remarks 
proved of service to you, and to hear that the tortoise is such a favourite in 
your house and garden. It will no doubt eat Lettuces and probably nibble at 
some flowers, but will not do any material injury. We are glad to receive your 
letter, but the pressure on our columns is so great just now that we have no 
available space for its insertion. 
Making Rockeries (A. IF. P .).—We are not aware that there is any work 
published on this subject. On page 349 of our issue of October 20th, 1881, Mr. 
Wolley Dod described in concise terms how he had made a rockery that gave 
him great satisfaction. The subject is briefly alluded to on pages 170 and 172 
of our “ Garden Manual,” and suitable lists of Ferns and alpine plants are given. 
This work (Is. 9<7. post free), is probably in your library, and it contains much 
that is useful for amateurs. 
Insects on Apple Trees (F. J. 7?.).—We are unable to say what the 
insect is that is doing the damage without seeing it; but whatever it is, if 
you syringe the trees forcibly, taking care that no portions are missed, with the 
hellebore and quassia mixture recommended to another correspondent, it will 
destroy the insects and not injure the fruit. 
Jasminum hirsutum (IT. IF.).—The plant we figured was described by 
Willdenow and Smith, and in the “ Hortus Kewensis.” It is not synonymous 
with J. pubescens of Roxburgh, which you will find figured in Rheede’s 
“ Hortus Indicus Malabaricus.” It has more pointed petals, approaching 
J. gracillimum shown some time since by Messrs. Veitch & Sons of Chelsea. Indeed 
the latter was at first mistaken for the true J. pubescens. We inadvertently 
omitted to say that the name of the plant of which you sent a spray was 
Abutilon vexillarium. 
Destroying Gooseberry Caterpillars (G. II. A).—A correspondent, 
“G. O. S„” has strongly recommended the following as the best mode, and per¬ 
fectly safe, of destroying this destructive pest:—Put 4 ozs. white hellebore 
powder and 2 ozs. of quassia chips into a two-gallon stone bottle, fill it with 
boiling water, shal e it well, and allow it to become cold. Pour some of the 
contents into a basin or bucket, and with an old whitewash brush sprinkle it 
over the bushes, holding up the lower branches with a stick ; dash some of the 
liquid on to the under side of the leaves. It is efficacious, not only for Goose¬ 
berry trees, but also for Currants, Raspberries, and Rose-tree pests. Mr. Taylor 
of Longleat has found fir-tree oil, half a pint dissolved in four gallons of soft 
water, completely efficacious in destroying caterpillars and most other insects. 
It is important that soft water be used ; failures have occurred and even injury 
ensued to tender foliage when hard water has been used. 
Pyrethrums for Towns ( Citizen ).—There are few, if any, better plants 
for town and city gardens than double and single Pyrethrums. We have 
observed them growing and flowering with great freedom where many other 
flowers had to struggle for existence by the want of a sufficiency of pure air. 
Pyrethrums pass the winter without protection, and are not eaten so voraciously 
as many other plants are by snails and slugs ; still they need protection from 
these nocturnal depredators. Without knowing how many plants you require 
we cannot usefully submit a list of varieties. If you do not possess any plants 
you will obtain a better return for your money by ordering the number you 
require from a nurseryman or florist, leaving the selection to him. You will 
then procure good plants and good varieties. 
Dionsea muscipula Culture (A Linn). —This curious little plant re¬ 
quires a warm greenhou-e. Chopped sphagnum and fibrous rough peat in equal 
parts, with a fourth of silver sand, and pots broken rather small, the plant 
potted rather high in the centre of a 4} 2 or 6-inch pot half filled with drainage, 
and the pot placed in one of larger size, the interval filled with sphagnum, and 
this stood in a saucer of water, covering the plant with a bellglass but not 
resting on the moss all round, raising it a little on one side, and taking off and 
wiping dry occasionally. Position light, but shaded from direct sun. The 
saucer to be kept full of water, lessening it in winter. Seeds give the healthiest 
plants. They may be sown in a pot prepared as for the plant. Leaves laid in 
damp moss covered with a bellglass will occasionally emit a young plant. 
Black Currants Failing (IF. A).—The growths yon have sent indicate 
that your bushes are in a very weak and debilitated state. They have made an 
attempt to grow, but have failed from exhaustion. If you prune them severely, 
cutting them partially down, and enrich the soil with farmyard manure, or by 
copious applications of liquid manure, they will be invigorated, and produce 
strong growths totally different from those before us. You had better also 
obtain some young trees, not raping them from the enfeebled bushes that now 
refuse to grow. Cut them down at once. It is no use leaving them in their pre¬ 
sent condition. Such wood can never be made healthy, but new growths may 
be induced. Had you stated the age and size of the bushes we could have given 
you more explicit directions for cutting them down. 
Diplacua glutinosus ( Violet ).—The above is the name of the plant 
about which you seek information ; it is a greenhouse evergreen shrub, and 
was introduced from California in 1794. It is of easy culture. Cuttings in¬ 
serted in sandy soil in spring, covered with a bellglass and placed in a close 
heated frame, strike readily. The after treatment of the plants may be the 
same as you would give for Fuchsias, and the soil may be the same—namely, 
half turfy loam, and the remaining half peat and leaf soil, with a little sand 
added. Give larger pots as required, stop the growths to insure a bushy habit, 
nnd in due time the plants will produce their orange-scarlet flowers freely. 
When the plants are large they may have stronger soil and be stood outdoors 
on ashes in the summer, watering them freety. In the winter they should have 
a light position in a well-ventilated greenhouse, keeping the soil rather dry. 
After the plants have flowered in May or .June they need some pruning to keep 
them bushy, nnd shortly afterwards when the young growths that issue after 
the pruning are an inch long is the time for repotting or top-dressing as may be 
needed. 
Melons not Swelling (IF.).—It does not follow that all the fruits, the 
flowers of which were fertilised on the same day, will swell with equal rapidity. 
Some will often get in advance of others, and thus appropriate the sap at the 
expense of the smaller fruits, which fail by lack of adequate support. The 
fertilisation, too, of all flowers is not alike effectually performed, though they 
may have received the same treatment, owing to a difference in the state 
of the organs of fructification not the less important if not visible to the 
naked eye. Much depends, too, on the position of the fruits as regards their 
swelling or failing to swell; but while this difference is not easy to explain, it 
is not difficult for an experienced eye to detect on a close examination of the 
plants. The stopping of the growths of Melons so as to effect an equal distri¬ 
bution of sap over the plants is important towards securing a regular crop. 
Neglected Garden (J. K. Ii .).~We are very willing to help you, but it is 
most difficult to understand a case of this kind. Root-pruning old trees, for 
instance, might do more harm than good, everything depends on their con¬ 
dition. Neither can we determine how far it would be wise to burn all the old 
Gooseberry and Currant tushes. If they are very weak and wild, and the ground 
is further infested with such deep-rooting perennial weeds as couch grass, 
Docks, and Thistles, it would probably be advisable to carry out your project. 
We should not trench the ground two spades deep now, but should fork it over 
as deep as is needed, and carefully shake out the weeds, casting them on the 
surface. In a short time they will wither, and can then be collected and burned. 
If the ground is very full of such weeds as we have named it may be advisable 
after burning the rubbish to fork it over once more, proceeding in an opposite 
direction ; you would then get it tolerably clean, and the thorough working that 
the soil would undergo would increase its fertility. As you do not indicate the 
nature of the soil, whether it is light and dry or strong and wet, we are not in 
a position to judge as to how far lime is needed ; if rather strong a dressing at 
the rate of SO bushels per acre would probably be beneficial. It is no use giving 
a light dressing for killing grubs, and if the land is of a dry character we 
should add 20 bushels of salt to the 50 of lime ; if wet we should omit the salt 
and probably use twice the quantity of lime, but this would depend on circum¬ 
stances. Gas-lime used fresh is excellent for destroying predatory vermin, and 
it may be applied to ground that is not to be cropped for some months at the 
rate of 30 bushels per acre, but not over the roots of fruit trees. It should be 
spread and forked in at once, or its insect-killing power will be dissipated if 
the lime be long exposed on the surface. Gas-lime must not be used at any¬ 
thing like the strength named just before the ground is cropped. Such tre«3 
