July 12, 1888.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
87 
Fasciated Pine Apple. —Mr. Nicholas, gardener to Earl Fortescue, sent a 
curious specimen of fasciation. The Pine Apple weighed lbs., and had 
about thirty small crowns at the summit. 
Proliferous Double Begonias. —Mr. Laing exhibited several specimens of 
scarlet Begonias in a more or less proliferous state. 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Young Trees — Training .—The midsummer growth is now advancing 
with even greater vigour than that of spring. No cold north-east winds 
now prevail. Clean, healthy, and robust as this second growth is, there¬ 
fore, let us see that it is turned to best account by training it to the re¬ 
quired form, and nipping it wherever it is necessary to induce lateral 
growth for the formation of spurs or to obtain enough shoots to fill 
vacancies. Rigid training is not often desirable ; rather aim to secure 
clean straight growth with all the leading shoots of branch or stem 
pointing upwards, or at a sufficiently acute angle to maintain an equal 
freedom of growth in every part of the tree, and gradually impart the 
required form as the growth gains age and strength. Tie loosely but 
securely ; never suffer swelling growth to be string-bound ; never suffer 
the stem to rock in the soil, nor branches to chafe against supports 
and make unsightly bark wounds. All these apparent trifles tell in 
the end, and close attention to them is absolutely necessary in the 
rearing and development of a handsome healthy fruit tree. 
Watering .—We have reason to fear that the object of watering fruit 
trees is not generally understood, Not merely to promote growth and aid 
the swelling fruit is it necessary, but also to assist the entire economy of 
the tree, the formation and perfect development of fruit buds, the free 
and regular action of the sap, the full expansion of blossom, the setting of 
fruit, and, above all, the prompt growth of the fruit as soon as it is set. 
Were this as well done as it ought to be we should no longer hear of pre¬ 
mature fruit-shedding. Soil differs greatly, a cool alluvial deposit needs 
far less water than a thin warm sandy soil. Let, then, the fruit-grower 
become thoroughly acquainted with the nature and condition of the 
peculiar soil he has to treat, and adopt his measures accordingly. 
Mulching .—As supplementary to watering the importance of mulch¬ 
ing can hardly be overrated. It checks evaporation, keeps the soil moist 
in the most parching weather, and enables the tree to derive full benefit 
from watering. It promotes a free quick root-action, helps to insure 
abundant and regular crops of fruit, and exercises a beneficent action 
upon the general health of the trees. Our favourite mulching is the 
mixture of half-decayed leaves and stable dung which an old hotbed 
affords. We regularly apply this every year, not only to fruit trees but 
also to Raspberries and all bush fruit. The mention of this reminds us 
that another important effect of mulching is to attract the roots to the 
surface and to afford a supply of rich food, which the rootlets may now 
be seen laying hold of in every direction. 
Strawberries—Malang the Beds .—Well drain the soil, trench and 
thoroughly enrich it with manure. If it be at all of a close adhesive 
nature without many stones, and is liable to settle into an inert hard 
mass, cover the surface with 6 inches of coal ashes, or even more if you 
can procure them, before trenching, so as to mix the ashes with the soil 
as you proceed, and thus render it sufficiently porous to allow surface 
water to pass freely through it to the drains. 
Planting .—The runners layered as was explained a fortnight ago are 
rooting freely, and will soon be ready for planting. Not a day should 
be then lost, because early planting in July insures a moderate crop of 
fine and early fruit next year. Plant 1 foot apart every way in view of 
securing a double quantity of fruit next year, and with the intention of 
removing each alternate row immediately after fruiting is over next 
year, so as to leave the permanent rows 2 feet apart. In districts where 
the rainfall is heavy it is desirable to go even further and remove every 
alternate plant in the permanent rows so that the plants may in the 
second year be 2 feet apart every way, and thus not only be more open 
to light and air on all sides, but that the fruit may all be raised from 
contact with soil, grass, or straw, and thus be kept from premature decay. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cypripedium insigne .—Plants started in a little heat early in the 
year to make their growth should now be placed in a cool house. A 
cool vinery is a good place for them if the roof is not too densely covered 
with foliage. They should remain under cool treatment until their 
flower sheaths are visible, when a little heat is again beneficial. An 
abundant supply of water is necessary. If root-bound weak stimulants 
given every alternate watering are beneficial. 
Cyperus laxus variegatus .—Where dwarf plants in 2-inch pots are 
used for furnishing purposes this is a capital plant. Its striped varie¬ 
gated grass-like foliage renders it very attractive when associated with 
Ferns and other dwarf plants. It is easy and readily propagated by 
taking off the creeping side shoots, which are produced plentifully from 
strong plants, and which form roots from every joint. No handlights or 
frame are necessary in which to root the cuttings after insertion, as they 
WOKK.foii.the WE EK.. 
do equally well in any warm shaded place. Do not grow this plant in 
too much heat, or its foliage assumes a greenish hue and much of the 
plant’s beauty is gone. 
Fittonias .—Few plants are more useful for furnishing purposes than 
these, and they are easily propagated and grown, and very few dwarf 
plants where foliage is appreciated can be used to greater advantage. 
Where baskets, oval or other shaped, have to be filled with plants, 
Fittonias amongst Lycopodium and small Ferns for an edging have a 
charming effect. They can be established in small pots, pans, or boxes, 
and lifted out when required. When grown in the latter a number 
should be lifted out ten days or a fortnight before they are required for 
use, and a little moss tied round each ball of soil, so as to allow them 
time to become established in it, which answers equally as well as grow¬ 
ing them in pots. 
Imantophyllum miniatum .—This and its varieties are amongst the 
most serviceable plants for forcing during winter and spring. Large 
plants are noble when profusely flowered, but for decoration those in 
G and 7-inch pots are the most useful. Those required for early flowering 
and have been assisted by heat to make their growth must now be 
placed under cool treatment; the greenhouse or a cool frame is the place 
for them, the latter being preferable, as the lights could be thrown off 
frequently. When they remain in heat after their growth is completed 
they are very liable to be started, and in consequence push up their 
flowers. Give abundance of water, or the foliage will soon present a 
sickly appearance, and occasionally clear soot water, which quickly 
imparts a fine dark hue to their foliage. 
Roses .—Hybrid Perpetuals that have been used for forcing purposes, 
and have been well hardened and stood outside after the completion of 
their growth, should have their pots plunged in a sunny position. Feed¬ 
ing should not be discontinued now the plants have done blooming, but 
should be persisted in, and the benefit of this practice will be seen next 
forcing season in the size and quality of their blooms. The foliage must 
be kept in a healthy condition by frequent syringing, which will, if 
thoroughly done, keep them free from red spider. If mildew attacks 
them syringe at once with softsoap water mixed as previously advised, 
and in which a little sulphur has been mixed. 
Tea varieties that are planted out under glass require much attention 
at this season of the year to keep them free from spider. Thorough 
syringing twice daily during fine weather with water in which softsoap 
has been mixed is the only means of keeping them clean. Abundance 
of water will also be needed at their roots, or else they will soon become 
a prey to mildew. Those required for flowering during the winter and 
spring should have all flower buds removed as they appear from this 
date, and air should be admitted abundantly day and night. Those in 
pots required for flowering in the autumn should be stood outside, and 
if the plants are cramped in their pots for root room place them into a 
larger size without delay. They will become thoroughly established in 
these, and if flower buds are removed as they appear, and the wants of 
these plants properly attended to, some valuable flowers will be the 
result after those in beds and borders are cut off by frost. 
Young plants from cuttings rooted in spring should now be in 6-inch 
pots, and be grown on under glass. Remove flower buds as soon as they ' 
can be seen, and strong shoots that spring from the base should be 
pinched when they are G or 7 inches high. This will be the means of 
inducing others to spring from the base, or, failing this, the shoots 
operated upon will branch freely, and compact little bushes that will 
flower profusely in autumn and winter will be secured. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Wallflowers and Sweet Williams .—Those sown for'early blooming 
next spring are now in rough leaf, and if under glass should be 
gradually exposed and hardened off preparatory to pricking out. Sow 
more seed for later blooming, and in boxes recently used for the 
bedding plants in preference to risking the seeds in an open border. 
Sow thinly, protect from heavy rains, and shade from bright sunshine. 
This, in addition to the ordinary bedding Wallflowers, also applies to 
the large-flowering double German Wallflowers. Cuttings of double 
Wallflowers may be struck under handlights or a north wall, as advised 
for Pinks, and cuttings of Alyssum saxatile will root similarly to the 
Wallflowers. 
Pelargoniums and other Bedding Plan ts .—The recent showery weather 
has been of service in establishing the late-planted batches of these, and 
in the case of Pelargoniums at least no further waterings will be required 
this season. If not already done the surface of all the beds should be 
well stirred with a small flat hoe and then be levelled down with a rake. 
This will destroy all the young weeds, and prevent cracking and undue 
evaporation of the moisture. A mulching of cocoa-nut fibre refuse or 
of grass from the mowing machine will also prove beneficial should we 
experience much hot weather. Pelargoniums where planted in masses 
or where very thin will cover the ground more evenly, and are also more 
effective when pegged down. Strong pegs may be cut from faggot wood 
or from the common • Bracken. We save all the winter thinnings of 
young growth from standard and large bush-trained Apple trees, and 
these are bent round the growths of plants to be trained, and the two 
ends thrust into the ground. Verbenas, Gazanias, Ivyleaf Pelargoniums, 
Alyssum, Iresines, and Heliotropes where disposed in the front rows, 
Gnaphalium, Phlox Drummondii, Petunias, and Cineraria maritima, 
should all be regulated and pegged down till they have covered their 
allotted spaces. Calceolarias if not planted uprightly can also be pegged 
down, but in every case everything depends upon the positions assigned 
to each. The bloom should be kept pinched off weakly plants of all 
