18 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 5,188?. 
finely divided. It is very elegant and Moss-like, quite -worth preserving, and 
we advise you to save the seed, try the variety on a larger scale next year, 
and send U3 another sample. The colour is too pale, but this is, perhaps, 
not a character of the variety, as the leaves sent may have lost their 
freshness. 
Thinning Asparagus ( Cottage Amateur). —We assume the seed was 
sown this year. We should dig up every alternate row next spring just when 
growth commences, and plant other beds if wanted. The plants in the rows 
may be a foot apart. A great number of useful heads may be had from 
plants in rows a foot apart, but to have large produce more space must be 
afforded. Rows 9 inches apart are too close. 
Broccoli and Potatoes {Idem). —Broccoli and plants of that nature 
planted between the rows of Potatoes now will do no harm to the crop, but 
the Potato haulm if it grows strong may interfere with the progress of the 
plants inserted. April is a good time for sowing seed of Thyme and Sage ; 
but as you failed to sow then you may sow now in drills in the open air, 
thinning out the plants when large enough to enable them to assume a 
sturdy habit of growth. 
White Stock (J . IF., Penshore). —We have received your note asking for 
“ an answer,” but as we did not receive your former letter, and you do not 
state in the present one your object in sending the Stock, we have really no 
question to which we can reply. If you will send another spike and enclose 
a letter with it expressing what you desire to know it shall have our best 
attention. 
Grapes Scalded (Tom Firth). —Slightly increase the night temperature 
with ventilation to prevent the condensation of moisture on the berries, 
giving more air very early and gradually in the morning. Keeping vineries 
closed too long then opening the lights too wide at once causes rapid 
evaporation, which is most injurious to Grapes. See “ Work for the Week,” 
page 547 of our last issue. 
Mismanagement of Plants {L. B .).—Undoubtedly you are right. The 
plants ought to have been moist, but not decidedly wet when repotted. No 
doubt they are seriously injured by neglecting to water them for two days, 
and in that state to place them in larger pots. Such a case of mismanage¬ 
ment as this has seldom been brought before us. You do not say whether 
you are under the foreman or over him. We presume the latter is the case, 
and you had better not follow his example. 
Mushroom Culture {Cantab). —There is no doubt plenty of soil in all 
the counties you mention well adapted for Mushrooms, and plenty in the 
same counties not of the best character for the crop; judgment must be 
exercised in this matter, but any sound naturally rich and rather heavy 
loam will answer. Not having had experience with the markets in either 
of the localities you name, we are not in a position to answer your question 
on that point. The rate of conveyance is not uniform ; it can only be 
obtained from the railway companies. Where there is competition it is 
low. It is not necessary to place the manure under cover before making 
the beds. We never recommend dealers. You had better first try their 
culture on a small scale where you are situated ; you will then be in a better 
position to select another locality if required. 
Cucumber Houses at Prescot {J. M. R.). —The span-roofed houses 
to which you allude vary in length from 150 to nearly 600 feet, and are 9 and 
10 feet wide. The height is 8 feet from the floor to the ridge, some a little 
more, but the majority less. The height to the furrow or eaves is 3 feet 
6 inches -to 4 feet, which will give a rafter of about 7 feet. The houses are 
built without side lights. The beds in which the Cucumbers are planted are 
supported by low inside walls. The houses have a very low appearance 
from the outside, most of them being sunk considerably. Some of them are 
built in blocks of four or five, and the furrows supported with pillars instead 
of a wall separating one house from another, but this is done for the sake of 
economy. The form of boiler in general use is an improved form of the 
saddle. The houses are of different sizes, aspects, and roof angles, so that it is 
not easy to be precise; but if you require further particulars relative to the 
structures we will endeavour to supply them, but we cannot recommend 
dealers. 
Manuring Potatoes {E. F. C. B.). —The dressing you propose—cwt- 
of nitrate of soda with 1 cwt. chlorate of potash—is good, and the best way 
of applying it is to sprinkle it between the rows before earthing up. In many 
districts, and probably in yours, an addition of superphosphate will do good. 
We have found a mixture of potassic chloride and guano very good. A 
mixture of nitrate of soda, half cwt., potassic chloride, one cwt., and thre e- 
quarters cwt. of superphosphate is as good as any. If the Potatoes are 
growing weakly you had better double the amount of nitrate, if moderately 
give a little more than you allow. Often, in the case of very strong-growing 
kinds, nitrates are not necessary, but in your climate they may be freely 
applied with nothing but benefit. Occasionally potash does no good, but 
generally it is the most important ingredient in Potato manure. If our 
hints help you we shall be glad to hear of the result. 
Tea Roses in December {T. B.).— The condition of the plants will 
suggest the treatment that should be accorded for inducing them to flower 
in the winter. Some plants cannot with any certainty be made to produce 
blooms freely at the time indicated. If strong plants growing freely in pots 
either in a light house or plunged in ashes outside are well supported, and 
the buds picked off until October, they will often produce a number of buds 
in November, and these in a moderate temperature and genial atmosphere 
will expand in December. But Roses to flower freely at the time indicated 
must be encouraged to make their growth early in the season in a very 
light house, then be ripened and rested in the summer, yet keeping the roots 
moist, pruned, and top-dressed in October, and placed in a moderately 
heated structure. Roses thus prepared and managed flower very freely in 
the winter, but can only be produced satisfactorily in very light houses that 
are well adapted for the growth and forcing of the plants ; and it would 
be little use attempting their culture with the object in question in an 
ordinary greenhouse, and in a mixed collection of plants. 
Zonal Pelargoniums for Winter {Idem). — Healthy plants now 
established in 3 or 4-inch pots, the leading growth stopped and just 
breaking, then placed in 5 and 6-inch pots in a good compost of loam, with 
a little decayed manure and a fifteenth part of bonemeal, will flower freely 
in the winter if well attended to in the summer and the flower buds are 
picked off as they appear. They may be stood in the open air as long as 
the weather is favourable, then placed under glass. They must not be 
starved with the object of ripening them, but must be encouraged to grow 
freely under the full influence of the sun. If dwarf plants are required the 
tips of the shoots may be nipped off in August. Young plants generously 
grown produce the finest trusses ; but old plants of such free varieties as 
Vesuvius cut down now, partially shaken out, and repotted when they have 
started into growth, then carefully tended and supported, will yield a 
profusion of moderate sized trusses during the winter months in a light 
house having a temperature of between 50° and 60°. They will not continue 
producing trusses freely in winter in a cold greenhouse. 
Epiphyllums {Idem). —Cuttings should be inserted in spring in light 
open soil in a brisk heat, keeping moist, but avoiding watering more than 
to keep the soil in a moderately moist state,' the cuttings being inserted 
around the sides of the pots, and when rooted potted-off singly in 3-inch 
pots. If the plants have filled the pots with roots, and have made, or are 
making, good top growth, shift into 4£-inch pots in May or June, and by 
the end of July or early in August the growth will be complete. They 
should then have a lessened supply of water, and the sprinkling overhead be 
discontinued, and have a light and airy position. A warm greenhouse or 
cool stove gives the most suitable temperature, but the plants may be grown 
very well by those having in addition to a greenhouse a vinery started in 
February or March, which from the moisture and heat will conduce to a 
vigorous growth, that being completed by the time the Grapes are ripening, 
when the plants may be removed to a light airy position in the greenhouse 
with water only to keep the growths fresh. The plants if kept in an inter¬ 
mediate house will commence flowering in November and continue until 
February. If they have a month to six weeks of this rest after flowering 
they subsequently grow much more vigorously. When growth commences 
the plants should be repotted, taking away as much of the old soil as 
possible without injuring the roots, and they may be returned to the same 
pots, adding fresh soil. The most suitable compost is light turfy loam, 
very fibrous, and chopped up moderately small, with an addition, in equal 
proportions, of dry cow dung, sharp or river sand, and crocks—or what is 
better, soft bricks broken into small pieces. The potting should be 
moderately firm and the drainage thorough. When in free growth and the 
roots active liquid manure may be given abundantly; a peck of cow dung 
to twenty gallons of water answers well, or one peck of sheej) droppings to 
thirty gallons of water, one peck of soot to thirty gallons, or one pound 
of guano to twenty gallons of water, avoiding making the soil sodden, 
and leaving off the applications of manure water when the growth is 
complete. Useful and attractive as are plants on their own roots, those 
grafted on Pereskia stock (Pereskia aculeata) are infinitely superior both in 
vigour of plants and their ornamental character. If you require further 
details of culture you will find them in No. 780 of this Journal, which can 
be had if you send 3 %d. in stamps to the publisher, quoting the number we 
have given. 
Larch Trees Diseased {John IF. Kitson). —We print your letter, as it 
refers to a subject of great importance, and as our reply will then be better 
understood. “ Will you kindly give me any information you can as to a 
disease at present existing in Larch trees in Dartmoor at an elevation of 
1000 feet ? Soil rocky, with rotten granite sand. Fine young plantations of 
trees, with a growth of from 4 feet high, are attacked. They appear to die • 
back with a red gummy sap exuding from the joints, giving them a canker¬ 
ous look. Can the cause be frost or the work of an insect ? and is it possible 
to apply a remedy ?” The injury is the result of frost on trees which have 
been constitutionally enfeebled by being raised from seed produced in low- 
lying positions. The Larch is a mountainous tree, and the seed should always 
be obtained from specimens on high elevations. It thrives at an altitude of 
1800 feet, and in its native habitats lives for 150 to 200 years; but trees 
grown in the lowlands speedily decay, and if seed is raised from these low¬ 
land trees and the produce planted in a high exposed position disease is 
almost sure to overtake them. Larches are no doubt attacked by insects, but 
immeasurably greater injury is the result of want of care in selecting the 
seed. The condition of the trees in question is not the result of frost during- 
the past winter ; it may have been done two or three years ago, and is only 
declaring itself now. There is no remedy, and the only method we can sug¬ 
gest of having healthy trees is to insist on them being raised from seed that 
has ripened on trees in a mountainous district. If this principle of procur¬ 
ing seed had been adhered to we are convinced there would not be half the 
Larch disease in the country that exists now. 
Mushroom Spores and Spawn Bricks {A. IF.).—It has been held by 
many investigators that it is necessary for the spores to pass through the 
system of an animal to acquire the power of germinating, and we believe the 
opinion is still entertained by some botanists. We have, however, heard of 
experiments by which it was, we understand, proved that the spores could; 
germinate when taken direct from the Mushroom and placed in a suitable 
medium and temperature, but we cannot refer you to any published record 
of these results. The bricks are composed of horse and cow manure and 
sound loam, mixed, kneaded, and pressed into moulds. When the bricks are 
sufficiently dry pieces of spawn are inserted in them, and they are then kept 
warm by being covered with fermenting manure until the mycelium spreads, 
through the mass. The covering is then gradually removed, the bricks dried 
and kept in a cool dry place, and it is not necessary to cover them with any¬ 
thing. It is almost impossible to teach a person how to make these bricks 
satisfactorily who has no knowledge of the work. He must see the process 
throughout, and even then he may fail. It is much better for amateurs to 
purchase spawn than to lose time in attempting to make it. 
Cucumbers Gumming {G. Cole). —The soil is probably too rich, and 
may be too wet, especially on the surface. Examine it by digging to the 
bottom of the bed, and if it is moist there lessen the water supply ; if dry 
make some holes in the bed and pour water in. It is not possible to say 
how much water the plants should have, that depends wholly on the size 
and the conditions under which they are grown. We can only say that 
plants that show a tendency to gum should have no more water than will 
prevent flagging; and if the gumming be excessive shading must be resorted 
