JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 523 
proper at home after they have gathered the crude and raw 
materials from flowers. Many other bee-keepers are as familiar 
with this fact as I am. A sample of honey was brought to me 
the other day for my opinion of it. It was evidently a mixture 
of crude and perfect honey. I told the gentleman what it was 
and how it was mixed. It had been taken from the combs by an 
extractor before half of it or thereabouts had been converted by 
the bees into honey proper, and thus the mixture was effected. 
Another point disputed is the advantage of preserving and 
using old combs. It is said that if the honey be extracted and 
the combs preserved for future use a great saving is effected or 
larger profits realised. This is the sum of the arguments of one 
school of apiarians. There is doubtless some truth and reason in 
it. On the other hand there are apiarians, equally honest and 
enlightened, who think that old combs are disadvantageous to bees 
—almost always overloaded with pollen, or, in other words, too 
many cells filled with it. Sometimes affected with foul brood and 
producing smaller bees and fewer in number than young combs. 
The question of young combs yielding larger bees than old ones 
cannot be questioned. Hives with young combs are, generally 
speaking, the most prosperous ; comparatively exempt from dis¬ 
ease, with bees of full stature and development. We hold combs 
arc old enough at the end of their second working season.— 
A. Pettigrew. 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
Con-y, Soper, Fowler & Co., Finsbury Street, London, E.C.— Trade 
List of Horticultural Sundries and Garden Requisites. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Pelargonium Trusses Decaying (F. J. Olton ).—If the plant is in 
other respects healthy, we think the injury has been caused by drip. Trusses 
too large and dense, as the one you have sent, are very liable to decay from an 
accumulation of water, which saturates the upper portion of the stem on which 
the flowers are borne. 
Calvary Clover (Mrs. Ramon ).—Tour letter has been forwarded to Mr. 
Brierley, who kindly offered a few seeds or a plant to a Perthshire correspondent, 
who has not yet sent her address. We know Mr. Brierley has not more than 
half a dozen plants, but possibly he may be able to procure more seeds. We 
forwarded your letter because you were the first to allude to this Clover in the 
late discussion. 
Black Fungus on Vines (D. L. 0 .).—There is no live fungus on the 
leaves, but signs of mycelium in the tissue. The moment you perceive fungus 
apply sulphur, which will destroy it. You would probably And Ewing's mildew 
composition serviceable, and we advise you to try it, using it according to the 
directions on the bottle. You can obtain it from Messrs. Ewing & Co., Eaton 
Nurseries, Norwich, or from dealers in horticultural requisites. We should be 
glad to hear of the results of this application. 
American Blight (Kesicick). —A. small wineglassful of paraffin well 
mixed in a gallon of soapsuds and applied to the affected parts with a brush 
will destroy the insects and not injure the trees—at least this has been the 
result in our case, but we have heard of different effects, due perhaps to the 
imperfect mixing of the two fluids, or to imperfect application. The dressing 
should be well scrubbed into the crevices of the bark where the insects abound. 
Stronger dressings can be applied after the leaves have fallen from the trees, 
and the trees then should be thoroughly cleansed. 
Enriching a Vine Border (Old Subscriber ).—Unless we know the state 
of the Vine border and Vines we cannot answer your letter. If we mistake not 
you sent us some foliage and a bunch of Grapes a short time ago that indicated 
the soil in which the Vine was growing was too rich, and we advised a dressing 
of lime for the border. Y r ou now ask for particulars for making the border 
richer, and these we will give you if you will enable us to comprehend the condi¬ 
tion of the Vines, and how the border was made and has been managed. In the 
absence of this information we cannot give you sound advice. 
Sowing Seeds of Spring Flowers (G. //.).—As was stated at the 
time in answer to a correspondent, "Wallflower seed should be sown in April for 
producing fine plants for flowering early in the following spring. The plants 
raised from seeds sown now will be necessarily small; ours were transplanted 
a foot apart a fortnight ago. Forget-me-not seed should be sown at once, and 
Bilene seed early in August, the plants to be subsequently thinned out, and 
those removed transplanted 6 inches apart iu rows a foot asunder, so as to 
become strong and of sturdy habit before winter. 
Melons Cankering (A Subscriber). —Melons are very liable to canker in 
some soils, and especially light soils. Your treatment as to removing the side 
growths when quite small is correct; the method of the “ old grower ” we have 
also adopted with equal success. Foliage so thinly placed that the sun can act 
on it, and not injured by rough handling, generous support such as may be 
afforded by frequent mulchings and copious supplies of water, with liquid 
manure occasionally, and never allowing a drop of water to fall within an inch 
of the stems of the plants, are the means we adopt to prevent canker, and with 
a judicious system of ventilation we succeed in our object. The plant is 
Saxifraga ceratophylla. 
Nectarines Falling (S. IF.).—Either the root-action of the trees is defec¬ 
tive or they have not been given the support that is necessary for the suste¬ 
nance of the crop, or, what amounts to the same thing, the crop is too heavy for 
the trees. Have you examined the border with the object of ascertaining 
whether the soil is moist or not 2 feet below the surface ? If it is at all dry 
there apply water copiously, and follow with liquid manure. In all probability 
much of the old border needs removal and the roots placing in fresh soil. The 
particle of fungus you sent had crumbled almost to powder. We do not think 
there is anything to be alarmed at. Give the border a good dressing of lime, 
pointing it lightly in ; it cannot do harm to the Vines, and may do good. 
Cucumbers in Frames (F. M. S.). —You ought to have prevented the 
overcrowding of which you speak by pinching the growths in a young state, 
and stopping the shoots immediately the fruits were formed. You must now 
prune the plants, but proceed gradually, removing about a fourth of the super¬ 
fluous growths one day, and so on on succeeding da} r s. Do not remove the 
large leaves alone, leaving the growths, but thin out the latter where over¬ 
crowded, and healthy uninjured foliage must be left on those remaining. To 
complete the pruning at one operation might give a serious check to the plants. 
We are constantly pinching our Cucumbers with the finger and thumb, and 
rarely remove portions more than 2 inches in length. This prevents over¬ 
crowding, while the plants receive no check and are very fruitful. 
Thinning Tomatoes (Idem). —Unless you desire fine specimens for ex¬ 
hibition, it will only be necessary to remove any fruits that may be likely to be 
deformed, and there are generally such in very large clusters. It is quite im¬ 
possible foi us to say how many you ought to leave on a bunch, as this depends 
entirely on the condition of the plants and the support that you give them. We 
have frequently seen clusters of a dozen fruits and more, and all found room to 
swell to a large size, but they could not have done so if the plants were not 
healthy and well supported. By trying a few experiments in thinning you 
will lose nothing and gain information that we cannot so well impart in this 
column. The leaves should not overshadow the bunches. 
Exhibiting Grape3 (E. M.). —The proper class for exhibiting the Mill 
Hill Hamburgh is the “ Any other black variety class ” than that provided for 
Black Hamburghs, as these are distinct varieties Exhibitors are, however, left 
very much at the fancy of judges in cases of this kind, as some judges would 
disqualify the Mill Hill Hamburgh in a Black Hamburgh class, and others 
would admit it. 
Wireworms in Vine Border (Yorkshire Rector). —These when in 
large numbers often do much injury to young Vines. They were in the fresh 
turf that was employed. The only means we can suggest for extirpating them 
is to bury plentifully Potatoes and Carrots in the soil and examine the baits 
frequently, and destroy all the wireworms that are caught. We know of no 
better means of clearing land of this pest than by planting it with Potatoes. 
We should syringe the Vines lightly twice a day in bright weather, as it can be 
done without injuring the plants, and if this does not induce growth we fear 
you will have to plant fresh Vines in suitable soil. Do not, however, destroy 
the Vines hastily, but try the plan we have suggested. 
Planting Bedding Plants (A Constant Subscriber). —We prefer planting 
on dull days or in the evenings of hot days, but it is often imperative to con¬ 
tinue planting throughout the day even if the weather is bright, and when this 
is the case it is often equally imperative to water the plants at once, as many if 
left unwatered until the evening would sustain much injury. Plants well 
established in pots, and not dry when planted, sustained no injury by being put 
out during a sunny day, but some other plants, such as Ageratums, Heliotropes, 
and Verbenas, turned out of boxes and their roots more or less disturbed, would 
receive a check if so planted. 
Destroying Woodlice (R. L.). —There are various ways of destroying 
these pests, the most wholesale plan being to place some pieces of boiled pota¬ 
toes near to the plants they infest and cover with a little hay, and in the morn¬ 
ing pour boiling water over the hay, so that the baits must be laid ■where no 
injury will accrue to the plants or their roots by the scalding water. Another 
plan is to wrap a boiled potato in a little hay very lightly, and place in a flower 
pot laid on its side near to where the woodlice congregate or commit their 
depredations, and the following morning shake the pests from the hay, in which 
they will be secreted about the bait, into a bucket of boiling water. Repeat for a 
time, and the pests will be reduced so as to do very little injury. Iu frames, 
pits, and houses much help is afforded by toads, they devouring great numbers ; 
but they are not much use in houses having the plants upon shelves and stages 
to which they have not access. Parsnips boiled nearly soft, cut into slices, and 
dressed with arsenic form deadly baits. These, if placed where the in-ects 
abound, will reduce their numbers considerably. It is, cf course, necessary to so 
place the poisonous baits that no accideut can possibly arise by their misuse. 
Gloxinias and Begonias Unhealthy (Regular Subscriber).— When 
correspondents state intelligibly, as many do, the treatment to which plants 
have been subjected that fail to give satisfaction they very frequently, without 
knowing it, indicate the cause of failure, and enable us the better to suggest a 
remedy. You afford us no guidance whatever in that respect. The appearance 
of the Gloxinia leaves suggests that root-action is defective, and the plants have 
not had the support they need ; but whether the evil is the result of unsuitable 
soil or injudicious watering, it is impossible for us to determine. If the plants 
are in very large pots they have probably been overwatered, if in very small pots 
the roots have most likely been too dry at some time, and the fine roots have 
shrivelled. We are assuming the plants have been grown in a proper tempera¬ 
ture and under suitable atmospheric conditions, though it is possible .they may 
not have been. The same remarks apply to the Begonia, with this important 
addition that the corm may have been, and probably was, in a diseased state 
when potted. If the whole of the leaves are like the one you have sent, we 
doubt if the plant can be brought into a healthy state. A temperature of 60 
to 65° at night, a moderately moist atmosphere, light shade for bright sun and 
judicious application of water, are the essentials in Gloxinia culture, and also 
Begonias, except as regards temperature, which may be 10° lower. 
