July 12, 1883. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
23 
it may to the majority of what we may call loam plants. Indeed, 
although no worms exist, it may often prove beneficial to such, for it 
will remove acidity in the soil—a thing not unknown where large 
specimens are kept many years in the same soil. In some cases, 
where watering is not properly done, the soil even in small pots is 
sour more or less ; and though a renewal of the soil is always the 
best cure, the application of lime water will remove the sourness and 
also add plant food to the soil. 
Lime water is made by dissolving newly slaked lime in water. 
The idea some people have of the possibility of “ making it strong ” 
is wholly erroneous. Water can only take up in solution one part of 
lime to 732 of water. Weaker it may be, but not stronger. When 
much is wanted for applying to lawns, greens, &c., for the purpose of 
removing worms, it is not necessary to be particular whether the 
mixture is allowed to stand till clear, as the lime in suspension in the 
water will do good and not harm. When it is for anything more 
particular the water had better be skimmed of oily matter, allowed to 
stand till clear, and then decanted by means of a pipe bent to act as 
a syphon. If to be kept in jars or bottles it must be securely corked 
or the air will speedily precipitate the lime, when it will not be lime 
water, but a mixture of water and the mild carbonate. Hot lime 
made into whitewash is considered good for killing insects when 
applied to back walls of houses, brick pits, &c. ; it certainly is 
effective in destroying moss or lichen on trees or walls. It may be 
applied for this purpose dry. Nothing will prove more effective for 
removing moss on lawns, and for this purpose it may be liberally 
applied in winter. On light soils such applications often cause a 
thick turf of white Clover to appear. 
Cabbages of all kinds are greatly benefited by applications of lime. 
On the Continent, in this country, and in America it has been found 
to be almost a specific against Clubroot, and it is valuable for 
preventing finger-and-toe among Turnips. When liming is done on 
a small scale every year (the best plan), it should always be given to 
the land intended for Cabbages, Turnips, &c. The wild Cabbage 
grows best among shell sand by the seashore, and its ash yields 
20 per cent, of pure lime (calcic oxide). The Vine has been rightly 
named a potash plant, but the ash of its wood contains from 30 to 
45 per cent, of lime, and that of its fruit close on 20 ; and we all 
know how experienced gardeners prefer a calcareous soil or make one 
for their Vine borders. In well-manured soils from which the 
carbonic dioxide has dissolved and the rain washed out the lime, 
Peaches and Plums fail to set. The cure is new soil. A cheaper 
by far, and a thoroughly effective one, would often be a simple 
application of lime.— Single-handed. 
ENDIVE CULTURE. 
As there are so many promising crops of Endive annually spoiled 
through being sown too early or too late a few brief notes on the 
subject now may be helpful. Endive is truly a winter salad plant, 
and although it is sometimes grown for summer use it is not worth 
cultivating to come in before October or November. We have had 
well-blanched heads ready to cut in August and September, but these 
were only for show, and where we secured half a dozen or so that 
were good, dozens in the same batch “ bolted." This always happens 
with early-sown crops, hence our reason for objecting to them. 
Another reason is that when abundance of the best summer Lettuce 
can be had Endive is not valued as a rule, but in winter if well 
grown it may be said to bo more valuable than Lettuce. 
To secure a continuous supply from October until spring we would 
sow three times. First, at once ; second, on or about July 20th, and 
again about the same time in August. The seed may be sown thinly 
broadcast or in drills. In any case do not cover it more than 1 inch 
deep, and let the soil be rich and not too dry or light. A very small 
piece will produce a great number of plants, and seed-sowing should 
be curtailed accordingly. When once the plants are seen above 
ground they will make rapid progress, and about three.weeks after 
sowing will be ready for transplanting. Ground recently cleared of 
Potatoes, Peas, or Spinach is suitable. It is hoed and raked over, and 
then planted. The plants are dibbled in 1 foot apart each way, and 
the hoe is run between them to keep the surface of the ground free 
from weeds. Where varieties are grown which require tying up to 
blanch this is done when they have become good large tufts of 
luxuriant leaves, and a fortnight or three weeks before they are 
wanted for use. Subsequent sowings are all treated in the same way, 
and we never have any lack of the most useful Endive through the 
winter months.—A Kitchen Gardener. 
Ccelogyne cristata. —Mr. Grindrod has read my last note (page 531) 
like the first—rather hurriedly, or he would not have come to the con¬ 
clusion he has. He will find that I do not use the word “ impossible,” 
but it is “ possible.” He appears to consider that cutting out useless 
crowded pseudo-bulbs from specimen plants altogether wrong ; but plants 
may be covered with growths, and still would be better if the crowded 
pseudo-bulbs were removed. Cutting out is done to give the principal 
pseudo-bulbs more room to develope, consequently finer flower spikes 
are obtained than from plants under the crowded system.—A. Young. 
SHOW AND DECORATIVE PELARGONIUMS. 
The present month being a good time to raise a supply for 
next year a few hints may be useful to beginners. I have learnt 
from experience that young plants every year give me better 
returns than old cut-backs, and occupy less space through the 
winter months when house room is scarce. 
Propagation .—The cuttings should be taken from a clean 
healthy stock free from green fly. Strong young side growths 
are the best, and should be dibbled singly in small 60-size pots, 
the compost consisting of loam and leaf soil, with a good dash 
of silver sand, the soil to be made firm about each cutting. The 
pots may be arranged on ashes in a cold frame and the lights 
kept close, shading from bright sunshine. One good watering 
should be given to settle the soil. A slight damping after a hot 
day will be all that is required till roots are formed, after which 
they will require more air and water. 
Potting .—Before the plants become root-bound transfer them 
into large 60-size pots, drainage being provided, on which some 
of the roughest of the compost should be placed. When the 
plants are sufficiently advanced shift them into 48-size pots, or, 
if very large specimens are required, another potting must be 
given into 32’s, though I find with good attention plants in 48’s 
are large enough for all practical purposes, either for the con¬ 
servatory or for supplying cut flowers. For the final shift I 
prefer oyster shells as drainage, and a compost Consisting of 
three parts strong loam to one of well-decomposed hotbed ma¬ 
nure that has been kept dry and is free from worms, with suffi¬ 
cient sand to cause the water to pass freely through. Pot firmly, 
and allow sufficient room for watering. 
Stopping .—The point of the shoot should be nipped out 
immediately roots are formed and growth has commenced, 
causing them to break close to the soil. Another stopping 
should be made when the young growths have formed three or 
four leaves. Some varieties will require stopping once more 
when grown strongly. I am quite content with from four to six 
growths, as these growths will throw side shoots and form a 
good head. I have some now from cuttings last summer 18 inches 
through in 48-pois; have been flowering since the middle of 
May, and will continue for some time, though the trusses are 
not so strong as at first. All flowers have been removed once a 
week. 
Ventilating .—When roots are formed too much air cannot be 
given. The lights may be taken off to allow them the benefit of 
a warm shower or evening’s dews. Drenching rains should be 
avoided. Keep them in cold frames while safe from frost, when 
no longer safe remove them to greenhouse or where space can 
be found. I winter mine on a suspended shelf near the glass in 
a span-roof house, where they get plenty of air. Being- young 
plants they take up but little room. 
Watering .—To grow Pelargoniums to. perfection watering 
should be attended to carefully through all stages of their 
growth, watering just when the soil becomes dry and before the 
leaves flag. When the flower buds appear by no means allow 
them to flag, but supply water more copiously, as the pots being 
full of roots the soil will not become sour. Liquid manure 
should not be applied till they are well established in their 
flowering pots, when a little weak soot water may be given. 
When the flower bud3 appear it may be increased in strength 
and given every third watering, but not in excess, or they may 
cast their foliage and the trusses will be weak. The point to be 
arrived at is strong short-jointed growth with plenty of healthy 
foliage. 1 also use liquid manure from the cow yard. 
The varieties I grow are Dr. Masters, Sultana, Captain Raikes, 
Digby Grand, Madame de Clercy, Triomphe de St. Mande, Clari- 
bel, Beauty of Oxton, John Bright, Prince of Wales, Prince of 
Pelargoniums, Madame Thibaut, Sappho, Hesperus, Mons. 
Bollard, Lucie Lemoine, Madame Charles Koing, the last named 
being the best white I know; Duchess of Bedford, and Bridal 
Bouquet. All the above varieties are good and worthy of 
good cultivation. Besides being so pleasing to the eye they are 
useful for cutting, as they travel so well after being cut and 
gummed.—A. J. Sanders. 
VENTILATION. 
I thought to have something more to say on this subject; but Mr. 
Taylor in his recent article on page 510, last volume, has so completely 
taken the wind out of my sails and expressed my ideas on the matter so 
