JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 29, 1882.] 
543 
garden north or south without some portion shaded a little, that 
can be kept moist and the soil made tolerably rich. Except care and 
trimming-in, if possible, yearly propagation and at least once 
re-making the beds, I believe Violas can on those conditions be most 
satisfactorily grown ; indeed, without any pretence to a collection, I 
find I can thus manage to have blooms for several months much 
more easily than on my Show Pansies. That they succeed admirably 
in Dublin I have had testimony in a glorious box of blooms from 
Sandford Hill on yesterday.—W. J. M., Clonmel. 
/if 
US WORK.foiitheWEEK,.' 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
French Beans may yet be sown on warm borders for late use, and 
those advancing should be well supplied with water in dry weather, 
similar remarks applying to Runner Beans and late crops of Peas. 
For the last sowing of early varieties of Peas sheltered situations 
must be chosen, but where due provision has been made to ensure a 
proper supply of the later sorts this will not be necessary. Sow a 
good breadth of Parsley, as it generally stands over next spring with¬ 
out running ; and where Parsley is much in request in winter, some 
may be sown in a pit according to the demand, to be covered with 
glass as cold weather sets in. For the present small sowings of 
Turnips will suffice, also of Spinach, Lettuces, Radish, and Mustard 
and Cress. Where young Carrots are in constant demand the Early 
Horn section may yet be sown, and will prove useful late in the 
season. 
Plant out Leeks in well-manured trenches, so as to admit of earth¬ 
ing up. With favourable weather continue to plant out Cauliflowers 
for late summer use, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and Broccoli, also the 
Kales or Borecoles of various kinds. Earth up early crops of Celery, 
and plant out for succession, supplying water freely. Keep the 
surface soil stirred about crops admitting of the process, not allowing 
weeds to make headway. Attend to nailing and tying up Tomato 
plants as they advance in growth, removing all side shoots when the 
requisite number of fruiting shoots are obtained. Train and thin out 
Ridge Cucumbers, training Vegetable Marrows evenly over the 
surface as they advance in growth, and give water freely in dry 
weather. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—The principal work in vineries now consists of keeping the 
lateral growths within reasonable bounds, and the borders moist. 
Thinning late Grapes should be brought to a close as soon as possible. 
After as much foliage has been produced as can be exposed to light, 
keep the laterals closely pinched to one joint of growth as formed, 
and see that Vines swelling their crops have liberal supplies of water. 
The light and dry inside borders made upon modern systems can 
hardly have too much water when the Vines are swelling off their 
crops, and outside borders, as a rule, do not receive sufficient in dry 
seasons ; therefore afford liquid manure abundantly, and mulch with 
rich material to encourage surface roots. Late Hamburghs need not 
have fire heat, or only to prevent the temperature falling below GO 0 
at night, and to maintain it at G5° to 70° by day in dull weather; but 
those that require a long time to ripen, as Muscat of Alexandria, Lady 
Downe’s, Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, &c., should have sufficient 
fire heat to prevent the temperature falling below 65° at night, and 
to keep it at TO® to 75° in the day ; and as the fruit of these will have 
to hang through the winter they will require to be thinned more than 
midseason Grapes ; indeed Hamburghs for late use will need rather 
more thinning than earlier ones, otherwise they cannot be expected 
to keep well when a cold damp atmosphere has to be contended with. 
Give plenty of ventilation with fire heat to Vines that are colouring, 
but with a heavy crop allow the temperature to fall to 60° at night, 
and do not restrict the laterals, but lose no opportunity of affording 
a free circulation of air. 
After dull warm weather pay particular attention to ventilation, 
as with bright sun there is danger of scalding the berries and scorch¬ 
ing the foliage, which is best avoided by ventilating a little during 
such weather, even if fire heat must be employed to allow it; and on 
fine mornings it will be necessary to ventilate early, so as to have the 
foliage dry before the sun acts powerfully upon it. Varieties 
peculiarly liable to scald, such as Lady Downe’s, should from stoning 
to colouring commencing have a light night temperature, with 
abundance of air in the daytime. Early Vines from which the 
Grapes have been cut must be well syringed every evening to keep 
the foliage clean and healthy as long as possible, allowing a moderate 
extension of the laterals, especially to Vines that are weakly. 
Attend to young Vines, and keep the roots near the surface by 
frequently watering over the mulching, and encourage the feeders 
from the stem by renewing the mulching as necessary. Vines in 
pots intended for very early forcing have completed their growth 
and should have less moisture, discontinuing syringing, and allowing 
free exposure to air and sun. 
Melons .—Plants that have been cleared of their crops should be re¬ 
moved unless they are healthy and justify the taking of a second 
crop from them. In the latter case as much of the old growth 
should be cut away as is necessary to give the young shoots space 
for development, the loose surface soil being removed down to the 
roots, and a surface dressing of rich lumpy material given, supply¬ 
ing tepid water, keeping the atmosphere moist, and shading if neces¬ 
sary from bright sun. In the case of removing the plants all the old 
soil should also be taken out, and where bottom heat is obtained 
from fermenting materials only, a portion of that should be removed 
and a little fresh worked in, which will revive the bottom heat 
sufficient for the time of year. Plant on hillocks or ridges, and 
maintain a moist atmosphere. Pot off seedlings, and keep them 
sturdy by keeping them in a light position duly ventilated. Avoid 
overcrowding young plants, removing every alternate lateral whilst 
they are quite small, and pinch those retained for fruiting at the 
second joint if they do not show fruit, and stop the principal shoots 
when they have extended two-thirds their allotted space. Fertilise 
the female flowers as they expand, stopping one joint beyond the 
fruit. Keep a dry, warm, well-ventilated atmosphere during the 
setting period, also where the fruit is ripening. Plants with their 
fruit swelling should be well supplied with water at the roots, and 
syringed overhead if in frames or pits in the afternoon of fine days, 
earthing over the roots, and keeping the laterals closely pinched. If 
cracked fruits appear lessen the supply of moisture both to the roots 
and in the atmosphere, and cut the shoot about half through below 
the fruit. Look well after canker at the collar, and keep that part 
free of moisture and of leaves overhanging it, and rub quicklime well 
into the affected parts. 
Cucumbers .—Steady and constant perseverance with close and 
regular attention are essential to a healthy and fruitful condition of 
the plants. Examine the plants frequently, removing the old growths 
and encouraging young ones in their place, stopping one or twrn 
joints beyond the fruit, bearing in mind that nothing is gained by 
overcrowding or overcropping. Fumigate upon the first appearance 
of aphides, having the foliage dry, and repeat it on two or three 
consecutive evenings moderately. A few seeds sown now will afford 
plants for August which will give a supply of fruit in September, 
and for some time afterwards, even in dung-heated pits or frames, if 
linings are given in due time with protection over the lights when 
the nights become cold. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—The earliest-flowered Ixoras if now placed in a brisk heat 
will flower again, and be very useful for cutting during the autumn. 
If the pots are filled with roots afford liquid manure once a week, 
giving it clear and weak. I. coccinea and aurantiaca are the best 
varieties for this purpose, as they produce their flowers freely. For 
flowering in winter few plants equal the neglected Jasminum Sambac 
fiore-pleno, which should now be encouraged to make growth in a 
light position, so as to solidify the growth, keeping red spider under 
by frequent syringing. Stephanotis in young plants for next 
season’s flowering should have their shoots trained near the glass. 
Plants of Clerodendron Balfourianum that have flowered should, if 
young and wanted larger, be at once placed in heat, and be shifted 
if necessary into larger pots, employing good turfy yellow loam. 
